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The classic gilda is perfect, but the cheese gilda is an evolution that many consider even better. In this guide: Why cheese works so well in the gilda, What cheese to use for cheese gildas, How to cut cheese for gildas.
The classic gilda is perfect, but the cheese gilda is an evolution that many consider even better. At Bacalalo, we have been making our artisanal gildas for years with Cantabrian anchovies and boquerones and selected aged cheese, and the response from our customers at Mercat del Ninot is always the same: they come back for more. This guide explains why cheese works so well, what varieties to choose, and how to assemble them at home for a pintxos bar-like result.
Why Cheese Works So Well in a Gilda
The classic gilda plays with three very defined flavor profiles: the salty umami of the anchovy, the acidic and slightly spicy kick of the piparra, and the neutral fat of the olive. Three ingredients that balance each other perfectly.
Aged cheese enters this balance in a way that feels natural from the first bite. Its fat envelops the salt of the anchovy and softens the acidity of the chili pepper, creating an intermediate layer that makes the ensemble more rounded and easier to eat. At the same time, a good aged cheese provides its own umami — the tyrosine crystals that form during maturation have an intensity very similar to the glutamate in anchovies — which enhances the overall flavor without dominating it.
The result is a more robust gilda, with more nuances and a longer-lasting finish on the palate. In short, it is a gilda that is less saturating if several are eaten in a row, precisely because the fat in the cheese regulates the perception of salt.
At Bacalalo, we include cheese as a standard ingredient in our artisanal gildas because the customer reaction was so positive from the beginning that we had no doubts. Today, it is the best-selling version in our store.
What Cheese to Use for Cheese Gildas
Not all cheeses work. The selection depends on the texture (it must be able to be skewered without breaking), the intensity of flavor (it must stand up to the anchovy without being overshadowed), and the fat content (neither too dry nor too moist).
Aged Manchego: the most reliable classic
Aged Manchego is the most common choice and the one that consistently works best. With 6 to 12 months of aging, it has a firm texture that perfectly holds up to skewering, a sheep's milk flavor with notes of toasted butter, and a balanced fat content that complements without dominating the anchovy.
The optimal point is Manchego aged between 9 and 12 months. Young or semi-cured cheese has too much moisture and tends to crumble. Aged cheese over 18 months can be too dry and have a bitterness that competes with the chili pepper.
Smoked Idiazábal: the Basque option
If you want to maintain the San Sebastián spirit of the gilda, smoked Idiazábal is the most consistent choice. This sheep's milk cheese from the Latxa sheep of the Basque Country and Navarre has a natural and subtle smoky flavor that adds an aromatic layer that no other cheese possesses.
Its texture is slightly softer than aged Manchego but equally manageable. The flavor is more complex, with smoky notes that interact very well with the umami of the anchovy. It is the most sophisticated variant of cheese gildas.
Semi-cured Goat Cheese: the lighter option
For those who prefer a less intense profile, semi-cured goat cheese is an interesting alternative. It has a natural acidity that enhances that of the piparra, a creamier texture than the previous ones, and a lighter flavor that accompanies rather than competes with the anchovy.
The difficulty lies in finding the right curing point: too fresh it falls apart, too aged it can be excessively acidic. A semi-cured goat cheese aged between 2 and 3 months is usually optimal.
Cabrales or another blue cheese: for extreme umami lovers
Cabrales is the most daring option. Its intensity is so high that it only works in small quantities and with top-quality anchovies that can withstand the comparison. The result is an umami explosion that is not for all palates, but those who appreciate it describe it as one of the best combinations they have ever tasted.
The technical difficulty is the assembly: Cabrales has a brittle texture that makes skewering difficult. The solution is to make small compact balls with a spoon and wrap them in cling film for 30 minutes in the refrigerator before using them. This gives them enough firmness to be skewered without breaking.
Cheeses that don't work in gildas
Fresh cheeses (mozzarella, ricotta, Burgos cheese) are incompatible with the gilda format: their high moisture content causes them to fall apart when skewered and release whey that alters the overall flavor. Cream cheese or spreadable cheeses are also unsuitable for the same reasons. Burrata, although delicious, cannot be skewered. Industrial processed cheeses are completely ruled out: their artificial flavor profile clashes badly with a quality anchovy.
How to Cut Cheese for Gildas
The cheese cut influences the final experience. The goal is to obtain a cube or slice that can be skewered without breaking, takes up a reasonable space on the skewer, and can be eaten in one bite along with the other ingredients.
For Manchego and Idiazábal, cubes approximately 1.5 x 1.5 x 1 cm are ideal. This size allows them to be skewered easily, they don't crush the toothpick, and they are comfortable to eat. Cutting them smaller makes them get lost in the ensemble; larger ones visually dominate and are difficult to eat.
Another option is the slice format: cut the cheese into slices 3-4 mm thick and then fold them over themselves before skewering. This format looks great visually, and the anchovy is partially wrapped in the cheese when eaten.
For goat cheese, slicing 1 cm thick rounds directly from the log is the simplest way. A clean cut with dental floss or a knife dipped in hot water prevents the cheese from cracking.
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Step-by-step recipe: gildas with cheese
Ingredients for 12 gildas with cheese
- 12 Cantabrian anchovies in olive oil (00 caliber)
- 12 gordal or Manzanilla olives, pitted
- 12 piparras in vinegar (Basque chili peppers)
- 150 g aged cheese (Manchego, Idiazábal, or semi-cured goat cheese)
- 12 long wooden toothpicks
- Extra virgin olive oil for finishing
Step-by-step
- Prepare the cheese: cut into approximately 1.5 cm cubes or folded slices. If using blue cheese, make compact balls with a spoon and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
- Prepare the anchovies: drain them from the oil on absorbent paper for 2 minutes.
- Assemble: skewer the piparra in an S-shape from the thicker end. Add the olive in the center. Skewer the cheese cube next. Finish with the anchovy rolled onto itself at the end of the toothpick.
- Finish: arrange the gildas on the serving plate and add a few drops of extra virgin olive oil. Serve at room temperature.
The cheese is placed between the olive and the anchovy so that it is protected from the moisture of the piparra (which could soften it) and in direct contact with the anchovy, with which it harmonizes best.
Bacalalo's Cheese Gildas: What Makes Them Different
At Bacalalo, we didn't invent the cheese gilda, but we have perfected it over years of working with the best Cantabrian anchovy producers and searching for the cheese that works best with them.
The difference starts with the anchovy. We work exclusively with 00 caliber anchovies, cured in salt for more than twelve months, and packed in extra virgin olive oil. This is the anchovy that has the texture, flavor, and fat necessary to support any variation.
The cheese we use in our artisanal gildas is selected in batches, evaluating texture and curing point before incorporating it. It's not always from the same producer: we seek the best of each season.
The result is a gilda that can be bought already assembled in our Mercat del Ninot store or through our online store of gildas and appetizers, ready to serve directly.
When to Serve Cheese Gildas
Cheese gildas are more versatile than they seem. Their robustness makes them ideal in situations where the classic gilda might be too light as the sole appetizer.
Appetizer before eating: 2-3 cheese gildas per person are enough to whet the appetite without over-satiating. They are perfect before a paella, a stew, or any robust main course.
Catering and events: they work very well at standing buffets because they are easy to eat in one bite and don't make a mess. At corporate events or weddings, cheese gildas are always a hit.
Christmas and celebrations: the combination of anchovy and aged cheese has the flavor profile associated with a good Christmas meal. They are appetizers that communicate quality without needing explanation.
Appetizer platter: including cheese gildas on a platter alongside cured meats, preserves, and bread with tomato makes them immediate protagonists. They hold up well at room temperature for an hour without losing quality.
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Frequently Asked Questions About Cheese Gildas
Can the cheese in the gilda be replaced with vegan cheese?
Technically yes, although the result varies greatly depending on the vegan cheese. Cashew-based aged vegan cheeses can have a texture that works. Industrial plastic-profile cheeses add nothing to the ensemble. If using vegan cheese, look for one with good aging and its own distinct flavor.
Do cheese gildas last as long as classic gildas?
Slightly less. The cheese begins to dry out and lose texture after 6-8 hours of being assembled. For classic gildas, that period is 24-48 hours. Ideally, assemble cheese gildas on the same day of consumption, a maximum of 4-5 hours before, stored in the refrigerator covered with cling film.
How much cheese per gilda?
A 1.5 cm cube per gilda is the balanced proportion. More cheese dominates the anchovy; less is not perceived in the ensemble. In the folded slice format, a 3-4 mm thick slice is approximately equivalent to the same volume.
Can a cheese gilda be made without anchovy?
Yes, it's the vegetarian version. In that case, the cheese becomes the protagonist, and it's advisable to use a more intense-flavored cheese, such as aged Manchego or Idiazábal. Capers or black olives can be added to compensate for the depth that the anchovy provides.
Which wine pairs best with gildas with cheese?
Txakoli is still the best option, but the presence of cheese also opens up the possibility of a fuller-bodied white wine, such as an aged Albariño or a Verdejo. For more intense cheeses like Cabrales, a brut nature cava or a dry amontillado are excellent choices. Avoid red wines with high tannins, which clash with the saltiness of the anchovy.
Where can I buy pre-made gildas with cheese?
At Bacalalo, we make artisanal gildas with cheese daily at our stand in the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona. You can also find them in our online store, where we ship throughout Spain with refrigerated shipping to ensure they arrive in perfect condition.
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