Summary: At Bacalalo, we have been working with every part of cod since 1990 at the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona. And if there's one cut that sparks more curiosity than any other—and more satisfaction in those who dare to buy it—it's the cheek.
Cod cheek is one of those cuts that experts know and appreciate, but which still generates questions in the general market: "What exactly is it?", "Where is it located?", "Does it taste different?", "How is it cooked?"
This guide answers all those questions.
Table of Contents
What Is Cod Cheek
Cod cheek is the front part of the loin, the area corresponding to the fish's head. Anatomically, it's the area from where the head ends to where the central loin begins, on the dorsal side of the cod.
Visually, when you see a filleted and opened cod, the cheek is the triangular or trapezoidal portion that precedes the upper loin. It is a more irregular piece than the central loin, with more skin and a different proportion of muscle and connective tissue.
Anatomical Position
Imagining the whole cod:
The cheek is not the head (which has few usable edible parts, although it is used for stocks). It is the first piece of the cod's body, the one that connects to the cephalic region.
Why does it have so much connective tissue? The muscles in the anterior part of the cod work more intensely to control head movements, which generates more connective tissue and, consequently, more collagen. This collagen is responsible for the characteristic gelatinous texture.
How to Distinguish It at the Counter
If you buy from a specialized fishmonger:- The cheek is usually thicker at the top and more irregular at the edges.
- The skin has more folds and is thicker than that of the loin.
- The color can be slightly darker than the loin.
- If salted, the cheek absorbs salt differently—it can appear wetter or drier depending on the curing.
Why It's So Gelatinous: The Science of Collagen
Collagen is the structural protein that gives tissues their firmness and, when cooked correctly, their melting, gelatinous texture.
Cod cheek has an especially high proportion of collagen for several reasons:
- Muscular connective tissue: The anterior area has more fascia and connective tissues between muscle groups.
- Thick skin: Cod skin itself is rich in collagen. The cheek has a larger skin surface relative to muscle mass than the loin.
- Adjacent cartilage: In the transition between the cephalic area and the trunk, there are cartilaginous structures that contribute more gelatinizable collagen.
What happens to collagen during cooking? From 60-70°C, collagen begins to convert into gelatin. With moderate heat and time (slow cooking at low temperature or a slow stew), all the collagen transforms, and the piece acquires a melting, almost buttery texture that is impossible to achieve with a loin.
This transformation is exactly what happens in pil pil and long stews.
Cheek vs. Other Premium Cuts: Comparison
| Cut | Collagen | Flavor | Cooked Texture | Relative Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Upper Loin | Low-medium | Elegant, delicate | Firm flakes | High |
| Belly | Medium | Intense, fatty | Melting, juicy | High |
| Cheek | High | Intense, deep | Gelatinous, melting | Medium-high |
| Gulas | Very high | Very intense | Extremely gelatinous | Very high |
| Tail | Low | Mild, delicate | Firm, somewhat dry | Low |
For long stews and pil pil, the cheek can even be superior to the loin because the final gelatinous texture is more satisfying and the flavor more complex.
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Most Suitable Recipes for Cod Cheek
1. Cheek "Pil Pil" Style
Pil pil with cod cheek is different from pil pil with loin. The higher collagen content means that:- It thickens faster and more easily.
- The sauce is thicker and creamier.
- The flavor is more intense.
- Desalt the cheek for 48-72h (it's thicker, so it needs more time).
- Oil, garlic, chili — gently confit the garlic.
- Place the cheek skin-side down in the oil at 65-70°C.
- Gentle circular motion: the cheek will make the pil pil almost effortlessly.
- The thick skin acts as a collagen reservoir that slowly dissolves.
2. Cheek Stew with Piquillo Peppers
The gelatinous texture of the cheek turns any stew into something richer.
Ingredients: Desalted cheek, roasted piquillo peppers, onion, garlic, tomato, white wine, fish stock.
Technique:- Lightly brown the cheek skin-side down in oil. Set aside.
- Deep sofrito: onion, garlic, concentrated tomato.
- White wine, let it evaporate. Piquillo peppers, blend half and slice the rest.
- Add the cheek. Just enough broth to almost cover.
- Simmer gently, covered, for 20-25 minutes. The cheek will release its collagen and thicken the sauce.
3. Confit Cod Cheek with All i Oli
Confit of cod cheek in olive oil at a low temperature (60-65°C) produces a spectacular melting texture that can be cut with a spoon.
Technique:- Gentle olive oil, garlic, thyme, bay leaf. Temperature 62-65°C (kitchen thermometer).
- Submerge the cheek, skin-side down, for 18-22 minutes. The time is longer than for loin due to its greater thickness.
- The cheek is ready when, upon gentle pressure, it yields without resistance.
- Serve with classic all i oli and some roasted vegetables.
4. Light Pickled Cod Cheek
Pickling is a traditional technique that especially benefits gelatinous cuts: the acidity of the vinegar balances the richness of the collagen.
Ingredients: Desalted cheek, olive oil, Sherry vinegar, julienned onion, bay leaf, peppercorns, carrot.
A light pickle (3:1 oil:vinegar ratio) works very well served warm or cold.
How to Desalt Cod Cheek Correctly
Cod cheek, being a dense and thick piece, requires more desalting time than standard loin.
Recommended times:- Large cheek (more than 4 cm thick): 60-72 hours
- Medium cheek: 48-60 hours
- In all cases: cold water, refrigerator, changes every 8 hours.
Desalting test: Cut a small piece from the thickest part and eat it raw. It should taste like cod with a pleasant saltiness, without being overly salty. If it still tastes salty, continue desalting with more frequent water changes.
Common mistake: The cheek may seem desalted on the surface but still be salty inside due to its thickness. That's why it's important to test the interior, not just the edges.
Comparison with Cod Belly
Cod belly is another premium cut with high gelatinousness. It's useful to know their differences:
Belly:- Ventral area (bottom part of the cod)
- Higher muscular fat content
- Richer, almost buttery flavor
- Softer and more melting texture (less muscle fiber)
- Ideal for confit, pil pil, cod carpaccio
- Anterior area (part connecting head and loin)
- More structural collagen (not fat)
- More intense and deeper flavor, less fatty
- Gelatinous texture but with some bite
- Ideal for stews, pil pil, escabeche (pickle)
In summary: the belly is fattier and softer; the cheek is more gelatinous and firm. They are two distinct experiences.
Comparison with Cod Gulas
If the cheek is the first cut of the body, gulas are the chin. Which is better?
Gulas:- Extreme collagen (the highest in cod)
- Very small portion per animal
- Very high price
- Very intense flavor
- Almost liquid texture when cooked well in pil pil
- High collagen (second only to gulas)
- Greater availability and quantity per animal
- More accessible price
- Equally intense flavor but with more "body"
- Gelatinous texture but with a bit more structure
For everyday use, the cheek is the best substitute for gulas when they are not available. And in stews where you need the cut to maintain some shape (unlike gulas pil pil, where they fall apart), the cheek is superior.
Where to Buy Cod Cheeks in Barcelona
Cod cheeks are not easy to find in just any fishmonger. It is a cut that requires butchering work, and not all distributors have it regularly available.
At Bacalalo, we work with cod cheeks when the season and quality allow. It is a cut that we particularly value because it summarizes everything we love about cod: intense flavor, extraordinary texture, and a use that tests (and rewards) culinary technique.
Check availability of cod cheeks and special cuts at Bacalalo
Frequently Asked Questions
Are cod cheek and cod head the same thing?
No. Cod head (with eyes, jaw, and bones) has little direct edible use, although it is excellent for stocks and broths. The cheek is the first part of the body—the muscular piece that connects the cephalic area to the loin. It is edible and of high gastronomic value.
Why is the cod cheek more gelatinous than the loin?
Due to its higher content of structural collagen. The anterior part of the cod has more connective tissue and thick skin relative to muscle mass. This collagen, when cooked with gentle and prolonged heat, turns into gelatin, giving it its characteristic texture.
Can you make pil pil with cod cheek?
Yes, and in fact, pil pil with cod cheek is easier than with loin because it releases more gelatin. The sauce thickens faster and becomes creamier. The flavor is more intense and equally good.
How long does cod cheek need to be desalted?
Due to its thickness, between 48-72 hours. This is longer than standard loin. Follow the protocol of cold water in the refrigerator with changes every 8 hours, and taste the innermost part before cooking.
Does cod cheek have many bones?
It has some rib bones in the transition area to the loin, but they are easy to locate with your fingers and remove. It's not as clean a cut as the upper loin, but the bones are not a serious problem either.
Is cod cheek a more economical cut than the loin?
Generally, yes. Being a less regular piece and less appreciated by the general public (who prefer the loin for its presentation), the cheek usually has a slightly lower price. However, the difference has been narrowing as gastronomic knowledge of cod has grown.
Can I make brandada with cod cheek?
Yes. The extra gelatin from the cheek gives the brandada an even creamier texture than the loin. The result is excellent, although more caloric (gelatin provides body). If you make brandada with cheek, you will likely need less oil to achieve the creamy texture.
What is the difference between cod cheek and cod cheek with skin?
Cod cheek "with skin" retains the thick skin, which is where most of the collagen is concentrated. For pil pil and stews, cheek with skin is preferable. Some chefs remove the skin for cleaner presentations and use it separately (crispy fried skin is an excellent accompanying crunchy element).
How many servings of cod cheek are needed per person?
As a main course, 150-180 g of desalted cheek per person. Remember that cod cheek loses some weight during cooking (water loss). If starting with salted cheek, calculate 20-25% more.
Where else is "morro" (cheek) of cod called?
In the Basque Country, it is also called "morros" and is part of traditional recipes. In Catalonia, it is known as "morro de bacallà". In Portugal, the equivalent part is used in traditional stews. In general, it is a cut more recognized in the cod culture of coastal regions than inland.
At Bacalalo, since 1990, we have maintained that the whole cod is better than just the loin. The cheek, the belly, the gulas—each part has its raison d'être and its perfect recipe. If you want to know what we have available today, visit us at the Mercat del Ninot or check our online store.
