Summary: If you've seen a can of Cantabrian anchovies with the number "00" or "0" on the label in a gourmet store and wondered if it means something or is just marketing, this guide is for you.
The 0, 00, and 000 categories for Cantabrian anchovies are real, have specific classification criteria, and indicate appreciable differences in both price and culinary experience. At Bacalalo, we have been selecting top-quality anchovies at Barcelona's Mercat del Ninot since 1990, and the double-zero anchovy is one of the products that generates the most questions. Here are the answers.
Contents
The Anchovy Sizing Classification System
Cantabrian anchovies are classified by the number of fillets per kilogram. The fewer the fillets, the larger the fillet size. The larger the size, the higher the price per kilo.
| Category | Fillets per kilo | Fillet size |
|---|---|---|
| 000 (triple zero) | Less than 20-25 fillets/kg | Extra large |
| 00 (double zero) | Approx. 25-35 fillets/kg | Large |
| 0 (zero) | Approx. 35-50 fillets/kg | Large-medium |
| 1 | 50-70 fillets/kg | Medium |
| 2 | 70-90 fillets/kg | Medium-small |
| 3 and more | 90+ fillets/kg | Small |
Double zero (00) therefore represents a large fillet — among the largest categories commercially available — second only to triple zero (000) in size.
What Differentiates Category 00 from 000
This is the distinction that causes the most confusion, especially since we already published a guide on triple-zero anchovies. They are distinct categories, and the difference matters.
000 Anchovy (triple zero):- The largest fillets produced
- Very few units per kilo (generally 15-25 fillets)
- Highest price per kilo in the entire range
- Very scarce: not every year is there sufficient production of anchovies of this caliber
- Large fillets, second category in size
- More accessible than 000 in price and availability
- The "sweet spot" for many gourmets: high quality, a slightly more reasonable price than triple zero
- Available from more brands and in larger quantities
The organoleptic difference between a 000 and a 00 from the same cannery and the same year is real but subtle: the 000 has a bit more anchovy per fillet, a slightly meatier texture, and a somewhat deeper flavor. For most people, the 00 is already an excellent experience.
How Cantabrian Anchovies Are Made
The process for quality anchovies — whether 0, 00, or 000 — is the same in its fundamental steps. The category is determined by the size of the fish at the time of capture.
1. Seasonal Catch
Cantabrian anchovy (Engraulis encrasicolus) is fished between April and June in the Bay of Biscay. During this period, the anchovy is at its best: it comes to the coast to spawn, has accumulated fat during winter, and has maximum flavor. Outside this period, the anchovy does not have the same quality.
Fishing is done by purse seine, often at dawn, and the anchovies reach the port a few hours after being caught.
2. Heading and Gutting
In artisan canneries, heading and gutting are done by hand. This step is quick and critical: the intestine contains enzymes that degrade the flesh if not removed in time. Speed and precision at this point largely determine the final quality.
3. Layered Salting
The anchovies are arranged in alternating layers with sea salt. The containers (tubs or wooden barrels in more traditional canneries) are fully loaded and pressed. The salt partially dehydrates the fish, inhibits bacterial growth, and activates enzymes that transform proteins during maturation.
4. Maturation
This is the longest phase and the one that defines quality. Maturation lasts between 8 and 36 months, depending on the producer and category:
- Short-aged anchovies (8-12 months): milder, less developed flavor
- Medium-aged anchovies (12-18 months): the market standard for quality
- Long-aged anchovies (18-36 months): deeper flavor, more intense umami, firmer texture
During maturation, muscle enzymes break down proteins into free amino acids (glutamate, among others), generating the characteristic umami flavor of anchovy. The collagen in the skin softens, and the color changes from grey to mahogany. A well-matured anchovy is a completely different product from the fresh fish it started as.
5. Cleaning and Filleting
Once maturation is complete, the anchovies are removed from the salt, cleaned under water (removing external salt), filleted by hand separating the two loins, and bones and skin are removed. In artisan canneries, this work is done by workers with years of experience. Good filleting determines the final presentation.
6. Packaging in Oil
The fillets are placed in a tin or glass jar and covered with extra virgin olive oil (or sunflower oil in more economical ranges). In the best products, the oil is part of the experience: it absorbs some of the anchovy's flavor and becomes an extraordinary dressing.
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Organoleptic Differences: 00 vs. Smaller Categories
Why pay more for a double zero if a size 2 is also "Cantabrian anchovy"?
This is the legitimate question any rational buyer asks. The differences are real:
Texture: The 00 anchovy has a thicker, meatier fillet. When placed on the tongue, a different consistency is noted, more "anchovy flesh." A small fillet (size 2 or 3) is thinner, more delicate.
Flavor: Umami is present in all categories, but in larger sizes, it is more balanced and complex. A well-matured 00 fillet has salty notes, deep umami, and a long aftertaste. A smaller fillet may be more aggressively salty with less complexity.
Salt: Larger fillets have a lower surface/volume ratio, meaning that salt penetration is more gradual during maturation. Result: in general, larger sizes have a better balance between saltiness and anchovy flavor.
Presentation: On a plate, a 00 fillet has visual presence. On toast or in artisan gildas, the visual impact is part of the experience.
How to Eat 00 Anchovies
Simply on Toast
The best way to appreciate a good anchovy fillet: well-toasted sourdough bread, quality salted butter, two or three 00 anchovy fillets. If you want to add something: a few small capers or a pinch of Maldon salt flakes (be careful not to add more salt if the anchovy is already intense). A thin drizzle of olive oil from the same jar.
Nothing else. Let the anchovy speak for itself.
In a Gilda
A quality gilda uses large-sized anchovies. A 00 fillet folded over itself, skewered with a piparra pepper and an olive, creates a gilda that visually screams "quality" even before you eat it. See more in our guide to gourmet gildas.
In Salad
Large anchovies hold up better when mixed with other ingredients: bitter lettuces, seasonal tomatoes, red onion, black olives from Aragon. The 00 fillet doesn't break when mixed and adds structure to the salad.
In Pasta
In pasta sauces (aglio e olio with anchovies, puttanesca), large anchovies have more substance to dissolve and add flavor. Add to hot oil with garlic at the start of the recipe: it melts in seconds and creates an extraordinary umami base.
On Pizza
00 anchovies on pizza have more presence and withstand oven heat better. Always add at the end, after taking it out of the oven, to avoid overcooking.
At Bacalalo, we have a selection of Cantabrian anchovies in different sizes, including 00. If you are looking for the best anchovy for your dishes or simply to eat on its own, visit our online store or stop by the Mercat del Ninot.
Reference Brands for 00 Anchovies
Not all brands market categories 00 and 000. These categories are reserved for producers with access to large-sized anchovies and rigorous artisan processes.
Historical references from the Cantabrian Sea:- Nardin (Getaria, Basque Country): An absolute reference in artisan anchovies. Their 00 and 000 often have waiting lists in some seasons.
- Ortiz: The most internationally known brand. They have premium ranges with large sizes.
- Los Peperetes: Galician cannery with high-quality anchovies.
- La Brújula: Cannery from the Basque Country with artisan production.
- Hijos de Carlos Albo: Centuries-old cannery with a presence in premium categories.
- Artisan canneries from the Basque Country with limited production: these produce the best 00 and 000 of each season, though with less distribution.
At Bacalalo, we select anchovies based on real product quality, not just brand. If you have questions about what to buy, ask at the stand.
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Frequently Asked Questions about Cantabrian Anchovies 00
1. Is anchovy 00 better than 000? Not exactly: 000 is larger, but 00 is an excellent quality category. The price difference between 00 and 000 can be 30-60%, and the organoleptic difference is subtle. For many consumers, 00 offers the best balance between quality and price.
2. Why does the price of Cantabrian anchovies vary so much? Several factors: size (00 and 000 cost more), maturation time (longer time = more expensive), artisanal vs. industrial process, brand, year of production (years with smaller catches = more expensive). An artisanal 00 jar can cost 10-20 times more than a can of standard imported anchovies.
3. When is the season for Cantabrian anchovies? They are caught in spring (April-June). The preserves are released onto the market 8 to 36 months after capture, depending on the maturation time. A 00 anchovy caught in May might not reach the store until 1-3 years later.
4. Do Cantabrian anchovies have a designation of origin? There is a "Cantabrian Anchovy" guarantee mark in the Basque Country, but there is no PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) at a European level for this product. This means that the designation "del Cantábrico" can be used with some freedom, although the market recognizes and rewards authentic producers.
5. How many fillets are in a jar of 00 anchovies? It depends on the jar size and the drained net weight. In a 50g drained jar of category 00, there will be approximately 6-10 fillets, as each fillet is large and weighs 5-8g. In the same size with caliber 3, there would be 15-25 fillets.
6. Can the oil in the jar be used? Absolutely. The oil from a good jar of 00 anchovies is infused with umami and salty flavor. Use it to dress salads, add to pasta, or as a base for sauces. It is an ingredient in itself.
7. What happens to unused anchovies within their shelf life? Anchovies in oil, properly sealed, last 2-5 years. Once opened, store in the refrigerator covered with oil for up to 2-3 weeks. If the original oil has been used up, add additional olive oil to cover the fillets.
8. Do Cantabrian anchovies have a lot of sodium? Yes. It is a salted product: approximately 3,000-5,000mg of sodium per 100g. A serving of two or three fillets (15-25g) provides about 500-800mg of sodium. Those with sodium restrictions due to blood pressure or other reasons should consume them in moderation.
9. Are 00 anchovies suitable for cooking or just for eating alone? For both uses, although using them only for cooking (sauces, pasta, pizza) is "wasting" part of what you pay for. The difference in size matters less when the anchovy melts into a sauce. For that use, a caliber 1 or 2 offers the same result at a lower price.
10. How should canned anchovies be stored once opened? Transfer to a glass container, cover completely with olive oil, seal tightly, and refrigerate. Consume within 1-2 weeks. Do not leave in the original steel can once opened.
11. Can 00 anchovies be frozen? It is not recommended. The texture degrades with freezing: the fillets lose firmness and become soft when thawed. Preservation in oil is the optimal storage method for this product.
12. Where can I buy 00 Cantabrian anchovies in Barcelona? At Bacalalo, in the Mercat del Ninot, we have a selection of Cantabrian anchovies in different sizes. Also on our online store with shipping throughout Spain.
At Bacalalo, we have been selecting top-quality anchovies at the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona since 1990. Double zero anchovies are one of our flagship products: for those who want the best of Spanish seafood preserves. Discover our selection of Cantabrian anchovies.
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