Lettuce hearts with anchovies: the perfect tapa with vinaigrette

Summary: Little gem lettuces with anchovies are one of the most iconic tapas of Navarre and La Rioja cuisine, having transcended borders to become a classic in bars and restaurants throughout Spain. The concept is simple—tender, crunchy little gem lettuces topped with anchovy fillets and dressed with a robust vinaigrette—but the result is extraordinarily elegant and satisfying.

Content

• Little gem lettuces with anchovies: the tapa that conquered Spain
• Tudela Little Gem Lettuce: the star lettuce
• Ingredients
• Step-by-step recipe
• The vinaigrette: the soul of the dish
• Variations and creative versions
• Grilled little gem lettuces with anchovies
• Pairing and accompaniments
• Frequently asked questions
• Conclusions

Little gem lettuces with anchovies: the tapa that conquered Spain

Little gem lettuces with anchovies are one of the most iconic tapas of Navarre and La Rioja cuisine, having transcended borders to become a classic in bars and restaurants throughout Spain. The concept is simple—tender, crunchy little gem lettuces topped with anchovy fillets and dressed with a robust vinaigrette—but the result is extraordinarily elegant and satisfying.

This tapa proves that the simplest cooking is often the best. There's no complicated technique, no rare ingredients: just top-quality produce well combined. A good Tudela little gem lettuce, quality Cantabrian anchovies, and a well-balanced vinaigrette. Three elements that together create something far superior to the sum of their parts.

In northern Spain, ordering little gem lettuces with anchovies is as natural as ordering patatas bravas in Madrid. They are served as a tapa, as a starter in tasting menus, as a side dish for meats and fish, or even as a main course for a light summer lunch. At Bacalalo, we believe it's the best way to show that a good appetizer doesn't need to be complicated: it needs good produce.

Tudela Little Gem Lettuce: the star lettuce

The Tudela little gem lettuce is a variety of romaine lettuce cultivated in the Ribera region of Navarre, specifically in the Tudela area. It is harvested when it is still small and compact, before the plant develops large outer leaves. The result is a dense, very crunchy little gem, with a slightly bitter and sweet flavor at the same time, and a texture that perfectly holds dressing without wilting.

What distinguishes Tudela little gem lettuce from other lettuces is its density and crunchiness. While an iceberg lettuce is watery and a large romaine is fibrous, the Tudela little gem has the perfect balance: juicy but not watery, crunchy but not hard, flavorful but not bitter. This is why chefs throughout Spain prefer it for this tapa.

If you can't find Tudela little gem lettuces, you can use small romaine lettuce hearts (sometimes simply labeled "little gem lettuces" in supermarkets). It won't be exactly the same, but it's close. What we do not recommend is using iceberg or Batavian lettuce: they do not have the right flavor or texture for this dish.

Ingredients

For 4 people

• 4 Tudela little gem lettuces (or romaine lettuce hearts)
• 8-12 fillets of Cantabrian anchovies in olive oil
• 4 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons of Sherry vinegar (or white wine vinegar)
• 1 clove of finely minced garlic (optional)
• Salt (a little, anchovies are already salty)
• Freshly ground black pepper

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Step-by-step recipe

1. Prepare the little gem lettuces: remove any unsightly or damaged outer leaves. Cut each little gem in half lengthwise. Wash them briefly under the tap and dry them very well with a clean cloth or salad spinner. Residual water dilutes the vinaigrette and ruins the texture.
2. Prepare the vinaigrette: in a small bowl, mix the olive oil with the Sherry vinegar, minced garlic (if using), a pinch of salt, and pepper. Whisk with a fork until slightly emulsified. Taste and adjust: it should be balanced between acidic and oily.
3. Assemble the dish: arrange the little gem halves on a platter (face up or face down, as you prefer—face up is more classic as it shows the leaf structure). Place 2-3 anchovy fillets on each little gem half.
4. Dress: drizzle the vinaigrette over the little gem lettuces and anchovies. Make sure it reaches all the leaves. If some vinaigrette remains at the bottom of the platter, it's fine: the outer leaves will absorb it.
5. Serve immediately: little gem lettuces with anchovies should be served freshly dressed so that the lettuce maintains its crispness. If you leave them dressed for more than 15-20 minutes, the leaves will start to wilt.

The vinaigrette: the soul of the dish

The vinaigrette is what binds the little gem lettuce with the anchovy and defines the character of the dish. A bland vinaigrette turns little gem lettuces into a mediocre salad; a well-made vinaigrette elevates them to a star dish.

Classic vinaigrette (Sherry vinegar)

The classic Spanish ratio is 3:1 (oil:vinegar). Use Sherry vinegar for a rounder, less acidic flavor than wine vinegar. Sherry vinegar has notes of dried fruit and wood that pair perfectly with anchovy.

Vinaigrette with Pedro Ximénez reduction

For a more elegant version, substitute Sherry vinegar with a Pedro Ximénez wine reduction: heat 100 ml of PX over medium heat until reduced by half and thick like syrup. Let it cool and use it instead of vinegar. The sweet-salty contrast with the anchovy is spectacular.

Mustard vinaigrette

Add a teaspoon of Dijon mustard to the classic vinaigrette. Mustard emulsifies the vinaigrette better (it doesn't separate) and adds a subtle spiciness that complements the anchovy.

Variations and creative versions

With piquillo peppers

Add strips of canned piquillo peppers over the little gem lettuces, along with the anchovies. The sweetness of the piquillo balances the saltiness of the anchovy. It's the most popular variation in La Rioja bars.

With sun-dried tomatoes or cherry tomatoes

Distribute halved cherry tomatoes or rehydrated sun-dried tomato strips among the anchovies. The acidity of the tomato adds another dimension to the dish. In summer, with ripe garden cherry tomatoes, it's an unbeatable starter.

With marinated anchovies (boquerones en vinagre)

The "marriage" on little gem lettuce: place an anchovy and a marinated anchovy (boquerón en vinagre) on each little gem half. The contrast between cured and vinegared is addictive and very typical of the Basque Country.

With quail egg

Fry quail eggs (or boil them and cut them in half) and place them on the little gem lettuces with the anchovies. The runny yolk of the fried egg creates a natural sauce that mixes with the vinaigrette.

Grilled little gem lettuces with anchovies

This modern variation has conquered restaurants throughout Spain. Instead of serving the little gem lettuce raw, it is given a quick sear on a griddle or grill, which caramelizes the outer leaves without losing the inner crispness. The result is a more complex flavor: sweet from the caramelization, bitter from the lettuce, and salty from the anchovy.

How to grill little gem lettuces

1. Cut the little gem lettuces in half lengthwise.
2. Brush them with olive oil on the cut side.
3. Heat a griddle or cast-iron skillet over high heat until it smokes.
4. Place the little gem lettuces face down (cut side against the griddle).
5. Cook for 90 seconds-2 minutes WITHOUT MOVING. You want caramelization marks.
6. Remove and arrange on the plate with anchovies and vinaigrette on top.

The trick is high temperature and short cooking time: you want to caramelize the surface but keep the inside crunchy and fresh. If the griddle isn't hot enough, the little gem lettuce will steam and wilt instead of caramelizing.

Pairing and accompaniments

Little gem lettuces with anchovies are a salty and intense dish that calls for acidic and fresh drinks to balance the palate.

• Txakoli: the perfect pairing. A Basque white wine, very acidic, slightly effervescent. It cleanses the palate from the anchovy's salt like no other wine.
• Albariño: fresh, mineral, with citrus notes that complement the vinaigrette.
• Verdejo: fruitier, works well if the vinaigrette contains mustard or honey.
• Manzanilla or Fino: dry Sherry wines are classics with anchovies. Intense, saline, and with a sharp acidity.
• Navarre Rosé: the local rosé. Fresh, fruity, and with enough body not to be outmatched by the anchovy.
• Craft beer: a cold pilsner or witbier also works if you prefer beer.

For an informal meal or a summer snack, little gem lettuces with anchovies can be accompanied by a platter of Iberian cured meats, aged cheeses, olives, and breadsticks. It's an appetizer that fits perfectly in any context: from an informal terrace to a formal dinner. The key is that both the little gem lettuce and the anchovy are of high quality—you don't need anything else to shine.

Find the best anchovies for your little gem lettuces at Bacalalo.

Frequently asked questions

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