Anchovies 00: what the zeros mean and how to choose them

What the zeros in anchovies mean: 00, 0, and unclassified

If you've searched for "00 anchovies," you probably already know that not all Cantabrian anchovies are the same. The zeros are a size classification system used by canneries in Santoña, Laredo, and Colindres to indicate the size of the fillet. It's not marketing — it's a real standard that has been operating in the Cantabrian canning industry for decades.

The logic is simple: the more zeros, the larger the fillet.

• 00 anchovies (double zero): The supreme size. Fillets 8 to 10 cm long, thick, with a meaty texture and deep flavor. They come from the largest specimens of Engraulis encrasicolus, caught at the peak of the fishing season. These are served in Michelin-starred restaurants and sought after by product connoisseurs.
• 0 anchovies (single zero): Large size, fillets 6 to 8 cm. Excellent quality with a more balanced price-to-size ratio. For most consumers, the difference with 00 in the mouth is subtle — especially if you're not comparing side-by-side.
• Unclassified (menu or standard): Fillets of varied sizes, not sorted by size. May include small and medium pieces mixed together. This does not mean poorer quality of fish or curing, only that they have not gone through the individual size selection process.

At Bacalalo, we've been explaining this at the counter of Mercat del Ninot for over 30 years. The most common question: "So are 00 anchovies better?" The honest answer: it depends on what you want them for. And that's exactly what we're going to break down in this article.

How anchovies are classified by size: the selection process

To understand why 00 anchovies cost more, you need to understand how that classification is achieved. It's not an automatic or quick process.

The fishing season: it all starts at sea

Cantabrian anchovies are caught between April and June, during what is called "the fishing season." Boats use purse seine nets, catching schools of anchovy (Engraulis encrasicolus) that migrate through the Bay of Biscay. Of the entire catch, only a portion corresponds to large specimens — those that will eventually yield 00 fillets.

Salting and curing: 6 to 12 months of waiting

Fresh anchovies are cleaned, salted in barrels, and left to cure for 6 to 12 months. During this process, the fish's natural enzymes transform its texture and flavor: from fresh anchovy to cured anchovy. It is a controlled fermentation that requires constant temperature and humidity.

Selection: fillet by fillet, by hand

This is where the zeros come in. Once cured, the anchovies are cleaned, deboned, and filleted by hand. Each fillet is individually measured and classified:

• 00: only fillets longer than 8 cm and with a determined minimum thickness.
• 0: fillets 6 to 8 cm, uniform in size.
• Menu: the rest of the unclassified fillets, of varied sizes.

An artisan cannery can take 20-30 minutes to prepare a single can of 00 anchovies. Each fillet is placed individually, aligned, and covered with oil. It is manual labor that directly explains the price difference.

Important note: from the same batch of cured anchovies, only between 10% and 20% of the fillets reach the 00 size. The rest are divided between 0 and menu. This makes 00 anchovies a naturally scarce product, not due to marketing.

Flavor differences between sizes

This is the million-dollar question and the one that generates the most debate among anchovy lovers. After 30 years of tasting anchovies of all sizes at Mercat del Ninot, this is what I can confirm:

00 Anchovies: complex flavor and meaty texture

The 00 fillet has more mass, which means more curing surface and deeper flavor. When you bite into it, you notice layers: first salt, then umami, then a buttery base that melts in your mouth. The texture is firm but silky. If you put a 00 anchovy on a slice of toast with tomato, the fillet is the absolute star — it doesn't need accompaniment.

0 Anchovies: balance and versatility

The 0 fillet is slightly less thick, but the flavor profile is practically identical if the curing process has been the same. The main difference is in the mouthfeel: the 0 is more delicate, integrating better into preparations where the anchovy is an accompaniment (salads, cos lettuce hearts, pintxos). In a blind tasting, many professionals find it difficult to distinguish a 00 from a 0 from the same cannery.

Menu Anchovies: honest flavor, unpretentious

Menu fillets vary in size, meaning the experience is less uniform. You can find a large fillet next to a small one. The flavor depends on the same curing process, so the basic quality is identical. Where they lose out is in presentation and the consistency of the experience.

The honest conclusion: the flavor difference between 00 and 0 is real but subtle. The difference between 00 and menu is more noticeable, especially in texture and mouthfeel. But if your plan is to make an anchovy spread or incorporate them into a pizza, the size matters little — the basic flavor is the same.

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When to choose 00 anchovies vs 0 anchovies vs menu

Here's what we recommend at Bacalalo based on the occasion and use:

Choose 00 anchovies when:

• The anchovy is the star: simple toast with butter and anchovy, an anchovy-only dish, gourmet appetizer.
• You want to impress: dinner with guests, a gastronomic gift, pairing with a good txakoli or champagne.
• You're looking for the full experience: if you've never tasted a real Cantabrian anchovy, start with 00 to understand what we're talking about. Our "00" Premium anchovies come in formats of 20, 35, and 70 fillets.

Choose 0 anchovies when:

• You want high quality without the top price: "0" Gourmet Selection anchovies are Bacalalo's best-selling format for good reason.
• Regular consumption: if you eat anchovies every week, the 0 offers consistent quality at a sustainable price.
• Tapas and pintxos: for gildas, banderillas, cos lettuce hearts with anchovies, or varied toasts where the anchovy shares the spotlight.

Choose menu anchovies when:

• Cooking with them: sauces, spreads, pizzas, pasta alla puttanesca. The flavor is there, the size doesn't matter.
• Feeding a family: the 45-fillet Menu Anchovy at 26.95 euros is enough for several meals.
• Quantity-price ratio: at 0.60 euros per fillet, it's the smartest option for daily consumption.

And if you want the most authentic experience:

The salted anchovies for cleaning (from 5.95 euros) are what the canners themselves eat. You clean, debone, and season them at home. The flavor is the most intense of all, and the price per fillet is the lowest. It requires 15-20 minutes of work, but for many Bacalalo customers, it's a ritual that's part of the enjoyment.

Real anchovy prices by size in 2026

One of the problems when searching for "00 anchovies price" online is that most stores are not transparent. They show the price of the can but not the price per fillet, which is the data that really matters for comparison. Here are Bacalalo's real data, updated to February 2026:

*Salted anchovies are sold by weight; the number of fillets is approximate depending on the size of the specimen.

What these numbers reveal

Larger formats are always a better deal. The 70 "00" fillets cost 1.07 euros/fillet compared to 1.25 euros/fillet for the 20-fillet format. That's a 14% saving just by buying in larger quantities. The same applies to the "0" Selection: 0.84 euros/fillet in the large format vs 1.11 euros in the small one.

Menu anchovies are unbeatable in price. At 0.60 euros/fillet, it's the most economical option in ready-to-eat format. If you compare it to supermarket anchovies (which are often not real Cantabrian), the price per fillet is similar, but the quality is incomparable.

Salted anchovies are by far the cheapest option. If you don't mind spending a few minutes cleaning anchovies at home, the price per fillet drops to 0.20-0.30 euros. This is what hospitality professionals and true product lovers do.

For a more detailed guide on all available formats and ranges, you can consult our complete guide to buying Cantabrian anchovies online.

How to store 00 anchovies once opened

00 anchovies, due to their size and price, deserve careful preservation. There's nothing more frustrating than wasting fillets worth 1 euro each by not storing them properly.

Basic preservation rules

• Unopened anchovies in oil (can or jar): 2-3 years in a cool, dark place. No refrigeration needed.
• Opened anchovies in oil: 5-7 days in the refrigerator. The key is that the fillets must always be completely submerged in oil.
• Unopened salted anchovies: up to 12 months in the refrigerator.
• Salted anchovies once cleaned: 2-3 days in the refrigerator, covered in olive oil.

The container trick

If you open a large can of 00 anchovies and don't finish them (common with the 70-fillet format), do the following:

1. Transfer the leftover fillets to an airtight glass container (not plastic – it absorbs odors).
2. Cover completely with extra virgin olive oil. If you don't have enough oil from the can, add your own.
3. Close tightly and store in the coldest part of the refrigerator (not the freezer).
4. Consume within a maximum of 7 days.

What NOT to do

• Do not freeze anchovies in oil. Freezing breaks down the fillet's structure, and when thawed, it becomes mushy and loses texture.
• Do not leave fillets exposed to air. They oxidize quickly and develop an unpleasant metallic taste.
• Do not reuse the oil from the can for high-temperature cooking. It contains salt and organic residues that will burn. However, it's perfect for dressing salads, toasts, or cold pasta.

For more tips on formats and preservation, you can read our guide on the origin, types, and best brands of Cantabrian anchovies.

Frequently Asked Questions