Summary
Asturias has a special relationship with cod. Despite being a land of seafood, "pixín" (anglerfish), and tuna, salted cod has been a fundamental ingredient in Asturian cuisine for centuries. In this guide: Asturian-style cod: when cider embraces cod, Ingredients for 4 people, Preparation of "fabes" (Asturian beans).
Asturian-style cod: when cider embraces cod
Asturias has a special relationship with cod. Despite being a land of seafood, "pixín" (anglerfish), and tuna, salted cod has been a fundamental ingredient in Asturian cuisine for centuries. It entered through the ports of Gijón and Avilés, reached the most remote valleys, and was cooked in ways only Asturians know how.
Asturian-style cod is not a single recipe. It's a range of preparations that share a common denominator: natural cider. Cider, with its acidity and fruity nuances, cuts through the oil's fat, softens the cod's residual salt, and creates a broth with a character that cannot be achieved with wine or water.
The most festive version includes "fabes de la Granja" (the same beans used in "fabada") cooked separately and added to the stew. It's a hearty, winter dish that fills the kitchen with an aroma that anticipates pleasure before the first bite.
Ingredients for 4 people
For the cod with cider:
- 600 g desalinated cod (thick loins)
- 300 ml Asturian natural cider
- 1 large onion
- 3 cloves of garlic
- 1 green pepper
- 200 g crushed tomatoes
- 80 ml extra virgin olive oil
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 tablespoon flour
- Fresh parsley
- Salt and pepper
For the "fabes" (optional but recommended):
- 200 g "fabes de la Granja" (dry) or 400 g cooked
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 clove of garlic
- Salt
The cider: use Asturian natural cider, not carbonated or sweet cider. Natural cider has an acidity and tannins that add complexity to the stew. If you can't find it, a dry white wine with a splash of apple cider vinegar can be a close substitute.
Preparation of the "fabes"
If using dry "fabes," soak them overnight in plenty of cold water (minimum 12 hours). The next day:
- Drain the "fabes" and place them in a pot with cold water covering them by 3-4 cm.
- Add the bay leaf and the whole garlic clove.
- Bring to a boil. Once boiling, reduce to minimum heat.
- Cook for 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours, adding cold water when the level drops (this is called "scaring" the "fabes" and helps them become tender). Do not stir: gently shake the pot.
- Salt at the end, in the last 15 minutes. If you salt at the beginning, the skin of the "fabes" will harden.
The "fabes" are ready when they crush easily with your fingers but retain their shape. The skin should be tender, not hard or wrinkled. If using canned cooked "fabes," drain and set aside.
Step-by-step Asturian-style cod
- Sauté the vegetables. Heat the oil in a large pot over medium heat. Sauté the finely chopped onion for 10 minutes. Add the green pepper cut into small cubes and cook for 5 more minutes. Add the sliced garlic and sauté for 2 minutes.
- Tomato. Add the crushed tomatoes and bay leaf. Cook for 10-12 minutes over medium heat, stirring, until the sauce thickens and darkens.
- Flour. Sprinkle the tablespoon of flour over the sofrito. Stir well for 1-2 minutes to lightly toast it. The flour will help thicken the sauce later.
- Cider. Increase the heat and pour in the cider all at once. Let it boil vigorously for 2-3 minutes to evaporate the alcohol. Then reduce to medium heat. The sauce will bubble and the aroma of cider will fill the kitchen.
- Fabes. If using, add them now. Stir gently and cook for 5 minutes for them to absorb the flavors of the sauce.
- Cod. Place the loins over the sauce (and the "fabes"), skin side up. Cover and cook over low heat for 10-12 minutes. Gently shake the pot in circular motions occasionally.
- Rest. Turn off the heat and let it rest for 5 minutes with the lid on. The sauce will finish thickening and the cod will settle.
Serve in the same pot, sprinkled with fresh chopped parsley.
Cider in Asturian cuisine
Natural cider is not just a drink in Asturias. It is a cooking ingredient as common as oil or garlic. It is used for marinating, deglazing, and stewing. In the case of cod, cider provides three things that no other liquid offers simultaneously.
First, acidity. The acidity of the cider counteracts the fat of the oil and the density of the cod. Second, tannins. The soft tannins of fermented apple create a barely perceptible bitter background that adds complexity. And third, aroma. The fruity and slightly vinegary aroma of cider perfumes the stew in a unique way.
Do not reduce the cider too much or add it at the end. It needs time to integrate. The initial 2-3 minutes of boiling eliminate the alcohol and concentrate the flavor. Then, the gentle cooking with the cod finishes merging everything.
Other Asturian cod preparations
Cod with "pimientos del Coto de Bueño." Bueño peppers are a local variety, long and sweet, that are fried whole and served with battered cod. A fairground dish, popular at Asturian summer festivals.
Baked cod with "patatas panadera." Cod loins over a bed of thinly sliced potatoes, onion rings, bay leaf, and a generous splash of cider. Baked at 180 °C for 25-30 minutes. The cider partially evaporates and leaves the potatoes impregnated with its aroma.
Asturian "tiznao." Shredded cod, rehydrated dried peppers, onion, and garlic, all slowly cooked in olive oil. Similar to Manchego "tiznao" but with the Asturian touch of smoked paprika. Served cold or warm as an appetizer.
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Frequently asked questions
Can I use supermarket cider?
It depends on which one. Asturian natural cider (from a cider mill, without added gas) is ideal. Carbonated ciders like Ladrón de Manzanas or El Gaitero are different products that will yield a sweeter and less complex result. If you can't find natural cider, use dry white wine.
Are "fabes" essential?
No. Cod with cider works perfectly on its own, with some boiled potatoes as a side dish. The "fabes" turn the dish into something heartier, almost a main course. But if you're looking for something lighter, omit them.
How long should the "fabes" soak?
Minimum 12 hours in cold water. Ideally 18-24 hours, changing the water once. "Fabes de la Granja" are large and dense: if they don't soak enough, they will remain hard inside even if you cook them longer.
Can this dish be made with fresh cod?
Yes, but the texture will be softer and more delicate. Desalinated cod has a firmness and concentrated flavor that stands up well to the potency of cider and "fabes." With fresh cod, reduce the cooking time for the fish to 7-8 minutes.
Can it be reheated?
Yes. The "fabes" and sauce improve the next day. Reheat over low heat and, if the cod has cooled, leave it for 5 minutes in the hot sauce to warm through without overcooking. Add a splash of fresh cider when reheating to refresh the aromas.
How many calories does it have with "fabes"?
With "fabes," about 480-520 kcal per serving. Without "fabes," about 340-380 kcal. The "fabes" provide vegetable protein and carbohydrates, and the dish as a whole is balanced despite its heartiness.
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