Summary: Cantabrian anchovies are fillets of European anchovy (Engraulis encrasicolus) fished in the Cantabrian Sea, cured in salt, and packed in olive oil. It is a denomination of origin that indicates both the origin of the fish and a tradition of elaboration that has more than a century of history on the northern coast of Spain.
Table of Contents
- What are Cantabrian anchovies?
- The species: Engraulis encrasicolus
- The fishing season: "la costera"
- Processing areas in Spain
- From sea to can: the production process
- Signs of quality (and poor quality)
- Packaging formats
- Cantabrian anchovies vs other anchovies
- Why is there such a price difference?
- Uses in the kitchen
- Frequently asked questions
- Conclusions
What are Cantabrian anchovies?
Cantabrian anchovies are fillets of European anchovy (Engraulis encrasicolus) fished in the Cantabrian Sea, cured in salt, and packed in olive oil. It is a denomination of origin that indicates both the origin of the fish and a tradition of elaboration that has more than a century of history on the northern coast of Spain.
The Cantabrian Sea is a cold sea, with strong currents and an ecosystem rich in plankton. These conditions produce anchovies with an optimal fat profile: enough to provide a melting texture and intense flavor, but not so much as to be cloying. It is this combination of cold waters, natural feeding, and the genetics of the European anchovy that makes Cantabrian anchovy considered the best in the world for salting.
At Bacalalo, we work exclusively with Cantabrian anchovies of artisanal elaboration, selected for their size, texture, and flavor. We believe that a good anchovy is one of the great gastronomic pleasures: simple, direct, and unforgettable.
The species: Engraulis encrasicolus
The European anchovy (Engraulis encrasicolus) is a small pelagic fish (8-20 cm) that lives in numerous schools in the eastern Atlantic and the Mediterranean. In Spain, it is known as bocarte or boquerón when fresh, and as anchoa when cured in salt and packed in oil.
What makes this species special for salting is its fat-to-muscle ratio. The European anchovy has firm, compact flesh that withstands the curing process well without falling apart, and its fat (which varies by season) develops complex umami flavors during maturation. Anchovies caught in spring (fishing season) have the optimal fat content for salting.
The fishing season: "la costera"
The anchovy fishing season ("la costera") in the Cantabrian Sea occurs between April and June, when schools of bocarte migrate to the coast to feed and reproduce. It is during these months that the fish has the ideal fat ratio and is caught at its best.
The fishing season is strictly regulated by the European Union to ensure the sustainability of the resource. There are catch quotas, temporary closures, and minimum sizes. In recent years, after a population collapse in 2005-2010 that forced the fishery to close, populations have recovered, and the season has become productive again, although never to the level of previous decades.
Canneries buy fresh bocarte at the fish markets of Santoña, Laredo, Castro Urdiales, Bermeo, Getaria, and other Cantabrian ports. The quality of the raw material depends on the moment of capture, the size of the pieces, and how quickly they are brought to the factory. The best anchovies are salted on the same day they are caught, guaranteeing maximum freshness.
Related products from Bacalalo
Processing areas in Spain
Santoña and Cantabria
The most famous area with the richest tradition. Santoña is the undisputed capital of Spanish anchovy, with more than 40 canneries. Also Laredo, Colindres, and Castro Urdiales.
Basque Country
Getaria, Bermeo, Ondarroa, and Mundaka have their own canning tradition. Basque anchovies tend to be saltier and cured for longer. The quality is comparable to those from Santoña.
L'Escala (Catalonia)
L'Escala, on the Costa Brava, has an anchovy tradition of over 100 years, with Italian influence similar to Santoña's. L'Escala anchovies are excellent and have their own denomination. Although the bocarte usually comes from the Cantabrian Sea, the elaboration is Catalan.
Asturias and Galicia
Less of a canning tradition for anchovies, but there are quality artisanal producers gaining recognition.
From sea to can: the production process
- Reception and classification: fresh bocarte arrives at the factory and is classified by size. Large pieces (8-10 cm+) go into premium ranges.
- Heading and evisceration: the head and entrails are removed, leaving the body clean.
- Salting in barrels: alternating layers of anchovy and sea salt in plastic or wooden barrels. Pressed with weights. The salt initiates the curing.
- Maturation (6-18 months): during this time, the fish enzymes and salt transform the texture and flavor. The fish darkens, firms up, and develops complex umami notes. Controlled temperature (12-18 °C).
- Washing: salt is removed, and the fish are washed in mild brine.
- Manual filleting: "sobadoras" (expert filleters) separate the fillets from the central bone, remove the skin, and clean each piece. This is manual work that requires skill and speed.
- Packaging: fillets are neatly placed in cans or jars and covered with olive oil. They are vacuum sealed.
Signs of quality (and poor quality)
Good signs
- Uniform coppery pink color
- Whole fillets, without tears or fraying
- Firm texture that melts in the mouth
- Clean taste: salty with umami, no bitterness or rancidity
- Clean and transparent oil
Bad signs
- Very dark color (brown or gray): excessive curing or poor raw material
- Broken, frayed fillets or with visible bones: poor filleting
- Rubbery or pasty texture: poor curing
- Bitter, metallic, or rancid taste: oxidation or old product
- Cloudy oil or with debris: deficient packaging
Packaging formats
- Round can (8-14 fillets): the most classic format. Protects from light. Formats from 50g to 100g.
- Glass jar: allows the product to be seen. More elegant. Better for gifts. Same quality.
- Large can (20-40 fillets): for hospitality or family consumption. Better value for money per gram.
- Salted fillets (not packed in oil): product in salt, for cleaning and home use. More artisanal, saltier. Requires prior preparation.
Cantabrian anchovies vs other anchovies
In the supermarket, you will find anchovies at very different prices. The main differences are in the origin of the fish and the process:
- Cantabrian (Spain): Engraulis encrasicolus. Long artisanal curing. High price (60-150 €/kg). Premium quality.
- Mediterranean (Spain, Italy, Croatia): same species. Variable quality. Generally less curing. Medium price (30-60 €/kg).
- Argentina: Engraulis anchoita. Different species, decent quality, low price. Widely used for private label brands.
- Peru/Chile: Engraulis ringens (anchoveta). Lower quality for salting. Very low price. The cheapest anchovies on the market.
- Morocco: same species as European. Quality on the rise. Competitive price. Some Spanish canneries produce there.
Why is there such a price difference?
A 50g can can cost from €1.50 to €15. The difference is explained by:
- Origin of the fish: Cantabrian bocarte vs Pacific anchoveta. The cost of raw material can differ 5-10x.
- Curing time: 6 months vs 12-18 months. More time = more storage, more shrinkage, more cost.
- Filleting: manual (Santoña) vs mechanical (industry). Manual filleting is slow and expensive.
- Selection: premium ranges discard 30-50% of pieces that do not meet standards. Economic ranges use everything.
- Oil: extra virgin olive oil vs refined vs sunflower. The cost difference is significant.
In short: you pay for craftsmanship, time, and selection. An anchovy in a €10 can has undergone a 12+ month process and has passed through the hands of specialized people at each step. An anchovy in a €1.50 can has been industrially produced in weeks.
Storage and shelf life
Cantabrian anchovies are a salt-cured product, which gives them a long shelf life if stored correctly:
- Closed can or jar: store in a cool, dry place (pantry, 15-20 °C). Refrigeration is not necessary. The best-before date is usually 2-3 years from packaging, but well-preserved anchovies can be perfect long after this date.
- Once opened: transfer to a glass container with olive oil covering the fillets. In the refrigerator, consume within 5-10 days. The main enemy is oxidation: fillets not covered in oil will darken and change flavor.
- Do not freeze: freezing alters the texture of cured anchovies. It is not recommended.
- Serving temperature: remove from the refrigerator 10-15 minutes before consuming so that the oil becomes fluid and the aromas unfold.
An interesting fact: canned anchovies, like good wines, can improve with age. Some canneries sell specific vintages (anchovies cured for 18-24 months) that achieve extraordinary flavor complexity, with notes of dried fruit and a deep umami reminiscent of cured Iberian ham.
The oil in the can also has value: it is imbued with the flavor of the anchovies and is delicious for dressing salads, pasta, or toast. Don't waste it.
Uses in the kitchen
- Appetizer: alone on toast, the noblest and most direct use.
- Pintxos: gildas, matrimonios, banderillas with olives and guindilla.
- Salads: Caesar, Mediterranean, Catalan (with escalivada).
- Pasta: puttanesca, aglio e olio with anchovies, bagna cauda.
- Pizzas: anchovy is a classic pizza topping (napoletana).
- Sauces: green sauce, tapenade, anchovy butter, salad dressings.
- Meats: vitello tonnato (with tuna and anchovies), lamb with anchovies (Provençal cuisine).
Conclusions
- What are Cantabrian anchovies?: Cantabrian anchovies are fillets of European anchovy (Engraulis encrasicolus) fished in the Cantabrian Sea, cured in salt, and packed in olive oil.
- The species: Engraulis encrasicolus: The European anchovy (Engraulis encrasicolus) is a small pelagic fish (8-20 cm) that lives in numerous schools in the eastern Atlantic and the Mediterranean.
- The fishing season: "la costera": The anchovy fishing season in the Cantabrian Sea occurs between April and June, when schools of bocarte migrate to the coast to feed and reproduce.
- Processing areas in Spain: The most famous area with the richest tradition.
- From sea to can: the production process: In the supermarket, you will find anchovies at very different prices.
Frequently asked questions
Are all Cantabrian anchovies the same?
No. The fish is the same, but the quality varies enormously depending on the cannery: curing time, selection, manual or mechanical filleting, type of oil. There are excellent and mediocre Cantabrian anchovies.
Is it possible to know the origin of the bocarte?
Regulations require indicating the capture zone on the label. "FAO Zone 27 Sub-area VIII" indicates Cantabrian Sea/Bay of Biscay. If another zone is indicated (e.g., FAO 34, 37, 41), the fish is not from the Cantabrian Sea. The difference is explained by: Origin of the fish: Cantabrian bocarte vs Pacific anchoveta.
Do anchovies expire?
Canned anchovies have a best-before date (not an expiration date). When sealed, they can be good years after the date. Once opened, consume within 5-10 days, covered with oil, in the refrigerator.
Are Cantabrian anchovies sustainable?
The Cantabrian bocarte fishery is regulated with quotas, closures, and minimum sizes. After the collapse of 2005-2010, management has improved, and populations have recovered. Look for brands with MSC certification if sustainability is a priority for you.
How many anchovies are in a can?
It depends on the format. A 50g net can usually contains 6-10 fillets. A 100g can, 14-20 fillets. It varies depending on the size of the anchovies and the brand. The species: Engraulis encrasicolus The fishing season: "la costera" Processing areas in Spain From sea to can: the production process Signs of quality (and poor quality) Packaging formats Cantabrian anchovies vs other anchovies Why is there such a price difference?
Try our artisanal Cantabrian anchovies at Bacalalo.
