Summary: The gilda is probably the most iconic pintxo in the Basque Country. A toothpick. Three ingredients. And a depth of flavor that defies its apparent simplicity. At Casa Vallés bar in San Sebastián, where it originated in the 1940s, a gilda was "the most daring, salty, and slightly spicy thing" on the bar—like actress Rita Hayworth in the film that gave it its name. Eighty years later, it remains exactly that.
The problem is that a poorly made gilda—with a run-of-the-mill anchovy, a mushy chili pepper, or a tasteless olive—is a huge disappointment. And a well-made gilda, with the right ingredients in the right proportions, is a small masterpiece.
At Bacalalo, we've been selecting seafood preserves at Barcelona's Mercat del Ninot since 1990, and anchovies are one of our star products. Here's everything you need to know to make perfect gildas at home.
Content
History of the Gilda: The First Modern Pintxo
The gilda was created around 1946 at Casa Vallés bar in San Sebastián, when Joaquín Aramburu took a toothpick and skewered three things he had on hand: a pickled chili pepper, an olive, and an anchovy. The result was so popular that it became a permanent fixture on the menu. The name came from a regular customer who pointed out the pintxo's resemblance to Rita Hayworth in the 1946 film "Gilda": green, salty, and spicy, just like the actress's character.
What makes the gilda special from a gastronomic point of view is the interaction between its three components:- The chili pepper adds acidity (from the vinegar), gentle heat, and a vegetal touch.
- The olive provides body, fat, and a bitter note that balances
- The anchovy provides the umami, the concentrated salinity, and the unctuousness that binds everything together.
Together they create something greater than the sum of their parts. Separately, they are three common ingredients. Together, they are a perfect balance of flavors.
The Three Ingredients of a Gilda: Selection Guide
Anchovies: The Soul of the Gilda
Anchovies are the ingredient that makes the biggest difference in a gilda. Not all anchovies are the same—there's a world of difference between a mass-produced, industrial anchovy and a Cantabrian anchovy slowly cured in salt.
What to look for in an anchovy for gildas:- Whole fillets, unbroken, of a deep mahogany brown color
- Firm texture that melts in the mouth, not chewy
- Salty but not overpowering flavor, with notes of sea, nuts and fermentation
- Zero raw or rancid fish in the aroma
The best anchovies for gildas: Cantabrian anchovies are the absolute benchmark. Those from Santoña, Laredo, or the Basque Country have the highest concentration of flavor. "00" or "triple zero" anchovies are the largest—perfect for gildas because they have more meat and a more appealing appearance. Anchovies in olive oil are always superior to those in sunflower oil.
At Bacalalo, we have anchovies of different sizes and origins. Discover our selection of anchovies . For gildas, we always recommend the larger ones—a large anchovy in a gilda is visually impressive and more satisfying to taste.
The Guindillas: The Character of the Gilda
Pickled chili peppers are the ingredient that provides acidity and that mild spiciness. The perfect chili peppers for gildas are Basque pickled chili peppers, long and thin, with a light green color. The most famous are those from Ibarra (Gipuzkoa), small and very aromatic.
Keys to choosing good chili peppers:- Bright green color, not yellowish or brown
- Firm texture, that "crunches" when you bite into them
- Mild spiciness — a traditional gilda is not very spicy
- Quality, non-aggressive vinegar
Avoid soft chili peppers, those with wrinkled skin, or those that smell too much of industrial vinegar.
Olives: The Body of the Gilda
The olive acts as a counterpoint to the anchovy: where the anchovy is salty and intense, the olive provides a mild bitterness and a vegetable fat that softens the whole.
The most commonly used olives for gildas:- Manzanilla green olive : The most classic and popular. Pitted, slightly bitter and firm.
- Gordal olive : Larger and meatier. It gives more prominence to the olive in the overall dish.
- Arbequina olive : Smaller and more delicate, for more subtle versions.
- Olive stuffed with anchovy : For a gilda of cubed anchovy (although it may be excessively salty).
The important thing is that the olive is firm, not soft or mushy, and that it is well drained of the preserving liquid.
Perfect Gildas Recipe: Exact Proportions
Ingredients for 10 gildas
- 10 anchovies in oil (whole fillets, high quality)
- 10-15 pickled chili peppers (depending on size)
- 10 pitted green olives (Manzanilla or Gordal)
- Extra virgin olive oil (to finish, optional)
- Pickled gherkins
- Piquillo peppers
- Anchovies in vinegar
The Toothpick: What Does It Matter
Use long chopsticks (the kind used for appetizers, 15-18 cm) or thin bamboo skewers. Short chopsticks don't allow you to thread all the ingredients properly or hold the gilda upright. High-end restaurants use metal skewers, but bamboo ones are perfect for home use.
Assembly: The Correct Order
The order in which you thread the ingredients onto the toothpick matters — both aesthetically and for the eating experience.
Classic order of the gilda:- Start with the chili pepper: thread it through the stem end.
- Next, the olive
- Roll the anchovy into a spiral and thread it onto a skewer
- If the chili pepper is long, finish it off with another piece of chili pepper or with the other end of the same pepper.
Visual proportions: A well-assembled gilda should have the chili pepper as the central and longest element, with the olive in the middle and the anchovy wrapped around it. The overall effect should be generous, not skimpy.
The Final Touch
Once you've assembled the gildas, place them on a tray and drizzle them with a very thin stream of extra virgin olive oil. If the anchovies are of good quality, they'll already be packed in oil, but a little extra virgin olive oil will enhance the presentation and flavor.
Serve immediately or let it rest for 15-20 minutes to allow the flavors to meld. Gildas keep well in the refrigerator for 24 hours, covered with plastic wrap.
5 Variations of the Gilda
1. Gilda with Anchovies in Vinegar
Substitute cured anchovies with pickled anchovies (marinated in acid, not salt). The result is milder, with more acidity and less salt. Ideal for those who find anchovies too strong. The texture is different—the anchovies are firmer and whiter.
2. Gilda with Pickle
Add a piece of pickled gherkin between the chili pepper and the olive. The gherkin adds more acidity and a very pleasant extra crunch. It's a very popular variation in Madrid and increasingly common in the Basque Country.
3. Gilda with Piquillo Pepper
Wrapping the piquillo pepper around the anchovy (or using it instead of the chili pepper) creates a sweeter, milder variation. Less traditional, but very eye-catching and popular in restaurant versions.
4. Black Gilda with Kalamata Olive
Use Kalamata black olives instead of green olives. The result is more bitter and earthy, with the black olive taking center stage. A more Mediterranean than Basque version.
5. Gilda Double Anchovy
For anchovy lovers: two fillets instead of one. You can roll them together or in a double spiral. The result is saltier, more intense, and very satisfying for canned food enthusiasts.
Common Mistakes When Making Gildas
Mistake 1: Poor Quality Anchovies . This is the most frequent and unforgivable mistake. An industrially produced anchovy, with a metallic taste or pasty texture, ruins the entire gilda. Don't skimp on the anchovies.
Error 2: Soft chili peppers. If the chili pepper doesn't crunch when you bite into it, the overall texture is compromised. Look for firm, well-preserved chili peppers.
Error 3: Toothpick too short. With a short toothpick, you can't properly thread all the ingredients, and the gilda falls apart. Use long toothpicks.
Mistake 4: Olives with pits. Although some prefer them that way, an olive with a pit is a problem in a gilda—you can't eat it in one bite. Always pitted.
Mistake 5: Serving too cold. If the gildas have been in the refrigerator for too long, the anchovies will harden and lose their creaminess. Take them out 15-20 minutes before serving.
What to Drink with Gildas
Gildas were created to accompany txakoli, the sparkling white wine of the Basque Country: acidic, dry, and slightly effervescent. The acidity of the txakoli cuts through the richness of the anchovy and cleanses the palate for the next bite.
Other excellent options:- Cold blonde beer : A classic in the bars of San Sebastián and Bilbao
- Cava brut : The bubbles serve the same function as in txakoli
- Manzanilla or Jerez fino : Amontillado and anchovies are a legendary combination
- Basque or Asturian natural cider : The acidity is perfect with the gilda
Where to Eat the Best Gildas
If you ever go to San Sebastián, there are three bars where the gilda is almost sacred:
- Bar Casa Vallés : Where the gilda was born. On Reyes Católicos street. The original place, without frills.
- The San Telmo Spoon : A more elaborate version, with premium anchovies.
- Bar Txepetxa : Anchovy specialists. Their gilda uses top-quality anchovies.
In Barcelona, the gilda culture is widespread in the Born, Eixample, and Poble Sec districts. And at home, with good anchovies and good ingredients, you can rival any bar.
Why Quality Anchovies Make the Difference
A gilda is only as good as the anchovy it contains. There's no middle ground. Properly cured Cantabrian anchovies undergo a lengthy process: the anchovies are caught in spring (May-June), salted in barrels for 8-12 months, and then filleted by hand and packed in oil. This slow curing process develops the free amino acids that give them their characteristic umami flavor.
An industrially produced anchovy that goes straight from the factory to the jar in a matter of weeks doesn't have that complexity. You can tell from the first bite.
At Bacalalo, since 1990 in the Mercat del Ninot, we select the finest preserved seafood. See our selection of anchovies — ideal for perfect gildas and delicious on their own on a slice of toast.
Frequently Asked Questions about Gildas
How many gildas are served per person?
As an appetizer, 2-3 gildas per person is typical. As part of a selection of pintxos, 1-2 are sufficient. If they are the main snack before a light meal, 3-4 per person.
Can I prepare the gildas in advance?
Yes. You can assemble them up to 24 hours in advance and store them in the refrigerator covered with plastic wrap. Take them out 15-20 minutes before serving so the anchovies regain their optimal texture. Don't prepare them too far in advance because the chili pepper can soften the anchovies.
Which anchovy is better for gildas: in olive oil or in sunflower oil?
Always in extra virgin olive oil. Anchovies in sunflower oil are cheaper, but sunflower oil has a neutral flavor that doesn't complement the anchovy. Olive oil adds complexity and rounds out the dish.
Are gildas very spicy?
Basque chili peppers (Ibarra peppers) have a mild heat—much milder than a jalapeño, for example. If you want gildas without spice, use mild chili peppers or substitute piquillo peppers. If you want more heat, add a few drops of hot sauce or use hotter chili peppers.
Can I make gildas without anchovies?
Technically, yes, although it wouldn't be a gilda anymore. The anchovy is the defining ingredient of the pintxo. Without anchovy, it's just a skewer of chili pepper and olive. If you're vegetarian/vegan, you can experiment with seaweed (nori, for example) or olives stuffed with pimento to mimic the saltiness.
How long do the mounted gildas last?
In the refrigerator, well covered, they keep for 24-36 hours. Beyond that, the chili pepper starts to soften and the anchovy loses its texture. They're best fresh.
Do anchovies need to be washed before using them?
No. Anchovies in oil shouldn't be washed. Just drain them lightly if they're too oily. Washing them diminishes their flavor and leaves them damp, which makes them difficult to assemble.
What is the difference between anchovy and whitebait for gildas?
Anchovies are the same fish (Engraulis encrasicolus) but cured in salt for months, which gives them their dark brown color and intense flavor. Boquerones are the same fish marinated in vinegar, which gives them a white color and a milder, more acidic flavor. Both can be used in gildas, with very different results.
Does the gilda have extra oil?
It depends on the quality of the anchovies. If you use top-quality anchovies in good olive oil, you don't need to add any more. If the anchovies are packed in lower-quality oil or you drained them too much, a thin drizzle of extra virgin olive oil greatly improves the result.
Is it possible to make a bigger gilda to present at an event?
Yes. Use long skewers and increase the proportions: 2-3 chili peppers, 2-3 olives, and 2 anchovies per skewer. For larger events, assemble the skewers and place them vertically in a glass or on a stand—they look very impressive.
What exactly is "00 gauge" or "triple zero" anchovy?
The size of anchovies indicates the number of fillets per kilo: the fewer, the larger. "00" or "double zero" and "000" or "triple zero" are the largest sizes and therefore the most prized—fewer anchovies per kilo, each with more meat. They are ideal for gildas (a type of pintxo) because they have a more substantial appearance and a better texture.
Can a gilda be gluten-free?
Yes. All three ingredients in a classic gilda (anchovy, chili pepper, olive) are naturally gluten-free. Check the labeling of pickled chili peppers to confirm there are no traces, but in general, gildas are suitable for people with celiac disease.
