Summary: There are dishes that define a cuisine. Esqueixada de bacallà —or cod esqueixada, in Spanish— is one of them. It is the quintessential Catalan summer dish: no cooking, no heat, no technical complications. Just perfectly desalted shredded cod, fresh raw vegetables, olives, and an honest olive oil and vinegar dressing.
What esqueixada demands, more than any other cod preparation, is respect for time. Desalting has no shortcuts: the cod needs the hours it needs to lose salt uniformly and acquire that silky texture that makes the dish work. Poorly desalted cod ruins esqueixada more decisively than in any other recipe, because here the cod is not cooked: its flavor and texture are exactly what will reach the plate.
At Bacalalo, we have been working with cod in all its forms since 1990 at the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona. Esqueixada is one of the preparations that best demonstrates why the quality of the initial piece is everything.
Contents
- What is esqueixada de bacallà?
- History and tradition: esqueixada in Catalan cuisine
- The ingredients of esqueixada: classic vs. modern
- The key to the dish: perfectly desalted cod
- How to shred cod for esqueixada
- Complete preparation: step by step
- Esqueixada in Catalan gastronomy: when and how it is eaten
- The esqueixada dressing: the traditional vinaigrette
- Presentation tips
- Pairing: what to drink with esqueixada
- Why Bacalalo cod is ideal for esqueixada
What is esqueixada de bacallà?
Esqueixada (also spelled "esquexada") takes its name from the Catalan verb "esqueixar," which means to tear, shred, or separate into pieces with the hands. This is exactly what is done with the cod: instead of cutting it with a knife, it is shredded by hand following the natural muscle fibers. The result is irregular pieces with a silky texture that absorb the dressing differently from knife cuts.
Esqueixada is a cold dish. The cod is never cooked: it is consumed raw, only desalted. This is the characteristic that most surprises those unfamiliar with the dish and raises the most questions: is it safe to eat cod without cooking? Yes. The cod salting process (which can last weeks in industrial production or months in artisanal salting) eliminates the pathogens that necessitate cooking fresh fish. Salted cod is a cured product, not raw fish in the sense of sushi or ceviche.
History and tradition: esqueixada in Catalan cuisine
Esqueixada is a dish with centuries of history in Catalan cuisine. Its origin is directly linked to the presence of salted cod as a preserved food: Catalan sailors, who for centuries fished in the North Atlantic, knew dried and salted cod as one of the few foods that could last for months in ship holds.
On land, cod became the dish for meatless days, for farm workers' meals, for market and fair food. Esqueixada was the simplest way to prepare it in summer: without fire, with ingredients provided by the Mediterranean garden in July and August, and olive oil always present in the Catalan pantry.
The dish has documented presence in 19th-century Catalan cookbooks and in the gastronomic memories of Barcelona's great markets, including the Mercat del Ninot, where since 1890, salted fish stalls have played a central role in the life of the Eixample neighborhood.
Today, esqueixada remains a warm-weather dish, although it is prepared throughout the year. It appears on the menus of all traditional Catalan restaurants, at neighborhood festivals, and on the tables of families who keep Catalan cuisine alive.
The ingredients of esqueixada: classic vs. modern
The classic list
Traditional Catalan esqueixada is made with very few ingredients:
- Shredded desalted cod (the absolute protagonist)
- Ripe tomato (diced or chopped)
- Raw red bell pepper (in strips or cubes)
- Green bell pepper (in the most common version)
- Spring onion (or sweet onion, to soften)
- Black olives (Arbequina, Kalamata, or from Aragon)
- Extra virgin olive oil (generous)
- White wine vinegar (in moderation)
- Salt (very little, the cod already provides some)
Nothing more. Simplicity is the virtue of the dish.
Modern variations
Over time, esqueixada has incorporated variations that modernize it without betraying its essence:
With avocado: A ripe avocado diced adds creaminess and a touch of vegetable fat that softens the residual saltiness of the cod. It's the most popular version in recent years.
With smoked cod: Mixing half desalted cod and half smoked cod adds a smoky dimension that complements the olive oil.
With hard-boiled egg: In some more substantial versions, chopped hard-boiled egg is added to provide protein and soften the dish.
With orange: Orange segments or orange juice in the dressing provide sweetness and acidity different from vinegar. Popular in restaurant versions.
With green olives: In southern Catalonia, it is common to use green olives instead of black, or a mixture of both.
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The key to the dish: perfectly desalted cod
Desalting is the process that transforms salted cod (which cannot be eaten directly) into a product ready to consume or cook. For esqueixada, this process is even more critical than for other preparations because the cod does not undergo the heat of cooking, which would partially compensate for imperfect desalting.
How to desalt cod for esqueixada
What you need:- A large container with a lid (or cling film)
- Cold water
- The refrigerator (temperature between 4°C and 8°C)
- 36-48 hours of time
The process:
- Place the cod in the container with the skin facing up (salt falls by gravity, and thus dissolves more efficiently).
- Cover it completely with cold water.
- Put it in the refrigerator. Desalting should always be done in the cold to prevent the cod from fermenting.
- Change the water every 8-12 hours. For a loin 2-3 cm thick, 3 water changes in 36-48 hours is sufficient.
- After the third change, taste a small piece. It should taste like cod with a pleasant residual saltiness, not salty. If it is still very salty, another 8-hour soak with clean water.
The cold water trick: The water must always be cold. If the water temperature rises (in summer this can happen if you don't control the refrigerator), desalting accelerates unevenly, and the cod can be desalted on the outside but salty on the inside.
How many hours are enough?- Cod flakes or small pieces: 24 hours, 2-3 changes.
- Loin 1-2 cm thick: 36 hours, 3 changes.
- Thick loin 3-4 cm: 48 hours, 4 changes.
- Very thick or whole piece: 72 hours, with changes every 8 hours.
For esqueixada, it is recommended to use medium-thickness loins that will then be shredded. An overly thick loin desalted unevenly can result in a salty bite next to a unsalted one in the same dish.
How to shred cod for esqueixada
Shredding is the art of esqueixada. With a knife, the result is different: the fibers are cut instead of separated, the texture changes, and the dressing does not penetrate in the same way.
The shredding process:
- Make sure the cod is perfectly desalted and drained.
- Remove the skin (which separates easily when raw by pulling from one end).
- Remove all bones you can: run your fingers over the surface following the direction of the bones to detect them.
- With your fingers, separate the cod following the natural direction of the muscle fibers. Cod fibers are long and separate into flakes. Pull in the direction of the fiber, not against the grain.
- The pieces should be irregular: neither too large (difficult to eat) nor too small (they lose texture and fall apart with the dressing).
- Once shredded, set aside in a bowl while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.
Complete preparation: step by step
Ingredients for 4 people
- 500 g desalted cod (weight after desalting)
- 3 ripe medium branch or pear tomatoes
- 1 medium red bell pepper
- 1 Italian green bell pepper
- 1/2 small spring onion or sweet onion
- 100 g black olives (Arbequina or Kalamata)
- 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
- Salt to taste (very little)
- Chopped parsley (optional)
Preparation
1. The cod: Desalt 600-700 g of salted cod for 36-48 hours depending on thickness. Once desalted, drain well, remove skin and bones, and shred by hand into irregular pieces. Store in the refrigerator while you prepare the rest.
2. The tomato: Wash the tomatoes. If they have thick skin, peel them (submerging for 30 seconds in boiling water and then in cold water facilitates peeling). Cut them into irregular 1-2 cm cubes. You can drain some of the vegetable water before adding them to the bowl.
3. The bell peppers: Wash the bell peppers, remove the stem and seeds. Cut them into thin strips and then into small pieces. The raw bell pepper needs to be thin so it's not tough to bite into.
4. The onion: Finely chop the spring onion or sweet onion. If you are concerned that the onion will be too strong, soak it in cold water with a pinch of salt for 10 minutes and then drain it: it loses aggressiveness without losing flavor.
5. The olives: If they have pits, pit them or simply warn diners. Cut them in half or leave them whole as preferred.
6. The dressing: In a small bowl, mix the olive oil with the vinegar and a pinch of salt. Emulsify with a fork.
7. Assemble the esqueixada: In a large bowl, mix the shredded cod with the tomato, bell peppers, and onion. Add the olives. Pour the dressing over it and mix with gentle movements to avoid breaking the cod.
8. Rest: This step is optional but makes a difference. Let the esqueixada rest in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to 2 hours before serving. The dressing penetrates the cod, the flavors integrate, and the dish significantly improves.
9. Final adjustment: Before serving, taste and adjust for salt and vinegar. Add chopped parsley if using.
Esqueixada in Catalan gastronomy: when and how it is eaten
In the Catalan calendar
Esqueixada is the summer dish. It appears prominently on Catalan tables from June to September, when tomatoes and bell peppers are at their best. In the major festivals of Catalan towns, at club dinners, in the menus of fishing guilds, esqueixada always holds a central place among the starters.
During the Festa de Corpus, on Sant Joan's Eve, in calçotada menus (where it acts as a starter before the calçots), and on holidays on the Costa Daurada or Costa Brava, esqueixada invariably appears.
As a main course or a side dish
Esqueixada works perfectly as a light main course in summer: protein (cod), vegetables (tomato and pepper), good fat (olive oil), and carbohydrates if you add bread with tomato on the side. It also works as a starter in a longer meal or as an accompaniment to other fish dishes.
In restaurants vs. at home
In restaurants, esqueixada is usually presented more elaborately: with cod in more uniform pieces, peeled tomato in precise concassé, perfectly brunoise-cut pepper, and an emulsified dressing. At home, the rustic version with more generous cuts is perfectly valid and has its own charm.
The esqueixada dressing: traditional vinaigrette
The dressing for bacalao esqueixada is deliberately simple, because its function is to enhance the cod, not to mask it. The classic ratio is three parts extra virgin olive oil to one part white wine vinegar, with a pinch of salt (very little, because the cod already provides its own). It is emulsified with a fork until slightly thickened and poured over the dish at the last moment.
Regarding which vinegar to use: white wine vinegar is traditional for its clean acidity. Sherry vinegar provides more body and a winey note that works well in restaurant versions; use less of it because it is more intense. Avoid apple cider vinegar, too sweet for this dish.
Some chefs add a touch of freshly ground black pepper or a few drops of lemon juice to the dressing for freshness. What is never missing is quality olive oil: in an uncooked dish, the oil is noticeable in every bite. If you want more details about the starting ingredient, consult our selection of salted cod, the heart of any good esqueixada.
Serving suggestions
In a bowl or on a plate: A deep bowl allows for good mixing of the dressing when serving. A flat plate allows for a more careful presentation.
With tomato skin: If you don't peel the tomato, the skins can be bothersome when eating. Peeling is recommended for a neater presentation, although not essential.
Serving temperature: Esqueixada is served cold but not ice-cold. Take it out of the fridge 10-15 minutes before serving so the olive oil flows well.
Bread with tomato: Pa amb tomàquet is the natural accompaniment to esqueixada. Slices of toasted rustic bread, rubbed with ripe tomato and drizzled with oil, complete the dish impeccably.
Pairing: what to drink with esqueixada
Salted cod, vinegar, and olives call for drinks that cleanse the palate without overwhelming it.
White wine: A Xarel·lo from Penedès, an Albariño from Galicia, or a dry Macabeo. The acidity and lightness of white wine complement the freshness of the dish.
Cava brut: The perfect Catalan pairing for esqueixada. Fresh, with bubbles that cleanse the salt and acidity, festive.
Lager beer: For more informal versions, a cold lager beer is a working pairing, especially in the context of a summer meal.
Non-alcoholic: Sparkling water with lemon, or a natural unsweetened lemonade. Plain mineral water is also fine but does not cleanse the palate in the same way.
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Frequently asked questions about bacallà esqueixada
Is the cod in esqueixada raw?
The cod is not cooked, but it's not raw in the strict sense either. The cod has undergone a salting process that cures it and makes it safe to consume without cooking. It is a cured product, like ham or salami. The desalting process hydrates it and makes it ready to eat, but it does not reverse the curing.
How long should it be desalted?
It depends on the thickness. For medium-sized loins (2-3 cm thick): 36-48 hours in cold water in the refrigerator, changing the water every 8-12 hours. For thinner pieces or flakes: 24 hours with 2-3 changes are enough. It's best to taste a small piece: it should taste like cod with a pleasant hint of salt, not just salt.
Can esqueixada be made with canned cod?
It can, but the result is very different. Canned cod (in oil or natural) is already cooked, has a softer texture, and a milder flavor. Classic esqueixada uses desalted and raw salted cod. With canned cod, the resulting dish is more like a cod salad than a traditional esqueixada.
How long does esqueixada last in the fridge?
Esqueixada with all the dressing keeps for 24-36 hours in the refrigerator, covered. After 48 hours, the tomato starts to ferment, and the cod becomes too soft. If you want to prepare it in advance, store the ingredients separately and mix everything an hour before serving.
What's the difference between esqueixada and cod salad?
Esqueixada is the specific Catalan dish: hand-shredded raw cod, with tomato, pepper, onion, and olives. "Cod salad" is a generic term that can refer to many different preparations in different regions of Spain, some with cooked cod, others with potato, others without pepper. Esqueixada has a very precise identity and list of ingredients.
Can I make esqueixada with desalted frozen cod?
Yes. Desalted frozen cod, once thawed in the refrigerator, can be used directly for esqueixada without further desalting. Make sure it is well drained before shredding.
Does esqueixada use green or only red pepper?
The most widespread version in Catalonia uses both: red pepper and green pepper. Red adds sweetness and green more bitterness and freshness. In some versions in southern Catalonia (Tarragona, Terres de l'Ebre), only red pepper is used.
Why isn't my cod silky, but hard and fibrous?
There are two possible causes. First: desalting was not sufficient, and residual salt tightens the muscle fibers. Second: the loin is too thick, and the center has not hydrated well. In both cases, the solution is more soaking time and thinner cuts of cod before desalting.
Is garlic added to esqueixada?
In the classic version, no. Some chefs add half a finely chopped garlic clove to the dressing, but it's not traditional. If you decide to add it, do so in moderation: raw garlic can overpower the cod flavor.
What olive oil should I use for esqueixada?
Extra virgin olive oil, always. For esqueixada, a medium-mild flavored oil (Arbequina, Hojiblanca) is more balanced than a very intense one (Picual) which can mask the cod flavor. That said, if you have a quality oil with a pronounced flavor, use it: esqueixada appreciates it.
Can I add cooked potato to esqueixada?
Technically, yes, although it changes the character of the dish. Diced cold cooked potato adds starch that thickens the dressing and makes the dish more substantial. It is a variation from some inland areas of Catalonia.
Can esqueixada be made with smoked cod?
Yes, and it works very well as a modern variation. Desalted smoked cod (or pre-prepared ready-to-eat smoked cod) can be shredded directly. The smoking adds a flavor dimension that goes very well with tomato and olives. You can use half desalted cod and half smoked for an interesting balance.
How many calories does esqueixada have?
Esqueixada is a relatively light dish: approximately 280-320 kcal per serving, depending on the amount of oil. It is rich in protein (cod), B vitamins, and good fats from olive oil. It is an ideal dish for Mediterranean diets.
Is Catalan esqueixada the same as bacalao a la vizcaína?
They have nothing to do with each other. Bacalao a la vizcaína is a stew with a sauce of choricero peppers, onion, and tomato, served hot. Esqueixada is a cold, uncooked dish. They are two completely different preparations that share the main ingredient.
Is there esqueixada without olives?
The version without olives is valid, although olives provide bitterness and saltiness that balance the acidity of the vinegar and the sweetness of the tomato. If we omit them, the dish is milder. It is an option for those who do not tolerate olives or for lighter versions.
Why Bacalalo cod is ideal for esqueixada
In esqueixada, the cod cannot hide. There's no sauce, no cooking, no other dominant flavor to compete with it. It's the absolute protagonist of a dish where everything else acts as a complement.
That's why the starting quality is so crucially important. At Bacalalo, since 1990 at Barcelona's Mercat del Ninot, we personally select the pieces of cod that arrive at our shop: loins with just the right proportion of intramuscular fat that gives that creamy touch when flaked, firm but not dry meat, uniform color indicating correct salting.
For esqueixada, we recommend the upper loin (morro or centre de llom): the juiciest part and the easiest to flake into long, soft fibers. Quality flaked cod, well desalted, is what turns esqueixada into a memorable experience.
You can buy our cod at bacalalo.com with cold shipping throughout Spain. At Mercat del Ninot, you can also find us in person and ask us about the most suitable format for your esqueixada.
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