Fresh vs frozen kokotxas: when to use each and

For 35 years at Mercat del Ninot, we've been answering the same question, posed with slightly different nuances but fundamentally always the same: should I buy fresh or frozen cod cheeks? The honest answer is that it depends, but not in a vague or evasive way. It depends on what you're going to cook, when you're going to cook it, and how much control you want over the process.

This guide stems from the real experience of working with cod cheeks every week, talking to chefs from all over Spain, and observing the most common mistakes that ruin a dish which, when well-made, is one of the greats of Spanish cuisine. If by the end you understand when to choose each format and what signs to look for when buying, we will have achieved our goal.

The real difference between fresh and frozen cod cheeks

Let's start with what no one fully explains: the difference is not primarily in taste, but in structure and behavior during cooking. A well-preserved fresh cod cheek has intact muscle fibers, with a natural tension that responds directly to heat. A frozen cod cheek, depending on the freezing method, may have suffered a partial breakdown of those fibers due to the ice crystals that form during the process.

This has very specific practical consequences:

• Water content: When thawed, cod cheeks release liquid. If this liquid accumulates in the pan during cooking, you end up boiling instead of searing or emulsifying. The amount of water released depends directly on the speed at which they were frozen at the source.
• Behavior in pil pil: Pil pil is the ultimate test. This sauce forms thanks to the collagen and gelatin that cod cheeks release when cooked at very low temperatures, with gentle movement. Fresh ones have a higher concentration of this intact collagen. Frozen ones can work perfectly, but only if they are properly thawed and thoroughly dried before going into the pan.
• Post-thawing texture: A correctly thawed cod cheek—in the refrigerator, slowly, without rushing—maintains a firmness very close to fresh. One thawed at room temperature or, worse, under the tap, arrives in the pan soft, with the skin slightly separated from the flesh and with much less potential to bind a sauce.

The practical conclusion: the differences are real, but manageable. The fresh format has a technical advantage. The frozen, when well-treated, is perfectly valid for the vast majority of preparations.

When to choose fresh cod cheeks

There are situations where fresh cod cheeks are unequivocally the best choice. The first and most important is when you are going to prepare the dish that same day or the next. The freshness of cod cheeks has a narrow window: 48-72 hours from when they come out of the water if kept in perfect temperature conditions, and that time passes quickly. There is no point in buying fresh if you are not going to cook them within that window.

Seasonality also matters. North Atlantic cod (Gadus morhua, the reference species) has a distinct seasonality. During the peak catching months—primarily autumn and winter—the fresh cod cheeks that arrive at the market are of exceptional quality: larger, with more natural fat, more collagen. In those months, if you have access to a good supplier, it is worth paying the price difference.

Pil pil in its most classic and demanding version is the preparation that most benefits from freshness. Not because it's impossible to make with frozen, but because the margin for error is smaller with fresh: the emulsion forms more easily, the result is more stable, and the flavor has a depth that is difficult to replicate otherwise.

Finally, if the budget allows and the context justifies it—a special dinner, a gastronomic gift, a celebration—fresh cod cheeks have an experiential component that goes beyond the strictly culinary. There is something about working with a product in its most natural state that connects with cooking in a different way.

When frozen ones are just as good

Let's be direct: for most common preparations, good frozen cod cheeks are indistinguishable in the final dish. The key lies in two factors that do not depend on the cook, but on the producer: the species used and the freezing method.

The difference between IQF (Individual Quick Freezing) and traditional slow freezing is more important than it seems. IQF freezes each piece individually at very low temperatures in a matter of minutes. This forms microscopic ice crystals that barely damage the cell structure. Slow freezing, on the other hand, forms large crystals that break down cell walls, resulting in the soft texture and excess liquid when thawing that we mentioned earlier.

When buying frozen cod cheeks, the question you should ask the supplier (or look for on the label) is precisely this: are they individually frozen? If the answer is yes, you have every guarantee for:

• Stews and casseroles where the cod cheeks are cooked in broth or with tomatoes for a long time.
• Green sauce, where the texture of the sauce dominates the dish and the difference between fresh and frozen is minimal.
• Preparations with other strongly flavored ingredients (peppers, leeks, garlic) that perfectly integrate any texture variation.
• Meal planning: having frozen cod cheeks at home allows you to cook them whenever you want, without depending on market availability that day.

Price is also a real argument. Quality frozen cod cheeks cost between 30% and 50% less than equivalent fresh ones. For frequent use or for families who regularly cook cod, the accumulated savings are significant without sacrificing the quality of the dish.

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Desalted cod cheeks: the perfect middle ground

There is a third format that is often overlooked in the fresh vs. frozen debate: desalted cod cheeks. This format deserves its own attention because it solves one of the most frequent problems in home cooking with cod: desalting.

Dried cod cheeks need to be hydrated and desalted before cooking. The correct process takes between 24 and 48 hours depending on the thickness, with water changes every 8-12 hours, in the refrigerator, with the container well covered. It is a simple process but requires planning and attention. If not done well, the result is a cod cheek that is too salty or, at the opposite extreme, without the optimal salt point that is part of the characteristic flavor of cured cod.

Commercially desalted cod cheeks have a huge advantage: the process has been carried out under controlled conditions, with quality water, at the correct temperature, and with precise control of the final salt point. When they arrive in your kitchen, they are ready to cook directly. You don't need to plan anything the day before.

For the home cook who wants consistent results without the desalting variable, this format is often the best option. The flavor is identical to home-desalted cod when the home process is done well, but without the risk of variability. And the price is lower than fresh cod cheeks, making it an accessible format for everyday use.

How to properly thaw cod cheeks

This point is so important that it deserves its own section even if it seems basic. Most mistakes with frozen cod cheeks do not occur when cooking them, but when thawing them. A good product can be completely ruined at this step if not done correctly.

The correct method is always the same: refrigerator for 12 to 24 hours. The cod cheeks are placed in a container with some space so that the liquid they release does not soak them, and they are left to thaw slowly at 4-6 degrees. This temperature prevents bacterial proliferation while the thawing is slow enough to minimize damage to the tissue structure.

There are two common mistakes that destroy the product's texture:

1. The microwave: Never. Microwave waves create irregular hot spots that partially cook some areas while others remain frozen. The result is a completely ruined texture, with soft and hard parts in the same piece.
2. Hot water or room temperature: Rapid thawing at room temperature or under the tap causes the same damaging crystals as slow freezing, but in reverse. The outer layer thaws and begins to lose liquid while the inside remains cold.

Once thawed, there is one step that makes all the difference in the final result: thoroughly dry the cod cheeks with kitchen paper before they go into the pan. Surface moisture is the enemy of pil pil and any preparation that requires searing or emulsification. A few seconds with absorbent paper remove excess water and allow the pieces to enter the oil under the correct conditions.

Signs of quality when buying cod cheeks

Whether you buy fresh, frozen, or desalted, there are visual and olfactory signs that allow you to assess quality before taking them home. At Mercat del Ninot, we make this assessment every time we receive goods, and over time it becomes almost automatic, but anyone can learn it.

For fresh cod cheeks, look for:

• Color: Uniform whitish-pink, without gray spots or yellowish areas. A soft pink color is a sign of recent freshness and that the piece has not undergone sudden temperature changes.
• Firmness: When gently pressed with a finger, the flesh should return to its original position. If the imprint remains, the piece has lost tension and is not at its best.
• Smell: Clean, marine, mild. A strong ammonia smell or "fishy" odor is an unmistakable sign that freshness has begun to deteriorate. Quality fresh cod cheeks smell of the sea, not a neglected fishmonger.
• Uniform size: Large, regular pieces are a sign of good-sized adult cod. Very small cod cheeks or those with very disparate sizes usually come from lower quality catches or species other than the reference Gadus morhua.

For frozen cod cheeks, the assessment is different but equally important:

• No accumulated ice in the bag or signs that the product thawed and refroze (deformations, solidified liquid at the bottom of the package).
• The pieces should be loose from each other (a sign of IQF) and not forming a compact block.
• The packaging should clearly indicate the species (Gadus morhua), origin, and freezing method if possible.

For dried cod cheeks, the color should be white-ivory, without yellow parts (a sign of fat oxidation), and the texture should be firm to the touch, not soft or sticky.

Where to buy quality cod cheeks

The availability of cod cheeks varies greatly depending on the purchasing channel. In a general supermarket, you will find products, but you will rarely have information about the exact species, origin, or treatment method. In a specialized market fishmonger, you can ask directly and get specific answers. In an online store specializing in cod and seafood, you have the combination of both advantages: detailed information and the possibility of receiving it at home.

When buying cod cheeks through any channel, there are three questions worth asking or looking for on the label:

1. What species are they? The correct answer is Gadus morhua (Atlantic cod). Other species like pollock or blue whiting are cheaper but have a different collagen and texture profile.
2. How were they frozen, if frozen? IQF is always preferable.
3. What is the salt level, if desalted? The correct answers are "cooking salt level" or "ready to cook." A salt level that is too low loses the characteristic flavor of cured cod.

At Bacalalo, we have been selecting cod and its finest parts at the Mercat del Ninot for over three decades, and cod cheeks are one of the products we pay the most attention to precisely because they are difficult to evaluate if you don't have experience. Every batch we receive undergoes a manual verification of size, color, and texture before being put on sale, and both desalted and dried cod versions are available for home delivery with a cold chain guarantee.

Frequently asked questions about fresh and frozen cod cheeks