Asturian-style cod: Recipe with Fabada and Cider

Asturian-style cod: when cider embraces cod

Asturias has a special relationship with cod. Despite being a land of seafood, monkfish, and bonito, salted cod has been a fundamental ingredient in Asturian cuisine for centuries. It entered through the ports of Gijón and Avilés, reached the most remote valleys, and was cooked in ways that only Asturians know how to do.

Asturian-style cod is not just one recipe. It is a range of preparations that share a common denominator: natural cider. Cider, with its acidity and fruity nuances, cuts through the fat of the oil, softens the residual salt of the cod, and creates a broth with a character that cannot be achieved with wine or water.The most festive version incorporates "fabes de la Granja" (the same beans used in "fabada") cooked separately and added to the stew. It is a hearty, winter dish that fills the kitchen with an aroma that anticipates pleasure before the first bite.

Ingredients for 4 people

For the cod with cider:

• 600 g of desalted cod (thick loins)
• 300 ml of natural Asturian cider
• 1 large onion
• 3 cloves of garlic
• 1 green pepper
• 200 g of crushed tomatoes
• 80 ml of extra virgin olive oil
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tablespoon of flour
• Fresh parsley
• Salt and pepper

For the fabes (optional but recommended):

• 200 g of Fabes de la Granja (dry) or 400 g cooked
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 clove of garlic
• Salt

The cider: use natural Asturian cider, not carbonated cider or sweet cider. Natural cider has an acidity and tannins that add complexity to the stew. If you can't find it, a dry white wine with a splash of apple cider vinegar can approximate it.

Preparation of the fabes

If using dry fabes, soak them overnight in plenty of cold water (minimum 12 hours). The next day:

1. Drain the fabes and place them in a pot with cold water covering them by 3-4 cm.
2. Add the bay leaf and the whole garlic clove.
3. Bring to a boil. When it starts to boil, reduce to minimum heat.
4. Cook for 1 hour and 30 minutes to 2 hours, adding cold water when the level drops (this is called "scaring" the fabes and helps them to become tender). Do not stir: gently move the pot.
5. Salt at the end, in the last 15 minutes. If you salt at the beginning, the skin of the fabes will harden.

The fabes are ready when they crush easily with your fingers but retain their shape. The skin should be tender, not hard or wrinkled. If using canned cooked fabes, drain them and set aside.

Step-by-step Asturian-style cod

1. Sauté the vegetables. Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Sauté the finely chopped onion for 10 minutes. Add the green pepper cut into small cubes and cook for 5 more minutes. Add the sliced garlic and sauté for 2 minutes.
2. Tomato. Add the crushed tomatoes and bay leaf. Cook for 10-12 minutes over medium heat, stirring, until the sauce thickens and darkens.
3. Flour. Sprinkle the tablespoon of flour over the sautéed vegetables. Stir well for 1-2 minutes so that it toasts lightly. The flour will help to thicken the sauce later.
4. Cider. Increase the heat and pour in the cider all at once. Let it boil vigorously for 2-3 minutes to allow the alcohol to evaporate. Then reduce to medium heat. The sauce will bubble and the aroma of cider will fill the kitchen.
5. Fabes. If using, incorporate them now. Mix gently and cook for 5 minutes so they absorb the flavors of the sauce.
6. Cod. Place the loins over the sauce (and the fabes), skin side up. Cover and cook over low heat for 10-12 minutes. Gently move the pot in circular motions from time to time.
7. Rest. Turn off the heat and let it rest for 5 minutes with the lid on. The sauce finishes thickening and the cod settles.

Serve in the same pot, sprinkled with fresh chopped parsley.

Cider in Asturian cuisine

Natural cider is not just a drink in Asturias. It is a culinary ingredient as common as oil or garlic. It is used for marinating, deglazing, and stewing. In the case of cod, cider provides three things that no other liquid offers at the same time.

First, acidity. The acidity of the cider counteracts the fat of the oil and the density of the cod. Second, tannins. The subtle tannins from the fermented apple create a barely perceptible bitter undertone that adds complexity. And third, aroma. The fruity and slightly vinegary aroma of the cider perfumes the stew in a unique way.

Do not reduce the cider too much or add it at the end. It needs time to integrate. The 2-3 minutes of initial boiling eliminate the alcohol and concentrate the flavor. Then, gentle cooking with the cod finishes merging everything.

Other Asturian cod preparations

Cod with Coto de Bueño peppers. Bueño peppers are a local variety, long and sweet, which are fried whole and served alongside breaded cod. A fair dish, popular at Asturian summer pilgrimages.

Baked cod with "patatas panadera" (baker's potatoes). Cod loins over a bed of thinly sliced potatoes, onion rings, bay leaf, and a generous splash of cider. Bake at 180 °C for 25-30 minutes. The cider partially evaporates, leaving the potatoes infused with its aroma.

Asturian Tiznao. Flaked cod, rehydrated dried peppers, onion, and garlic, all slowly stewed in olive oil. Similar to Manchego tiznao but with the Asturian touch of smoked paprika. Served cold or warm as an appetizer.

Frequently asked questions

Can I use supermarket cider?

It depends on which one. Natural Asturian cider (from the press, without added gas) is ideal. Carbonated ciders like Ladrón de Manzanas or El Gaitero are different products that will give a sweeter and less complex result. If you can't find natural cider, use dry white wine.

Are the fabes essential?

No. Cod with cider works perfectly well on its own, with some boiled potatoes as a side dish. The fabes make the dish heartier, almost a main course. But if you're looking for something lighter, omit them.

How long should the fabes soak?

At least 12 hours in cold water. Ideally 18-24 hours, changing the water once. Fabes de la Granja are large and dense: if the soaking is insufficient, they will remain hard inside even if you cook them longer.

Can this dish be made with fresh cod?

Yes, but the texture will be softer and more delicate. Desalted cod has a firmness and concentrated flavor that stands up well to the power of cider and fabes. With fresh cod, reduce the cooking time of the fish to 7-8 minutes.

Can it be reheated?

Yes. The fabes and sauce improve the next day. Reheat over low heat and, if the cod has cooled, leave it for 5 minutes in the hot sauce to warm through without overcooking. Add a splash of fresh cider when reheating to refresh the aromas.

How many calories does it have with fabes?

With fabes, about 480-520 kcal per serving. Without fabes, about 340-380 kcal. The fabes provide vegetable protein and carbohydrates, and the dish as a whole is balanced despite its heartiness.