Canarian-style cod: Recipe with Mojo sauce and wrinkled potatoes

Canary-style Cod: volcanic flavors for an Atlantic fish

The Canary Islands have their own unique cuisine, distinct from the rest of Spain. African, American, and Peninsular influences blend in a gastronomy where mojo, papas arrugadas, and gofio are hallmarks. Cod arrived at the islands from the fishing grounds of the Sahara and Iceland, and the Canarians learned to cook it with the ingredients from their volcanic pantry.

Canary-style cod combines desalted cod loins with the two main mojos: the red one (mojo picón, with pepper and paprika) and the green one (cilantro or parsley mojo). Accompanied by papas arrugadas —those small potatoes cooked with a lot of salt that end up with wrinkled skin and a white crust—, it forms a dish that is pure Canarian identity.

What makes this preparation special is the contrast. The cod, soft and salty. The red mojo, spicy and smoky. The green mojo, fresh and herbaceous. The potatoes, concentrated and earthy. Each bite is different depending on the combination.

Ingredients for 4 people

For the cod:

• 600 g desalted cod (thick loins)
• 500 g small potatoes (Canarian, bonita, or similar type)
• 100 g coarse salt (for the papas arrugadas)
• Extra virgin olive oil for frying
• Flour for dredging

For the red mojo (picón):

• 4 cloves garlic
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds (or ground)
• 1 dried choricero pepper (rehydrated) or 1 teaspoon smoked paprika (pimentón de la Vera)
• 1-2 dried chilies (adjust to spicy taste)
• 100 ml extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons wine vinegar
• Salt

For the green mojo:

• 4 cloves garlic
• 1 large bunch fresh cilantro (or parsley, if you don't like cilantro)
• 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
• 1 small green pepper
• 100 ml extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tablespoons wine vinegar
• Salt

How to make papas arrugadas

Papas arrugadas seem easy, and they are, but they have their technique.

1. Wash the potatoes (do not peel them). Choose small potatoes, about the size of a large walnut or a small egg. They should all be of similar size so they cook evenly.
2. Put them in a pot and cover them with water. Add 100 g of coarse salt for every liter of water. Yes, it seems like a lot. That amount is correct.
3. Bring to a boil and cook for 20-25 minutes until tender (prick with a toothpick). It depends on the size.
4. Drain almost all the water, leaving only 1-2 cm at the bottom. Return the pot to low heat, uncovered, and let the water evaporate. Stir the pot occasionally.
5. The potatoes will begin to wrinkle and become covered with a white salt crust. When they are dry and wrinkled, remove from heat.

The secret is in the final evaporation. The potatoes should be dry on the outside, with wrinkled skin and a thin layer of salt crystals. Inside, the flesh remains creamy and concentrated.

How to make the mojos

Red mojo:

1. If using dried choricero pepper, rehydrate it for 20 minutes in hot water and scrape out the flesh. If using paprika, skip this step.
2. In a mortar (or blender), crush the garlic with the salt and cumin until a paste forms.
3. Add the chopped chili and the choricero pepper flesh (or paprika). Grind until integrated.
4. Gradually add the oil in a thin stream while continuing to stir. Finish with the vinegar.
5. Adjust salt and spiciness. The red mojo should have a clear but not aggressive spicy kick.

Green mojo:

1. Crush the garlic with the salt and cumin in the mortar.
2. Add the chopped green pepper and grind.
3. Incorporate the chopped cilantro (or parsley). Grind until an irregular green paste is obtained.
4. Add the oil in a stream and finish with the vinegar.
5. It should be slightly more liquid than the red mojo. If necessary, add a tablespoon of water.

The mojos can be made with a blender, but a mortar gives a more rustic and authentic texture. If using a blender, blend in short pulses to avoid making them too fine a cream.

Cod preparation and plating

1. Dry the cod. With paper towels, remove all surface moisture from the loins. Wet cod will splatter when fried and won't brown well.
2. Flour. Dredge the loins in flour, shaking off any excess.
3. Fry. Heat plenty of olive oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot (but not smoking), fry the loins for 3-4 minutes on the flesh side and 2 minutes on the skin side. They should be golden brown on the outside and juicy on the inside.
4. Drain. Remove the loins and place them on absorbent paper.
5. Plate the dish. On each plate: a cod loin, a handful of papas arrugadas, a generous drizzle of red mojo on one side and green mojo on the other.

In the Canary Islands, mojos are served in separate sauce boats for each diner to serve themselves as they please. Some prefer more red, others more green. Some mix both over the cod. Anything goes.

Canarian cod variations

Canarian Sancocho with cod. Sancocho is the most representative dish of Canarian cuisine. It includes salted fish (cherne or cod), sweet potatoes, potatoes, kneaded gofio, and mojo. It is a celebratory dish, typical of Good Friday, prepared in large quantities to share with family.

Canarian Onion Cod (Bacalao encebollado canario). Fried cod loins on a bed of slowly poached onion with a touch of vinegar. It is served with green mojo. It is simpler than the version with papas arrugadas but just as tasty.

Cod Ropa Vieja. With leftover cod from the previous day, shredded and sautéed with peppers, onion, and chickpeas. It is a typical leftover dish for Lenten Mondays.

To drink, a Lanzarote wine (volcanic Malvasia) or a white wine from Tenerife. Canarian wines have a minerality that pairs very well with cod and mojo.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use regular potatoes for papas arrugadas?

Yes, but choose the smallest ones you can find. The Canarian potato (papa negra or bonita) has a starchier texture that wrinkles better. Waxy potatoes like ratte don't work as well: they remain too smooth and don't absorb salt in the same way.

Does red mojo have to be very spicy?

Not necessarily. The level of spiciness is adjusted with the amount of chili. For a mild spice, use only half a chili. For a very spicy mojo, use 2-3 chilies. The Canarian tradition is for it to be spicy but not overwhelming: there should be heat, not pain.

Can I make the mojos in advance?

Yes, and they improve with rest. Store them in glass jars in the refrigerator for up to 5-7 days. Take them out 30 minutes before serving so they are at room temperature. Green mojo loses some color over the days, but the flavor remains.

Can Canary-style cod be baked?

Yes. Place the loins in a dish with a drizzle of oil and bake at 200 °C for 12-15 minutes. The result is lighter than fried. Then serve with the potatoes and mojos as usual.

What is gofio and how is it used with cod?

Gofio is flour made from toasted cereals (millet or wheat), a staple Canarian food since pre-Hispanic times. It is kneaded with fish broth or mojo to form a dense ball that is eaten with cod. It is an energetic accompaniment with a toasted cereal flavor that pairs very well.

Cilantro or parsley in green mojo?

In the Canary Islands, fresh cilantro is traditional. Parsley is the alternative for those who don't enjoy the taste of cilantro (some people genetically perceive it as soap). Both versions are legitimate. Cilantro gives a more intense and aromatic mojo; parsley, a milder and more herbaceous one.