Bacalao a la Riojana: Traditional Recipe with Choricero Peppers

What is Bacalao a la Riojana

Bacalao a la Riojana is one of the most emblematic spoon dishes of La Rioja's gastronomy. It is a slow-cooked stew where desalinated cod loins are cooked in a red sauce made with choricero peppers, sautéed onion, garlic, and "cascada" (broken) potatoes that add body and naturally thicken the broth.

Unlike other preparations such as bacalao al pil pil or baked cod with potatoes, the Riojana style is a slow-cooked dish that requires time and care. Its final texture is that of a dense and comforting stew: the "cascada" potato partially breaks down, thickening the sauce without the need for flour, while the cod retains its juicy, well-defined flakes.

The dish has an unmistakable dark red color, courtesy of dried choricero peppers. It is not spicy (the choricero adds sweetness, not heat) and has a depth of flavor that improves with resting: like all spoon stews, bacalao a la Riojana is better the next day. In La Rioja, it is served year-round, with special prominence during Holy Week, Christmas, and the San Mateo festivities in Logroño.

Difference between Bacalao a la Riojana and a la Vizcaína

Both dishes share desalinated cod and choricero peppers, but they are fundamentally different in technique, texture, and final result.

In summary: Vizcaína style is a refined sauce, puréed and strained. Riojana style is a rustic stew with potatoes that break down and an unstrained sauce. Vizcaína impresses at a dinner; Riojana comforts on a winter day.

History: La Rioja, cod, and choricero peppers

It may seem strange that a cod dish is emblematic of an inland region without a coast, but history explains it. Since the Middle Ages, La Rioja was a crossroads of trade routes between Castile, the Basque Country, and Navarre. Basque muleteers transporting dried cod from Cantabrian ports inland stopped in Riojan towns such as Haro, Nájera, and Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Salted cod arrived as a cheap and durable protein, perfect for meatless days during Lent.

Choricero peppers have been cultivated since the 18th century in both the Basque Country and La Rioja Alta. Strings of dried peppers hanging on the balconies of Riojan villages are a classic image of the region. It was the natural combination of these two ingredients—cod from the north and local sun-dried peppers—that gave rise to the dish.

The potato, which arrived in La Rioja in the 18th century, completed the trilogy. Riojan cooks discovered that by "cascando" the potato (breaking it into irregular pieces) and cooking it in the stew, the starch naturally thickened the sauce. This technical detail is what separates the Riojana from the Vizcaína: the "cascada" potato is both a thickener and an accompaniment.

Today, bacalao a la Riojana is a mandatory dish on the menus of Logroño restaurants, especially on Calle Laurel, and is celebrated in gastronomic competitions throughout the region.

How to prepare choricero peppers

Choricero peppers are the defining ingredient of the Riojana style. If you prepare them well, the sauce will have a sweet, deep flavor and an unmistakable intense red color. Here are the steps:

1. Choose quality peppers. They should be flexible to the touch (not rigid) and uniformly dark red. The best ones come from La Rioja Alta, Navarre, and the Basque Country.
2. Open them and clean out the seeds. Open each pepper in half, remove the stem, seeds, and white veins. Seeds can add bitterness if not removed.
3. Hydrate them in hot water. Cover them with hot water (70-80 °C) and leave them for 30 minutes until soft. Reserve the hydration water: it has color and flavor that will enhance the sauce.
4. Scrape the pulp. With a spoon, scrape the inside of each pepper to extract the red, dense pulp. Discard the outer skin.
5. Reserve the pulp. For 4 people, you will need the pulp from 8-10 choricero peppers.

Valid shortcut: You can use canned choricero pepper pulp (3-4 tablespoons for 4 people). The result is 85% as good as with dried choriceros. What you should not use is red paprika as a primary substitute: the flavor is completely different.

Ingredients for 4 people

• 4 loins or cuts of desalinated cod – 200-250 g each, minimum 2 cm thick. You can use professional desalinated cod ready to cook.
• 8-10 dried choricero peppers – or 3-4 heaped tablespoons of canned choricero pulp.
• 4 medium potatoes – Kennebec or Monalisa type, about 600-700 g. For "cascar" (breaking), not cutting.
• 2 large onions – finely julienned (about 400 g).
• 4 cloves of garlic – sliced.
• 1 ripe tomato – grated (optional, not all versions include it).
• 100 ml extra virgin olive oil – mild, Arbequina type.
• 500-600 ml fish stock – or hot water. The stock makes a difference in flavor.
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 teaspoon sweet paprika – from La Vera or Riojan (optional, enhances color).
• Salt – only if necessary after tasting. Cod adds salinity.
• Fresh chopped parsley – for serving.

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Traditional Bacalao a la Riojana recipe step by step

This is the Bacalao a la Riojana recipe as it is made in the kitchens of Logroño, Haro, and the villages of La Rioja Alta. Total time: 50-60 minutes (not counting prior desalting if using dried cod).

1. Prepare the choricero peppers. If using dried ones, hydrate them for 30 minutes in hot water, clean, and scrape out the pulp as explained in the previous section. Reserve the pulp and the hydration water.
2. "Casca" the potatoes. Peel the potatoes and, instead of cutting them, insert the tip of the knife 2 cm and lever to break them into irregular pieces of 3-4 cm. The rough surface releases starch that naturally thickens the sauce.
3. Sauté the onion. In a wide pot (earthenware if you have one), heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion, sliced garlic, and bay leaf. Cook for 15-20 minutes until the onion is translucent and tender, without browning.
4. Add the choricero pulp. Incorporate the scraped pepper pulp and, if using, the grated tomato and the teaspoon of sweet paprika. Sauté for 3-4 minutes over medium-low heat, stirring to integrate it well with the sofrito.
5. Add the potatoes. Add the "cascada" potatoes and sauté for 2-3 minutes so that they are impregnated with the sofrito and begin to release starch.
6. Pour in the broth. Add the hot fish stock (or the hydration water from the choriceros topped up with hot water to 500-600 ml). The liquid should cover the potatoes. Turn up the heat until it boils, then reduce to medium-low heat.
7. Cook the potatoes for 20-25 minutes. Over low heat, with the lid ajar. Move the pot with a gentle back-and-forth motion (not with a spoon). The potatoes are ready when they are easily pierced and the sauce has thickened.
8. Place the cod. Dry the cod loins with kitchen paper and place them on top of the potatoes, skin-side up. Submerge each loin slightly in the sauce so that it is partially covered.
9. Cook the cod for 12-15 minutes. Over low heat, uncovered. Spoon sauce over the surface every 3-4 minutes. Do not turn the loins over.
10. Check doneness. The cod is ready when the flakes separate easily. The sauce should have a stew consistency.
11. Rest and serve. Remove from heat, sprinkle with parsley, and let rest for 5 minutes, covered. Serve in the pot. Riojana is eaten with a spoon.

Arguiñano's version of Bacalao a la Riojana

Karlos Arguiñano has prepared bacalao a la Riojana on multiple occasions, and his version introduces nuances compared to the purist recipe:

• Lightly flour the cod and sear it for 1 minute per side before adding it to the stew.
• Uses grated tomato in the sofrito to provide acidity that balances the sweetness of the choricero.
• Adds a dried chili pepper to the sofrito (removed before serving) to counterbalance the sweetness.
• Cuts the potato into thick slices (2 cm) instead of "cascando" it, giving a more orderly appearance.
• Finishes with raw olive oil before serving, providing freshness and shine.

If you want to replicate Arguiñano's version, the only real change is searing the cod first and using potato slices instead of "cascada." The rest of the process is identical.

Easy and quick version of Bacalao a la Riojana

If you don't have an hour or don't want to bother with dried peppers, this easy Bacalao a la Riojana recipe reduces the time to 30-35 minutes:

1. Use canned choricero pepper pulp (3-4 tablespoons), eliminating the 30 minutes of hydration and scraping.
2. Cut the onion into small dice instead of julienne: it sautés faster (8-10 minutes).
3. Cut the potatoes into 2 cm cubes instead of "cascando" them: they cook faster (15 minutes).
4. Sauté the onion with the garlic for 8 minutes. Add the choricero pulp and sauté for 2 minutes.
5. Add the potatoes and hot broth. Cook for 15 minutes over medium heat.
6. Place the cod on top and cook for 10-12 minutes over low heat.
7. Sprinkle with parsley, let rest for 3 minutes, and serve.

The result is 80% of the flavor of the traditional version in half the time. The sauce will be slightly less thick, and the flavor of the canned choricero will be slightly less complex, but it is still an excellent dish for a weekday.

Tips for the perfect sauce

The Riojana sauce is not puréed or strained (that's Vizcaína). It is left rustic, with visible onion pieces and partially broken down potatoes. But that doesn't mean it doesn't require attention. Here are the tips that make the difference between a correct Riojana and an extraordinary one:

• "Casca" the potatoes, don't cut them. By breaking them with a levering motion, the surface becomes irregular and releases starch that naturally thickens the sauce.
• Use fish stock, not water. The difference in flavor is enormous. If you don't have homemade, a quality bouillon cube dissolved in hot water is infinitely better than plain water.
• Shake the pot, don't stir with a spoon. Gentle circular movements integrate the sauce without breaking the potatoes or disintegrating the cod.
• Low heat after adding the cod. If it boils vigorously, it will fall apart and become dry. Low heat allows it to release gelatin little by little, which binds the sauce.
• Baste the cod with the sauce. Every 3-4 minutes, spoon sauce from the sides and baste the surface of the loins for even cooking without turning them over.
• Use the choricero water. It has color, flavor, and nutrients. Use it as part of the stew liquid.
• Rest for at least 5 minutes. The sauce settles, the potatoes absorb flavor, and the cod finishes cooking with residual heat.

What cod to use for the Riojana style

The choice of cod piece directly influences the final result of the stew. Not all parts of the cod behave the same in prolonged cooking with sauce:

Our recommendation: desalinated loins 2.5-3 cm thick, ready to cook without the 36-48 hours of desalting that dried cod needs. If you prefer to desalt your own cod, consult our guide.

Comparison table: peppers and regional variants

Although the classic recipe uses choricero peppers, there are regional variants within La Rioja itself and neighboring communities. This table summarizes the differences:

The classic Riojana with "cascada" potato and dried choricero is the reference version. The others are valid variations. Try the Navarran with roasted piquillo: it combines very well with the choricero.

Pairing: Rioja wines and more

Being a Riojan dish, the natural pairing is with wines from the DOCa Rioja. The intensity of the choricero sauce calls for a wine with personality:

• Rioja Crianza red – The classic choice. A Tempranillo with some Garnacha, 12-14 months in barrel: soft tannins that balance the intensity of the choricero.
• Barrel-fermented Rioja white – A Viura or Tempranillo Blanco with aging perfectly withstands the power of the dish.
• Rioja Rosé – Full-bodied Garnacha. The acidity of the rosé cuts through the richness of the sauce.
• Rioja Reserva – For special occasions. The complexity of the Reserva (vanilla, leather) dialogues with the depth of the choricero.
• Alternative: Txakoli – Light and acidic white whose natural salinity accompanies the cod.
• Alternative: Craft beer – An amber ale with a malty body complements the sweetness of the choricero.

Serving temperature: Crianza red at 16-17 °C, white at 10-12 °C, rosé at 8-10 °C.

Storage and reheating

Like most spoon stews, it tastes better the next day. The sauce settles, and the potatoes absorb the choricero broth:

• In the fridge: let cool (maximum 2 hours), cover, and refrigerate. Keeps for 3-4 days. The sauce will thicken as it cools due to the starch; it will regain its consistency when reheated.
• Freezing: in individual portions with plenty of sauce, in an airtight container or vacuum bag. Keeps for up to 2 months. The cod loses some firmness but is still good.
• How to reheat: over low heat in a pot, adding 2-3 tablespoons of broth if it has thickened. Heat the sauce first; when it bubbles, place the cod on top and cover for 5 minutes.
• In the microwave: medium power (50-60%), 3-4 minutes, with a glass of water inside to generate steam.

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