Summary: Esqueixada de bacalao (pronounced «es-kay-sha-da», from the Catalan esqueixar = to tear, to shred) is the great summer salad of Catalan cuisine. It is a fresh, colorful, and flavorful dish where the star is raw, desalted cod, hand-shredded and dressed with tomato, onion, bell pepper, black olives, and a good extra virgin olive oil. It requires no cooking whatsoever: it is a completely raw preparation.
Contents
- What is esqueixada and why is cod eaten raw?
- History and Catalan tradition
- Ingredients for 4 people
- Step-by-step preparation
- How to prepare cod for esqueixada
- Tips for the best esqueixada
- Variations of esqueixada
- Food safety: Is it safe to eat raw cod?
- Nutritional information
- Frequently asked questions
- Conclusions
What is esqueixada and why is cod eaten raw?
Esqueixada de bacalao (pronounced «es-kay-sha-da», from the Catalan esqueixar = to tear, to shred) is the great summer salad of Catalan cuisine. It is a fresh, colorful, and flavorful dish where the star is raw, desalted cod, hand-shredded and dressed with tomato, onion, bell pepper, black olives, and a good extra virgin olive oil. It requires no cooking whatsoever: it is a completely raw preparation.
The idea of eating raw cod might be surprising, but the salting and desalting process that cod undergoes completely changes the structure of its proteins. It is not fresh raw fish: it is a product that has been cured in salt for weeks, giving it a firm texture, concentrated, and safe to consume without cooking. At Mercat del Ninot, we prepare esqueixada throughout the summer, and it is one of our most requested dishes.
History and Catalan tradition
Esqueixada is a dish with deep roots in popular Catalan cuisine. It originated as a peasant dish: in the warm months, farm workers needed a nutritious, fresh dish that didn't require cooking. Salted cod, which could be preserved all year without refrigeration, was the perfect ingredient. It was shredded, mixed with garden vegetables, and dressed with local olive oil.
Today, esqueixada has a very different status: it is featured on the menus of the best Catalan restaurants and is a dish that identifies Catalonia's gastronomy. Each region has its own version: with mongetes (white beans) in the interior, with Arbequina olives in Empordà, with escalivada in Baix Camp. The base is always the same: raw shredded cod with fresh vegetables.
Ingredients for 4 people
- 300 g of desalted cod for esqueixada (flakes or thin loin)
- 3 ripe vine tomatoes (or 4 plum tomatoes)
- 1 spring onion or 1/2 white onion
- 1 Italian green pepper
- 100 g of black Aragon or Arbequina olives
- Extra virgin olive oil (generous amount)
- Red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar (1-2 tablespoons)
- Salt (only if necessary, the cod already has some)
Related Bacalalo Products
Step-by-step preparation
1. Shred the cod
If using loins, cut them into pieces and shred them with your hands, following the fish's natural fibers. The result should be long, irregular strips, not cubes. If using flakes, simply separate them with your fingers. The dish's name comes precisely from this action: esqueixar means to tear or shred.
2. Soak in cold water (optional, 10 min)
If your cod is still a bit salty, soak it in cold water for 10 minutes. If using Bacalalo desalted cod, it will already be perfectly seasoned and won't need this step.
3. Prepare the vegetables
Cut the tomatoes into 1-2 cm cubes. Slice the onion very thinly (the thinner, the less aggressive to the palate). Cut the green pepper into small cubes or thin strips. If the onion is very strong, soak it in water with vinegar for 10 minutes to soften it.
4. Mix everything
In a large bowl, combine the shredded cod, tomato, onion, pepper, and olives. Dress generously with extra virgin olive oil and a splash of vinegar. Mix gently so as not to break the cod fibers.
5. Chill in the refrigerator (minimum 30 minutes)
Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes (ideally 1-2 hours). Chilling allows the flavors to meld: the cod absorbs the vinegar and tomato juices, the vegetables marinate slightly, and the whole dish becomes more harmonious. Serve well chilled.
How to prepare cod for esqueixada
The cod for esqueixada requires precise desalting. Since it is eaten raw, any excess or lack of salt is much more noticeable than in a cooked dish:
- Ideal saltiness: slightly salty, but pleasant. It should have more salt than fresh fish but not be uncomfortably salty.
- Texture: firm but not tough. The fibers should separate easily.
- Temperature: always cold, directly from the refrigerator.
- Cut: flakes or thin loin are best. Thick loins need more shredding and can be irregular.
At Bacalalo, we have a specific product for esqueixada: shredded cod ready for esqueixada, with the perfect saltiness and texture for raw consumption.
Tips for the best esqueixada
- Ripe, seasonal tomatoes: Esqueixada is a summer dish. Out-of-season (winter) tomatoes lack the necessary sweetness and juiciness. If it's not tomato season, it's better to make another recipe.
- Spring onion: Spring onions (with green stalks) are much milder and sweeter than dry onions. If you only have dry onions, soak them in water with vinegar.
- Arbequina olive oil: The quintessential Catalan oil for esqueixada. Smooth, fruity, and with an almond note that pairs perfectly with raw cod.
- Mandatory resting time: Don't skip the 1-2 hours in the refrigerator. Resting is what transforms loose ingredients into a cohesive dish.
- No extra salt: The cod already has salt. Only add salt if, after tasting, you feel it needs more.
- Whole olives: Cut olives release liquid that dilutes the dressing. Leave them whole and let each diner bite into them.
Variations of esqueixada
Esqueixada with mongetes (white beans)
The most traditional version from inland Catalonia. Add cooked mongetes del ganxet (or good quality canned white beans). The beans add creaminess and make the dish heartier.
Esqueixada with escalivada
Substitute raw vegetables with escalivada (roasted eggplant and red pepper). The combination of salty raw cod with the smoky sweetness of escalivada is exceptional.
Esqueixada with orange
A modern version that adds orange segments and a dressing with orange juice instead of vinegar. The citric acid enhances the cod's flavor and provides a refreshing sweet note.
Esqueixada tartare style
For a more elegant presentation: cut the cod into small cubes (instead of shredding), mix with diced tomato, chopped spring onion, capers, and a lemon dressing. Plate it with a ring mold.
Food safety: Is it safe to eat raw cod?
Yes, desalted cod can be consumed raw with complete safety. The reason is the salting process it has undergone:
- Salt eliminates anisakis: The traditional salting process (more than 4 weeks in dry salt) dehydrates and eliminates any anisakis larvae that fresh fish might contain.
- Freezing as a double safety measure: At Bacalalo, in addition to salting, our cod has been previously frozen at -20 °C for more than 5 days, which is the protocol required by Spanish legislation for raw consumption.
- It's not sashimi: Unlike fresh raw fish (sashimi), desalted cod has undergone a curing process that changes its protein structure. It is a transformed product, not fresh fish.
Nutritional information
Esqueixada is a light, fresh, and nutritionally balanced dish:
- Calories: 200-250 kcal per serving
- Protein: 20-25 g from the cod
- Fats: 10-14 g (from olive oil and olives)
- Carbohydrates: 8-12 g (from vegetables)
- Vitamin C: good source from raw tomato and pepper
Since it's not cooked, the vegetables retain all their vitamins (cooking destroys some vitamin C). It is one of the lightest and healthiest cod dishes.
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Conclusions
- What is esqueixada and why is cod eaten raw: Esqueixada de bacalao (pronounced "es-kay-sha-da", from the Catalan esqueixar = to tear, to shred) is the great summer salad of Catalan cuisine.
- History and Catalan tradition: Esqueixada is a dish with deep roots in popular Catalan cuisine.
- Ingredients for 4 people: If using loins, cut them into pieces and shred them with your hands, following the fish's natural fibers.
- How to prepare cod for esqueixada: The cod for esqueixada requires precise desalting.
- Tips for the best esqueixada: The most traditional version from inland Catalonia.
Frequently asked questions
Can desalted cod be eaten raw?
Yes, with complete safety. The salting process (more than 4 weeks in salt) and subsequent freezing eliminate any risk of anisakis. Desalted cod is a cured product, not fresh raw fish.
What part of the cod should be used for esqueixada?
Flakes are the most practical and economical option. If you prefer to shred it yourself, use thin loin or cod specifically for esqueixada. Nutritional information Frequently asked questions Conclusions What is esqueixada and why is cod eaten raw? Esqueixada de bacalao (pronounced "es-kay-sha-da", from the Catalan esqueixar = to tear, to shred) is the great summer salad of Catalan cuisine.
Can esqueixada be prepared in advance?
Yes, and in fact, it's recommended. Prepare it 2-4 hours beforehand and keep it in the refrigerator. It improves with resting. It keeps well for up to 24 hours in the refrigerator. How to prepare cod for esqueixada The cod for esqueixada requires precise desalting.
When is esqueixada season?
Esqueixada is a summer dish, when tomatoes are at their best (June-September). Out of season, tomatoes don't have the necessary sweetness or juiciness. Tips for the best esqueixada: Ripe, seasonal tomatoes: esqueixada is a summer dish.
Does esqueixada have vinegar?
Yes, traditionally a splash of red wine vinegar. Some chefs use sherry vinegar or lemon in modern versions. The acid contrasts with the saltiness of the cod. Esqueixada with orange: A modern version that adds orange segments and a dressing with orange juice instead of vinegar.
Buy cod for esqueixada at Bacalalo.
→ Prepare it with Bacalalo products: Traditional cod esqueixada | Esqueixada with grated tomato
