Summary: Porrusalda is a Basque soup-stew made with leeks, potatoes, and carrots, offering a clean and comforting flavor. Adding cod turns it into a complete dish that has been eaten in Euskadi for centuries. Here is the traditional step-by-step recipe, simple and perfect for cold days.
What is porrusalda
"Porrusalda" literally means "leek broth" in Basque (porru = leek, salda = broth). It is an ancient and humble stew from the Basque Country, cooked in Basque farmhouses for generations.
The basic version only contains leeks, potatoes, and carrots. But the version with cod is the most complete and most widespread in Basque homes. Cod provides protein, natural salt, and that gelatin which enriches the broth.
Ingredients for 4 people
- 4 large leeks (only the white and some light green parts)
- 300 g of desalted cod in pieces
- 3 medium potatoes
- 2 carrots, sliced
- 2 cloves of garlic
- 1 liter of water or fish broth
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Salt and white pepper
Step-by-step recipe
- Prepare the leeks: cut them into 2 cm slices. Wash them thoroughly (leeks often have soil between their layers).
- Sauté the leeks: in a large pot, heat olive oil. Add the leeks and whole crushed garlic cloves. Cook over low heat for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. The leeks should be tender and translucent, not browned.
- Add potato and carrot: add the potatoes cut into irregular pieces (snap them with a knife so they release starch and thicken the broth) and the sliced carrots.
- Cover with liquid: add the water or fish broth. It should cover the vegetables. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat and cook for 20 minutes until the potato is tender.
- Incorporate the cod: place the cod pieces on top of the stew. Cover and cook over low heat for 10-12 minutes. Do not stir so the cod does not fall apart.
- Rest and serve: turn off the heat, let it rest for 5 minutes. Serve with a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
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Tips for a perfect porrusalda
- Leeks over low heat: Slowly sautéing the leeks is the base of the flavor. If you fry them too quickly, they become bitter.
- Broken potatoes: Don't cut them with a clean knife. Stab the knife in and break off the piece. The irregular edges release starch and naturally thicken the broth.
- Cod at the end: As with all cod recipes with broth, it is added at the end so it doesn't dry out.
- Better the next day: Like all stews, the flavors integrate with resting. Make it the day before.
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Frequently asked questions
Porrusalda in Basque gastronomic tradition
Porrusalda is one of the oldest and most representative dishes of Basque farmhouse cuisine. Its name says it all: porru (leek) + salda (broth) in Basque. It is, literally, a leek broth — and its greatness lies in its simplicity.
This stew has peasant roots dating back centuries, when baserritarras (Basque farmers) grew leeks in farmhouse gardens and combined them with potatoes and some salted fish. During the winter months, when leeks are at their best, porrusalda was the dish that warmed the kitchens of Bizkaia, Gipuzkoa, Álava, and Navarra.
The addition of cod turns porrusalda into a complete dish: the fish gelatin enriches the broth, the cod flakes provide protein, and the combination with the sweetness of sautéed leek is one of the most elegant in all Spanish cuisine. It is no coincidence that Michelin-starred Basque restaurants have reinterpreted this humble stew into haute cuisine versions.
Seasonal variations: porrusalda all year round
Although porrusalda is traditionally a winter dish, it can be adapted to each season:
Winter porrusalda (the classic)
Thick garden leeks, Kennebec potatoes that fall apart to thicken the broth, thick-cut desalted cod, and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil when serving. Hearty and comforting — perfect for rainy and cold days.
Spring porrusalda
Replace part of the leeks with spring onions and fresh garlic shoots. Add a handful of fresh peas at the end of cooking. The result is fresher and greener, ideal for the first cool nights of March-April.
Summer porrusalda (light)
A lighter version: less potato, more broth, and served warm or even cold like a vichyssoise with cod. Add a touch of fresh chopped chives and a drop of truffle oil if you want to impress.
Autumn porrusalda
Incorporate pumpkin along with the potato. The sweetness of the pumpkin combines extraordinarily well with the leek and provides a beautiful orange color. You can also add some seasonal mushrooms (boletus or chanterelles) for more depth.
How to choose leeks: the key to success
Leeks are the absolute star of porrusalda, so they deserve attention:
- Size: Medium leeks (2-3 cm in diameter) are ideal. Very thick ones can have a woody core; very thin ones do not provide enough substance to the broth.
- Freshness: They should be firm, with intact green leaves (not yellowing) and clean roots. Avoid those that are soft or have mucus at the base.
- Cleanliness: Leeks accumulate soil between their layers. Cut them lengthwise and wash them under the tap, separating the layers. It's tedious but essential — there's nothing worse than finding grit in the broth.
- Utilization: Use both the white and light green parts. The dark green part is tough and bitter for porrusalda, but save it to make vegetable broth.
The best leeks in Spain are grown in the Basque Country and Navarra: the humidity of the Atlantic climate and rich soils produce juicy, sweet leeks with a buttery texture when cooked slowly.
For porrusalda, the ideal cod consists of thick-cut desalted cod loins, which maintain their shape during slow cooking without falling apart. If you prefer a more rustic result, you can also use Icelandic cod in pieces so it partially flakes into the broth.
Frequently asked questions about porrusalda with cod
Can porrusalda be made without potato?
Yes, although the result will be lighter and with a less thick broth. The potato serves to naturally thicken the broth by partially breaking down. If you omit it, you can slightly thicken it with a little cornstarch dissolved in cold broth, or simply enjoy a thinner broth with the leeks as the main ingredient.
What type of potato is best for porrusalda?
Floury potatoes (such as Kennebec or Agria) are ideal because they partially break down during cooking and naturally thicken the broth. If you prefer well-defined potato pieces, use a waxy variety (such as Monalisa), but the broth will be thinner and less creamy.
Can porrusalda be frozen?
Porrusalda without cod freezes well for 2-3 months. Freeze in individual portions and thaw slowly in the refrigerator. The potato's texture may change slightly, but the flavor remains. The cod should be added fresh when reheating so it doesn't lose its texture.
How long should porrusalda cook?
Total cooking time is 40-50 minutes over low heat. Leeks need at least 25-30 minutes to be completely tender and sweet. Potatoes are added 10 minutes after starting the leeks. Cod is added during the last 8-10 minutes — this way it cooks gently without overcooking.
What is the difference between porrusalda and vichyssoise?
Vichyssoise is the refined French version: pureed leek and potato until a silky cream is obtained, served cold with cream. Porrusalda is rustic: the vegetables retain their shape, it is served hot, and it includes cod as protein. They share basic ingredients but are completely different dishes in texture, presentation, and concept.
