Summary: Codfish shops (bacaladerías) are stores specializing in salted cod and cured fish, a centuries-old trade in Spain. Although their number has drastically decreased, those that survive offer quality and advice impossible to find in a supermarket. This guide covers the best codfish shops city by city, explains what differentiates them from a fishmonger, and analyzes the future of a trade that is reinventing itself.
History of Codfish Shops in Spain
Before refrigeration, salted cod was one of the few proteins that could be transported and preserved for months. Spain was one of the largest importers since the 16th century, when Basque ships fished in Newfoundland and Genoese merchants brought Norwegian and Icelandic cod to Mediterranean ports.
The codfish trade was consolidated in the 18th and 19th centuries in food markets. In Barcelona, the bacallaneries of La Boqueria were a reference since the mid-19th century. In Madrid, Casa Riera Ordeix in La Latina has been around for over a century. The decline came with supermarkets, changing habits, and a lack of generational succession. Of the hundreds that existed, only a few dozen remain today.
What Differentiates a Codfish Shop from a Fishmonger
They are completely different trades. A fishmonger sells fresh fish; a codfish shop specializes in cured and salted products. The required knowledge, product, and shopping experience are different.
| Criterion | Codfish Shop | Fishmonger | Supermarket |
|---|---|---|---|
| Specialization | Salted cod and cured fish | Fresh fish and seafood | All types of food |
| Knowledge | Expert: origin, curing, cuts, desalinating | Good: freshness, season | Basic: label and date |
| Cut | From the large piece, on the spot | Whole pieces or standard filleted | Industrial pre-packaged |
| Desalting | Yes, on request (24-48 h) | Not usually | Only pre-packaged |
| Advice | Cut according to recipe and diners | According to season | Self-service |
| Other products | Mojama, roe, anchovies, blood sausages | Seafood, cephalopods | Everything |
| Price | Medium-high (quality and service) | Variable by species | Lower, lower quality |
The codfish merchant knows their product like a sommelier knows wine: they distinguish an Icelandic cod from a Norwegian one by its texture and know what salt level each recipe needs.
Codfish Shops in Barcelona
Bacalalo — Mercat del Ninot (C/ Mallorca, 133): our store since 1990. More than 35 years specializing in premium desalted cod from Iceland, cut and desalted daily. Also smoked salmon, anchovies, caviar, and gourmet preserves.
Bacallaneria Masclans and Bacallaneria Rafols in Mercat de la Boqueria: two historic institutions with decades of cutting cod in Barcelona's most famous market. The Mercat de Sant Antoni maintains several cured fish stalls after its renovation.
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Codfish Shops in Madrid
Casa Riera Ordeix in La Latina is probably the oldest codfish shop in Madrid, offering Icelandic salted cod cut on demand. The Mercado de Maravillas (Bravo Murillo, 122) houses several specialized stalls. The Mercado de la Paz (Salamanca) offers a premium range.
Other markets: Antón Martín, Chamberí, and Vallehermoso. More details in our codfish guide in Madrid.
Codfish Shops in Bilbao and the Basque Country
If there's one region where cod is almost a religion, it's the Basque Country. The tradition dates back to the 15th-16th centuries. Pil pil, Biscayne style, and kokotxas demand top-quality cod.
Bacalaos Muñoz: a Bilbao institution, specializing in loins for pil pil. Mercado de la Ribera: Europe's largest covered market, with exceptional cod. In San Sebastián, La Bretxa offers seasonal kokotxas. More in our codfish guide in Bilbao.
Codfish Shops in Seville and Andalusia
Andalusia's relationship with cod is marked by Holy Week and Lent. In Seville, the Mercado de Triana is the epicenter for cured fish: cod, mojama from Barbate, grey mullet roe. In Malaga, the Mercado de Atarazanas offers Mediterranean cured fish. In Cordoba and Granada, there are neighborhood codfish shops with loyal clientele. More in our codfish guide in Seville.
Other Cities with Codfish Shop Tradition
Zaragoza: codfish tradition linked to its Central Market and Aragonese cuisine (ajoarriero). Salamanca and Valladolid: maintain cured fish stalls in their central markets, linked to the Castilian Lent tradition. Valencia: stalls in the Central Market and neighborhood markets. More in our codfish guide in Valencia.
Map of Codfish Shops in Spain
| City | Store / Market | Address | Specialty | Approx. Years |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Barcelona | Bacalalo | Mercat del Ninot, C/ Mallorca 133 | Desalted cod, salmon, caviar | 35+ |
| Barcelona | Bacallaneria Masclans | Mercat de la Boqueria | Traditional salted cod | 50+ |
| Barcelona | Bacallaneria Rafols | Mercat de la Boqueria | Cod and cured fish | 40+ |
| Madrid | Casa Riera Ordeix | Barrio de La Latina | Icelandic cod, artisan cut | 100+ |
| Madrid | Mercado de Maravillas | C/ Bravo Murillo, 122 | Several cured fish stalls | Various |
| Madrid | Mercado de la Paz | Barrio de Salamanca | Premium cod, high-end | 50+ |
| Bilbao | Bacalaos Muñoz | Centro de Bilbao | Loins for pil pil, Basque cuts | 40+ |
| Bilbao | Mercado de la Ribera | C/ Ribera, s/n | Cod, kokotxas | Various |
| San Sebastián | Mercado de La Bretxa | Alameda del Boulevard | Cod, seasonal kokotxas | 30+ |
| Seville | Mercado de Triana | Plaza del Altozano | Cured fish, mojama, cod | Various |
| Malaga | Mercado de Atarazanas | C/ Atarazanas, 10 | Mediterranean cured fish | Various |
| Zaragoza | Mercado Central | Avda. César Augusto | Cod, Aragonese ajoarriero | Various |
How to Evaluate a Good Codfish Shop
Five signs that distinguish an authentic codfish shop:
- Large piece in plain sight: cut on the spot from whole pieces displayed. If there are only pre-packaged trays, it's not a codfish shop.
- Knows the origin: tells you if the cod is Icelandic, Norwegian, or from Faroe, and explains the differences.
- Variety of cuts: loin, cheek, tail, flakes, kokotxas. Each cut has its ideal recipe.
- Desalting on request: the best offer to desalt the cod for you, guaranteeing the exact salt level.
- Other cured fish: mojama, grey mullet roe, cod blood sausages. Indicates true specialization.
The Online Alternative: Bacalalo
Most Spaniards don't have a codfish shop nearby. At Bacalalo, we combine over 35 years of experience in Mercat del Ninot with the convenience of an online order with 24-48 hour delivery and a guaranteed cold chain.
Our main advantage: already desalted cod, ready to cook. The process requires 48-72 hours in cold water with regular changes. We do it with the method we have perfected over three decades. In addition to premium cod, we offer smoked salmon, anchovies, caviar, and gourmet preserves.
The Future of Codfish Shops
Codfish shops face three challenges: generational succession, supermarket competition, and changing habits. But the revaluation of traditional gastronomy, the slow food movement, and specialized online commerce create new opportunities. The hybrid model — physical store + online sales — is probably the most viable future.
What cannot be lost is the artisanal knowledge: the sound of the flesh when cut at its perfect point, the color that indicates perfect curing, the texture that distinguishes a first-class Icelandic cod. That gastronomic heritage deserves to be preserved.
🛒 Products mentioned in this article
⭐ 4.9/5 · Cold shipping 24-48h · Since 1990 at Mercat del Ninot
Frequently asked questions
What exactly is a "bacaladería" (cod shop)?
A shop specializing in salted cod and cured seafood products: mojama (salted tuna), maruca roe, salted anchovies. Unlike a fishmonger that sells fresh fish, a "bacaladería" works with salted products that require specific knowledge of curing, cutting, and desalting. It is a trade with centuries of tradition, concentrated in food markets.
Why are "bacaladerías" disappearing in Spain?
Three factors: competition from supermarkets with cheaper packaged cod, lack of generational succession, and changing shopping habits with fewer people in food markets. Of the hundreds that existed in the mid-20th century, only a few dozen remain. Those that survive do so due to the quality of their product and the loyalty of their clientele.
Is it better to buy cod from a "bacaladería" than from the supermarket?
Generally, yes. In a "bacaladería," the cod is cut on the spot, the codmonger knows its exact origin and curing point, and advises you on the ideal cut for your recipe. In the supermarket, you buy pre-packaged cod of sometimes unknown origin. The price is slightly higher, but the value for money is usually better at a "bacaladería."
What questions should I ask in a "bacaladería"?
Four key questions: where the cod comes from (Iceland and Norway are the best origins), how long it has been cured, what cut they recommend for your recipe, and if they can desalt it upon request. A good codmonger will answer in detail. If they just point to the counter without explanation, look for another "bacaladería."
Do "bacaladerías" only sell cod?
They specialize in salted cod, but most also sell other salted products: tuna mojama, maruca roe, cod sausages, and salted anchovies. Some modern "bacaladerías" like Bacalalo have expanded their offer to include smoked salmon, caviar, and gourmet preserves without losing their specialization in cod.
Where are the best "bacaladerías" in Barcelona?
Barcelona concentrates them in its food markets: Bacalalo at Mercat del Ninot (since 1990, premium desalted cod from Iceland), Bacallaneria Masclans and Bacallaneria Rafols at La Boqueria, and salted fish stalls at Sant Antoni. Each has its own personality, but all share the tradition of cutting from the piece on the spot.
How much does cod cost in a "bacaladería"?
It depends on the cut and origin. A cod loin from Iceland costs around €20-35/kg. Flakes and tail are cheaper (€10-18/kg). Kokotxas (cod cheeks) can exceed €40/kg in season. In supermarkets, prices are lower but with generally inferior product quality and less controlled origin.
Can I buy quality cod from a "bacaladería" online?
Yes. Shops like Bacalalo offer the same quality as in their physical store at Mercat del Ninot, with refrigerated shipping within 24-48 hours throughout Spain. The main advantage is receiving the cod already desalted and ready to cook, something few physical "bacaladerías" offer due to logistical complexity.
What is the difference between Icelandic and Norwegian cod?
Both are Gadus morhua and of high quality. Icelandic cod is considered slightly superior due to the purity of the waters and sustainable fishing: whiter, firmer flesh and a cleaner flavor. Norwegian cod is excellent, with slightly more fibrous flesh. A good codmonger knows these differences and guides you according to your recipe.
What cod cuts can I find in a "bacaladería"?
A complete "bacaladería" offers: loin (thick and fleshy, for pil pil or Vizcaína), neck (gelatinous, for stews), tail (thinner, for omelets or fritters), flakes (economical, for croquettes or brandade), and kokotxas (cheeks, considered a delicacy). The codmonger recommends the appropriate cut for each recipe.
Are there "bacaladerías" in inland cities of Spain?
Yes, with a long tradition. Zaragoza, Salamanca, Valladolid, and other capitals of Castile and León maintain cod stalls in their food markets. The inland tradition is linked to Lent and the trade routes that brought salted cod from the Cantabrian and Atlantic ports to the peninsular center.
How can I support the survival of "bacaladerías"?
The most direct way is to buy from them. Every purchase supports a centuries-old artisanal trade and ensures that knowledge is passed on to the next generation. Recommend them to friends, value the advice you receive. Many now offer online sales, expanding their reach beyond the neighborhood.
Related guides
- Where to buy the best quality salted cod online
- Cod in Madrid: shops and online purchase
- Cod in Bilbao and the Basque Country
- Cod in Seville and Andalusia
- Cod in Valencia
We have been codmongers since 1990. At Bacalalo, we have been selecting the best Icelandic cod for over 35 years at Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona. Now you can enjoy the same artisanal cod shop quality throughout Spain, with the cod already desalted and ready to cook.
