anchovy butter recipe

What is anchovy butter and why it works

Anchovy butter is a compound preparation that combines softened butter with pureed anchovy fillets to obtain a homogeneous, unctuous paste with a deep umami flavor unlike any other appetizer. It is also known as "beurre d'anchois" in the French tradition, where its use in classic cuisine is as ancient as bourgeois cuisine itself.

The reason it works has a precise gastronomic explanation: the fat in the butter acts as a vehicle for the aromatic compounds of the anchovy, distributing them evenly and softening the saltiness without eliminating it. The result is a product with all the depth of flavor of Cantabrian anchovies but without the direct impact of biting into a whole one. It is the gentlest way to introduce someone to the world of artisanal anchovies, and at the same time one of the most elegant appetizers that can be served.

At the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona, we have been seeing for more than 35 years how customers who are not initially anchovy enthusiasts become regular buyers after trying well-made anchovy butter. The product you use as a base absolutely determines the final result.

Ingredients and proportions: the base recipe

Anchovy butter allows for variations, but there is a basic proportion that serves as a starting point for any palate. These quantities yield about 120g of anchovy butter, enough for an appetizer for 6-8 people or for use in cooking for several days.

• 100 g unsalted butter, good quality, at room temperature (softened)
• 4-5 Cantabrian anchovy fillets in olive oil (about 20-25 g)
• A pinch of freshly ground black pepper
• A few drops of lemon juice (optional, but recommended)

The proportion is approximately 4:1 by weight (butter:anchovy). If you want a more potent flavored butter, take the proportion to 3:1. If you are looking for something more subtle for people not used to the intense flavor of anchovies, keep it at 5:1.

Regarding butter: quality matters. A good quality butter, with a minimum of 82% fat content, produces a silkier softened texture and a cleaner dairy flavor that serves better as a background to the anchovy flavor. Butters with less fat content have more water and the final texture is less unctuous.

Regarding anchovies: it is the determining ingredient. With low-quality anchovies — excessively salty, with a metallic taste, rubbery texture — the result will be an unpleasantly flavored butter that no one will want to repeat. With artisanal cured Cantabrian anchovies of at least 10 months, the result is a butter with complex layers of flavor that are revealed in the mouth.

Step-by-step recipe

The process is simple but has a technical detail that makes the difference between a homogeneous butter and one with unintegrated anchovy pieces.

Step 1: Butter temperature. The butter must be truly softened — not melted, not cold. Softened means that when pressed with a finger it sinks without resistance but maintains its shape. If the butter is too cold, the anchovy fillets do not integrate well and pieces remain. If it is melted, the final texture when cooled is grainy. Ideally, take it out of the refrigerator 45-60 minutes before working with it.

Step 2: Drain the anchovies. Remove the fillets from the can or jar and drain them lightly on absorbent paper. Do not rinse, do not remove all the oil — a small amount of oil from the can helps integration. Simply remove the excess so that the butter does not become too liquid.

Step 3: Mash the anchovies. Finely chop the fillets with a knife until a nearly homogeneous paste is obtained. Or, use the back of a fork to mash them on a cutting board. The goal is a paste with little texture, not whole fillets. For an absolutely smooth texture, use a small mortar or food processor.

Step 4: Integrate with the butter. Place the softened butter in a bowl. Add the anchovy paste. With a spatula or fork, work the mixture with circular movements and pressing against the sides of the bowl until the anchovy paste is completely integrated and the butter has a uniformly beige-pink color. Add the pepper and lemon drops at this time.

Step 5: Shape and refrigerate. Pour the butter onto plastic wrap and roll it into a cylinder. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before use. This facilitates slicing and improves the final presentation.

Variations: with lemon, with herbs, with garlic

The base recipe allows for several developments that adapt the result to different serving contexts and flavor combinations.

Anchovy butter with lemon and capers

Add a teaspoon of lemon zest and a teaspoon of chopped capers to the base recipe. The lemon provides freshness that balances the richness of the butter; the capers add an acidic touch and a texture that breaks the creamy uniformity. Ideal for serving with grilled fish or roasted vegetables.

Anchovy butter with garlic and parsley

Half a teaspoon of finely chopped garlic and a tablespoon of fresh chopped parsley transform anchovy butter into something closer to a maître d'hôtel butter with a Mediterranean identity. It works extraordinarily well melted over a veal chop or a sea bass fillet. The garlic must be very finely chopped — almost to a paste — so that there is no grainy texture.

Anchovy butter with smoked paprika

A teaspoon of smoked paprika from La Vera adds an earthy and slightly spicy dimension that combines well with the marine notes of the anchovy. This version works especially well over roasted potatoes or as an accompaniment to grilled chicken.

Anchovy butter with black olives

Add 4-5 pitted and crushed kalamata olives to the base mixture. The combination with the olive paste produces a flavor profile similar to Provençal tapenade but with more body and complexity. Ideal for serving with rye bread or crackers.

How to serve anchovy butter

The presentation matters as much as the recipe itself. Anchovy butter allows for several serving methods that produce different experiences.

In slices on the cylinder: The classic presentation. Take out the refrigerated cylinder and cut 1 cm slices. Serve two or three slices on a plate with toasted bread on the side. The visual contrast between the pale yellow of the butter and the golden bread is part of the appeal.

Spread directly on a board: For a more informal and abundant service, place the butter in a small ceramic bowl and serve with a spatula on the side. Toasted bread, crudités, or rye crackers as vehicles. This is the most common format for group appetizers.

As a base for an elaborate toast: See our article on 10 anchovy toast combinations where anchovy butter appears as the base for several of the most successful combinations.

Serving temperature: Anchovy butter should be served slightly colder than room temperature. If it is too soft, it melts on the bread instead of spreading with control. If it is too cold, it does not spread well and breaks the bread. The ideal point: take it out of the refrigerator 15-20 minutes before serving.

Culinary uses beyond an appetizer

Anchovy butter is one of the ingredients that offers the most versatility in a well-organized home kitchen. Once you have a cylinder in the refrigerator, you have a flavor enhancer ready to use in multiple situations.

On grilled meats: A slice of anchovy butter melted over a beef steak, pork chop, or grilled chicken thigh immediately adds a salty and umami dimension that would normally require a sauce. The collagen of the meat and the fat of the butter combine into something that has no name but works.

In pasta: Dissolve two tablespoons of anchovy butter in freshly cooked pasta with a little of the cooking water. The result is a quick version of pasta with anchovies without having to prepare a complete sauce. See also our guide to pasta with anchovies: 5 Italian recipes.

In sauces: Add a teaspoon of anchovy butter to any tomato sauce to give it depth of flavor without the result clearly tasting of anchovy. The glutamate in the anchovy acts as a natural flavor enhancer and rounds out the acidity of the tomato.

On roasted vegetables: Broccoli, cauliflower, asparagus, green beans — any roasted or blanched vegetable improves with a tablespoon of melted anchovy butter on top. It's the trick that makes the most difference in relation to the effort required.

Storage and shelf life

Well-prepared anchovy butter lasts between 5 and 7 days in the refrigerator. The plastic film wrapper in cylinder format is the best storage method because it minimizes exposure to air and makes it easy to cut portions without contaminating the rest.

It can also be frozen. Anchovy butter freezes perfectly for up to 3 months. To use it directly from the freezer, cut the slices with a knife heated in hot water. To thaw for appetizer use, transfer to the refrigerator the night before.

A sign that the butter has passed its prime: if the color darkens significantly (from beige-pink to dark brown) or if a rancid smell appears in the butter above the anchovy smell. In that case, discard.

Why anchovy quality changes everything

We have repeated this several times in this article because it deserves to be repeated. Anchovy butter is a three-ingredient recipe where the main ingredient is anchovy. There is no culinary technique that compensates for a low-quality anchovy in such a simple preparation.

A low-quality anchovy in butter produces a paste with an excessively salty flavor, with metallic notes and without the complexity of flavor that makes well-made anchovy butter memorable. An artisanal cured anchovy of 10-14 months, from Cantabria, with the correct size and texture, produces a butter with layers of flavor — the initial saltiness, the deep umami that appears later, and the buttery nuances that are revealed as the mixture melts in the mouth.

At Bacalalo, we have been selecting anchovies in Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona for more than 35 years. Our "00" Premium anchovies are the choice for those who want the best possible anchovy butter. Our Gourmet Selection is the unbeatable value-for-money option for frequent use.

To better understand how size and curing affect the final flavor, consult our complete guide to Cantabrian anchovies: sizes and brands.

Frequently asked questions about anchovy butter

Can anchovy butter be made with anchovies in salt (not in oil)?
Yes, but it requires an extra step. Salted anchovies must be cleaned, filleted, and soaked in cold water for 20 to 30 minutes to reduce their saltiness before incorporating them into the butter. The result usually has more flavor complexity than with anchovies in oil, because salted anchovies have had a longer curing process. See our guide on how to prepare homemade anchovies in oil from salt-cured anchovies.

Does anchovy butter taste too strong for people who don't like anchovies?
It depends on the proportion used. With a 5:1 ratio (butter:anchovy), the flavor is mild and many people who say they don't like anchovies enjoy the butter without recognizing the ingredient. The relative mildness also depends on the quality of the anchovy: an artisanal anchovy with good curing has a rounder and less aggressive flavor than an excessively salty industrial anchovy.

What bread goes best with anchovy butter?
Toasted sourdough baguette, rye bread, rye crackers, or "regañás" (Spanish flatbread crackers). The important thing is that the base is crispy and has a neutral or slightly acidic flavor. Sweet bread or bread with perfumed seeds competes with the butter and worsens the result.

Can margarine be used instead of butter?
We do not recommend this substitution. Margarine has a different fat composition and a higher water content, which produces an inferior final texture. The flavor is also blander. For this specific appetizer, real butter has no equivalent.

Does anchovy butter work on a gluten-free diet?
The butter itself is gluten-free. The problem may be in the accompanying bread. Serve with rice toasts, corn crackers, or vegetable crudités (celery, carrots, cucumbers cut into sticks) for a gluten-free version.