Summary: If you've ever looked at the side of an anchovy tin and seen "000", "00", or a simple "0" and wondered what exactly it means, you're not alone. This classification appears on many gourmet products on the market and creates more confusion than clarity. The reason is simple yet surprising: the classification of anchovies by zeros is not officially regulated by any European or state body. It's an industry standard, a convention among producers that each company interprets in its own way.
That doesn't mean it's irrelevant. Knowing how to read that label—along with other key indicators—can make the difference between an extraordinary quality anchovy and one that is merely good. At Bacalalo, operating in Mercat del Ninot since 1990, we have spent decades personally selecting anchovies with trusted suppliers. Here we share everything we've learned.
Content
The Anchovy Classification System (0, 00, 000)
What each category means
The zero classification primarily refers to the calibre or size of the anchovy before processing:
- 0 (one zero): Standard size anchovies, generally between 12 and 15 cm in length. These are good anchovies, suitable for everyday use.
- 00 (two zeros): Medium-large anchovies, approximately between 15 and 18 cm. Greater amount of flesh, more pronounced flavor.
- 000 (triple zero): The largest anchovies, exceeding 18-20 cm. Higher proportion of muscle to bone, more compact flesh, and more intense flavor.
Size matters because the larger the anchovy, the larger the resulting anchovy fillet after cleaning, and generally the higher the quality of maturation. A large anchovy has had more time to develop in the sea, which translates into a higher concentration of fatty acids and a richer organoleptic profile.
However, size is only part of the equation. The zero classification does not in itself guarantee the quality of the final product, because each producer applies their own selection criteria.
Why it is not regulated and what the label guarantees
Unlike extra virgin olive oil, PDO cheese, or Iberian ham, anchovies do not have European or Spanish regulations defining what exactly a "triple zero" is. This means that a manufacturer can put "000" on their label following different criteria from their competitors.
What is regulated is the mandatory information on the label: species, country of origin of the fish, catch area, net weight, drained weight, allergens, and best-before date. This data is what truly allows for evaluating the quality of an anchovy, regardless of the zeros appearing on the lid.
What Makes an Anchovy Top Quality (Beyond 000)
Species: Engraulis encrasicolus, the European anchovy
The European anchovy, scientifically named Engraulis encrasicolus, is the benchmark species for premium anchovies in the Spanish market. It is mainly caught in the Bay of Biscay, the Mediterranean, and the Adriatic, and its composition of omega-3 fatty acids, texture, and flavor clearly differentiate it from other species of the genus Engraulis caught in Pacific waters.
Peruvian anchovy (Engraulis ringens), for example, is widely used in the fishmeal industry and also in some mid-to-low-range salted products. The organoleptic difference from the European anchovy is notable: the flesh is more fibrous, the flavor more metallic, and the aroma less delicate.
When buying premium anchovies, check that the species indicated on the label is Engraulis encrasicolus. If the label only says "anchovy" or "boquerón" without specifying the species, it's a sign of less transparency.
Fishing area: Cantabrian vs Escalda, Adriatic and Pacific
The catch area directly influences the product's characteristics:
- Cantabrian (FAO 27, zone IXa and VIIIc): The cold, nutrient-rich waters of the Bay of Biscay produce anchovies with a higher intramuscular fat content, resulting in a more flavorful, tender anchovy with more uniform maturation. The traditional fishing season is from March to June, when anchovies arrive at the coast rich in fat after the winter.
- Adriatic (FAO 37): Adriatic anchovies are generally smaller and have a different flavor profile. They are widely used in the Italian industry and in Mediterranean preparations. They are not inferior, but they are different.
- Escalda (North Sea, FAO 27): Lower volume fishing, mainly used in Northern Europe.
- Pacific / Peruvian anchovy: As mentioned, a different species with lower gastronomic value in the premium segment.
The designation "Cantabrian Anchovy" is the most valued in the Spanish market and in high-end international markets.
Maturation time in salt: the secret few mention
Maturation is the process that transforms a fresh anchovy into an exceptional quality anchovy. The fish is arranged in alternating layers with coarse salt and subjected to a controlled curing process that can last between 8 and 24 months.
- Minimum 8 months: Correct anchovies, with developed flavor but without the complexity of longer cures.
- 12 months: The quality standard for high-end anchovies. The protein has been completely transformed by enzymatic autolysis, resulting in a silky texture and pronounced umami.
- 18-24 months or more: Luxury anchovies, with an extraordinarily complex flavor profile. Some artisanal preparations can exceed two years of maturation.
Insufficient maturation time produces more fibrous anchovies, with a more aggressive and less elegant flavor. The label rarely indicates the exact curing time, so one must trust the producer or ask directly.
Cleaning process: manual vs. industrial
After maturation, anchovies are cleaned to remove the central bone, fins, and skin remnants. Here, the difference between artisanal and industrial processing is enormous:
- Manual cleaning: Each anchovy is individually handled by expert hands. The shape of the piece is respected, less presentable parts are removed, and a uniform filleting with minimal breakages is achieved.
- Industrial cleaning: High-performance machinery. Faster and cheaper, but it produces less uniform pieces, with more breakages and greater variability in the final result.
Hand-cleaned anchovies have a more regular appearance, a more consistent texture, and generally a cleaner flavor because the process does not generate as much oxidation.
How to Read an Anchovy Label
What indicates the origin: reference zones
Provenance is the first data to look for on the label. The reference denominations in the Spanish market are:
- Cantabrian / Cantabrian Sea: Anchovies caught in the Bay of Biscay. Reference ports: Santoña, Laredo, Castro Urdiales, Ondarroa, Bermeo, Fuenterrabía (Hondarribia).
- L'Escala (Girona): The quintessential Mediterranean anchovy in Catalonia. Smaller than the Cantabrian but with centuries of artisanal tradition. It has its own Protected Geographical Indication.
- Adriatic: Italian or Croatian origin. A distinct product, valid in its context but differentiated.
- No specific origin: The anchovy comes from any area and has been processed in the indicated location. It is not necessarily bad, but there is less transparency.
What to look for: species, net weight vs. drained weight, format
- Species: Must indicate Engraulis encrasicolus for European anchovy.
- Net weight vs. drained weight: Net weight includes the oil. Drained weight is the actual anchovy you pay for. Always compare the price per gram of drained weight.
- Covering oil: Extra virgin olive oil as a preservation medium is the superior quality standard. Sunflower oil is more neutral and cheaper. Olive oil (without "extra virgin") is in an intermediate position.
- Salt: Well-prepared anchovies require little salt added to the oil because they have already absorbed the necessary amount during maturation. Too much salt can mask processing defects.
The "in extra virgin olive oil" format as a quality indicator
It is not an infallible criterion, but it is a relevant sign: producers who invest in quality raw material also tend to pay attention to the covering oil. Using extra virgin olive oil is more expensive than sunflower oil, and a manufacturer who has cured their anchovies for 12-18 months is unlikely to cover them with second-rate oil.
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Cantabrian Anchovies vs L'Escala vs Other Origins
Objective organoleptic differences
| Characteristic | Cantabrian | L'Escala | Adriatic |
|---|---|---|---|
| Size | Large (suitable for 000) | Medium | Variable |
| Texture | Meaty, silky | Firm, slightly drier | Variable |
| Flavor | Pronounced umami, balanced saltiness | Saltier, intense | Variable |
| Fat | High | Medium | Low-medium |
| Price | High | Medium-high | Medium |
Why the Cantabrian has a premium reputation
The Bay of Biscay is one of Europe's richest fishing grounds in terms of nutrients and biodiversity. The cold waters promote the slow growth of anchovies, resulting in a higher intramuscular fat deposit. This fat is transformed during maturation into the compounds that give Cantabrian anchovies their characteristic, deep, and complex flavor.
Furthermore, the artisanal tradition of preserves in northern Spain—especially in Santoña and the Basque Country—has developed over generations a know-how that is difficult to replicate industrially.
L'Escala as a high-quality alternative
The anchovy from L'Escala, in Alt Empordà (Girona), has a Protected Geographical Indication recognized by the European Union. Although it is smaller than the Cantabrian anchovy and has a different flavor profile—saltier, more "Mediterranean"—it is a proven quality product with a history dating back to the 18th century.
At Bacalalo, we work with both traditions because we believe that excellence does not have a single origin. What matters is the quality of the process, not the flag.
Fair Price for Premium Anchovies
Indicative price ranges by category
The price of anchovies in the retail market varies enormously:
- Entry-level: €3-6 per 50-60g tin (standard anchovy, possibly uncertain origin, sunflower oil)
- Mid-range: €6-12 per 50g tin (Cantabrian or L'Escala anchovy, olive oil, 8-12 months curing)
- High-end: €12-25 per 50g tin (000, Cantabrian, 12-18 months curing, manual cleaning, EVOO)
- Exceptional range: More than €25 per tin (very limited productions, over 18 months curing, special formats)
When it is worth paying more
Paying more for quality anchovies makes sense when:
- The anchovy will be the star of the dish (on toast with butter, on a platter, on an undressed salad)
- You are giving it as a gift and want to convey quality
- You seek gastronomic pleasure itself
If anchovies are to be incorporated into a sauce, a pizza with many ingredients, or a stew with strong flavors, the difference between a mid-range and a high-end product diminishes. Quality must be justified by its use.
15 Frequently Asked Questions about 000 Anchovies
1. Are 000 anchovies always better than 00 or 0?
Not necessarily. Calibre is only one factor of quality. A 000 anchovy with short maturation, industrial cleaning, and sunflower oil can be inferior to an artisanal 00 with 18 months of curing and EVOO.
2. Is there a real difference between a 00 and a 000 anchovy?
In terms of size, yes: 000 is larger. In terms of flavor, the difference depends more on the curing process and the raw material than on the calibre itself. In practice, many superior quality anchovies are marketed as 00 or even without a numerical classification.
3. Which anchovies should I buy for a cheese or charcuterie board?
For a board where flavors compete, a Cantabrian 00 or 000 anchovy in EVOO with an intense but balanced flavor is best. It can be served directly from the tin or drained and placed on paper towels a few minutes beforehand.
4. Can anchovies in oil be refrozen?
Anchovies in oil are a preserve and do not require refrigeration before opening. Once opened, they keep in the fridge covered with oil for 1-2 weeks. Freezing is not recommended: the texture deteriorates upon thawing.
5. What is "mortero oil"?
Mortero oil is the oil left in a tin of quality anchovies, imbued with the flavors and aromas of the fish. Instead of discarding it, chefs use it to dress salads, prepare vinaigrettes, add to sauces, or spread on bread. It is an intensely flavorful ingredient and very little waste for a premium product.
6. Do Cantabrian anchovies have PGI or PDO?
Currently, there is no specific PGI or PDO for "Cantabrian Anchovy" at the European level, although there are industry initiatives to obtain one. L'Escala anchovy does have a recognized PGI by the EU.
7. Why are some anchovies very red and others paler?
The reddish-mahogany color is typical of well-matured anchovies, where the fish's hemoglobin has transformed during curing. Paler anchovies have had less maturation time or have been processed with less time in salt. The ideal color is a uniform red-amber without grayish spots.
8. What is the difference between an anchovy and a boquerón?
They are the same fish (Engraulis encrasicolus) processed differently. Boquerón is generally consumed in vinegar (boquerón en vinagre) or fried fresh. Anchovy is the anchovy cured in salt and preserved in oil. The salting and maturation process is what creates the characteristic flavor of the anchovy.
9. Do anchovies have a lot of sodium? Are they suitable for low-sodium diets?
Anchovies have a high sodium content due to the salting process. They are not the most suitable food for very strict low-sodium diets. However, consumed in usual amounts (2-4 fillets per serving), the contribution is manageable in the context of a varied diet.
10. How do you know if an anchovy is spoiled?
A spoiled anchovy has a rancid or very acidic smell (different from the intense but clean smell of a good anchovy), grayish or greenish color, mushy or sticky texture. If the tin is bulging or the oil looks cloudy, discard it without hesitation.
11. Is it better to buy anchovies in a tin or a glass jar?
Glass allows you to see the product before buying it, which is an advantage. The tin protects better from light, which is one of the factors that accelerates fat oxidation. Both formats are valid if the production process is good. Glass is usually associated with gourmet and gift presentations.
12. How long do unopened anchovies last?
It depends on the format and the process. A well-made tin of anchovies can last between 3 and 5 years unopened under appropriate conditions (cool, dry, dark place). Some artisanal producers indicate shorter dates depending on the salt level and process.
13. Are anchovies suitable for pregnant women?
Anchovies are small, short-lived fish, so they accumulate less mercury than large predators. They are not on the list of fish to avoid during pregnancy according to AESAN. However, given their high sodium content, they should be consumed in moderation. Always consult a doctor for personalized recommendations.
14. Can canned anchovies be used to cook pasta alla puttanesca or pizza?
Yes, and they are perfect for that. In hot sauces, anchovies melt and add umami without being noticeable as individual pieces. For these preparations, a mid-range anchovy is sufficient; there's no need to use artisanal 000s, which are better enjoyed cold.
15. Which wine pairs best with quality anchovies?
Anchovies call for wines with good acidity and certain minerality to balance their saltiness: a Galician Albariño, a Basque Txakoli, a Manzanilla or Fino de Jerez, or a Cava Brut Nature are classic choices. Avoid very tannic or heavily oaked wines, which clash with the fish's umami.
Where to Buy Top Quality Anchovies
At Bacalalo, since 1990 in Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona, we personally select our anchovies with suppliers from the Cantabrian and Mediterranean. Each product reaches you with guaranteed cold logistics, maintaining the cold chain from origin to your door.
Our selection of premium anchovies and preserves is available at bacalalo.com. If you have questions about which anchovy best suits your needs, you can ask us directly at Mercat del Ninot or through our website.
The best anchovy is one whose origin you know. We help you choose.
