Summary: "Bacaladerías" are specialized cod shops selling salted cod and cured seafood, an ancient trade in Spain. Although their numbers have drastically declined, the ones that survive offer quality and advice impossible to find in a supermarket. This guide reviews the best cod shops city by city, explains what differentiates them from a fishmonger, and analyzes the future of a trade that is reinventing itself.
Content
- History of Bacaladerías in Spain
- What Differentiates a Bacaladería from a Fishmonger
- Bacaladerías in Barcelona
- Bacaladerías in Madrid
- Bacaladerías in Bilbao and the Basque Country
- Bacaladerías in Seville and Andalusia
- Other Cities with Cod Traditions
- Map of Bacaladerías in Spain
- How to Evaluate a Good Bacaladería
- The Online Alternative: Bacalalo
- The Future of Bacaladerías
- Frequently Asked Questions
History of Bacaladerías in Spain
Before refrigeration, salted cod was one of the few proteins that could be transported and preserved for months. Spain was one of the largest importers since the 16th century, when Basque ships fished in Newfoundland and Genoese merchants brought Norwegian and Icelandic cod to Mediterranean ports.
The cod monger trade solidified in the 18th and 19th centuries in food markets. In Barcelona, the bacallaneries of La Boqueria were a reference since the mid-19th century. In Madrid, Casa Riera Ordeix in La Latina has been around for over a century. The decline came with supermarkets, changing habits, and a lack of generational succession. Of the hundreds that existed, only a few dozens remain today.
What Differentiates a Bacaladería from a Fishmonger
They are completely different trades. A fishmonger sells fresh fish; a bacaladería specializes in cured and salted products. The knowledge required, the product, and the shopping experience are different.
| Criterion | Bacaladería | Fishmonger | Supermarket |
|---|---|---|---|
| Specialization | Salted cod and cured seafood | Fresh fish and seafood | All types of food |
| Knowledge | Expert: origin, curing, cuts, desalting | Good: freshness, season | Basic: label and date |
| Cut | From a large piece, on the spot | Whole pieces or standard filleted | Industrial pre-packaged |
| Desalting | Yes, on request (24-48 h) | Not usually | Only pre-packaged |
| Advice | Cut according to recipe and diners | According to season | Self-service |
| Other products | Mojama, roe, anchovies, blood sausages | Shellfish, cephalopods | Everything |
| Price | Medium-high (quality and service) | Variable depending on species | Lower, lower quality |
The cod monger knows their product like a sommelier knows wine: they distinguish an Icelandic cod from a Norwegian one by its texture and know what salt level each recipe needs.
Bacaladerías in Barcelona
Bacalalo — Mercat del Ninot (C/ Mallorca, 133): our store since 1990. More than 35 years of premium desalinated Icelandic cod, cut and desalinated daily. Also smoked salmon, anchovies, caviar, and gourmet preserves.
Bacallaneria Masclans and Bacallaneria Rafols in the Mercat de la Boqueria: two historical institutions with decades of cutting cod in Barcelona's most famous market. The Mercat de Sant Antoni maintains several cured seafood stalls after its renovation.
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Bacaladerías in Madrid
Casa Riera Ordeix in La Latina is probably the oldest cod shop in Madrid, offering salted Icelandic cod cut on the spot. The Mercado de Maravillas (Bravo Murillo, 122) houses several specialized stalls. The Mercado de la Paz (Salamanca) offers a premium range.
Other markets: Antón Martín, Chamberí, and Vallehermoso. More details in our cod guide in Madrid.
Bacaladerías in Bilbao and the Basque Country
If there's one region where cod is almost a religion, it's the Basque Country. The tradition dates back to the 15th-16th centuries. Pil pil, vizcaína, and kokotxas all require top-quality cod.
Bacalaos Muñoz: a Bilbao institution, specialists in loins for pil pil. Mercado de la Ribera: the largest covered market in Europe, with exceptional cod. In San Sebastián, La Bretxa offers seasonal kokotxas. More in our cod guide in Bilbao.
Bacaladerías in Seville and Andalusia
Andalusia's relationship with cod is marked by Holy Week and Lent. In Seville, the Mercado de Triana is the epicenter of cured seafood: cod, Barbate mojama, bottarga roe. In Malaga, the Mercado de Atarazanas offers Mediterranean cured seafood. In Cordoba and Granada, there are neighborhood bacaladerías with loyal customers. More in our cod guide in Seville.
Other Cities with Cod Traditions
Zaragoza: cod tradition linked to its Central Market and Aragonese cuisine (ajoarriero). Salamanca and Valladolid: maintain cured seafood stalls in their central markets, linked to the Castilian tradition of Lent. Valencia: stalls in the Central Market and neighborhood markets. More in our cod guide in Valencia.
Map of Bacaladerías in Spain
| City | Store / Market | Address | Specialty | Approx. Years |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Barcelona | Bacalalo | Mercat del Ninot, C/ Mallorca 133 | Desalted cod, salmon, caviar | 35+ |
| Barcelona | Bacallaneria Masclans | Mercat de la Boqueria | Traditional salted cod | 50+ |
| Barcelona | Bacallaneria Rafols | Mercat de la Boqueria | Cod and cured seafood | 40+ |
| Madrid | Casa Riera Ordeix | Barrio de La Latina | Icelandic cod, artisanal cut | 100+ |
| Madrid | Mercado de Maravillas | C/ Bravo Murillo, 122 | Several cured seafood stalls | Several |
| Madrid | Mercado de la Paz | Barrio de Salamanca | Premium cod, high-end | 50+ |
| Bilbao | Bacalaos Muñoz | Centro de Bilbao | Loins for pil pil, Basque cuts | 40+ |
| Bilbao | Mercado de la Ribera | C/ Ribera, s/n | Cod, kokotxas | Several |
| San Sebastián | Mercado de La Bretxa | Alameda del Boulevard | Cod, seasonal kokotxas | 30+ |
| Seville | Mercado de Triana | Plaza del Altozano | Cured seafood, mojama, cod | Several |
| Malaga | Mercado de Atarazanas | C/ Atarazanas, 10 | Mediterranean cured seafood | Several |
| Zaragoza | Mercado Central | Avda. César Augusto | Cod, Aragonese ajoarriero | Several |
How to Evaluate a Good Bacaladería
Five signs that distinguish an authentic cod shop:
- Large piece on display: cut on the spot from whole exposed pieces. If there are only pre-packaged trays, it's not a cod shop.
- Knows the origin: tells you if the cod is Icelandic, Norwegian, or Faroese, and explains the differences.
- Variety of cuts: loin, jowl, tail, flakes, kokotxas. Each cut has its ideal recipe.
- Desalting on request: the best offer to desalt the cod for you, guaranteeing the exact salt level.
- Other cured seafood: mojama, bottarga roe, cod sausages. Indicates true specialization.
The Online Alternative: Bacalalo
Most Spaniards don't have a cod shop nearby. At Bacalalo, we combine over 35 years of experience in the Mercat del Ninot with the convenience of an online order with 24-48 hour delivery and guaranteed cold chain.
Our main advantage: already desalted cod, ready to cook. The process requires 48-72 hours of cold water with regular changes. We do it with the method we have perfected over three decades. In addition to premium cod, we offer smoked salmon, anchovies, caviar, and gourmet preserves.
The Future of Bacaladerías
Cod shops face three challenges: generational succession, supermarket competition, and changing habits. But the revaluation of traditional gastronomy, the slow food movement, and specialized online commerce create new opportunities. The hybrid model — physical store + online sales — is probably the most viable future.
What must not be lost is artisanal knowledge: the sound of the meat being cut at its prime, the color that indicates perfect curing, the texture that distinguishes a first-class Icelandic cod. This gastronomic heritage deserves to be preserved.
Frequently Asked Questions
What exactly is a bacaladería?
A store specializing in salted cod and cured seafood products: mojama, bottarga roe, salted anchovies. Unlike a fishmonger that sells fresh fish, a bacaladería works with cured fish that requires specific knowledge of curing, cutting, and desalting. It is a trade with centuries of tradition that is concentrated in food markets.
Why are bacaladerías disappearing in Spain?
Three factors: competition from supermarkets with cheaper packaged cod, lack of generational succession, and changing shopping habits with fewer people in food markets. Of the hundreds that existed in the mid-20th century, only a few dozens remain. Those that survive do so because of the quality of their product and the loyalty of their customers.
Is it better to buy cod from a bacaladería than from the supermarket?
Generally, yes. In a bacaladería, the cod is cut on the spot, the codmonger knows the exact origin and curing point, and advises you on the ideal cut for your recipe. In the supermarket, you buy pre-packaged cod of sometimes unknown origin. The price is slightly higher, but the quality-price ratio is usually better at the bacaladería.
What questions should I ask in a bacaladería?
Four key questions: where the cod comes from (Iceland and Norway are the best origins), how long it has been cured, what cut they recommend for your recipe, and if they can desalt it on request. A good codmonger will answer in detail. If they only point to the counter without explanation, look for another bacaladería.
Do bacaladerías only sell cod?
They specialize in salted cod, but most also sell other cured seafood: tuna mojama, bottarga roe, cod sausages, and salted anchovies. Some modern bacaladerías like Bacalalo have expanded their offering to smoked salmon, caviar, and gourmet preserves without losing their specialization in cod.
Where are the best bacaladerías in Barcelona?
Barcelona concentrates them in its food markets: Bacalalo in the Mercat del Ninot (since 1990, premium desalted Icelandic cod), Bacallaneria Masclans and Bacallaneria Rafols in La Boqueria, and cured seafood stalls in Sant Antoni. Each has its own personality, but all share the tradition of cutting from the piece on the spot.
How much does cod cost in a bacaladería?
It depends on the cut and origin. An Icelandic cod loin costs around €20-35/kg. Flakes and tails are cheaper (€10-18/kg). Kokotxas can exceed €40/kg in season. In supermarkets, prices are lower but with generally inferior product quality and less controlled origin.
Can I buy quality cod from a bacaladería online?
Yes. Stores like Bacalalo offer the same quality as in their physical store at Mercat del Ninot, with refrigerated shipping within 24-48 hours throughout Spain. The main advantage is receiving the cod already desalted and ready to cook, something few physical bacaladerías offer due to logistical complexity.
What is the difference between Icelandic and Norwegian cod?
Both are Gadus morhua and of high quality. Icelandic is considered slightly superior due to the purity of the waters and sustainable fishing: whiter, firmer flesh and a cleaner taste. Norwegian is excellent, with slightly more fibrous flesh. A good codmonger knows these differences and guides you according to your recipe.
What cod cuts can I find in a bacaladería?
A complete bacaladería offers: loin (thick and meaty, for pil pil or vizcaína), jowl (gelatinous, for stews), tail (thinner, for omelets or fritters), flakes (economical, for croquettes or brandade), and kokotxas (throat, considered a delicacy). The codmonger recommends the appropriate cut for each recipe.
Are there bacaladerías in inland cities of Spain?
Yes, with a long tradition. Zaragoza, Salamanca, Valladolid, and other capitals of Castilla y León maintain cod stalls in their food markets. The inland tradition is linked to Lent and the trade routes that brought salted cod from Cantabrian and Atlantic ports to the center of the peninsula.
How can I support the survival of bacaladerías?
The most direct way is to buy from them. Every purchase supports an ancient artisanal trade and ensures that knowledge is passed on to the next generation. Recommend them to friends, value the advice you receive. Many already offer online sales, extending their reach beyond the neighborhood.
Related Guides
- Where to buy the best quality salted cod
- Cod in Madrid: stores and online shopping
- Cod in Bilbao and the Basque Country
- Cod in Seville and Andalusia
- Cod in Valencia
We have been codmongers since 1990. At Bacalalo, we have spent more than 35 years selecting the best Icelandic cod at the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona. Now you can enjoy the same artisanal cod shop quality throughout Spain, with the cod already desalted and ready to cook.
