Cod Croquettes Arguiñano Style: Step-by-Step Recipe

The Arguiñano style: cooking without complications

Karlos Arguiñano has been teaching millions of Spaniards how to cook for decades on his television show. His philosophy is clear: good ingredients, simple technique, and lots of joy in the kitchen. His recipes shy away from unnecessary sophistication and focus on the product, patience with the pan, and those homemade tricks passed down through generations.

Croquettes are one of the star dishes of Arguiñano's cuisine. His approach is distinguished by three fundamental pillars: a very thick béchamel that allows the croquettes to be formed without falling apart, a double breading that creates that crunchy and unmistakable crust, and a long rest in the refrigerator that facilitates handling the dough and improves the final texture.

This recipe we propose is inspired by Arguiñano's style, adapted to use premium Icelandic cod. It is not the literal recipe from his show, but an interpretation faithful to his principles: homemade cooking, no shortcuts, with top-quality ingredients. Because as Karlos himself would say, "with a good product, half the work is already done."

At Bacalalo, we have been selecting the best Icelandic cod at Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona since 1990. For Arguiñano-style croquettes, dry shredded cod is the ideal option: fine fibers that integrate perfectly into the béchamel and provide that deep flavor that defines a great croquette.

Ingredients for Arguiñano-style croquettes

For about 30-35 croquettes

For the thick béchamel

• 100 g butter
• 120 g wheat flour (high proportion, key to Arguiñano's style)
• 750 ml whole milk (lukewarm)
• Salt, white pepper, and nutmeg

For the cod filling

• 300 g dry shredded cod (previously desalted)
• 1 medium onion, very finely chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• Extra virgin olive oil
• Chopped fresh parsley

For the double breading

• 3 beaten eggs
• Fine breadcrumbs (plentiful, minimum 300 g)
• Flour for the first layer

For frying

• Mild olive oil or sunflower oil (plentiful, for deep frying)

The perfect cod for your croquettes

Universal Dry Shredded Cod 500g

17.90 €

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Thick béchamel, Arguiñano style

Béchamel is the heart of any croquette, and in Arguiñano's style, the key is to make it thicker than usual. While a béchamel for cannelloni or lasagna is fluid, béchamel for croquettes should be almost a solid mass when cooled. This is achieved with a higher proportion of flour to milk.

Step 1: Prepare the cod

Desalt the shredded cod in cold water in the refrigerator for 24-36 hours, changing the water every 8 hours. Drain and dry thoroughly with kitchen paper. In a pan with a drizzle of olive oil, sauté the very finely chopped onion over medium heat for 10 minutes until transparent. Add the garlic, cook for 2 more minutes, and then add the cod. Sauté for 5 minutes, stirring and flaking the fibers well. Set aside.

Step 2: Make the roux

Melt the butter in a large saucepan over medium heat. When melted, add all the flour at once and stir with a wooden spoon for 3-4 minutes. The roux should be cooked well—Arguiñano always insists on this point: an uncooked roux leaves a floury taste. You'll see it form a compact paste and smell slightly like biscuits.

Step 3: Gradually add the milk

Remove the saucepan from the heat. Pour in a third of the lukewarm milk and whisk vigorously. The mixture will initially be lumpy, but keep whisking until it combines. Return to medium-low heat and add the remaining milk in two batches, always whisking between each addition.

Cook, stirring constantly, for 12-15 minutes. The béchamel is ready when it pulls away from the sides of the saucepan and forms a compact mass. This is much thicker than a normal béchamel—it should be difficult to stir.

Step 4: Incorporate the cod

Remove from heat and add the sautéed cod to the hot béchamel. Mix well with the wooden spoon. Add chopped parsley, white pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg. Taste for salt—the cod already adds a good amount, so be careful.

Pour the mixture into a wide dish, spread it with a spatula to a thickness of about 2-3 cm, cover with plastic wrap directly touching the surface, and let it cool to room temperature. Then, at least 4 hours in the refrigerator, though ideally overnight. Arguiñano insists: a well-chilled dough forms much better.

Shaping and breading the croquettes: double breading

Double breading is one of the hallmarks of Arguiñano's style for croquettes. It involves passing the croquettes twice through egg and breadcrumbs, creating a thicker, crispier, and more resistant crust to frying.

Step 1: Shape the croquettes

With slightly damp hands (a bowl of water nearby helps), take portions of dough the size of a large walnut. Shape them into an oval or cylinder, as you prefer. If the dough is well-chilled, it will be easy to handle. If it sticks, dampen your hands again.

Step 2: First layer

Pass each croquette through flour, shaking off the excess. Then, dip it in beaten egg and then coat it in fine breadcrumbs. Place it on a tray.

Step 3: Second layer (the secret to crispiness)

Once all croquettes have been coated with the first layer, repeat the process: egg → breadcrumbs. This second layer makes all the difference. The result is a crispy crust that perfectly seals the creamy interior.

Arguiñano recommends letting the breaded croquettes rest in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes before frying. This compacts the breading and prevents them from breaking open in the oil.

Frying the croquettes: temperature and times

Frying is the moment of truth. Oil at the wrong temperature ruins any croquette, no matter how good the dough is.

Oil temperature: 170-180°C. If you don't have a thermometer, drop a small piece of bread in: it should brown in about 30 seconds without burning. If the oil is smoking, it's too hot.

Fry the croquettes in batches of 5-6 units, without overcrowding. Putting too many at once lowers the oil temperature, and the croquettes absorb fat instead of sealing. Cook them for 2-3 minutes, turning them with a slotted spoon, until uniformly golden.

Drain them on absorbent paper and let them rest for 2 minutes before serving. The inside continues to cook with residual heat, and this helps prevent burns from the hot béchamel.

Arguiñano's tricks for perfect croquettes

These are the principles that define Arguiñano-style croquettes, compiled from years of shows and cookbooks:

• More flour, less milk: The ratio of flour to milk is higher than in a normal béchamel. This results in a firm dough that forms easily.
• Mandatory refrigeration: Minimum 4 hours, ideally overnight. Cold dough is easier to shape, and the breading adheres better.
• Always double breading: Egg and breadcrumbs twice. The first layer seals, the second crisps.
• Fine breadcrumbs: Coarse breadcrumbs result in a rustic finish. Fine breadcrumbs produce the crispy, uniform texture we're looking for.
• Plenty of oil: Croquettes should float in oil. If they touch the bottom of the pan, they stick and deform.
• Few at a time: Maximum 5-6 croquettes per batch. Patience here pays off.
• Never pierce: If you pierce a croquette to test it, the béchamel will escape. Trust the cooking time and the golden color.
• Sautéed onion, not fried: The onion in the sofrito should be transparent and sweet, never crispy or dark. Medium heat and patience.

Common mistakes when making cod croquettes

Even experienced cooks make these mistakes with croquettes. Take note to avoid them:

• Béchamel too liquid: If the dough doesn't pull away from the sides of the saucepan, it needs more cooking. Don't rush—keep stirring over medium heat until it thickens enough.
• Poorly desalted cod: Overly salty croquettes are beyond saving. Always desalt generously and taste the cod before adding it to the béchamel.
• Warm dough when breading: If you try to shape croquettes with warm dough, they will stick to your hands and be a disaster. Respect the chilling time in the refrigerator.
• Cold oil: Frying croquettes in oil that hasn't reached 170°C results in greasy croquettes with a soft breading. Always wait for the correct temperature.
• Opening the croquette to test: If you cut a freshly fried croquette, the liquid interior will spill out. Wait 2 minutes for it to rest, and the texture will be creamy but cohesive.

To avoid the most common mistake of all—using poor-quality cod—the solution is simple. Well-desalted Icelandic cod has long fibers, clean flavor, and a texture that integrates perfectly into the béchamel without turning into mush.

Frequently asked questions