Summary: The gilda is probably the most iconic pintxo from the Basque Country. One toothpick. Three ingredients. And a depth of flavor that defies its apparent simplicity. At Casa Vallés bar in San Sebastián, where it was born in the 1940s, a gilda was "the boldest, saltiest, and a little bit spicy" item on the bar —like actress Rita Hayworth in the film that gave it its name. Eighty years later, it remains exactly that.
The problem is that a poorly made gilda —with a mediocre anchovy, a soggy pickled pepper, or a bland olive— is a huge disappointment. And a well-made gilda, with the right ingredients in the right proportions, is a small masterpiece.
At Bacalalo, since 1990, we have been selecting seafood preserves at Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona, and anchovies are one of our star products. Here's everything you need to know to make perfect gildas at home.
Contents
History of the Gilda: The First Modern Pintxo
The gilda was born around 1946 in the Casa Vallés bar in San Sebastián, when Joaquín Aramburu took a toothpick and skewered three things he had on hand: a pickled guindilla pepper, an olive, and an anchovy. The result was so popular that it remained on the menu. The name came from a regular customer who pointed out the pintxo's resemblance to Rita Hayworth in the 1946 film "Gilda": green, salty, and spicy, just like the actress's character.
What makes the gilda special from a gastronomic point of view is the interaction between its three components:- The guindilla pepper provides acidity (from the vinegar), a gentle heat, and a vegetal note.
- The olive gives body, fat, and a balancing bitter note.
- The anchovy adds umami, concentrated saltiness, and the unctuousness that binds everything together.
Together they create something greater than the sum of their parts. Separated, they are three common ingredients. Together, they are a perfect balance of flavors.
The Three Ingredients of a Gilda: Selection Guide
The Anchovies: The Soul of the Gilda
The anchovy is the ingredient that makes the most difference in a gilda. Not all anchovies are created equal —there's a huge difference between an industrial mass-produced anchovy and a Cantabrian anchovy slowly cured in salt.
What to look for in an anchovy for gildas:- Whole fillets, unbroken, with an intense mahogany brown color.
- Firm texture that melts in the mouth, not leathery.
- Salty but not overpowering flavor, with notes of sea, nut, and fermentation.
- Zero raw or rancid fish aroma.
The best anchovies for gildas: Cantabrian anchovies are the absolute benchmark. Those from Santoña, Laredo, or the Basque Country have the highest concentration of flavor. "00" or "triple zero" anchovies are the largest size —perfect for gildas because they have more flesh and visual presence. Anchovies in olive oil are always superior to those in sunflower oil.
At Bacalalo, we have anchovies of different sizes and origins. Discover our selection of anchovies. For gildas, we always recommend the larger sizes —a large anchovy in a gilda is visually impressive and sensually more satisfying.
The Guindillas: The Character of the Gilda
The pickled guindilla pepper is the component that provides acidity and that mild spicy kick. The perfect guindillas for gildas are the long, thin, light green Basque guindillas in vinegar. The most famous are those from Ibarra (Gipuzkoa), small and very aromatic.
Keys to choosing good guindillas:- Bright green color, not yellowish or brown.
- Firm texture, that "crunches" when bitten.
- Mild spiciness —a traditional gilda is not intensely spicy.
- Quality vinegar, not aggressive.
Avoid soft guindillas, those with wrinkled skin, or those that smell too much like industrial vinegar.
The Olives: The Body of the Gilda
The olive acts as a counterpoint to the anchovy: where the anchovy is salty and intense, the olive provides a mild bitterness and a vegetal fat that softens the whole.
The most common olives used for gildas:- Manzanilla green olive: The most classic and popular. Pitted, slightly bitter, and firm.
- Gordal olive: Larger and fleshier. Gives the olive more prominence in the overall composition.
- Arbequina olive: Smaller and more delicate, for more subtle versions.
- Anchovy-stuffed olive: For a next-level anchovy gilda (though it can be excessively salty).
The important thing: that the olive is firm, not soft or mushy, and that it is well drained of its preserving liquid.
Recipe for Perfect Gildas: Exact Proportions
Ingredients for 10 gildas
- 10 anchovies in oil (whole fillets, good quality)
- 10-15 pickled guindilla peppers (depending on size)
- 10 pitted green olives (Manzanilla or Gordal)
- Extra virgin olive oil (for finishing, optional)
- Pickled gherkins
- Piquillo peppers
- Pickled anchovies (boquerones)
The Toothpick: What Matters
Use long toothpicks (appetizer skewers, 15-18 cm) or thin bamboo skewers. A short toothpick won't allow you to skewer all ingredients correctly or hold the gilda upright. In top restaurants, metal skewers are used, but for home use, bamboo ones are perfect.
Assembly: The Correct Order
The order in which you skewer the ingredients matters —both aesthetically and for the eating experience.
Classic gilda order:- Start with the guindilla: skewer through the stem end.
- Next, the olive.
- Roll the anchovy into a spiral and skewer it.
- If the guindilla is long, finish with another piece of guindilla or with another end of the same one.
Visual proportions: A well-assembled gilda should have the guindilla as the central and longest element, with the olive in the middle and the anchovy rolled around it. The overall presentation should look generous, not meager.
The Finishing Touch
Once you have assembled the gildas, place them on a tray and drizzle them with a very thin stream of extra virgin olive oil. If the anchovies are good quality, they already come in oil, but a little extra EVO will add luster to the dish and enhance the flavor.
Serve immediately or let rest for 15-20 minutes for the flavors to meld. Gildas keep well in the refrigerator for 24 hours, covered with plastic wrap.
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5 Gilda Variations
1. Gilda with Pickled Anchovy (Boquerón)
Substitute the cured anchovy with pickled anchovy (anchovy marinated in acid, not salt). The result is milder, with more acidity and less salt. Ideal for those who find anchovies too intense. The texture is different —the pickled anchovy is firmer and white.
2. Gilda with Gherkin
Add a piece of pickled gherkin between the guindilla and the olive. The gherkin provides more acidity and a very pleasant additional crunch. This is a very popular variation in Madrid and increasingly common in the Basque Country.
3. Gilda with Piquillo Pepper
Piquillo pepper rolled around the anchovy (or instead of the guindilla) creates a sweeter and milder variation. Less traditional but very attractive and popular in restaurant versions.
4. Black Gilda with Kalamata Olive
Use black Kalamata olives instead of green olives. The result is more bitter and earthy, with the black olive taking more prominence. A more Mediterranean than Basque version.
5. Double Anchovy Gilda
For anchovy devotees: two fillets instead of one. You can roll them together or in a double spiral. The result is saltier, more intense, and very satisfying for preserve lovers.
Common Mistakes When Making Gildas
Mistake 1: Poor quality anchovy This is the most frequent and unforgivable mistake. An industrial anchovy, metallic in taste or pasty in texture, ruins the entire gilda. Don't skimp on the anchovies.
Mistake 2: Soft guindillas If the guindilla doesn't crunch when you bite into it, the texture of the whole dish is compromised. Look for firm, well-preserved guindillas.
Mistake 3: Toothpick too short With a short toothpick, you can't skewer all the ingredients properly and the gilda falls apart. Use long toothpicks.
Mistake 4: Olive with pit Although some prefer them this way, an olive with a pit in a gilda is a problem —you can't eat it in one bite. Always use pitted olives.
Mistake 5: Serving too cold If the gildas have been in the refrigerator for a long time, the anchovies harden and lose their unctuousness. Take them out 15-20 minutes before serving.
What to Pair with Gildas
Gildas were born to accompany txakoli, the sparkling white wine from the Basque Country: acidic, dry, slightly effervescent. The acidity of txakoli cuts through the anchovy's fat and cleanses the palate for the next bite.
Other excellent options:- Cold blonde beer: Classic in San Sebastián and Bilbao bars.
- Brut Cava: The bubbles serve the same function as txakoli.
- Manzanilla or Fino Sherry: Amontillado and anchovies are a legendary combination.
- Natural Basque or Asturian cider: The acidity is perfect with the gilda.
Where to Eat the Best Gildas
If you ever go to San Sebastián, there are three bars where the gilda is almost sacred:
- Bar Casa Vallés: Where the gilda was born. On Reyes Católicos street. The original place, without frills.
- La Cuchara de San Telmo: A more elaborate version, with premium anchovy.
- Bar Txepetxa: Anchovy specialists. Their gilda uses top-quality anchovies.
In Barcelona, gilda culture is widespread in Born, Eixample, and Poble Sec. And at home, with good anchovies and good ingredients, you can rival any bar.
Why Quality Anchovies Make All the Difference
A gilda is only as good as its anchovy. There's no middle ground. Cantabrian anchovy, properly cured, undergoes a long process: anchovies are caught in spring (May-June), salted in barrels for 8-12 months, and then filleted by hand and packed in oil. This slow curing process develops the free amino acids that give it its characteristic umami flavor.
An industrial anchovy that goes straight from factory to jar in weeks does not have that complexity. You'll notice it in the first bite.
At Bacalalo, since 1990 at Mercat del Ninot, we select the best seafood preserves. See our selection of anchovies — ideal for perfect gildas and for enjoying alone on a piece of toast.
Frequently Asked Questions about Gildas
How many gildas are served per person?
As an appetizer, 2-3 gildas per person is typical. As part of a selection of pintxos, 1-2 is sufficient. If they are the main snack before a light meal, 3-4 per person.
Can I prepare gildas in advance?
Yes. You can assemble them up to 24 hours in advance and store them in the refrigerator covered with plastic wrap. Take them out 15-20 minutes before serving so that the anchovy regains its optimal texture. Do not prepare them too far in advance because the guindilla can soften the anchovy.
Which anchovy is better for gildas: in olive oil or in sunflower oil?
Always in extra virgin olive oil. Anchovies in sunflower oil are cheaper, but sunflower oil has a neutral taste that doesn't complement the anchovy. Olive oil adds complexity and rounds out the overall flavor.
Are gildas very spicy?
Basque guindillas (those from Ibarra) have a mild spiciness —they are much milder than a jalapeño, for example. If you want gildas without spice, use mild guindillas or substitute them with piquillo peppers. If you want more spice, add a few drops of hot sauce or use hotter guindillas.
Can I make gildas without anchovy?
Technically yes, though it would no longer be a gilda. The anchovy is the defining ingredient of the pintxo. Without anchovy, it's a skewer of guindilla and olive. If you are vegetarian/vegan, you can explore with seaweed (nori, for example) or pepper-stuffed olives to mimic the saltiness.
How long do assembled gildas last?
In the refrigerator, well covered, they last 24-36 hours. Any longer, and the guindilla starts to soften and the anchovy loses texture. They are best fresh.
Do I need to rinse anchovies before using them?
No. Anchovies in oil are not rinsed. Just drain them lightly if they have too much oil. If you rinse them, you lose flavor and they become wet, which makes assembly difficult.
What's the difference between anchovy and pickled anchovy (boquerón) for gildas?
Anchovy is the same fish (engraulis encrasicolus) but cured in salt for months, which gives it its dark brown color and intense flavor. Pickled anchovy is the same fish marinated in vinegar, which gives it a white color and a milder, more acidic flavor. Both can be used in gildas, with very different results.
Does the gilda use additional oil?
It depends on the quality of the anchovy. If you use premium anchovies in good olive oil, no extra oil is needed. If the anchovies come in inferior quality oil or you drained them too much, a thin drizzle of EVO greatly improves the result.
Can you make a larger gilda for presentation at an event?
Yes. Use long skewers and increase the proportions: 2-3 guindillas, 2-3 olives, and 2 anchovies per skewer. For large events, assemble the skewers and place them vertically in a glass or a stand —they look very attractive.
What exactly is "00" or "triple zero" calibre anchovy?
The calibre in anchovies indicates the number of fillets per kilo: the fewer, the larger. "00" or "double zero" and "000" or "triple zero" are the largest calibres and therefore the most valued —fewer anchovies per kilo, each with more flesh. They are ideal for gildas because they have more presence and better texture.
Can a gilda be gluten-free?
Yes. The three ingredients of the classic gilda (anchovy, guindilla, olive) are naturally gluten-free. Check the labeling of pickled guindillas to confirm there are no traces, but in general, gildas are suitable for coeliacs.
