Summary
At the Bacalalo counter of Mercat del Ninot, we receive gilda orders every week from people who discovered them while on holiday in San Sebastián or at a pintxos bar in Barcelona. In this guide: The origin of the gilda: Bar Casa Vallés, San Sebastián, 1946, Why the gilda became the most famous pintxo in the Basque Country, Where to eat the best gilda pintxos in Spain.
The Gilda: History of the Pintxo and Where to Eat It
At the Bacalalo counter of Mercat del Ninot, we receive gilda orders every week from people who discovered them while on holiday in San Sebastián or at a pintxos bar in Barcelona. There's something addictive about gilda pintxos: they're small, concentrated, balanced, and have a history behind them that few Spanish tapas can match. This article tells where they come from, why they're called that, where to eat good ones, and how to replicate them at home with guaranteed quality.
The origin of the gilda: Bar Casa Vallés, San Sebastián, 1946
The history of the gilda has a specific date, place, and protagonists. In 1946, at Bar Casa Vallés on Fermín Calbetón Street in San Sebastián (also known as Pintxos Street), the bar manager, Joaquín Aranburu, began serving pickled Ibarra guindilla peppers with olives and Cantabrian anchovies on a skewer.
At that time, it was common in San Sebastián bars to place pickled foods (guindillas, olives, capers) on the counter for customers to enjoy while drinking their wine or txakoli. What Aranburu did was skewer these ingredients together on a single stick, creating a unified, easy-to-grab and easy-to-eat bite that combined the three dominant flavors: salty (anchovy), acidic (guindilla), and fatty-vegetable (olive).
The name came later and from an unexpected source: the movie Gilda (1946), starring Rita Hayworth. The film was released in Spanish cinemas that same year and caused a sensation. Someone at the bar made the connection: the skewer was, like Rita Hayworth's character, "salty, spicy, and a little green." The name stuck and spread throughout the Basque Country.
Why the gilda became the most famous pintxo in the Basque Country
The success of gilda pintxos was neither immediate nor planned. For decades it was a local, very San Sebastian pintxo, served mainly in the bars of San Sebastián's old town. The expansion came with gastronomic tourism: from the 80s and 90s, when San Sebastián began to receive visitors specifically attracted by its cuisine, the gilda traveled with them.
The factors explaining its success are simple but powerful:
- Simplicity: Three ingredients, one skewer. It requires no technical elaboration or special tools.
- Balance of flavors: The combination of salty, acidic, and fatty is calculated so that no ingredient dominates the others.
- Versatility: It works as an appetizer before eating, as an accompaniment to a beer or a glass of wine, as a stand-alone pintxo, or as part of a varied platter.
- Accessible price: In Basque bars, a gilda costs between 1.50 and 3 euros. For the price, the organoleptic quality is exceptional if the ingredients are good.
Bacalalo Products
Artisan Cheese Gilda Handmade Gou...
€9.75
Caperberries in Vinegar - 1400g (600g Drained)
€9.95
Artisan Pickled Onions - 1.4 kg
€9.90
Artisan Anchovy Gilda Handmade ...
€9.90
Refrigerated shipping 24-48h throughout the Peninsula
Where to eat the best gilda pintxos in Spain
The Basque Country, and especially San Sebastián, remains the reference territory for gilda pintxos. But in recent years, pintxo culture has traveled to other cities, and quality gildas can be found in more places.
San Sebastián (Donostia)
The epicenter. The pintxo street par excellence is the old town (Parte Vieja), where bars like Bar Casa Vallés (the original bar), Bar Txepetxa, Bar La Cepa, or Bar Borda Berri maintain the high standard that has made the city famous. Prices range from 1.50 to 2.50 euros per gilda.
The ritual is to go from bar to bar, have one or two gilda pintxos in each with a glass of txakoli, and move on. This is called "txikiteo" and is a social experience as important as a gastronomic one. In summer, the Parte Vieja can be very crowded; the autumn and winter months are quieter, and the bars are at their best.
Bilbao
Bilbao has its own version of txikiteo, more linked to the bars of the Old Town. The quality of the gildas is excellent, and pintxo culture is deeply rooted. Prices are similar to San Sebastián, sometimes slightly more economical.
Vitoria-Gasteiz
The capital of Álava has its own very solid pintxo scene, somewhat less known than those of Bilbao and San Sebastián but of comparable quality. Vitoria's gilda pintxos tend to be more generous in size.
Barcelona
The Basque influence on Barcelona's gastronomy has grown significantly in the last decade. In the Eixample and El Born, there are several bars specializing in pintxos and gildas. In Mercat del Ninot, Bacalalo makes artisan gildas available for takeaway. The quality of the ingredients determines everything: a gilda with 12-month Cantabrian anchovy is a different experience from one with supermarket anchovy.
Madrid
In Madrid, pintxo culture is imported but has deeply penetrated. Cava Baja street and the La Latina neighborhood have several specialized establishments. Quality gildas of varying degrees can also be found in Mercado de San Miguel and Mercado de San Antón.
How to make gilda pintxos at home: the recipe
Making gildas at home presents no technical difficulty. The key lies in the ingredients, not the preparation.
Ingredients for 12 gildas:
- 12 Cantabrian anchovy fillets in olive oil (anchovy cured for a minimum of 12 months, from Santoña or the Rías)
- 12 green Manzanilla olives (pitted or unpitted)
- 12 Basque guindilla peppers in vinegar (from Ibarra or similar, long)
- Extra virgin olive oil for finishing (optional)
Assembly:
- Lightly drain the guindillas from the vinegar without drying them completely. The vinegar is part of the flavor.
- Take the anchovy fillet and fold or roll it slightly so it has body on the skewer.
- Skewer in order: first the olive, then the guindilla folded into an "S", finally the rolled anchovy fillet. The order may vary according to aesthetics.
- Place on a platter and drizzle with extra virgin olive oil if desired.
The anchovy is key. A properly cured Cantabrian anchovy has a firm but not hard texture, a reddish-brown color, and a deep umami flavor without being aggressive. A low-quality anchovy is darker, softer, and very salty. The difference in the final result is radical.
The gilda as a gourmet product: recent evolution
In recent years, gilda pintxos have undergone a dual evolution. On the one hand, high-end Basque restaurants have created автор versions with top-quality ingredients (long-matured Santoña anchovy, first-press Arbequina olive, fresh guindilla pickled in-house). On the other hand, the format has expanded to new audiences through gourmet e-commerce.
Bacalalo has been part of this second wave: we make artisan gildas that can be ordered online and received at home within 24-48 hours with refrigerated shipping. The concept of quality artisan gilda delivered to your home responds to a real demand: people who have discovered gildas in the Basque Country and want to recreate that experience without compromising on quality ingredients.
Bacalalo Products
Artisan Cheese Gilda Handmade Gou...
€9.75
Caperberries in Vinegar - 1400g (600g Drained)
€9.95
Artisan Pickled Onions - 1.4 kg
€9.90
Artisan Anchovy Gilda Handmade ...
€9.90
Refrigerated shipping 24-48h throughout the Peninsula
Frequently asked questions about gilda pintxos
When exactly was the gilda invented?
The reference year is 1946, at Bar Casa Vallés in San Sebastián. That year, the movie Gilda starring Rita Hayworth premiered, and it's also the year the skewer with guindilla, olive, and anchovy began to be served at that bar. The connection between the name and the movie is documented and is part of San Sebastián's popular history.
Does the gilda always contain anchovy, or can it be boquerón?
Both options are valid and coexist in Basque bars. The gilda with Cantabrian anchovy in oil is the version with a more intense flavor. The gilda with pickled boquerón is milder and more acidic. Many bars offer both. At home, you can make it with either, depending on preference.
Why do bar gildas taste better than supermarket ones?
Primarily because of the ingredients. Reputable Basque bars use long-cured anchovies (12-24 months), firm olives, and pickled guindilla peppers with just the right acidity. Industrial supermarket products use lower-quality ingredients and often preservatives that alter the flavor. Furthermore, the bar serves the gilda freshly assembled; the supermarket one has been in its packaging for weeks.
How long do homemade gildas last?
Homemade gildas prepared with fresh ingredients last between 24 and 48 hours in the refrigerator if stored in an airtight container or covered with cling film. After that time, the anchovy begins to lose texture, and the guindilla releases too much vinegar into the mix. It's best to assemble them on the same day or a few hours before serving.
What drink pairs best with gilda pintxos?
The classic Basque pairing is txakoli, the young, slightly sparkling white wine from the Basque Country (Getariako Txakolina, Bizkaiko Txakolina). Its fresh acidity and low alcohol content cleanse the palate between gildas. Asturian or Basque natural cider also works very well. If beer is preferred, a light lager without much bitterness. Vermouth is also a classic accompaniment in the more Mediterranean versions of this appetizer.
Can vegetarian gildas be made?
Yes. The anchovy is replaced by a vegetable ingredient with a pronounced flavor: cured cheese (Idiazabal, Manchego), sun-dried tomato in oil, large caper, or piquillo pepper strips. The guindilla and olive are naturally vegetables. The result is a gilda with a different flavor but equally balanced and satisfying.
