Summary: The gilda is the most iconic pintxo in the Basque Country and one of the most perfect appetizers in Spanish gastronomy. Three ingredients on a toothpick: anchovy, olive, and guindilla pepper. Simplicity elevated to art when the ingredients are top quality. This guide explains the correct order, authorized variants, and the best anchovies and boquerones to use.
History of the Gilda
The gilda was born in the Casa Vallés bar in San Sebastián in the 1940s. A regular customer called this pintxo "gilda" after the Rita Hayworth movie: "green, salty, and a bit spicy," like the character. It is the first documented pintxo in history and remains the most popular in Basque bars.
The Three Exact Ingredients
- Cantabrian Anchovy: in olive oil, size 0 or 00. The anchovy is the soul of the gilda. With mediocre anchovy, the gilda is mediocre. See anchovies at Bacalalo.
- Olive: pitted manzanilla or gordal olives, in brine. No stuffed olives or olives in oil.
- Pickled Guindilla Pepper: the Basque piparras (Ibarra guindilla pepper) is the original. Green, elongated, slightly spicy. Pickled guindilla peppers from the north.
The Order on the Toothpick
The classic order: olive → anchovy (zig-zag) → guindilla pepper. The olive at the base provides stability. The zig-zag anchovy maximizes its visual presence. The guindilla pepper tops it off and provides a visual pop of green color. Some bars reverse the order (guindilla pepper first, olive last) for practicality. The taste is identical.
Recognized Gilda Variants
| Variant | Added Ingredient | Origin Bar |
|---|---|---|
| Classic Gilda | Anchovy + olive + guindilla pepper | Casa Vallés, Donosti |
| With caper | + caper | Modern variant |
| With cheese | + cube of Manchego cheese | Modern variant |
| "Bomba" Gilda | + rice ball or small croquette | Basque haute cuisine |
Pairing: The Perfect Drink
Txakoli: the natural pairing. Álava or Gipuzkoa txakoli, slightly effervescent and very dry, is the perfect companion to the gilda. The acidity cleanses the oil, and the bubbles refresh after the guindilla pepper.
Cold Beer: the popular pairing. A cold lager works perfectly with the gilda.
Manzanilla de Jerez: the surprising pairing. The saltiness of manzanilla and anchovy enhance each other.
Bacalalo — Gildas and Bacalalo Appetizers
Selection of gildas, piparras, olives, and premium anchovies to create the perfect Basque appetizer at home.
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Frequently Asked Questions
How many anchovies are in a gilda?
One anchovy per gilda, zig-zag (folded in half) on the toothpick. Some generous versions use two anchovies.
Can gilda be made with pickled boquerón (white anchovy)?
It is a valid and popular variant. Boquerón has less intensity than cured anchovy. The gilda with both boquerón and anchovy together (the "complete gilda") is extraordinary.
Where to buy piparras in Spain?
In Basque product stores, gourmet stores, and online. Ibarra piparras are the benchmark. At Bacalalo, we have pickled guindilla peppers in our appetizers section.
See: Anchovy Toasts | Olives with Anchovies | Anchovy Montaditos
