Canned Anchovies: A Complete Guide (In Oil, Brine, and How to Choose Them)

What are canned anchovies?

Canned anchovies are fillets of European anchovy (Engraulis encrasicolus) that have undergone a maturation or curing process in salt for several months. During this time, the fish proteins are transformed by autolysis (the fish's own enzymes), developing the characteristic reddish-brown color, silky texture, and deep umami flavor that makes them unique.

It's important to distinguish: canned anchovies are NOT the same as fresh anchovies (boquerones) or anchovies in vinegar (boquerones en vinagre). They are completely different products in terms of taste, texture, and processing.

Anchovies in oil vs. anchovies in brine: key differences

There are two main formats of canned anchovies:

Anchovies in olive oil:

• They are already cleaned, filleted, and ready to eat directly
• More convenient: open the can and serve them
• The oil covering them influences the flavor: better oil = better anchovy
• They can be stored in cans or tubs for several years (at least 2-3)
• Most common format in the Spanish gourmet market

Anchovies in brine:

• They are sold whole, with the central bone, covered in salt
• Require preparation: they must be cleaned, filleted, and desalted before consumption
• Preferred format by professionals and purists: more control over the product
• They are preserved in salt for longer (up to 4-5 years) and the flavor intensifies
• More economical per kilo of resulting clean product
• The chef chooses which oil to preserve them in once cleaned

For home use without complications: anchovies in oil. For advanced gastronomy or when you want total control of the process: anchovies in brine.

How anchovies are made: the artisanal process

The production process of the best Cantabrian anchovies remains artisanal in the best canneries:

1. Catch: Anchovies are mainly fished in the Cantabrian Sea between April and July, at their optimal fat content (15-25% fat).
2. Heading and gutting: Head and entrails are removed manually or mechanically.
3. Salting: They are placed in alternating layers of salt in barrels or containers. The salt extracts water and allows for maturation.
4. Maturation: In temperature-controlled chambers for 6 to 18 months. This is where the magic happens: enzymes transform the fish, developing color, aroma, and flavor.
5. Cleaning and filleting: They are washed, skin and bone are removed, and they are filleted manually (by the best brands).
6. Packaging in oil: They are placed in cans or tubs with olive oil (extra virgin in premium ranges).

The curing time is the most important factor: more months mean more flavor and better texture, but also higher production cost.

How to choose good canned anchovies

These are the quality indicators to consider:

• Origin: "from the Cantabrian Sea". Anchovies from Cantabria, the Basque Country, or the Bay of Biscay have a superior texture and flavor to those from other origins.
• Curing time: a minimum of 12 months for medium-high quality. The best have 18-24 months.
• Preserving oil: extra virgin is the best option. Normal olive oil is acceptable. Sunflower oil is a sign of inferior quality.
• Color: intense and uniform reddish-brown. If they are very pale or yellowish, the curing was insufficient.
• Fillet texture: firm but not hard. It should break easily to the touch but without falling apart.
• Price: quality anchovies cannot be cheap. Below €5-6/100g (in oil), they are unlikely to be excellent. Premium ones are between €8-15/100g.

Cantabrian Anchovies: why they are the best

The term "Cantabrian anchovy" (also called "Santoña anchovy" as this town is the main canning center) refers to anchovies made from anchovy caught in the Bay of Biscay and cured on the Cantabrian and Basque coasts.

The combination of:

• The cold, nutrient-rich waters of the Cantabrian Sea that produce fatter anchovies
• The artisanal know-how of generations of family canneries
• The long maturation period

...produces a result that no imported anchovy can match. Mediterranean anchovies (Peru, Morocco) are good, but Cantabrian ones have a richness of flavor that makes them a premium export product.

How to use canned anchovies in cooking

Canned anchovies have multiple uses beyond canapés:

• As a seasoning in sauces: A couple of fillets dissolved in hot oil enhance any stew, pasta, or sauce without being noticed as "anchovies" but adding depth of flavor.
• On pizzas: Anchovies are one of the classic ingredients of Italian pizza. Their intensity balances creamy cheeses.
• Caesar dressing: The original recipe includes anchovies. They are the secret ingredient that gives it its umami character.
• With pasta: Puttanesca pasta, aglio e olio sauce with anchovy, or simply spaghetti with oil, garlic, and anchovy are quick and spectacular preparations.
• In salads: Niçoise salad or any Mediterranean salad is greatly enhanced with anchovies.
• Anchovy butter: Mix butter with mashed anchovy fillets. Perfect for grilled meats and toast.

Storage and shelf life of anchovies

Anchovies in oil in an unopened can: can be stored for 2-4 years at room temperature in a cool, dark place.

Once the can is opened: transfer to a glass jar, covered with oil. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2-3 weeks. It is important that they are always covered in oil.

Anchovies in brine: unopened, they last 4-5 years. Once opened, consume within 2-3 weeks.

If the anchovies smell rancid or the oil has an intensely cloudy color, do not consume them.

Nutritional values of canned anchovies

Anchovies are one of the most nutritious fish per serving:

• Protein: 28g per 100g — one of the most concentrated protein sources from the sea
• Omega-3: 2-3g per 100g — excellent for cardiovascular and brain health
• Calcium: 232mg/100g (more than milk) — beneficial for bones and teeth
• Iron: 4.6mg/100g — more than many red meats
• Vitamin D: important for immunity and calcium absorption
• Sodium: high (~3500mg/100g) — people with hypertension should moderate consumption
• Calories: 210 kcal/100g in oil (mostly from protein and healthy fat)

In a normal appetizer portion (2-3 fillets = 15-20g), the sodium intake is manageable for healthy people.

Frequently asked questions about canned anchovies