Suquet de Bacallà: Traditional Catalan Recipe

Cod Suquet: the cuisine of Catalan fishermen

Suquet is one of the oldest dishes in Catalan cuisine. It was born on fishing boats, where sailors cooked the day's catch in a pot with seawater, potatoes, and a basic "sofregit" (sofrito). The word "suquet" comes from "suc" (juice): the dish is defined by its short, concentrated broth, halfway between a soup and a stew.

Traditionally, suquet is made with rockfish: monkfish, scorpionfish, conger eel. But desalted cod is an alternative that has been prepared in Catalan homes for centuries, especially during Lent. Cod gives the suquet a natural gelatin that thickens the broth and gives it body. The result is different from fresh fish suquet, but just as good.

What turns a simple fish stew into an authentic suquet is the "picada": a paste of almonds, garlic, parsley, and sometimes saffron that is added at the end and transforms the broth into something silky and aromatic. Without picada, it's not suquet.

Ingredients for 4 people

• 600 g desalted cod (thick cuts)
• 500 g potatoes
• 1 medium onion
• 2 ripe tomatoes (about 300 g)
• 4 cloves of garlic
• 100 ml extra virgin olive oil
• 1 bay leaf
• A pinch of saffron (8-10 threads)
• 200 ml fish stock or water
• Salt and black pepper

For the picada:

• 20 toasted almonds (skinless)
• 2 cloves of garlic
• A handful of fresh parsley
• 8-10 saffron threads (the same or additional ones)
• 1 small slice of fried bread (optional)
• 2-3 tablespoons of stew broth

The picada is the secret of the suquet. The combination of almonds, garlic, and saffron creates a natural thickener that binds the broth without the need for flour or roux.

The sofregit: the base of everything

The sofregit (Catalan sofrito) is the foundation of the suquet. And it requires patience.

1. Heat the oil in a wide, shallow casserole (the traditional "cassola") over medium heat.
2. Add the finely chopped onion. Cook for 12-15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until golden and soft.
3. Grate the tomatoes (the skin stays in your hand). Add the pulp to the casserole. Cook for 15-20 minutes over medium-low heat, stirring regularly, until the tomato darkens, loses water, and becomes concentrated. You'll know it's ready when the oil starts to separate from the tomato.

Don't rush the sofregit. A rushed sofregit —cooked for 5 minutes over high heat— leaves the stew acidic and with a raw tomato flavor. A good sofregit needs half an hour. It's the step that makes the difference between a decent homemade suquet and a memorable one.

Step-by-step cod suquet

1. Prepare the potatoes. Peel them and cut them into 1.5 cm thick slices. Some recipes call for "cascarlas" (breaking them with a knife) so they release more starch. Both options work.
2. Add the potatoes to the sofregit. Mix them well so they are impregnated with the tomato and oil. Cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring.
3. Add the liquid. Pour in the fish stock (or hot water) along with the bay leaf and saffron. It should cover the potatoes. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and cook for 18-20 minutes until the potatoes are almost tender.
4. Prepare the picada in the meantime. In a mortar, crush the peeled garlic with a pinch of salt. Add the toasted almonds and mash until you get a coarse paste. Incorporate the chopped parsley and saffron. If using fried bread, add it too. Mix with 2-3 tablespoons of hot stew broth until you get a homogeneous paste.
5. Add the cod. Place the cod pieces over the potatoes, skin side up. Do not stir. Cook for 8-10 minutes over low heat.
6. Incorporate the picada. Pour the picada over the stew. Move the casserole in circular motions (do not use a spoon) so that it integrates. Cook for 3-4 minutes more.

The suquet is ready when the broth has a slightly thick, almost unctuous texture. If it's too liquid, carefully remove the cod and reduce the broth over high heat for 5 minutes before reassembling.

The picada: technique and variations

The picada is made with a mortar. A food processor or blender can be used, but a mortar produces an irregular texture that integrates better into the broth. The almonds are partially crushed, with small pieces that add a subtle crunch to the dish.

Variation with hazelnuts. In some areas of Baix Empordà, part of the almonds are replaced by toasted hazelnuts. The flavor is deeper and earthier.

Variation with Maria biscuit. It sounds strange, but in certain homes on the Costa Brava, a Maria biscuit is used instead of fried bread. It provides a very subtle sweetness that rounds out the dish.

Saffron vs. food coloring. Use real saffron. Food coloring provides color but zero flavor. Saffron gives the suquet a floral and bitter aroma that is part of its identity.

Pairing and serving

Serve the suquet in the same clay pot, directly from the stove to the table. It's a dish that doesn't need plating: the steaming pot is its best presentation.

Accompany with a mild aioli (garlic and oil emulsion, without egg) served separately. Each diner adds the amount they want. The aioli dissolves in the hot broth and enriches it in a spectacular way.

The ideal wine is a full-bodied Catalan white. A Xarel·lo from Penedès fermented in barrel, or a Garnacha Blanca from Terra Alta. If you prefer something fresher, a Picapoll from Pla de Bages.

Country bread for dipping in the broth. Essential.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between suquet and zarzuela?

Suquet is a short-broth stew with only one type of fish (or seafood). Zarzuela contains various fish and seafood, more broth, and is usually more festive. Suquet is boat cuisine; zarzuela is celebration cuisine.

Can I use store-bought fish stock?

You can, but choose a good quality one. Industrial fish stocks usually have a lot of salt and an artificial taste. If you don't have homemade stock, use water and enhance the flavor with the picada and a good sofregit. Better water than bad stock.

Can suquet be made with fresh cod?

Yes. Use thick fillets of fresh cod and reduce the cooking time to 6-7 minutes. The broth will be cleaner and smoother, without the intensity provided by desalted cod. Both versions are valid.

What is a cassola and why does it matter?

A cassola is a low, wide Catalan clay pot with shallow edges. It distributes heat evenly and allows the broth to reduce while the fish cooks gently. If you don't have one, use a deep skillet or a conventional clay pot.

Can I add seafood to cod suquet?

You can add some prawns or shrimp in the last 4-5 minutes of cooking. But cod suquet, in purity, is a dish with a single main ingredient. Cod has enough character not to need reinforcements.

Can suquet be reheated?

Yes, and it gets better. The broth settles and the potatoes absorb more flavor. Reheat over very low heat, without boiling. If the broth has thickened a lot in the refrigerator, add a tablespoon of hot water.