Summary: Esqueixada de bacalao (pronounced "es-quei-xà-da," from the Catalan word esqueixar , meaning to tear or shred) is the quintessential summer salad of Catalan cuisine. It's a fresh, colorful, and flavorful dish where the star ingredient is raw, desalted cod , shredded by hand and dressed with tomato, onion, bell pepper, black olives, and a good extra virgin olive oil. It's completely uncooked; it's prepared entirely raw.
Content
- What is esqueixada and why is the cod eaten raw?
- Catalan history and tradition
- Ingredients for 4 people
- Step-by-step preparation
- How to prepare cod for esqueixada
- Tips for the best esqueixada
- Variations of esqueixada
- Food safety: Is it safe to eat raw cod?
- Nutritional Information
- Frequently Asked Questions
- Conclusions
What is esqueixada and why is the cod eaten raw?
Esqueixada de bacalao (pronounced "es-quei-xà-da," from the Catalan word esqueixar , meaning to tear or shred) is the quintessential summer salad of Catalan cuisine. It's a fresh, colorful, and flavorful dish where the star ingredient is raw, desalted cod , shredded by hand and dressed with tomato, onion, bell pepper, black olives, and a good extra virgin olive oil. It's prepared entirely without cooking.
The idea of eating raw cod might surprise you, but the salting and desalting process that cod undergoes completely changes the structure of its proteins. It's not raw, fresh fish: it's a product that has been cured in salt for weeks, giving it a firm, concentrated texture that's safe to eat without cooking. At Mercat del Ninot, we prepare esqueixada throughout the summer, and it's one of our most popular dishes.
Catalan history and tradition
Esqueixada is a dish with deep roots in traditional Catalan cuisine. It originated as a peasant dish: during the hot months, farm workers needed a nutritious, fresh meal that didn't require cooking. Salt cod , which could be kept year-round without refrigeration, was the perfect ingredient. It was shredded, mixed with garden vegetables, and dressed with local olive oil.
Today, esqueixada has a very different status: it's featured on the menus of the best Catalan restaurants and is a dish that embodies Catalan cuisine. Each region has its own version: with mongetes (white beans) in the interior, with Arbequina olives in the Empordà, with escalivada in the Baix Camp. The base is always the same: shredded raw cod with fresh vegetables.
Ingredients for 4 people
- 300 g of desalted cod for esqueixada (crumbs or thin loin)
- 3 ripe vine tomatoes (or 4 pear tomatoes)
- 1 spring onion or 1/2 white onion
- 1 Italian green pepper
- 100 g of black Aragon or Arbequina olives
- Extra virgin olive oil (generous)
- Red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar (1-2 tablespoons)
- Salt (only if necessary, the cod already has some)
Related Cod Products
Step-by-step preparation
1. Shred the cod
If you're using fillets, cut them into pieces and shred them with your hands, following the natural fibers of the fish. The result should be long, irregular strips, not cubes. If you're using flakes , simply separate them with your fingers. The dish's name comes precisely from this gesture: esqueixar means to tear apart.
2. Soak in cold water (optional, 10 min)
If your cod is still a little salty, soak it in cold water for 10 minutes. If you're using pre-salted cod from Bacalalo , it will already be at the perfect point and won't need this step.
3. Prepare the vegetables
Dice the tomatoes into 1-2 cm cubes. Slice the onion very thinly (the thinner the slices, the milder the flavor). Dice the green bell pepper into small cubes or thin strips. If the onion is very strong, soak it in water with vinegar for 10 minutes to soften it.
4. Mix everything
In a large bowl, combine the shredded cod, tomato, onion, bell pepper, and olives. Dress with a generous amount of extra virgin olive oil and a splash of vinegar. Mix gently so as not to break down the cod fibers.
5. Let it rest in the refrigerator (at least 30 minutes)
Cover the bowl and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes (ideally 1-2 hours). Chilling allows the flavors to meld: the cod absorbs the vinegar and tomato juices, the vegetables marinate lightly, and the whole dish becomes more harmonious. Serve chilled.
How to prepare cod for esqueixada
The cod in esqueixada needs precise desalting. When eaten raw, any excess or deficiency of salt is much more noticeable than in a cooked dish.
- Ideal salt level: slightly salty, but pleasant. It should be saltier than fresh fish but not unpleasant.
- Texture: firm but not hard. The fibers should separate easily.
- Temperature: always cold, straight from the refrigerator.
- Cuts: crumbs or thin loin are best. Thick loins need to be shredded more and sometimes end up uneven.
At Bacalalo we have a specific product for esqueixada: shredded cod ready for esqueixada , with the perfect salt level and texture to consume raw.
Tips for the best esqueixada
- Ripe, in-season tomatoes: esqueixada is a summer dish. Out-of-season tomatoes (winter tomatoes) lack the necessary sweetness and juiciness. If they're not in season, it's best to make another recipe.
- Spring onion: Spring onions (with green stalks) are much milder and sweeter than dried onions. If you only have dried onions, soak them in water with vinegar.
- Arbequina olive oil: the quintessential Catalan oil for esqueixada. Smooth, fruity, and with a hint of almond that pairs perfectly with raw cod.
- Mandatory resting time: don't skip the 1-2 hours in the refrigerator. Resting is what transforms loose ingredients into a cohesive dish.
- No salt: the cod already has salt. Only add salt if, after tasting, you think it needs more.
- Whole olives: cut olives release liquid that dilutes the dressing. Leave them whole and let each diner bite into them.
Variations of esqueixada
Esqueixada with mongetes (white beans)
The most traditional version from inland Catalonia. Add cooked mongetes del ganxet beans (or good quality canned white beans). The beans add creaminess and make the dish more substantial.
Esqueixada with escalivada
Substitute the raw vegetables with escalivada (roasted eggplant and red pepper). The combination of raw salted cod with the smoky sweetness of the escalivada is exceptional.
Esqueixada with orange
A modern version that adds orange segments and a dressing made with orange juice instead of vinegar. The citric acid enhances the flavor of the cod and provides a refreshing touch of sweetness.
Esqueixada tartar style
For a more elegant presentation: dice the cod (instead of shredding it), mix with diced tomatoes, chopped spring onion, capers, and a lemon dressing. Arrange it on a plate using a ring mold.
Food safety: Is it safe to eat raw cod?
Yes, desalted cod can be safely eaten raw. The reason is the salting process it has undergone:
- Salt eliminates anisakis: the traditional salting process (more than 4 weeks in dry salt) dehydrates and eliminates any anisakis larvae that the fresh fish might contain.
- Freezing as double safety: at Bacalalo, in addition to salting, our cod has been previously frozen at -20 °C for more than 5 days, which is the protocol required by Spanish legislation for raw consumption.
- It's not sashimi: unlike raw fresh fish (sashimi), desalted cod has undergone a curing process that alters its protein structure. It's a processed product, not fresh fish.
Nutritional Information
Esqueixada is a light, fresh and nutritionally balanced dish:
- Calories: 200-250 kcal per serving
- Protein: 20-25 g from the cod
- Fats: 10-14 g (from olive oil and olives)
- Carbohydrates: 8-12 g (from vegetables)
- Vitamin C: a good source of raw tomatoes and peppers
Because it's uncooked, the vegetables retain all their vitamins (cooking destroys some of the vitamin C). It's one of the lightest and healthiest cod dishes.
Conclusions
- What is esqueixada and why is the cod eaten raw: Esqueixada de bacalao (pronounced «es-quei-xà-da», from the Catalan esqueixar = to tear, to shred) is the great summer salad of Catalan cuisine.
- Catalan history and tradition: Esqueixada is a dish with deep roots in popular Catalan cuisine.
- Ingredients for 4 people: If you use fillets, cut them into pieces and shred them with your hands, following the natural fibers of the fish.
- How to prepare cod for esqueixada: The cod for esqueixada needs precise desalting.
- Tips for making the best esqueixada: The most traditional version from inland Catalonia.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can you eat raw desalted cod?
Yes, absolutely. The salting process (more than four weeks in salt) and subsequent freezing eliminate any risk of anisakis . Salted cod is a cured product, not raw fresh fish.
What part of the cod to use for esqueixada?
Crumbs are the most practical and economical option. If you prefer to shred the cod yourself, use tenderloin or cod specifically for esqueixada . Nutritional information Frequently asked questions Conclusions What is esqueixada and why is the cod eaten raw? Esqueixada de bacalao (pronounced "es-quei-xà-da", from the Catalan esqueixar = to tear, to shred) is the great summer salad of Catalan cuisine.
Can esqueixada be prepared in advance?
Yes, and it's actually recommended. Prepare it 2-4 hours in advance and keep it in the refrigerator. It improves with resting. It keeps well for up to 24 hours in the refrigerator. How to prepare cod for esqueixada: The cod for esqueixada needs precise desalting.
When is esqueixada season?
Esqueixada is a summer dish, made when tomatoes are at their peak (June-September). Out of season, tomatoes lack the necessary sweetness and juiciness. Tips for the best esqueixada: Use ripe, seasonal tomatoes: esqueixada is a summer dish.
Does esqueixada contain vinegar?
Yes, traditionally a splash of red wine vinegar. Some cooks use sherry vinegar or lemon in modern versions. The acidity contrasts with the saltiness of the cod. Esqueixada with orange: A modern version that adds orange segments and a dressing made with orange juice instead of vinegar.
Buy cod for esqueixada at Bacalalo .
→ Prepare it with cod products: Traditional cod esqueixada | Esqueixada with grated tomato
