Summary: For years, a single appetizer has captured the essence of tradition in a bite on the tasting menus of the best Catalan restaurants: the brandada de bacallà sphere. A thin membrane that, upon first contact with the palate, releases a creamy brandada interior, smooth, lightly perfumed with garlic and olive oil, with all the flavor of quality cod.
Spherification is a avant-garde cooking technique associated with Ferran Adrià and El Bulli, but its principles are simple and, with the right ingredients, reproducible in a home kitchen. You don't need chemistry training or a laboratory: just a little patience, the right additives, and a well-made cod brandada.
In this article, we explain the complete technique for making brandada de bacallà spheres: the professional version with sodium alginate and the simplified homemade version with agar-agar. And, for those who prefer to avoid additives completely, we include alternatives that achieve a similar effect with conventional techniques.
At Bacalalo, since 1990 in Barcelona's Mercat del Ninot, we have been selecting the cod that makes these preparations possible: pieces with the right texture and fat content to ensure a creamy, yet not heavy, brandada.
Contents
- What is brandada de bacallà and why is it perfect for spheres?
- The science of spherification: how it works
- Brandada de bacallà: an essential base
- Professional version: spheres with sodium alginate
- Simplified home version: spheres with agar-agar
- Presentation and serving
- Alternatives without spherification: the same effect with simple techniques
- Cod matters: why the raw material defines the brandada
What is brandada de bacallà and why is it perfect for spheres?
Brandada (or cod brandada) is a traditional Provençal and Catalan emulsion that combines desalted cod, olive oil and, in the Catalan version, cooked potato. The result is a creamy preparation, similar in texture to a very smooth purée but with the distinct personality of cod as the absolute protagonist.
This texture is precisely what makes it a perfect candidate for spherification. The brandada has the necessary density and cohesion to remain within a gel membrane, and its flavor is intense enough that even a small 15-20 gram sphere makes a complete bite.
The brandada sphere is usually served as a single-bite appetizer, at room temperature or slightly warm, on a Chinese spoon or on a small plate with a drizzle of olive oil and chopped parsley.
The science of spherification: how it works
Basic spherification uses two ingredients: sodium alginate (a natural polysaccharide extracted from seaweed) and calcium chloride. When alginate comes into contact with calcium, it forms a gel membrane. The technique involves submerging small portions of the food with alginate in a calcium chloride bath: the exterior solidifies, forming a layer while the interior remains liquid.
For brandada, which has a neutral pH and a dense texture, basic spherification works well: mix the alginate into the brandada and bathe it in calcium chloride.
Sodium alginate can be bought in creative cooking stores, specialized herbalists, or large supermarkets with an advanced pastry section. Its price is affordable, and a small amount yields many preparations.
Alternative with agar-agar: Agar-agar is a natural gelling agent obtained from red algae, with no flavor of its own and sold in any herbalist and many supermarkets. It doesn't give exactly the same result as alginate (the membrane is more solid, not as thin), but it is easier to obtain and use, and the visual effect is very similar.
Brandada de bacallà: an essential base
Before making the spheres, we need a perfect brandada. This is the base recipe we use at Bacalalo:
Ingredients for the brandada (6 people as an appetizer)
- 400 g desalted cod (loin, skinless and boneless)
- 2 medium potatoes (approx. 300 g), peeled and diced
- 4 cloves of garlic
- 200 ml extra virgin olive oil (mild, not too intense in flavor)
- 100 ml warm whole milk
- Salt and white pepper to taste
Preparation of the brandada
1. Cook the potatoes: Cook the diced potatoes in salted water until completely soft (about 15-18 minutes). Drain and set aside.
2. Confit the cod: In a small saucepan, place the olive oil with the peeled whole garlic cloves. Heat over very low heat (no more than 65°C: the oil should not bubble). Add the cod and keep it in the hot oil for 15 minutes. The cod will cook gently and remain extremely juicy. Remove the cod and reserve the oil with the garlic.
3. Shred the cod: With your fingers, shred the confit cod, removing any remaining bones or skin. The cod should be in fine flakes.
4. Emulsify: In a bowl or with an immersion blender, mix the shredded cod with the cooked potato. Add the reserved oil (with the garlic, which you can blend or remove as preferred) little by little, as if making mayonnaise. Alternate with the warm milk. The goal is to achieve a creamy and homogeneous emulsion.
5. Adjust: Taste and correct for salt (remember that cod already adds salt) and white pepper. The brandada should be creamy but firm, maintaining some consistency: not liquid.
Set aside the brandada and let it cool completely before making the spheres. When hot, it is too liquid to work with.
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Professional version: spheres with sodium alginate
Materials needed
- 500 g cold cod brandada
- 2.5 g sodium alginate powder
- 500 ml mineral water (still)
- 2.5 g calcium chloride
- Kitchen syringe or small dosing spoons
- Deep container for the bath
- Slotted spoon or fine mesh strainer
Step-by-step process
1. Prepare the calcium chloride bath: Dissolve 2.5 g of calcium chloride in 500 ml of mineral water. Mix well until completely dissolved. Set aside in a deep, wide container.
2. Add alginate to the brandada: Mix the sodium alginate into the cold brandada with an immersion blender. It's important to integrate it well and without lumps. Let the mixture rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator so that the alginate hydrates completely and air bubbles disappear.
3. Form the spheres: Load the syringe or use a small dosing spoon. Drop portions of alginate brandada into the calcium chloride bath from a low height, with a smooth, rounded motion. You will see a membrane immediately form upon contact with the bath.
4. Bath time: Leave the spheres in the bath for 1 to 3 minutes. Less time = thinner membrane and more liquid interior. More time = thicker membrane and more solid effect. For appetizers, 1.5-2 minutes is the ideal point.
5. Rinse: Remove the spheres with a slotted spoon and pass them through a bowl of clean mineral water to remove the calcium chloride from the outside, which has a bitter taste.
6. Serve immediately or store: The spheres can be stored in mineral water for 2-3 hours without deteriorating. After that time, the membrane continues to gel, and the interior loses its liquid texture.
Simplified home version: spheres with agar-agar
This version does not require alginate or calcium chloride. It uses agar-agar and cold oil to gel. The membrane is thicker and firmer (without the liquid interior effect), but the result is very visually appealing and delicious. Ideal for making at home without special additives.
Materials needed
- 400 g cod brandada
- 2 g agar-agar powder
- 400 ml sunflower oil (very cold, in the freezer for at least 2 hours)
- Kitchen syringe or small spoons
Process
1. Chill the oil: Place the sunflower oil in the freezer for at least 2 hours beforehand. It should be very cold but not frozen.
2. Dissolve the agar-agar: Heat the brandada in a saucepan over low heat until it is warm (not hot). Add the agar-agar powder and mix well. Bring to a gentle boil, stirring constantly for 2 minutes. The agar-agar needs to reach 85°C to activate.
3. Let cool slightly: Remove from heat and let cool until the mixture is about 60-65°C. It should still be liquid but on its way to gelling.
4. Form the spheres: Take the cold oil out of the freezer. With the syringe or a small spoon, drop warm brandada into the cold oil from a certain height. Upon contact with the cold oil, the brandada solidifies into a sphere.
5. Collect and drain: Collect the spheres with a slotted spoon and pat them dry with absorbent paper to remove the oil.
6. Serve: These spheres are served cold or at room temperature. They do not have a liquid interior, but they have a very pleasant compact and creamy texture.
Presentation and serving
Brandada spheres are, above all, a visually striking appetizer. To present them:
Classic restaurant style: Three spheres on a Chinese spoon, a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil, a few flakes of Maldon salt, and finely chopped parsley. Clean, elegant, impressive.
Shot glass version: Place two or three spheres in a small shot glass with a base of olive oil and a few drops of balsamic glaze.
On a cream base: A mirror of leek cream or shrimp bisque, with the spheres floating on top. For a more elaborate starter.
With toasted bread: Serve the spheres on a thin slice of toasted crystal bread. The diner can eat the whole sphere, and the bread acts as a support.
Alternatives without spherification: the same effect with simple techniques
If spherification seems too technical for a dinner at home, here are two alternatives that achieve a similar effect:
Brandada quenelles: Using two tablespoons, form oval quenelles of brandada and serve them on a bed of sauce. The result is elegant without any technical complications.
Brandada croquettes: The most popular and simplest version. Cold brandada formed into cylinders, breaded in flour, egg, and panko (or breadcrumbs), then fried in hot oil. The croquette is Grandma's sphere: same creamy interior, same contrasting temperature, same satisfaction.
Brandada tartare: Brandada plated with the help of a kitchen ring, slightly warmed, with a thin slice of smoked cod on top. Sophisticated and without special technique.
Frequently Asked Questions about Brandada de Bacallà Spheres
Is sodium alginate safe to eat?
Yes. Sodium alginate (E-401) is a food additive approved by EFSA (European Food Safety Authority) and the FDA. It is natural, obtained from seaweed, and has been used in the food industry for decades. It is also suitable for vegans and people with gluten intolerance.
Where can I buy sodium alginate and calcium chloride?
In creative cooking stores (e.g., The Healthy Factory, Albert y Ferran Adrià Gastronomia), on Amazon, from Sosa Ingredients (professional supplier with online sales), and in some large health food stores.
How long do the spheres last?
Alginate spheres can be kept in mineral water for up to 2-3 hours before the membrane continues to gel and they lose their liquid interior. Agar-agar spheres last 24 hours in the refrigerator.
Can I make brandade without potato?
Yes. The classic Provençal version does not contain potato: only cod, olive oil, garlic, and sometimes milk. The result is more intense and more compact. For spheres, the version with potato is easier to work with because it is more stable.
Does the cod for the brandade need to be very desalted?
Yes. Brandade concentrates the flavor of the cod, so an excess of salt is much more noticeable than in other preparations. Desalt the cod for 48 hours in the refrigerator, changing the water every 12 hours, and always taste a piece before cooking.
Can I make the spheres in advance for a dinner party?
Alginate spheres: maximum 2-3 hours, stored in mineral water in the refrigerator. Agar-agar spheres: up to the day before, stored covered in the refrigerator. Take the agar-agar spheres out of the refrigerator 20 minutes before serving.
Can you spherify brandade without potato (more liquid)?
Yes, but it requires more alginate (3g per 500g of brandade instead of 2.5g) to compensate for the lower density. It is also more difficult to work with the syringe because it tends to come out more liquid.
What temperature should the spheres be at when serving?
Room temperature or slightly warm (40-45°C). If served cold from the refrigerator, the interior of the brandade is too cold and the texture loses creaminess. If heated too much, the membrane breaks.
Can I make the brandade with smoked cod?
Yes, and the result is surprising. Smoked cod adds a hint of smoke that complements the olive oil and potato. Mix half desalted cod and half smoked cod for a complex flavor profile without the smoke dominating.
Can the spheres withstand handling when serving?
Alginate spheres are delicate: they break if pressed. Always use a slotted spoon or soft tongs to move them. Agar-agar spheres are more resistant and can withstand handling better.
Can I make a gluten-free and lactose-free version?
The base brandade is gluten-free. To make it lactose-free, substitute the milk with the cod cooking water (the water in which you confited the cod has all the flavor without the lactose). The result is just as creamy.
Why do the spheres have a "tail" instead of being round?
Because the mixture falls from too high or too quickly. Practice with the syringe at a low height and slow movement. It could also be that the brandade is too cold and too thick: warm it slightly before loading the syringe.
The Cod Matters: Why Raw Material Defines Brandade
A cod brandade is only as good as the cod it's made from. Low-quality cod, with excessive salt, fibrous texture, or a rancid taste, will produce a brandade that no technique can save.
At Bacalalo, since 1990 in Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona, we personally select the pieces that go into our store. For a brandade intended for spheres, we recommend the upper loin: it has just the right amount of fat to emulsify well with the oil, the correct fiber to flake without falling apart, and a balanced flavor that requires no corrections.
You can buy our desalted cod at bacalalo.com with cold chain delivery throughout Spain. If you have any doubts about the most suitable format for brandade, consult us: we have been helping chefs and amateurs for decades to find the exact cod they need.
The brandade sphere is an impressive dish. With the right cod and a little practice, it is within reach of any kitchen.
