Summary: The word "bacalada" (salted cod) sounds ancient, almost from another time. And to a certain extent, it is: it refers to a preservation technique that is over five centuries old and fed all of Europe in times when there was no cold chain. But bacalada is not just history. Today, it remains the most widespread way to consume cod in Spain, and the one that provides the greatest complexity of flavor in cooking.
At Bacalalo, since 1990 in the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona, we work with bacalada daily. This guide explains exactly what it is, how it differs from fresh cod, and what varieties exist.
Contents
What is Bacalada
Definition
Bacalada is cod (Gadus morhua) cured using dry salting: the fish, whole or in pieces, is abundantly covered with coarse salt and left to mature for weeks or months. The salt extracts moisture from the muscle, inhibits bacterial growth, and triggers enzymatic changes that profoundly transform the fish's texture and flavor.
The result is a long-lasting preserved product — under proper conditions, it can last for months or years — with an organoleptic profile radically different from fresh cod: more concentrated, more intense, with a depth of flavor that only slow curing can generate.
Bacalada = "bacallà" in Catalan
In Catalonia, the term "bacallà" (pronounced "bacayà") refers to both salted cod and cod in general. When a Catalan restaurant or market talks about bacallà, it is almost always understood to be bacallà salat — salted cod — not fresh. Fresh cod is specified as "bacallà fresc."
This linguistic distinction reflects culinary reality: in Catalonia, the gastronomic tradition of cod was built on salting, not on fresh produce. The great Catalan recipes — l'esqueixada, bacallà amb mongetes, brandada, bacallà a la llauna — are made with desalted cod, not fresh cod.
History: Preservation since the 15th century
Salted cod has its roots in the 15th-century Basque and Portuguese fishing campaigns, when both maritime traditions discovered the great cod banks of the North Atlantic — in the Grand Banks of Newfoundland, in Iceland, on the Norwegian coasts — and developed the technique of salting on board to transport the fish back to Europe in good condition.
The process was simple in concept but demanding in execution: open the fish butterfly-style, remove the head (in some methods), salt generously, and stack. During weeks of travel, the salt did its job. Upon arrival in port, salted cod could be stored for months and distributed inland, reaching areas far from the sea that otherwise would never have had access to fish.
This preservation and distribution capability made cod a fundamental food during Lent and days of meat abstinence, for centuries of European history. Hence, it is so deeply rooted in the cuisines of Mediterranean countries — Spain, Portugal, Italy, Greece — which are far from the original fishing grounds.
Differences between Bacalada and Fresh Cod
The differences between both products are profound and affect all aspects of consumption:
| Characteristic | Bacalada (salted) | Fresh Cod |
|---|---|---|
| Flavor | Intense, concentrated, complex | Mild, delicate, marine |
| Texture | Firmer, in defined flakes after soaking | More tender, crumbles easily |
| Preparation | Requires soaking (12-48h) | Ready to cook |
| Preservation | Months or years in salt | 1-2 days in refrigerator |
| Price | Generally higher per net kg | More variable, depends on season |
| Culinary use | Stews, pil-pil, vizcaína, brandada, esqueixada | Griddle, oven, battered, raw |
| Availability | Year-round | Seasonal (mainly autumn-winter) |
Why bacalada has a more concentrated flavor
The salting process is not limited to dehydrating the fish. Salt activates proteolytic enzymes inherent to the cod muscle that break down proteins into simpler peptides and amino acids. This process — called enzymatic proteolysis or autolysis — is the same mechanism responsible for flavor development in the curing of hams, cheeses, and sausages.
The result is a concentration of flavor compounds — glutamates, inosinates — that do not exist in fresh fish. This is why bacalada has that full, deep, and persistent flavor that fresh cod, no matter how fresh it is, cannot match.
When to use bacalada vs fresh cod
- Use bacalada when: the recipe requires intense flavor (pil-pil, vizcaína, brandada, esqueixada, bacallà amb mongetes); when you want a product available all year round; when flaked texture is important.
- Use fresh cod when: you seek delicacy and subtlety; preparation is quick (griddle, steam); you want the taste of the sea without the intensity of salting; you cook seasonally and the price is competitive.
Types of Bacalada by Cut
Bacalada is not a uniform piece. There are several formats depending on the cut applied before or after salting:
Whole bacalada (with or without head)
The most traditional form: cod opened butterfly-style, with central bone, salt-cured. It can be presented with the head — for a more complete and traditional product sale — or without it.
Whole bacalada is the reference format for traditional markets like the Mercat del Ninot: it allows you to see the size and quality of the entire piece, and the fishmonger can cut exactly the portion you need.
Salted loins (boneless)
Pieces of dorsal loin, already deboned, salt-cured. It is the most convenient format for domestic use because it eliminates the work of deboning and allows for more controlled desalting as the pieces are of uniform size.
Salted loin is the best-selling cut in the gourmet and online segment, where ease of use is as important as quality.
Salted flakes
Salted cod flakes are the most economical part of the production process: these are the pieces and crumbs that result from cutting large pieces, salted and packaged. Ideal for brandada, croquettes, empanadas, or any preparation where cod will be integrated into a mixture and the shape of the piece is not relevant.
Its price is significantly lower than that of loin, with practically the same flavor quality once desalted.
Differences in price and use
| Format | Relative Price | Best Use |
|---|---|---|
| Whole Bacalada | Medium (per gross kg) | Market, large family recipes |
| Salted Loins | High | Pil-pil, griddle, oven, gifts |
| Salted Flakes | Low | Brandada, croquettes, empanadas |
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Bacalada in Catalonia: "bacallà salat"
Catalan culinary tradition
Bacalada occupies a place in Catalan cuisine comparable to that of pork in Castilian cuisine or lamb in Aragonese cuisine: it is a structural ingredient, not an occasional one. It is present in everyday recipes and in the most important celebrations.
The great Catalan cod recipes all use desalted bacalada:
- L'esqueixada de bacallà: Cold salad of desalted and flaked raw cod (uncooked), with tomato, onion, black olives, and peppers. It is the quintessential summer dish in Catalonia.
- Bacallà amb mongetes: Cod with white beans, a classic of popular Catalan cuisine that combines sea protein with legume protein.
- La brandada de bacallà: Creamy emulsion of cod with olive oil and garlic, served hot as an appetizer or first course. In Catalonia, the version with potato is especially popular.
- Bacallà a la llauna: Floured cod cooked in a tin pan with garlic, paprika, and oil. One of the simplest and most delicious recipes in Catalan cuisine.
The importance of bacalada in Catalan gastronomy
The deep roots of cod in Catalonia have historical origins: medieval Catalonia had an active fishing and commercial fleet in the Mediterranean, and salted cod was one of the most valued products due to its preservation and versatility. Catalan merchants have imported bacalada from Nordic countries for centuries.
The Mercat del Ninot as the epicenter of cod in Barcelona
The Mercat del Ninot, in the Eixample district of Barcelona, is one of the municipal markets with the greatest tradition in selling cod in the city. At Bacalalo, we have been working in this market since 1990, offering personally selected bacalada from Iceland and the Cantabrian Sea.
The traditional market remains the best place to buy bacalada: you can see the piece, ask about its origin, request the exact cut, and get advice on desalting. It is a shopping experience that no online platform can fully replicate, although at bacalalo.com we strive to bring it closer.
Bacalada in the Basque Country: Basque Cured Cod
The Basque tradition of salted cod runs parallel to the Catalan one but has its own peculiarities. Basque fishermen were among the first to reach the great banks of Newfoundland and Terranova in the 15th century, and developed their own salting techniques on board vessels.
Basque cod cuisine is perhaps the most technical and elaborate in Spain: cod "al pil-pil," cod "a la vizcaína," and cod "Club Ranero" are preparations that require a deep understanding of the texture and behavior of desalted bacalada. Basque cod is mainly worked in large loin pieces, with skin, to take advantage of the superficial collagen necessary to bind the sauces.
While the Catalan tradition tends towards "esqueixada" (raw) and more Mediterranean recipes, the Basque tradition focuses on long cooking times, emulsified sauces, and highly demanding techniques. Both are complementary and reflect the richness of Spanish gastronomic culture around this fish.
How to Prepare Bacalada: Soaking
Soaking is the essential preliminary process for cooking bacalada. It involves removing excess salt by submerging the pieces in cold water and changing the water periodically.
Basic soaking steps:
- Cut the bacalada into the size pieces you will use (if not already cut)
- Place the pieces in a large container with the skin facing up (salt falls by gravity)
- Cover with abundant cold water and refrigerate
- Change the water approximately every 8 hours
- Total time according to thickness: thin pieces (flaked) 12-18h; medium loins 24-36h; thick loins 36-48h
The correct salt level is personal: some prefer bacalada with a bit more salt, others desalt it completely. To check, taste a small piece before cooking.
For more information and tips on how to desalt cod at home, consult our complete guide at bacalalo.com.
10 Frequently Asked Questions about Bacalada
1. Are "bacalada" and "bacalao" the same?
Bacalao is the fish (Gadus morhua). Bacalada is cod cured in salt. Colloquially, in many areas of Spain, they are used as synonyms, but technically they are different products: one is fresh and the other is cured.
2. Does bacalada have more calories than fresh cod?
Not necessarily. Bacalada has much less water (salt has extracted it), so it has more protein and minerals per gram of dry product. But when desalted, it rehydrates, and the caloric content per cooked serving is comparable to that of fresh cod. What is higher is the sodium content, which should be taken into account.
3. Why was my bacalada too salty after soaking?
It probably needed more soaking time or the water changes were not sufficient. Remember: cold water (not hot tap water), always in the refrigerator, and change the water at least 3 times in 36 hours. If you bought a very thick piece, it might need 48 hours.
4. Can bacalada be eaten uncooked?
Yes. The Catalan esqueixada is the best-known example: desalted bacalada, flaked raw, without any cooking. There is also "bacallà en remull" which is consumed directly after soaking in some traditional recipes.
5. How long does unopened bacalada last?
Properly cured bacalada, stored in a cool, dry place, can last for months. Vacuum-packed pieces have an expiration date indicated by the producer. Once opened or desalted, consume within 2-3 days.
6. What is the difference between Norwegian and Icelandic bacalada?
Both are Gadus morhua, the same cod. The differences are subtle: Norwegian is reputed to be slightly saltier and firmer; Icelandic is usually milder and has a slightly more delicate texture. At Bacalalo, we work with both origins depending on availability and harvest quality.
7. Is salted bacalada the same as dried cod (klippfisk)?
Norwegian klippfisk is cod cured in salt and then air-dried, resulting in an even more dehydrated and concentrated product. Traditional Spanish bacalada generally has less drying than Nordic klippfisk, although different levels of humidity can be found in the market.
8. Where can I buy quality bacalada in Barcelona?
At Mercat del Ninot or on our online store bacalalo.com, with refrigerated shipping throughout Spain. Since 1990, we personally select each piece.
9. Can desalted bacalada be frozen?
Yes. Once desalted, you can freeze the pieces well wrapped in film and in an airtight container for up to 3 months. Always thaw in the refrigerator, never at room temperature.
10. Is bacalada the same product as English "salt cod" or Portuguese "bacalhau"?
Yes, it is the same product with different names: salt cod (English), bacalhau (Portuguese), baccalà (Italian), morue (French). All are cod (Gadus morhua) cured in salt. Differences between countries are in the process (curing time, drying level) and culinary use, not the base product.
Discover Bacalada at Bacalalo
At Bacalalo, since 1990 in the Mercat del Ninot, we have been working with bacalada as it has always been done: with personal selection of suppliers, attention to origin, and direct customer advice. If you have questions about which type of bacalada best suits your recipe, you can ask us at the market or through bacalalo.com.
We also recommend our guide on cod cuts and the "falsilla" if you want to delve deeper into specific cod pieces and their culinary uses.
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