Cantabrian anchovies

Cantabrian anchovies (Engraulis encrasicolus) are the most highly prized semi-preserved seafood in Spain and a global benchmark in gourmet gastronomy. Caught during the spring fishing season from the ports of Santoña, Laredo, Lekeitio, Ondarroa, Getaria, and Bermeo, they are cured in salt in oak barrels or stainless steel vats for periods ranging from six to eighteen months, depending on size and recipe. This selection brings together premium products from our catalog: 00-size anchovy fillets, size 0 gourmet selection, uncleaned salted anchovies for professional use, vinegared anchovies (boquerones), and derived gourmet preparations such as pastes, pâté, and cream.

Anchovy sizes: what 00, 0, 1, and 10/11 mean

The size indicates the number of anchovies per raw kilo, before salting. The lower the number, the larger the size of each piece, the higher its fat content, and the better the resulting fillet after the laborious manual cleaning process. These are the usual sizes in the catalog:

• Size 00: between sixty-five and seventy-five anchovies per raw kilo. Final fillet of eleven to fourteen centimeters. The elite of the product: buttery texture, no visible bones to the palate, deep flavor with a long finish. Cured between twelve and eighteen months. Reserved for exceptional fishing seasons.
• Size 0: between seventy-five and ninety anchovies per kilo. Fillet of nine to twelve centimeters. Excellent balance between quality and performance. Ideal for tapas, pintxos, and gourmet dishes without entering the 00 range.
• Size 1: between ninety and one hundred ten anchovies per kilo. Fillet of eight to ten centimeters. Standard quality for daily use in omelets, pizzas, salads, pasta, and as a garnish without the cost of the fillet dominating the dish.
• Size 10/11: between one hundred and one hundred thirty anchovies per kilo, sold uncleaned (whole salted anchovy). For cleaning at home or cooking in a sailor's stew (marmita marinera).

Cantabrian fishing season: why spring anchovies are the best

The spring fishing season (also called the Cantabrian fishing season) takes place between April and June. The anchovy migrates from deep waters to the Cantabrian continental shelf to spawn, a time when it accumulates the maximum intramuscular fat reserves of the year. This fat is what provides the characteristic buttery flavor after curing. Autumn or winter fishing seasons produce leaner anchovies, with shorter fillets and less complex flavor. This is why reputable companies work exclusively with spring catches and reserve the best batches to be packed as size 00.

The fleets use purse seine fishing methods, with medium-sized inshore vessels that make daily trips and land their catches on the same day. The freshness of the fish upon arrival at the factory is crucial: anchovies older than twenty-four hours from capture are not included in the premium range. The historical ports for this product are Santoña and Laredo in Cantabria, and Lekeitio, Ondarroa, Getaria, and Bermeo in the Basque Country. The Basque and Cantabrian fishing seasons share techniques, species, and raw materials; the difference between them is marginal and depends more on each canning company than on the geographical area.

Cantabrian anchovy vs. Moroccan, Peruvian, or Argentinian anchovy

The Cantabrian anchovy is Engraulis encrasicolus, a northeastern Atlantic species that lives in cold, shallow waters and is distinguished by its fat content. The Moroccan or Argentinian anchovy uses Engraulis anchoita, a South Atlantic species with a stronger, saltier, and less uniform flavor profile. The Peruvian anchovy is Engraulis ringens: it represents the largest fishery in the world by volume but is mostly used for fishmeal and fish oil, almost never for gourmet anchovies for human consumption. Anchovies sold as "Cantabrian" must certify their origin with a batch code and a certificate from the landing fish market.

Artisan process: the four phases of the anchovy fillet

Each Cantabrian anchovy goes through four consecutive manual phases from capture to final packaging. The process is laborious and accounts for a significant part of the premium product's price:

1. Bleeding and gutting by hand within the first twenty-four to forty-eight hours after capture. Removing blood and viscera is critical to prevent oxidation and to allow salt to penetrate uniformly during curing.
2. Salting in barrels or vats: the anchovies are layered alternately with sea salt, compressed with a stone press on top. Curing lasts between six and eighteen months depending on the size. During this time, the protein is hydrolyzed by enzymatic action, and the characteristic umami flavor of cured products emerges.
3. Manual cleaning of the fillet: after curing, each anchovy is partially desalted in water and cleaned by removing skin, central bone, fins, and residual viscera. The process is entirely by hand, with a flexible-bladed knife: an expert worker produces between forty and sixty cans per day.
4. Packing in oil: the fillet is rolled or placed flat in a can or glass jar and covered with oil. The premium range uses extra virgin olive oil; the mid-range, refined olive oil; the industrial range, sunflower oil. The oil is a vehicle for preservation and contributes to the final product's flavor profile.

How to choose anchovies based on culinary use

If the dish is a toast with anchovies as the star (bread with tomato, montadito, pintxo), size 00 or size 0 fully justifies the investment: the piece is appreciated individually, and the butteriness of the fillet dominates the experience. If the anchovy is to be integrated into a cooked dish (spaghetti, pizza, Caesar salad, anchovy omelet, puttanesca sauce), size 1 offers the best balance between cost and flavor, without the difference with a larger size being noticeable after preparation.

For a Christmas appetizer or celebration, glass jars with fillets in extra virgin olive oil preserve the product better on the table than cans. For professional use in restaurants, 250 to 500-gram formats in tubs or large cans with cleaned anchovies offer better value for money. For traditional stews like marmita, uncleaned salted anchovies (size 10/11) are the historical raw material.

Vinegared anchovies (boquerones): anchovy, different technique

The boquerón en vinagre (vinegared anchovy) is the same species, Engraulis encrasicolus, as the anchovy, but prepared with a radically different technique. Instead of brining in barrels, the boquerones are cleaned fresh, submerged in a mixture of vinegar, salt, and water for twelve to twenty-four hours to coagulate proteins and whiten the flesh, and then packed in oil with garlic and parsley. The result is a raw product from a thermal standpoint—it is neither cooked nor extensively cured—with a mild acidic flavor and clean texture, perfect for Donostiarra gildas, Russian salad, and pintxos. Boquerones are sold after pre-freezing at -20 °C for 24 hours to neutralize anisakis according to European regulations.

Storage and shelf life of canned or jarred anchovies

Anchovies in oil are semi-preserved, not sterilized preserves like tuna. This means they require refrigeration between 0 and 8 °C before and after opening. The indicated shelf life on the can ranges from twelve to twenty-four months from packing, depending on size and recipe. An opened can or jar should be consumed within five to seven days, keeping the fillets always submerged in their oil (if there's not enough, top up with extra virgin olive oil). If the fillets peek out of the oil, they oxidize quickly and develop a metallic taste.

Anchovies should not be frozen once packed: the oil crystallizes and breaks the texture of the fillet. However, a well-sealed can can last several months past its expiration date if the cold chain has been maintained, although the aromatic finesse diminishes over time.

Pairings and professional uses of Cantabrian anchovies

The classic pairing for premium anchovies is Albariño, Txakoli, or Godello white wine without barrel aging; brut nature cava or lager beer also work well. As a pintxo, the 00-size anchovy on bread with tomato and oil is the simplest and most demanding dish: no ingredient can hide a mediocre fillet. In international cuisine, Cantabrian anchovies are the base of puttanesca sauce, the original Caesar dressing, Provençal tapenade, and traditional Worcestershire sauce.

Refrigerated shipping and delivery times

Anchovies in oil are semi-preserved: they are shipped refrigerated between 2 and 8 °C in an insulated box with a cooling gel pack. Delivery is twenty-four to forty-eight hours on the peninsula and forty-eight to seventy-two hours in the Balearic Islands. Uncleaned salted anchovies can travel at room temperature without losing quality. If the reception temperature exceeds eight degrees, the batch is replaced free of charge.

Best Cantabrian anchovies: what to look for in a premium fillet

The search for the best anchovies from Santoña, Laredo, or Cantabria requires technical criteria rather than simply trusting brands. Five objective indicators can distinguish a premium fillet from an average one:

• Uniform pale pink color: premium anchovies have a pale reddish-pink tone, not dark brown or gray. A dark color indicates excessive salting or oxidation.
• Whole fillet without breaks: the fillet should arrive in one piece, without loose fragments or breaks. Careful manual cleaning preserves its integrity.
• No small bones on the palate: premium fillets have been hand-cleaned, removing even fine bones. If the fillet pricks the mouth, the cleaning has been careless.
• Extra virgin olive oil as a covering: EVOO is the standard oil for premium products. Refined olive oil or sunflower oil are for mid-range or industrial products.
• Size indicated on the packaging: premium cans and jars have the fillet size (00, 0, 1) marked. Industrial ones often omit this information.

Anchovies in oil, butter, or extra virgin olive oil

Beyond the classic preserve in oil, the modern market offers variations with different coverings and preparations:

• Anchovies in extra virgin olive oil: the standard premium format. Unrefined, high-quality oil that provides a herbaceous profile and antioxidants.
• Anchovies in butter: a European variant (especially French) where anchovies are preserved in clarified butter. More unctuous texture, more buttery flavor.
• Anchovies in brine: whole or filleted anchovies preserved in saturated salt water. More intense flavor, requires rinsing before serving.
• Anchovy pâté and cream: creamy emulsion with butter or fresh cheese to spread on toast.
• Anchovies in oil with pepper or garlic: flavored variants for direct use as an appetizer.

Anchovy omelet, pizza, bread with tomato, and stuffed olives

Cantabrian anchovies integrate perfectly into simple dishes where they become the main aroma without the need for complex preparation:

• Bread with tomato and anchovy: the simplest and most demanding pintxo to prepare well. Only justifies 00 or 0 size anchovies.
• Donostiarra anchovy omelet: egg, chopped anchovy, and parsley. Three ingredients in a pan.
• Pizza with anchovy: the Neapolitan alla romana pizza includes anchovy, capers, and olives on tomato and mozzarella.
• Olives stuffed with anchovy: traditional Spanish preserves use chopped anchovies as a filling for manzanilla olives.
• Puttanesca sauce: garlic, anchovy, capers, olives, and tomato over spaghetti. A Neapolitan dish of humble tradition.
• Caesar dressing: the original sauce includes crushed anchovy as a base, not just in the modern commercial version.

Anchoa, anchova, and boquerón: differences in names

In Peninsular Spanish, three terms distinguish the same fish or its derivatives: anchoa, anchova, and boquerón. Anchoa refers to Engraulis encrasicolus cured in salt (salazón) and packed in oil. Boquerón is the same species, but cleaned fresh and cured in vinegar. Anchova refers to the same fish fresh, before any preservation: fried boquerón or boquerón a la andaluza use fresh anchova. In Catalan and other peninsular languages, similar terminological nuances exist.