Spanish Salt Cod (Bacalao): Complete Guide for Expats

This guide is written specifically for expats living in Spain and international visitors who want to understand bacalao — not just as a menu item, but as one of the most important ingredients in Spanish culinary culture. At Bacalalo, in Barcelona's Mercat del Ninot since 1990, we have been helping locals and visitors alike discover the world of Spanish salt cod.

What is Bacalao?

Bacalao is the Spanish word for cod — specifically the Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua) — but in everyday usage it almost always refers to salt-cured cod: bacalao salado (salted cod). Fresh cod (bacalao fresco) exists but is much less common on Spanish tables.

The salt-curing process works like this:

• Fresh Atlantic cod is caught in the cold waters of the North Atlantic (Norway, Iceland, Canada, Faroe Islands)
• The fish is cleaned, opened flat, and packed in large quantities of coarse salt
• It is left to cure for weeks to months
• The salt draws out moisture, preserving the fish and dramatically changing its flavor and texture

The result is a product completely different from fresh cod: more complex in flavor, with a characteristic texture that breaks into firm, layered flakes when cooked, and a gelatinous quality that makes it uniquely suited to certain classic preparations.

Why Does Spain Love Salt Cod So Much?

The relationship between Spain and bacalao goes back centuries. Before refrigeration, preserving food was literally a matter of survival. Salt cod could be transported from the North Atlantic fishing grounds all the way to the Mediterranean without spoiling — an extraordinary feat for the time.

Spanish sailors, traders, and merchants built entire commerce routes around bacalao. It became the protein of the poor (because dried cod was cheap and lasted forever), but also the protein of Lent (because the Catholic Church prohibited meat on Fridays and during Holy Week, but fish was allowed). Over generations, Spanish cooks turned what was initially a survival food into one of their greatest culinary achievements.

Today, bacalao is no longer a food of scarcity. Premium salt cod from Iceland or Norway can be genuinely expensive. But the cultural attachment remains: bacalao is comfort food, family food, the food of Holy Week, the food that connects Spaniards to their history.

How to Buy Salt Cod in Spain: A Practical Guide

This is where many expats get confused. Walking into a Spanish fish market or supermarket to buy bacalao can be bewildering if you don't know what you're looking at.

The Different Forms of Salt Cod You Will Encounter

Bacalada entera (whole dried cod) The most traditional format: the whole fish, opened flat, dried and salted. It looks like a flat, stiff board of fish. This is what you will see hanging in traditional Spanish delicatessens. It needs to be soaked for 48-72 hours before cooking.

Lomos de bacalao salado (salted cod loins) Cut from the thickest, meatiest central section of the fish. The premium cut. No major bones. Needs 36-48 hours of soaking before cooking.

Migas de bacalao (salt cod pieces/flakes) Irregular pieces and scraps from the trimming of loins. The most economical format. Perfect for dishes where appearance doesn't matter (croquettes, fritters, pasta, omelettes). Needs only 8-12 hours of soaking.

Bacalao desalado (pre-soaked cod) Already soaked and ready to cook. Sold refrigerated with a short shelf life. The most convenient option if you want to cook today or tomorrow without planning ahead.

Bacalao al punto de sal (lightly salted cod) A halfway product: some salt has been removed industrially but it is not fully desalted. Sold in vacuum packs in supermarkets. Needs a brief rinse or short soak before cooking.

Where to Buy Good Salt Cod

Mercados municipales (municipal markets): The best option for quality. Every Spanish city has at least one public market with fishmongers who specialize in bacalao. You can see the product, smell it, and ask the fishmonger for advice. In Barcelona, the Mercat del Ninot, Boqueria, and Santa Caterina are excellent options.

Specialized bacalao shops: Some cities, especially in Catalonia and the Basque Country, have shops dedicated entirely to bacalao and preserved fish. These offer the widest range and highest quality.

Large supermarkets: Carrefour, El Corte Inglés, Mercadona. Quality is variable. Fine for everyday cooking, but the selection of premium cuts is limited.

Online: If you live outside a major city, or want access to premium quality not available locally, buying salt cod online is a very good option. Bacalalo ships across Spain with quality guarantees and proper cold chain for desalted products.

How to Soak and Prepare Salt Cod: Step by Step

The most important thing to know about salt cod is that it must be soaked (desalted) before cooking. You cannot cook it as-is — it will be inedibly salty.

The Desalting Process

• A container large enough to submerge the cod completely
• Cold water (tap or refrigerator water)
• Refrigerator space for the duration

The basic process: Place the salt cod skin-side up in the container. Cover completely with cold water. Refrigerate. Change the water every 6-8 hours (this is essential — the water gets saturated with salt and stops working if you don't change it).

How long depends on thickness:

• Thin pieces (ventresca, tail): 12-18 hours, 2-3 water changes
• Medium loins (2-3 cm thick): 24-36 hours, 3-4 water changes
• Thick loins (more than 3 cm): 36-48 hours, 4-5 water changes
• Whole bacalada: 48-72 hours, 5-6 water changes

• Always soak in the refrigerator. Never at room temperature. Warm water causes the protein to deteriorate and the fish may begin to ferment.
• Always change the water completely — do not just add more water on top.
• Taste a small raw piece from the thickest part to check when it's ready. It should be pleasantly salty but not overwhelmingly so.

The Skin and Bones

Salt cod loins from good retailers will have the skin on one side and very few bones (the small pin bones may remain). You can cook with the skin on (it adds gelatin and texture) or remove it before cooking — both are fine depending on the recipe. If you need to remove bones, use tweezers after the soaking is complete.

The Most Important Bacalao Recipes Every Expat Should Know

Esqueixada (Catalan Salt Cod Salad)

The simplest and most refreshing preparation. No cooking required.

• 400 g salt cod, desalted, thin cuts preferred
• 3 ripe tomatoes
• 1 spring onion or sweet onion
• Black olives
• Good olive oil, salt, pepper

Method: Shred the desalted cod with your hands into thin strands — this is called "esqueixar" in Catalan. Do not cut with a knife. Mix with diced tomatoes, thinly sliced onion, and olives. Dress with olive oil and a little salt (be careful — the cod retains some salt). Chill 15 minutes before serving.

This is the Catalan answer to ceviche: fresh, vibrant, and completely dependent on the quality of the cod.

Bacallà al Pil-Pil (Basque Salt Cod in Emulsified Oil)

The most technically demanding but most impressive preparation. The natural gelatin of the cod emulsifies with olive oil to create a creamy, rich sauce — with no cream or starch of any kind.

• 600 g thick salt cod loins, desalted
• 300 ml mild olive oil (not strongly flavored)
• 4-6 garlic cloves, sliced
• 1 dried chili (optional)

Method: Heat oil very gently (it should tremble, not boil). Add garlic and chili. When garlic turns golden, remove. Add cod loins skin-side up. Cook at very low heat for 10-12 minutes. Remove cod and let oil cool to approximately 60-70°C. Return cod and begin moving the pan in slow circular motions — this is the technique that creates the pil-pil emulsion. Continue for 10-15 minutes until the sauce is white, creamy, and thick.

The key is patience and low heat. High heat destroys the gelatin and prevents emulsification.

Bacalao con Tomate (Salt Cod in Tomato Sauce)

The most accessible bacalao recipe and the most universally loved across all Spanish regions.

• 500 g salt cod loins or pieces, desalted
• 400 g crushed tomatoes (or fresh tomatoes, peeled)
• 1 onion, 3 garlic cloves, 1 green pepper
• Olive oil, paprika, bay leaf, parsley

Method: Make a sofrito: fry onion, garlic, and pepper in olive oil until soft (10 minutes). Add crushed tomatoes and paprika. Cook the sauce until thick (15 minutes). Add the cod pieces, cover and cook gently for 10-12 minutes. Add fresh parsley. Serve with good bread.

Bacalao al Horno con Patatas (Salt Cod Baked with Potatoes)

Simple, complete, and deeply satisfying. A whole meal in one pan.

• 600 g thick salt cod loins, desalted
• 4 medium potatoes
• 1 onion, 3 garlic cloves
• Sweet paprika, olive oil, parsley

Method: Slice potatoes 1 cm thick. Arrange in a baking dish with sliced onion, drizzle with olive oil and salt. Bake at 180°C for 20 minutes. Place cod loins on top of the potatoes, add sliced garlic, paprika, and another drizzle of olive oil. Bake 12-15 more minutes until the cod is cooked through. Serve with parsley.

Bacalao and Holy Week: The Seasonal Surge

If you are in Spain during Semana Santa (the week before Easter), you will notice that bacalao is everywhere. Supermarkets dedicate entire sections to it. Restaurants offer bacalao specials. Families buy it in quantities.

This is not incidental. The Catholic tradition of abstaining from meat on Fridays during Lent (and particularly during Holy Week) made bacalao the protein of the season for centuries. Even as religious observance has declined among younger Spaniards, the culinary tradition persists.

• Buy your bacalao at least 1-2 weeks before Holy Week if possible. Prices rise and stock runs low as demand peaks.
• If you live outside a major city, online ordering is the safest way to guarantee supply.
• The traditional Holy Week dishes in most Spanish regions: potaje de vigilia (chickpea, spinach and cod stew), bacalao con tomate, buñuelos de bacalao (cod fritters).

Where to Buy Bacalao Near Me: Options by City

Barcelona

Madrid

Valencia

Bilbao and the Basque Country

Everywhere Else

Tips for Expats: Common Mistakes to Avoid

Mistake 1: Not buying enough lead time If you need salt cod for a specific date (dinner party, Holy Week), buy it 2-3 days in advance and plan for the soaking time. Desalting takes 24-48 hours.

Mistake 2: Soaking at room temperature This is the most dangerous error. Always soak in the refrigerator. Room temperature soaking can cause fermentation and bacterial growth, especially in summer.

Mistake 3: Buying pre-soaked cod and not cooking it the same day Desalted bacalao lasts only 48 hours in the refrigerator. If you buy it already desalted from the fishmonger or supermarket, cook it within 24-48 hours.

Mistake 4: Confusing bacalao with other species In the market, you may see similar-looking products labeled "bacalao" that are actually pollack (abadejo), hake (merluza), or other species. True bacalao is Gadus morhua. The flavor and behavior in cooking are different. Always check the species on the label.

Mistake 5: Expecting it to taste like fresh fish Salt-cured bacalao is a completely different product from fresh cod. If you try it expecting delicate fresh fish flavor, you may be surprised by the intensity. Its depth, its saltiness (even after soaking), its firm-flaky texture: these are features, not bugs.

Frequently Asked Questions

What does bacalao taste like? Good desalted bacalao has an intense, complex, savory (umami) flavor with a briny, oceanic character. The texture is firm but breaks into beautiful flakes when cooked. It is much more flavorful than fresh white fish. The salt-curing process is a genuine flavor transformation, not just preservation.

Is bacalao healthy? Yes. Cod is a lean white fish, high in protein and low in fat. It provides omega-3 fatty acids, vitamin B12, phosphorus, and selenium. The salt content is reduced significantly through soaking before cooking, though bacalao dishes will always contain more sodium than fresh fish dishes.

Can I eat bacalao raw (sushi-style)? Technically, very fresh bacalao desalado could be eaten raw if it came from a reliable source. However, this is not a traditional Spanish practice. The salt curing process does not make it safe for raw consumption by itself (it needs to meet regulatory standards for parasites). Stick to cooking it.

Where can I buy bacalao in English-speaking countries? If you are visiting Spain and want to bring bacalao home, check the regulations for bringing food products into your country. Salt cod (dried and cured) is generally allowed in the EU, US (if declared), and other countries. It can also be ordered online from specialized Spanish food retailers who ship internationally.

What is the difference between bacalao and baccalà? The same product, different language. Baccalà is Italian, bacalao is Spanish (and Portuguese, slightly different spelling: bacalhau). The traditional preparation methods vary by country, but the ingredient is the same: salt-cured Atlantic cod.

Is bacalao expensive? It depends on the quality. Cheap bacalao (migas, industrial quality) can be 8-12 €/kg. Premium loins (Icelandic or Norwegian, hand-selected) can reach 25-40 €/kg. For special dishes, the premium quality is worth it. For everyday cooking (croquettes, omelettes), the economical formats work perfectly.

Do I need special equipment to make pil-pil? Not really. The traditional vessel is a clay pot (cazuela de barro), which retains heat evenly and helps the gelatin emulsify properly. You can use a heavy-bottomed pan but the result may be slightly different. The most important tool is patience.

Can I order bacalao online and receive it across Spain? Yes. Bacalalo ships across mainland Spain and the Balearic Islands. Orders typically arrive within 24-48 hours. Salt cod ships without refrigeration; desalted cod ships with ice packs and insulated packaging.

Conclusion

Salt cod — bacalao — is one of Spain's most important culinary contributions to the world. From the elegant pil-pil of the Basque Country to the humble esqueixada of Catalonia, from the Semana Santa potajes of Andalusia to the bacalao amb mongetes of inland Catalonia, this one ingredient appears in hundreds of dishes across every Spanish region.

Understanding how to buy it, soak it, and cook it opens up an enormous part of Spanish home cooking. And once you have made your first proper pil-pil or your first esqueixada with good salt cod, you will understand why Spaniards have been cooking with this ingredient for over five centuries.

Bacalalo has been at the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona since 1990. We welcome visitors, expats, and enthusiasts of all backgrounds. Visit us in person or shop online at bacalalo.com — we ship quality salt cod and premium Spanish conservas across all of Spain.