What are kokotxas? Anatomy of a Basque delicacy
Kokotxas (kokotxas in Basque) are the lower part of the fish's jaw, just below the chin, where the muscle inserts into the skull. It is a small piece (10-30g per unit) very rich in collagen, gelatin, and concentrated flavor. Only two fish have commercially relevant kokotxas: cod and hake.
The Basque and Cantabrian regions are the main consumers and developers of the recipe. The most famous preparation is pil pil, although they also work well in salsa verde, battered, or baked with parsley. By tradition, they are a celebratory ingredient: expensive, scarce, and technically difficult.
Key differences between cod and hake kokotxas
| Characteristic | Cod kokotxas | Hake kokotxas |
|---|---|---|
| Size | Large (25-40g) | Small (10-20g) |
| Color | Yellowish white, shiny | Translucent white |
| Texture | Firm, gelatinous | Delicate, soft |
| Flavor | Intense, with character | Subtle, fine |
| Best in | Pil pil, salsa verde, battered | Salsa verde, grilled |
| Price (kg, fresh) | €35-55 | €60-90 |
| Availability | Higher (Iceland, Norway, North) | Lower (Galicia, North) |
The main difference is intensity: cod kokotxas have a deeper flavor and can withstand slightly longer cooking times; hake kokotxas are delicate and break easily if handled improperly.
Dried Cod Kokotxas (1 tub) - 500g
Direct selection from Bacalalo, verified quality.
When to choose each: pil pil vs salsa verde
The choice between cod and hake is not just about taste: each type shines in a specific preparation.
Pil pil (best with cod kokotxas): Pil pil needs abundant gelatin to emulsify with the oil. Cod kokotxas are the queens: they release dense gelatin when cooked at 65-70°C in oil with garlic and chili pepper. After 8-10 minutes over low heat, you swirl the saucepan in circles and the gelatin will bind the oil, forming a silky yellow-white sauce.
Salsa verde (both work, hake is finer): Salsa verde is based on oil, garlic, parsley, and fish stock. Hake kokotxas, due to their delicacy, look better in this preparation: 4-5 minutes in salsa verde and they are ready to serve. Cod kokotxas also work, but they compete with the sauce for prominence.
Battered kokotxas: the easiest option
If this is your first time with kokotxas, battered ones are the safe bet:
The batter protects the kokotxa from direct frying, prevents it from drying out, and adds crunch. It is the preparation that best expresses the flavor difference between cod (more potent) and hake (finer).
Desalted Cod Kokotxas - 500g
Direct selection from Bacalalo, verified quality.
Price and availability: why so expensive?
Kokotxas are expensive for two reasons:
- Low yield per piece: A 5 kg cod yields only 80-120g of kokotxas. A 3 kg hake yields barely 40-60g. It is a tiny piece compared to the total weight of the fish.
- Labor: Manual butchering is delicate. An expert worker processes 5-8 kg of fish to obtain 1 kg of kokotxas. Labor costs are significant.
Wholesale market prices (fresh, 2026):
- Northern cod kokotxas: €35-50/kg
- Iceland/Norway cod kokotxas: €28-42/kg
- Fresh hake kokotxas: €60-90/kg
- Frozen hake kokotxas: €35-55/kg
In preserved form (natural or in oil), prices are more stable and allow consumption at any time of the year.
Fresh, desalted or dried: which to buy
There are three main commercial formats for cod kokotxas:
Fresh (refrigerated): Those sold in quality fishmongers or Basque restaurants. They expire in 2-3 days. For demanding pil pil, these are the best.
Desalted (vacuum-packed): They come pre-soaked, ready to cook. They expire in 5-7 days. Excellent quality/convenience compromise. This is what is most sold in online gourmet stores.
Dried (salted): They need desalting (24-36h with 3-4 water changes). More concentrated flavor. For purists with time.
Hake kokotxas are almost always sold fresh or frozen, rarely salted.
Three star recipes for each type
With cod kokotxas:
- Classic pil pil kokotxas with chili and garlic
- Kokotxas with clams in salsa verde and boiled potato
- Battered kokotxas with saffron mayonnaise
With hake kokotxas:
- Hake kokotxas with salsa verde and peas
- Grilled kokotxas with garlic and cayenne pepper
- Kokotxas with onion foam and green oil (modern version)
Verdict: which to choose?
If you're making pil pil or want a more robust flavor experience, cod kokotxas are your choice. More affordable, easier to find, easier to cook, and with more room for error.
If you want a delicate and fine experience, or are making an elegant preparation with salsa verde, hake kokotxas are superior in delicacy, although they cost almost double.
At Bacalalo, we work with desalted and dried cod kokotxas from Iceland and Norway, large sizes, ready for pil pil. To start in this world, it is an unbeatable option.
Dried Cod Kokotxas (1 tub) - 500g
Direct selection from Bacalalo, verified quality.
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Frequently asked questions
What part of the fish are kokotxas exactly?
They are the lower muscular part of the jaw, just below the chin, where it connects to the skull. It is a unique muscle, rich in collagen and gelatin.
How many kokotxas are there in a cod?
Each fish has only 2 kokotxas (one on each side of the jaw). A 5 kg cod yields approx. 80-120g of kokotxas. That explains the price.
Are kokotxas and cheeks the same?
No. Cheeks are the lateral area of the head, larger and meatier. Kokotxas are under the jaw. Some fishmongers confuse them due to lack of knowledge.
Do kokotxas have bones?
No, they are pure meat with gelatin. That is one of their virtues: clean texture, no bones.
How long do desalted kokotxas last in the fridge?
Once opened, 3-4 days in the fridge at 0-4°C. If bought vacuum-packed unopened, until the product's expiration date.
Can kokotxas be frozen?
Yes. Fresh or desalted ones freeze well for up to 3 months. Thaw in the refrigerator for 12 hours before cooking.
How many kokotxas per person?
As a tapa: 6-8 kokotxas (150g). As a starter: 10-12 kokotxas (250g). As a main course: 15+ kokotxas (350-400g).
Can kokotxas be eaten raw?
It is not traditional. The raw texture is not pleasant and, for food safety, they should undergo at least medium cooking or prior freezing due to anisakis.
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