Portuguese Cod vs Icelandic Cod: Tradition vs

The Great Paradox of Portuguese Cod

Portugal is, without a doubt, the land of cod. Portuguese people consume over 70,000 tons of cod per year, which amounts to about 7 kg per capita, the highest figure in the world. Bacalhau is the national dish, the Christmas ingredient, the basis of over 1,000 documented recipes. They say there's a cod recipe for every day of the year, with plenty to spare.

But here comes the paradox: Portugal doesn't fish cod. Or, to be more precise, it fishes such small quantities that they are irrelevant compared to its consumption. Gadus morhua does not live in Portuguese waters: it is a cold-water fish from the North Atlantic, inhabiting areas between Norway, Iceland, Greenland, Canada, and Russia.

So, what exactly is "Portuguese cod"? It is cod from other origins, mainly Norwegian and Icelandic, which Portugal imports, processes, and transforms with its own tradition of salting and curing. It is a product of craftsmanship and culture, not of geographical origin.

Portugal Doesn't Fish Cod (or hardly at all)

Historically, Portugal was indeed a major cod fishing power. Since the 15th century, Portuguese fishermen crossed the Atlantic to the Grand Banks of Newfoundland and Greenland to fish for cod. The famous "Fiel Amigo", the Portuguese cod fleet, operated for centuries and was one of Europe's most epic maritime ventures.

But overfishing of the Newfoundland banks in the 20th century led to the collapse of the cod stock in 1992, when Canada declared a total moratorium. Portugal lost its historical fishing grounds, and its cod fleet drastically shrank.

Today, Portuguese cod fishing is largely symbolic. Some boats still operate in Svalbard waters (Norwegian archipelago) and in the NAFO zone (Northwest Atlantic), but catches represent a minimal fraction of national consumption. The bulk of cod consumed in Portugal comes from Norway and Iceland through imports.

According to industry data, Norway and Iceland jointly supply more than 85% of the salted cod consumed in Portugal. The rest comes from Russia, the Faroe Islands, and, in small quantities, from the Portuguese fleet itself.

Where Does Portugal's Cod Come From?

The commercial flow of cod to Portugal works like this:

1. Fishing: Cod is caught in the waters of Norway, Iceland, or other North Atlantic countries.
2. Initial Processing: In some cases, the cod is partially salted and dried at its origin (Norway or Iceland).
3. Importation: Portugal imports the salted cod whole or in large pieces.
4. Final Processing: Portuguese companies complete the curing, cut, grade, and package the product.
5. Sale: The cod is sold on the Portuguese market (and re-exported to Spain, Brazil, Angola, and other Lusophone markets) as "bacalhau."

When you buy "Portuguese cod" in a store, you are buying a product that was fished in Iceland or Norway and processed in Portugal. European labeling requires indicating the catch area, but it's not always easy to find on the packaging.

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Comparative Table: Portuguese Processing vs. Icelandic Origin

The Portuguese Art of Salting

Having said all of the above, it would be unfair not to acknowledge the value of the Portuguese tradition of cod processing. Portugal has been perfecting the art of salting, curing, and classifying cod for centuries, and that is a huge merit.

The Portuguese classify cod by size with a precision unmatched in other countries:

• Jumbo / Especial: pieces weighing more than 4 kg. The most highly prized.
• Crescido: pieces weighing 2.5 to 4 kg. Excellent value for money.
• Graúdo: pieces weighing 1.5 to 2.5 kg. The most versatile.
• Corrente: pieces weighing 0.5 to 1.5 kg. For shredded recipes.

Furthermore, Portuguese cuts have their own nomenclature (lombo, posta, rabo, abas, línguas) that reflects a deep knowledge of how to utilize each part of the fish for each type of recipe.

Portuguese cod companies like Pascoal, Riberalves, or Lugrade are European leaders in salted cod processing, with modern facilities that combine artisanal tradition with cutting-edge technology.

The problem is not the Portuguese tradition or technique. The problem is that great processing cannot compensate for mediocre raw material.

Quality of Origin vs. Quality of Processing

Here's the key point of this entire comparison: with cod, as with any gastronomic product, the final quality is the result of the quality of the origin multiplied by the quality of the processing.

You can have the best salt master in Portugal, but if the raw material is cod from warm waters, fast-growing and with soft flesh, the result will never be optimal. Salting can concentrate flavors and improve textures, but it cannot create what is not in the fish from the beginning.

That's why the best Portuguese cod companies already select Icelandic cod as a premium raw material. They know that cold-water cod from Iceland, with its slow growth, dense flesh, and high gelatin content, produces the best result after salting.

The ideal equation is clear:

• Icelandic raw material (cold waters, dense flesh, concentrated flavor)
• + careful processing (traditional salting, slow curing)
• = exceptionally high-quality salted cod

You don't need the processing to be Portuguese for it to be good. Iceland has been processing salted cod specifically for the Iberian market for generations and does so with very high standards. What you do need is for the origin to be from cold waters.

Portuguese Recipes with Icelandic Cod

The great Portuguese recipes not only work with Icelandic cod: they work better. Let's see why in the most important ones.

Bacalhau à Brás

The classic Lisbon dish of shredded cod with straw potatoes, egg, and olives. The key is cod that shreds into defined fibers, not a paste. The dense flesh of Icelandic cod shreds with that perfect fibrous texture that gives each bite substance. With soft-fleshed cod, the result is mushier.

Bacalhau com Natas

Gratinated cod with cream and potatoes. Here, the cod competes with the richness of the cream. If the flesh is bland, it disappears under the creaminess. Icelandic cod, with its more concentrated flavor, maintains its personality even under the cream and cheese topping.

Bacalhau à Gomes de Sá

Baked cod with potatoes, onion, hard-boiled egg, and olives. A dish where the cod is in large, visible pieces. The firmness of Icelandic cod withstands baking without falling apart, maintaining defined and juicy flakes.

Bacalhau à Lagareiro

Roasted cod with plenty of olive oil and "smashed" potatoes. This is the most direct recipe: a piece of baked cod drizzled with oil. Here, there's no sauce to hide anything. The quality of the cod is the dish. Icelandic cod shines because it has its own flavor and firm texture.

Pastéis de Bacalhau

The famous Portuguese cod fritters. The dough contains shredded cod, potato, and egg. The fiber of Icelandic cod gives structure to the fritter, and the concentrated flavor is perceptible even if the piece is small. With lower quality cod, the fritter tastes more of potato than fish.

How to Choose Cod for Portuguese Recipes

If you want to do justice to Portuguese recipes, pay attention to these criteria:

1. Look at the origin, not the processing. Cod processed in Portugal but of unknown origin is not necessarily better than cod from Iceland processed in Iceland. Look for "origin: Iceland" or "caught in: Northeast Atlantic (Iceland)" on the label.
2. Choose the right cut. For Bacalhau à Brás you need loins or centers that shred well. For Bacalhau à Lagareiro, a thick and firm loin. For pastéis, cod flakes are perfect and more economical.
3. Natural salt, not industrial. The best salted cod is cured with coarse salt for weeks. Be wary of cod that looks excessively white or wet: it could be a quick industrial cure.
4. Desalt thoroughly. Correct desalting (24-48h in cold water, changing the water every 8h) is as important as the quality of the cod. Excellent cod poorly desalted is a ruined experience.

Conclusion: Tradition or Quality of Origin? Both.

The conclusion of this comparison is not that Portuguese cod is bad or that Portuguese tradition is worthless. Quite the opposite: the Portuguese culinary tradition of cod is one of the richest in the world and deserves all respect.

What we are saying is that "Portuguese cod" is not an indicator of fish quality, because Portugal does not fish cod. It is an indicator of processing tradition, which is valuable but incomplete.

The best way to honor Portuguese recipes is to use the best possible raw material. And the best raw material for salted cod is, consistently, that which comes from the cold waters of Iceland:

• Denser and firmer flesh due to slow growth in cold waters.
• More concentrated flavor that withstands any preparation.
• Natural gelatin that enriches the texture of dishes.
• Traceable origin and certified sustainability.

Don't choose between tradition and quality of origin. Choose both: the masterful recipes of Portuguese cuisine made with premium Icelandic cod. That is the way to the best possible dish.

Frequently Asked Questions

Related Guides

• Golden Cod: Portuguese "à la dorada" recipe
• Bacalhau à Brás: original Portuguese recipe
• Bacalhau com natas: baked recipe
• Where to buy quality salted cod online
• How to desalt cod: step-by-step guide