Summary
If you've seen anchovy cans with the designation "00" or even "000" in a specialty store or on a bar menu, and the price has surprised you, this article explains exactly what's behind it... In this guide: What the "00" caliber means in anchovies, Comparison 0 vs 00 vs 000: size, price and texture, Why "00" anchovies cost twice as much (or more).
If you've seen anchovy cans with the designation "00" or even "000" in a specialty store or on a bar menu, and the price has surprised you, this article explains exactly what's behind those zeros and why the price difference between a 0-caliber anchovy and a 00-caliber anchovy is not just marketing.
At Mercat del Ninot, we have been working with Cantabrian anchovies for decades, and one of the most frequent questions at the counter is precisely this: what is "00" and is it worth paying for?
What the "00" caliber means in anchovies
The caliber in canned anchovies is a classification system by fillet size. It is not a brand, not a generic quality designation, nor a trade name: it is an objective measure that determines how many fillets fit into a standard-weight can.
The main criterion is the number of fillets per reference can (usually a 50g drained weight can, although presentations vary). The more zeros, the fewer fillets fit in the can because each fillet is larger. The logic is the same as in other calibrated products: the more zeros, the larger the piece size.
Caliber 00 corresponds to fillets between 8 and 11 units per standard can, with an individual fillet weight of approximately 5-7 grams drained. These fillets are notably wider and meatier than 0-caliber ones, with a cross-section that clearly shows the muscular layers of the fish and a more intense and uniform reddish-golden color.
For a complete classification: not all brands use exactly the same numerical ranges, and some add their own designations ("Selection", "Gran Reserva", "Premium") that overlap with the caliber system. What is always relevant is the actual number of fillets per can or the unit weight per fillet when specified.
Comparison 0 vs 00 vs 000: size, price and texture
The difference between calibers is more than a matter of size. Each caliber has its own sensory profile that makes it more suitable for some uses than others.
Caliber 0: between 12 and 14 fillets per 50g drained can. Narrow fillet, about 3-4g per unit. Firm, more compact texture. Intense but somewhat more linear flavor, less complex than higher calibers. Reference price: between 6 and 10 euros per 50g drained can in olive oil from a quality producer.
Caliber 00: between 8 and 11 fillets per can. Wide fillet, about 5-7g per unit. Silkier texture inside, with greater presence of visible intramuscular fat. More complex flavor, with a longer finish and more developed umami notes. Reference price: between 12 and 20 euros per equivalent can. The price increase over caliber 0 ranges from 60% to 100% depending on the producer.
Caliber 000: between 5 and 7 fillets per can. The largest fillet, 8-12g per unit. Reserved for the best specimens of the season. Exceptionally meaty texture. Very concentrated flavor, with maximum intensity and an aromatic complexity that only develops in older specimens with higher fat content. Price: between 20 and 40 euros per equivalent can. Limited production; not all producers offer it.
The textural difference between calibers has a direct physiological explanation: larger fillets come from fish that have reached greater maturity and have accumulated more fat in the muscle tissue before capture. This intramuscular fat is what, during the 6-12 months of salting and curing, generates the complex aromatic compounds that distinguish a superior-caliber anchovy. It is not simply "bigger": it is fatter, more cured, more complex.
Why "00" anchovies cost twice as much (or more)
The price of a 00 anchovy compared to a 0 anchovy from the same producer reflects three real factors, not speculative margins:
Lower yield per catch. In an anchovy net during the May-June Cantabrian season, larger specimens (those that will yield caliber 00 and 000) represent a small fraction of the total catch. Most of the fish in the same net have dispersed sizes. Selecting the largest ones for the production of superior calibers implies manually separating a smaller part of the total volume.
Higher raw material value per kilo. A larger fish has needed more time at sea to reach that size, more food, more years of life cycle. Its capture represents more accumulated value. In market terms, the price of fresh fish intended for calibers 00 and 000 is higher than that of smaller sizes.
Higher processing cost. In the artisanal production of salted fish, the work of cleaning, eviscerating, and filleting is done by hand. A large fillet requires more work time per unit than a small one. Furthermore, the probability of defects (fillet breakage during processing) increases with size, which raises the percentage of waste.
There is a fourth factor that is not directly a production cost but explains part of the price differential: demand from the hospitality sector. High-end restaurants and specialized stores preferentially request 00 and 000 anchovies because that is what differentiates their offering. This sustained demand for limited production keeps prices structurally high.
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Is it worth it for every use?
The honest answer is: it depends on the use. Caliber 00 is not always the best choice, and buying 000 anchovies for a base sauté is an unnecessary expense.
The gilda is where caliber 00 makes the biggest difference. In a gilda, the anchovy has a visual presence and is the most powerful flavor element of the ensemble. A large fillet, well rolled around the guindilla, gives the pintxo its identity. With caliber 0, the gilda exists but loses visual impact and the balance with the olive and guindilla is unbalanced.
The toast with butter is the second use where the 00 is fully justified. The fillet covers the bread surface well, its meaty texture contrasts with the melted butter, and the flavor is complex enough for the toast to be a dish in itself. With caliber 0, the toast works but the result is more discreet.
For pasta or sauces, caliber 0 is perfectly sufficient and the price difference does not translate into a perceptible difference in the final dish. The anchovy dissolves in the oil during the sauté, and what matters is the concentration of umami, not the size of the original fillet. Here, 00 does not offer a real advantage.
To eat the anchovy on its own, on a white plate, accompanied only by bread and good olive oil, caliber 00 or 000 is where the investment makes the most sense. The quality difference is completely perceptible in this context: the silky texture, the complexity of flavor, and the size of the fillet are exactly what distinguishes a serious tasting from a simply correct one.
For pizza and vinaigrettes as a flavor enhancer, caliber 0 is the rational choice. The anchovy is mixed or baked with other ingredients, and the differences in caliber disappear in the overall dish.
Bacalalo's 00 Gourmet Selection Anchovy: our best seller
The Cantabrian 00 Gourmet Selection anchovies are the best-selling product in our online store and, for years, a fixed reference in Mercat del Ninot for customers looking for a high-quality anchovy without reaching the price of limited edition 000 calibers.
We select them directly from producers in Santoña with whom we have been working for years. The selection criteria have three non-negotiable requirements: seasonal anchovies (May-June exclusively), extra virgin olive oil as the only preservation medium, and 00 caliber verified by fillet count, not by manufacturer's declaration.
The flavor profile is what we expect from an anchovy of this quality: intense, with well-developed umami notes, a balanced salty touch, and a persistent finish that doesn't disappear with the second sip of txakoli. The texture is simultaneously fleshy and silky, with no pastiness.
Our "0" Gourmet Selection anchovies are the alternative for those looking for the quality of the selection in a more affordable caliber. Same selection process, same producer, same oil. The only difference is the size of the fillet and, consequently, the intensity of flavor.
You can see both options in our Cantabrian anchovy collection at Bacalalo.com.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is a 00 anchovy better than a 0 anchovy?
In terms of flavor and texture, a good quality 00 anchovy is more complex and meatier than a 0 from the same producer. But a 0 anchovy from an excellent producer can be superior to a 00 from a mediocre producer. Caliber is an indicator of category within the same range, not an absolute guarantee of quality regardless of the brand or producer.
How many fillets are in a can of 00 anchovies?
A standard can of 00 anchovies (50g drained weight format) contains between 8 and 11 fillets. In larger formats (100g or 120g drained), which are most common in specialty stores, you will find approximately 16 to 22 fillets. The exact count varies slightly between batches of the same season due to the natural variability in specimen size.
Is caliber 000 available from all brands?
No. Caliber 000 is a limited production category that not all producers offer regularly. Some produce it in seasonal editions when the season yields exceptionally large specimens; others have it in their permanent catalog but in small quantities. If you find it available from a trusted brand and plan to consume it in a context where the caliber adds value (eating alone, gildas), it's worth trying.
Are 00 anchovies in sunflower oil worth it?
No. Sunflower oil covers and flattens the anchovy's flavor profile, regardless of caliber. A 00 anchovy in sunflower oil yields a final result inferior to a 0 anchovy in extra virgin olive oil. If the budget is limited, choose a smaller caliber but always olive oil.
How do I know if I'm paying for a real 00?
Count the fillets when you open the can. If it has between 8 and 11 fillets in a 50g drained can, it's caliber 00. If it has 12 or more, you've been sold a 0 with a 00 label. With larger formats, adjust the count proportionally. The transparency of serious producers is also verified: those who work with real caliber usually indicate it in their communication materials and have no problem providing fillet ranges per can.
Is there a noticeable difference between 00 and 000?
Yes, clearly, but only in certain tasting contexts. In a gilda or eaten alone, the 000 has a more intense flavor, a meatier texture, and a more prolonged mouthfeel. In any preparation where the anchovy is combined with other strong ingredients (very spicy guindilla, vinegar, tomato), the difference between 00 and 000 is less perceptible. The cost-benefit ratio of jumping from 00 to 000 is more debatable than jumping from 0 to 00.
Is Bacalalo's 00 anchovy the best-seller?
Yes. The Cantabrian 00 Gourmet Selection anchovies are the best-selling product in our online store. The combination of real 00 caliber, extra virgin olive oil, and a mid-to-high price range makes them the preferred entry point for customers looking for reference anchovies without reaching the collector's range.
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