Summary: Not all Santoña anchovies are created equal. Within the same denomination, there are products of extraordinary quality and mediocre products that take advantage of the name. The difference between an exceptional Santoña anchovy and a mediocre one is as great as the difference between an acorn-fed Iberian ham and a grain-fed ham: same name, completely different experience.
Table of Contents
- Why does choosing well matter?
- Anchovy sizes: from 00 to 2
- Curing time: 6, 12, or 18 months
- Type of oil: EVOO, virgin, or refined
- Can vs. glass jar
- How to read an anchovy label
- Price ranges and what to expect
- How to organize an anchovy tasting at home
- Mistakes when buying anchovies
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Conclusions
Why does choosing well matter?
Not all Santoña anchovies are created equal. Within the same denomination, there are products of extraordinary quality and mediocre products that take advantage of the name. The difference between an exceptional Santoña anchovy and a mediocre one is as great as the difference between an acorn-fed Iberian ham and a grain-fed ham: same name, completely different experience.
Choosing well is the difference between opening a can and saying "this is incredible" or saying "I don't understand why people pay so much for anchovies." The first reaction comes from a well-chosen premium product; the second, from buying blindly based on price or a famous brand without understanding what's inside.
At Bacalalo, we select anchovies from the best canneries in the area, and we've learned that quality depends on five key factors: fillet size, curing time, type of oil, packaging format, and, of course, the raw material (Cantabrian anchovy caught in season). In this guide, we'll teach you how to evaluate them so you can choose wisely.
Anchovy sizes: from 00 to 2
Anchovies are classified by fillet size. The classification varies depending on the cannery, but the most common system in Santoña is:
- Double zero (00): the largest fillets (10-12 cm). Exceptional pieces, manually selected. Only obtained from the largest anchovies caught at the beginning of the season, when the fish has more fat. They are the most expensive and most prized. Meaty and firm texture, deep flavor.
- Zero (0): large fillets (8-10 cm). The standard high-end of most canneries. Excellent value for money for premium use. This is the size we recommend for eating on their own on toast.
- One (1): medium fillets (6-8 cm). The mid-range. Good flavor, correct texture, more accessible price. Perfect for daily use: salads, pasta, pintxos.
- Two (2): small fillets (less than 6 cm). The basic range. Correct flavor but less firm texture. Ideal for cooking (they break down in sauces) or for anchovy pâté.
The general rule is: the larger the size, the higher the price and the better the gastronomic experience. But a size 1 fillet from an excellent cannery can be better than a 00 from a mediocre cannery. Size is important, but it's not everything.
Curing time: 6, 12, or 18 months
Salt curing is the process that transforms fresh anchovies into anchovies. Curing time greatly influences the final product's flavor and texture.
- 6 months (legal minimum): mild flavor, softer texture. The anchovy is "correct" but has not developed all the flavor complexity it can achieve. Many economic brands use this minimum time.
- 10-12 months: the sweet spot for most quality canneries. Deep flavor, well-developed umami notes, firm yet melting texture. This is what serious producers look for.
- 14-18 months (gran reserva): very intense and complex flavor, with notes reminiscent of cured ham or Parmesan cheese. Very firm, almost dry texture. It's not for all palates: some find it too intense. Canneries offering this curing time usually label it as "Gran Reserva" or "Long Curing."
Not all canneries indicate the curing time on the label, but those that do are usually proud of their process. If you see "minimum 12 months curing" or "Gran Reserva 18 months" on the label, it's a good sign.
Related products from Bacalalo
Type of oil: EVOO, virgin, or refined
The oil in which anchovies are packed is not just a preservative: it influences the final flavor of the product. There are three main types you'll find on labels:
- Extra virgin olive oil (EVOO): the highest quality. It provides fruity flavors and herbaceous notes that complement the anchovy without masking it. The best canneries use EVOO from mild varieties (Arbequina, Hojiblanca) so as not to compete with the anchovy's flavor.
- Virgin olive oil: one step below EVOO in quality. Good result, neutral to slightly fruity flavor. It is the most common in mid-to-high-end brands.
- Olive oil (refined + virgin): the most neutral in flavor. It doesn't add much but doesn't detract either. This is what economic brands use and, surprisingly, some artisanal houses that prefer the anchovy to be the absolute protagonist.
- Sunflower oil: avoid it. It's a sign of an economic product. Sunflower oil does not preserve as well as olive oil and can impart an unwanted aftertaste.
Can vs. glass jar
The eternal debate among anchovy lovers. Both formats have advantages, and neither is objectively better than the other.
Can
- Advantages: protects from light (which oxidizes the oil), stackable, safe transport, more durable.
- Disadvantages: you don't see the product until you open it. If the can is dented or the anchovy is of poor quality, you find out too late.
- Ideal for: blind purchase of trusted brands, gifts, long-term storage.
Glass jar
- Advantages: you see the product before buying it (color, size, fillet arrangement). You can visually assess the quality. Can be easily resealed.
- Disadvantages: light can oxidize the oil over time. More fragile. It is usually more expensive due to the packaging.
- Ideal for: demanding buyers who want to see what they are buying, serving directly at the table.
Our advice: if you already know and trust a brand, buy in a can (more practical and durable). If you are trying a new brand, opt for glass to visually assess the quality before purchasing.
How to read an anchovy label
The label on a jar or can of anchovies hides more information than it seems. Here's how to decipher it like a pro:
- "Elaborated in Santoña": This is what you want to see. It means that the entire process (salting, curing, filleting, packaging) has been done in Santoña. It is the most reliable denomination.
- "Cantabrian Anchovy": indicates that the anchovy was fished in the Cantabrian Sea, but the processing could be anywhere. It is a good sign but not enough on its own.
- "Santoña type" or "Santoña style": careful. It does not mean it is from Santoña. It's like saying "Manchego type cheese"—it imitates the style but does not have the same guarantees.
- Ingredients: ideally, you should only see "anchovy, salt, extra virgin olive oil." If artificial preservatives, colorants, or sunflower oil appear, the quality decreases.
- Net weight vs. drained weight: the important weight is the drained weight (anchovy only, without oil). A 50 g net can may only have 30-35 g of real anchovy.
- RGSEAA: the health registration number. You can look it up to verify that the cannery exists and is in Santoña.
Price ranges and what to expect
The price of Santoña anchovies varies enormously. Here's an approximate guide by quality range:
- Less than €3/small can (30-50g): probably not real Santoña, or it will be low quality. At this price, it's difficult to cover costs with artisanal products.
- €3-€6/can (50g): mid-range. Well-known supermarket brands. Decent quality, good for cooking and daily consumption. Size 1-2.
- €6-€12/can or jar (50-100g): high-end. Quality artisanal canneries. Large fillets (0-00), long curing, EVOO. Here you'll find anchovies worth eating on their own.
- €12-€25/jar (100-200g): premium range. Special selections, gran reserva, crystal packaging with impeccable presentation. For special occasions or as a gourmet gift.
Our advice: you don't always need the most expensive anchovy. A high-end anchovy (€6-€12) is enough to enjoy immensely. Save the premium ones for special occasions. And for cooking (sauces, pâtés), a mid-range works perfectly.
How to organize an anchovy tasting at home
An anchovy tasting is a fascinating and very simple gastronomic experience to organize. It's perfect for a gathering with foodie friends or for discovering your preferences before placing a large order.
What you need
- 3-5 different brands of anchovies (variety of prices and styles)
- Neutral white bread (baguette or plain crystal bread without strong flavors)
- Still mineral water (to cleanse the palate between samples)
- Numbered small plates for each brand
- Pen and paper to jot down impressions
How to do it
- Take the anchovies out of the fridge 15 minutes before.
- Place 2-3 fillets of each brand on a numbered small plate. Do not reveal the brands until the end (blind tasting).
- Visually evaluate each sample: color (ideal coppery pink), size, uniformity, presence of bones or skin.
- Smell: a good anchovy smells of clean sea, curing, umami. A bad one smells rancid, of ammonia, or like the can.
- Taste: first alone, without bread. Note the texture (firm but melting), the salt (intense but clean), the flavor (umami, depth, aftertaste). Then, try on bread.
- Cleanse the palate with water and a piece of bread between samples.
- Write down your impressions and at the end reveal the brands. You'll be surprised what you discover!
Discover our selection of Cantabrian anchovies at Bacalalo, ideal for your first tasting.
Mistakes when buying anchovies
- Buying only by brand: the most famous brands are not always the best. Many small artisanal canneries produce anchovies superior to large commercial brands.
- Ignoring the best-before date: canned anchovies last for years, but they change over time. A freshly packed anchovy has a firmer texture and cleaner flavor than one from 3 years ago.
- Storing them incorrectly after opening: leftover fillets should be placed in a glass container covered with olive oil, in the refrigerator. Leaving them in the open can oxidizes and dries them out.
- Not tasting before serving guests: always open a test can before an event. If the quality of that batch is not convincing, you have time to find an alternative.
- Confusing anchovy with boquerón: they are the same fish but completely different products. If you want to understand the difference, we explain it in detail.
Conclusions
- Why does choosing well matter?: Not all Santoña anchovies are created equal.
- Anchovy sizes: from 00 to 2: Anchovies are classified by fillet size.
- Curing time: 6, 12, or 18 months: Salt curing is the process that transforms fresh anchovies into anchovies.
- Type of oil: EVOO, virgin, or refined: The oil in which anchovies are packed is not just a preservative: it influences the final flavor of the product.
- Can vs. glass jar: The eternal debate among anchovy lovers.
Frequently Asked Questions
What are the best brands of Santoña anchovies?
There is no universal "best"—it depends on your preferences. Generally, small artisanal canneries in Santoña (with long curing and manual filleting) tend to offer better quality than large industrial brands. The best way to discover your favorite is to organize a blind tasting with 3-5 different brands.
Is it worth paying more than €10 for a can?
If you're going to eat them on their own (on toast, as an appetizer), yes. The difference between a €4 anchovy and a €12 one is enormous in flavor, texture, and enjoyment. If you're going to cook with them (sauces, pasta), a mid-range (€4-€6) is sufficient.
Canned anchovies or jarred anchovies?
Can for brands you already know (protects from light, more practical). Jar for new brands (you see the quality before buying) and for serving directly at the table. How to read an anchovy label The label on a jar or can of anchovies hides more information than it seems.
What does "00" mean for anchovies?
It's the size classification. 00 are the largest fillets (10-12 cm), hand-selected from the largest anchovies. They are the most expensive and prized. After that come 0, 1, and 2 (from largest to smallest).
Do Santoña anchovies have a DO or PGI?
They do not have an official European Designation of Origin (as other products do). There is the "Sobao Pasiego" brand as a PGI in Cantabria, but anchovies do not have similar protection. The label "Elaborated in Santoña" is the most reliable reference.
How many anchovies come in a can?
It depends on the size. A 50g can (drained weight ~30g) contains 6-8 medium fillets (size 1). A 100g can contains 12-16 fillets. Large cans of 200-250g contain 25-40 fillets. For an appetizer, count 3-4 fillets per person.
Are supermarket anchovies from Santoña?
Some are, some aren't. Read the label: look for "Elaborated in Santoña" (not "Santoña type"). Supermarket brands are usually industrial with short curing times. For superior quality, look for artisanal canneries in gourmet stores or specialized online stores.
