Portuguese Cod Croquettes (Pasteis de Bacalhau): Original Recipe

Pastéis de bacalhau: history and Portuguese tradition

Portugal is, without question, the land of cod. The Portuguese have a saying: "there is a cod recipe for every day of the year." And among the 365 possible recipes, pastéis de bacalhau (also called bolinhos de bacalhau) hold a privileged place as a national tapa, an omnipresent appetizer, and a gastronomic symbol.

Pastéis de bacalhau were born in the popular kitchens of Lisbon in the 18th century, when salted cod was the staple food of fishermen and working classes. The combination of cod with potato — both cheap and nutritious — produced a substantial appetizer that could be prepared in large quantities and fried on demand.

What makes Portuguese pastéis unique is their radically different technique from Spanish croquettes. They don't contain béchamel. They are not breaded. The mixture is shaped with two spoons into pointed ovals and fried directly, creating an irregular crispy crust that encloses a moist and fibrous interior where the cod strands are perfectly visible.

In any Lisbon, Porto, or Algarve tasca, you'll find pastéis de bacalhau as a mandatory appetizer. They are served hot, freshly fried, often accompanied by tomato rice or simply with a cold beer. In pastry shops and churrerías, you'll even find them at room temperature, as a snack to go.

The quality of the cod is absolutely crucial in this recipe. The Portuguese know this better than anyone: good pastéis de bacalhau require cod with long fibers, clean flavor, and firm texture. The Icelandic cod we sell at Bacalalo is exactly the type of cod used by the best Portuguese tascas — in fact, Portugal is one of the largest importers of Icelandic cod in the world.

Spanish croquettes vs. Portuguese pastéis: comparative table

Although both dishes share a protagonist (cod), the technique, texture, and presentation are completely different:

Ingredients for pastéis de bacalhau

For about 25-30 pastéis

• 400 g dried shredded cod (previously desalted) — higher proportion than in Spanish croquettes
• 400 g floury potato (Kennebec or Agria)
• 2 large eggs
• 1 small onion, extremely finely chopped
• 3 cloves garlic, very finely chopped
• Fresh chopped parsley (generous, Portuguese style)
• Ground black pepper
• 1 tablespoon olive oil (optional, for the dough)
• Oil for frying (mild olive or sunflower, abundant)

Important note: The original Portuguese recipe does NOT include onion, only cod, potato, egg, and parsley. Some modern versions include onion and garlic for more flavor. We give you both options.

Icelandic Cod: the Portuguese choice

Universal Dried Shredded Cod 500g

17.90 €

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Raw Desalted Cod Croquettes

5.90 €

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Preparation: original recipe step-by-step

Step 1: Desalt the cod (24-36 hours before)

Place the shredded cod in a large bowl with cold water in the refrigerator. Change the water every 8 hours, at least 3 times. The cod for pastéis should be well desalted but with a touch of salt — not bland. Taste a fiber before draining: it should taste pleasantly salty, not excessively so.

Drain thoroughly and pat dry with paper towels or a clean cloth, pressing to extract as much water as possible. Wet cod produces pastéis that fall apart in the oil.

Step 2: Cook the potato

Boil the whole unpeeled potatoes in salted water for 25-30 minutes. Peel while hot and mash with a fork. Never use a blender — the starch will activate and the dough will become elastic and gummy. A rustic mash with a few small lumps is exactly what we're looking for.

Step 3: Prepare the cod

Purist version (without onion): Place the drained and dry cod in a bowl. Shred it with your fingers, making sure to remove any bones or skin you find. You want long, loose fibers.

Version with sauté: Finely chop the onion (almost transparent). Sauté it in a tablespoon of olive oil over low heat for 8-10 minutes. Add the minced garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Incorporate the shredded cod and sauté for 3-4 minutes over medium heat. Set aside.

Step 4: Make the dough

In a large bowl, mix the hot mashed potato with the cod (or the cod sauté). Work with a wooden fork, integrating both ingredients but without crushing the cod fibers — they should be visible and palpable in the final mixture.

Add the chopped parsley generously (Portuguese people are generous with parsley), black pepper, and, optionally, a tablespoon of olive oil to give elasticity to the dough.

Separate the egg whites from the yolks of the 2 eggs. First add the yolks to the dough and mix well. Beat the egg whites until stiff (they don't need to be firm, just frothy) and incorporate them into the dough with gentle, upward folding movements. The beaten egg whites are the secret to light pastéis with an airy interior.

Let the dough rest in the refrigerator for 1-2 hours, covered with cling film.

The shaping technique: two spoons

Shaping is what visually distinguishes a pastel de bacalhau from a croquette. The classic shape is a pointed oval, similar to a quenelle, achieved with two soup spoons.

Step-by-step technique:

1. Take a generous portion of dough with one soup spoon.
2. With the second spoon, shape the dough by passing it from one spoon to the other, 2-3 times, forming an oval with tapered ends.
3. Slide the dough directly from the spoon into the hot oil.

If you can't master the spoon technique, you can shape the pastéis with wet hands, forming pointed ovals. The important thing is that they are not perfect balls — the irregular surface creates more contact points with the oil and produces more crispy areas.

Frying: Heat abundant oil to 180°C (slightly hotter than for breaded croquettes, because pastéis don't have a breadcrumb coating to protect them). Fry in batches of 4-5 units for 3-4 minutes, turning them with a slotted spoon. They should be dark golden, not pale — the more intense color indicates that the crust has formed correctly.

Drain on paper towels and serve hot. Pastéis de bacalhau are best enjoyed immediately — unlike Spanish croquettes, they don't improve with resting.

Tips for perfect pastéis de bacalhau

• 1:1 Ratio: The authentic Portuguese recipe uses the same amount of cod as potato. Don't skimp on cod — it's the absolute star.
• Stiff egg whites: This is the best-kept secret of professional pastéis. Beaten egg whites add air to the dough, producing a lighter, fluffier interior.
• Hot potato, cold cod: Mix the freshly mashed (hot) potato with the cold cod. The heat from the potato lightly "cooks" the cod, integrating the flavors without the need for sautéing.
• Handful of parsley: In Portugal, they are not shy with parsley. Use at least 3-4 tablespoons of fresh chopped parsley. It's an ingredient, not a garnish.
• Dry the cod as much as possible: Excess water is the number one enemy. After draining, dry it with paper towels, pressing firmly. Wet cod produces pastéis that fall apart when fried.
• 180°C, no less: Pastéis are fried without breading, so they need a higher temperature to quickly create the outer crust. At 160°C they absorb oil; at 180°C they seal.
• Dark golden, not pale: A pastel de bacalhau should have an intense, almost toasted golden color. Light color indicates insufficient frying, and the interior will be pasty.

Variations of pastéis de bacalhau

Baked pastéis de bacalhau

In Portugal, it's common to prepare a baked version for family meals: the same dough, shaped into larger balls, baked at 200°C for 20-25 minutes with a drizzle of oil. They are not as crispy as fried ones, but they are lighter and very popular as a main dish accompanied by salad.

Pastéis com queijo (with cheese)

A modern variation that adds 50g of grated aged cheese (São Jorge or Manchego type) to the dough. The cheese adds umami and helps bind the dough. They are served in many Lisbon tascas as a premium version.

Pastéis de bacalhau com azeitonas (with olives)

Chopped black olives mixed into the dough. The salty-bitter contrast of the olive with the cod is surprising. Especially popular in Alentejo.

Spicy pastéis

Add a teaspoon of piri-piri (Portuguese chili) or spicy paprika to the dough. This is a variation from Portugal's former African colonies (Mozambique, Angola) that has gained popularity in modern tascas.

Frequently asked questions