Summary: Porrusalda is a Basque leek, potato, and carrot soup-stew with a clean and comforting flavor. Adding cod turns it into a complete dish that has been eaten in Euskadi for centuries. Here is the traditional step-by-step recipe, simple and perfect for cold days.
Table of Contents
What is porrusalda
"Porrusalda" literally means "leek broth" in Euskera (porru = leek, salda = broth). It is an ancient stew from the Basque Country, as old as it is humble, that has been cooked in Basque farmhouses for generations.
The basic version contains only leeks, potatoes, and carrots. But the version with cod is the most complete and the most widespread in Basque homes. The cod provides protein, natural salt, and the gelatin that enriches the broth.
Ingredients for 4 people
- 4 large leeks (only the white part and some of the light green)
- 300 g desalted cod in pieces
- 3 medium potatoes
- 2 carrots sliced
- 2 cloves of garlic
- 1 liter of water or fish stock
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Salt and white pepper
Step-by-step recipe
- Prepare the leeks: cut them into 2 cm slices. Wash them thoroughly (leeks often have soil between the layers).
- Sauté the leeks: in a large saucepan, heat olive oil. Add the leeks and crushed whole garlic cloves. Cook over low heat for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. The leeks should be tender and translucent, not browned.
- Add potato and carrot: add the potatoes cut into irregular pieces (peel them with a knife so they release starch and thicken the broth) and the sliced carrots.
- Cover with liquid: add water or fish stock. It should cover the vegetables. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and cook for 20 minutes until the potatoes are tender.
- Add the cod: place the cod pieces on top of the stew. Cover and cook over low heat for 10-12 minutes. Do not stir so that the cod does not fall apart.
- Rest and serve: turn off the heat, let it rest for 5 minutes. Serve with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
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Tips for a perfect porrusalda
- Leeks over low heat: Slow poaching of the leeks is the foundation of the flavor. If you sauté them quickly, they will become bitter.
- Broken potatoes: Do not cut them with a clean knife. Stab the knife in and break off the piece. The irregular edges release starch and naturally thicken the broth.
- Cod at the end: As with all cod recipes with broth, it is added at the end so it doesn't dry out.
- Better the next day: Like all stews, the flavors integrate with resting. Make it the day before.
Frequently asked questions
Porrusalda in Basque gastronomic tradition
Porrusalda is one of the oldest and most representative dishes of Basque farmhouse cuisine. Its name says it all: porru (leek) + salda (broth) in Euskera. It is, literally, a leek broth — and its greatness lies in its simplicity.
This stew has peasant roots dating back centuries, when baserritarras (Basque farmers) grew leeks in their farmhouse gardens and combined them with potatoes and some salted fish. During the winter months, when leeks are at their best, porrusalda was the dish that warmed the kitchens of Bizkaia, Gipuzkoa, Álava, and Navarra.
The addition of cod turns porrusalda into a complete dish: the fish's gelatin enriches the broth, the flakes of cod provide protein, and the combination with the sweetness of the poached leek is one of the most elegant in all of Spanish cuisine. It is no coincidence that Michelin-starred Basque restaurants have reinterpreted this humble stew into haute cuisine versions.
Seasonal variations: porrusalda all year round
Although porrusalda is traditionally a winter dish, it can be adapted to each season:
Winter Porrusalda (the classic)
Thick garden leeks, Kennebec potatoes that fall apart to thicken the broth, desalted cod in thick slices, and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil when serving. Hearty and comforting — perfect for rainy and cold days.
Spring Porrusalda
Replace part of the leeks with tender scallions and fresh young garlic. Add a handful of fresh peas at the end of cooking. The result is fresher and greener, ideal for the first cool evenings of March-April.
Summer Porrusalda (light)
Lighter version: less potato, more broth, and served warm or even cold like a vichyssoise with cod. Add a touch of fresh chopped chives and a drop of truffle oil if you want to impress.
Autumn Porrusalda
Incorporate pumpkin along with the potato. The sweetness of the pumpkin combines extraordinarily well with the leek and provides a beautiful orange color. You can also add some seasonal mushrooms (porcini or chanterelles) for more depth.
How to choose leeks: the key to success
The leek is the absolute star of porrusalda, so it deserves attention:
- Size: Medium leeks (2-3 cm in diameter) are ideal. Very thick ones can have a woody core; very thin ones do not provide enough substance to the broth.
- Freshness: They should be firm, with intact green leaves (not yellowed) and a clean root. Avoid those that are soft or slimy at the base.
- Cleaning: Leeks accumulate dirt between their layers. Cut them lengthwise and wash them under the tap, separating the layers. It's tedious but essential — there's nothing worse than finding grit in your broth.
- Utilization: Use both the white and light green parts. The dark green part is tough and bitter for porrusalda, but save it for vegetable broth.
The best leeks in Spain are grown in the Basque Country and Navarra: the humidity of the Atlantic climate and rich soils produce juicy, sweet leeks with a buttery texture when cooked slowly.
For porrusalda, the ideal cod is thick loin slices of desalted cod, which maintain their shape during slow cooking without falling apart. If you prefer a more rustic result, you can also use Icelandic cod pieces so that they partially flake into the broth.
Frequently asked questions about porrusalda with cod
Can porrusalda be made without potatoes?
Yes, although the result will be lighter and with a less thick broth. Potatoes serve to naturally thicken the broth by partially breaking down. If you omit them, you can thicken it slightly with a little cornstarch dissolved in cold broth, or simply enjoy a more liquid broth with leeks as the main ingredient.
What type of potato is best for porrusalda?
Floury potatoes (such as Kennebec or Russet) are ideal because they partially break down during cooking and naturally thicken the broth. If you prefer well-defined potato pieces, use a waxy variety (such as Monalisa), but the broth will be more liquid and less creamy.
Can porrusalda be frozen?
Porrusalda without cod freezes well for 2-3 months. Freeze in individual portions and thaw slowly in the refrigerator. The potato may change texture slightly, but the flavor remains. Cod should be added fresh when reheating so it doesn't lose its texture.
How long should porrusalda cook?
Total cooking time is 40-50 minutes over low heat. Leeks need at least 25-30 minutes to be completely tender and sweet. Potatoes are added 10 minutes after starting with the leeks. Cod is incorporated in the last 8-10 minutes — this way it cooks gently without overcooking.
What is the difference between porrusalda and vichyssoise?
Vichyssoise is the refined French version: leek and potato pureed into a silky cream, served cold with cream. Porrusalda is rustic: vegetables retain their shape, it is served hot, and it contains cod as protein. They share basic ingredients but are completely different dishes in texture, presentation, and concept.
