The gilda is the most famous pintxo in the Basque Country and probably the perfect appetizer: olive, guindilla pepper, and anchovy on a skewer. But there are at least 10 variants worth knowing. Here they all are, with proportions, assembly, and a comparative table.
Origin of the gilda: from San Sebastián to the world
Updated March 2026. After decades working with seafood, we have learned that quality makes all the difference.
The gilda was born in the Casa Vallés bar in San Sebastián in the 1940s. Its name pays homage to the movie Gilda (1946) with Rita Hayworth — green, salty, and a little spicy, just like the character. It's a pintxo that isn't cooked: it's assembled. And in that simplicity lies its genius.
The original recipe is inflexible in its composition: Manzanilla olive, Ibarra guindilla pepper (piparra), and Cantabrian anchovy, all pierced by a skewer. There's no cooking, no elaborate preparation, no trick. Just three ingredients that enhance each other.
From San Sebastián, it spread throughout the Basque Country, Navarre, and today it's essential in any pintxo bar in Spain. But with that expansion came variants that respect the spirit (salty-sour-spicy on a skewer) and change the main components.
The classic gilda: exact ingredients and assembly
Before exploring the variants, you need to master the original. These are the ingredients for 10 classic gildas:
- 10 Ibarra guindilla peppers (piparras) — in vinegar, drained. If you can't find Ibarra, those from Navarre or La Rioja will do.
- 10 Manzanilla olives — pitted, in brine. Manzanilla is the standard; Gordal is too large.
- 20 Cantabrian anchovy fillets — 2 per gilda, rolled or folded.
- 10 long skewers — for brochettes or pintxos (8-10 cm).
- Extra virgin olive oil — a drizzle over the top when serving.
Assembly: First skewer the guindilla pepper (folded in a zigzag to keep it compact), then the olive, and finally the anchovy folded in half. The order matters: the anchovy goes on top because it's the first thing to touch the palate when eaten.
You can prepare them up to 2 hours in advance. Keep them in the fridge covered with film and take them out 10 minutes before serving. If you need top-quality anchovies, here's our selection of gildas and appetizers.
Artisan Anchovy Gilda Handmade Gourmet
Available at Bacalalo.com with refrigerated shipping in 24-48h
10 types of gildas you should try
1. Classic Gilda (the original)
Manzanilla olive + Ibarra guindilla pepper + Cantabrian anchovy. Already described above. It is the benchmark against which all others are measured. Perfect balance of salty (anchovy), sour (olive), and spicy (guindilla).
2. "00" Anchovy Gilda
Same structure as the classic, but using "00" anchovy fillets — the largest, cured for a minimum of 14 months. The anchovy takes up more space on the skewer and its flavor is more complex, with notes of cured ham. It's the premium gilda served by haute cuisine bars in Donostia.
3. Smoked Salmon Gilda
Replaces the anchovy with a rolled smoked salmon strip. Keeps the olive and guindilla. It's milder than the original, with a smoky note that combines surprisingly well with the piparra. It works as an option for those who find anchovy too intense.
4. Prawn Gilda
Cooked prawn (peeled, leaving the tail) + guindilla + olive stuffed with anchovy. It's more visually appealing than the classic and has a sweet seafood note that counteracts the spice. Served cold. It's a favorite for summer dinners and celebrations.
5. Bonito Gilda
Canned bonito chunk (drained) + guindilla + black olive. Changes the Manzanilla olive for a black Aragon olive so as not to compete with the bonito in flavor. It's more substantial than the classic and works well as an appetizer before a light meal.
6. Txistorra Gilda
Fried txistorra slice + guindilla + olive. It's the only variant that requires cooking (frying the txistorra for 2 minutes per side). The contrast between the fat of the txistorra and the acidity of the guindilla is addictive. Served warm, not cold.
7. Pickled Anchovy Gilda
Pickled anchovy (rolled) + guindilla + olive. Replaces the saltiness of the anchovy with the acidity of the vinegar. It's fresher than the original and very popular in southern Spain, where pickled anchovy is king. It doubles the acidity, so moderate the guindilla.
8. Cheese Gilda
Chunk of Idiazábal cheese (or cured Manchego) + guindilla + olive + anchovy. Adds a fourth element without breaking the balance. Smoked Idiazábal cheese is the best companion for anchovy — fatty, umami, smoky against salty and cured.
9. Vegan Gilda
Kalamata olive + Ibarra guindilla pepper + sun-dried tomato in oil + large caper. It doesn't try to imitate the gilda, but rather to reinterpret the salty-sour-spicy concept without animal protein. The sun-dried tomato provides the missing umami without the anchovy. It is honest in what it is.
10. Smoked Sardine Gilda
Smoked sardine fillet + guindilla + Manzanilla olive. More intense than the salmon, more rustic. Smoked sardine has a more pronounced flavor that combines especially well with good quality green olives. It is a lesser-known but very balanced variant.
Comparative table of variants
| Variant | Protein | Acid | Spicy | Difficulty | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic | Cantabrian Anchovy | Manzanilla olive | Piparra | Easy | Medium |
| "00" Anchovy | Premium "00" Anchovy | Manzanilla olive | Piparra | Easy | High |
| Smoked Salmon | Smoked Salmon | Manzanilla olive | Piparra | Easy | Medium |
| Prawn | Cooked Prawn | Stuffed olive | Piparra | Easy | High |
| Bonito | Canned Bonito | Black olive | Piparra | Easy | Medium |
| Txistorra | Fried Txistorra | Manzanilla olive | Piparra | Medium | Low |
| Pickled Anchovy | Pickled Anchovy | Manzanilla olive | Piparra | Easy | Low |
| Cheese | Anchovy + Idiazábal | Manzanilla olive | Piparra | Easy | High |
| Vegan | Sun-dried tomato | Kalamata olive | Piparra | Easy | Low |
| Smoked Sardine | Smoked Sardine | Manzanilla olive | Piparra | Easy | Medium |
Artisan Cantabrian Anchovy Gilda Handmade Gourmet
Available at Bacalalo.com with refrigerated shipping in 24-48h
How to make perfect gildas: bar tricks
After 35 years selling gilda products at Mercat del Ninot, these are the mistakes I see repeated:
- Guindilla peppers that are too big: the guindilla should be folded in a zigzag 2-3 times to be compact. If it's too long, cut it. The skewer shouldn't look like a shish kebab.
- Olives with pits: always pitted. No one wants to spit out a pit at a bar.
- Cold anchovies: take the anchovies out of the fridge 10-15 minutes beforehand. Cold dulls the flavor.
- Too much oil: a subtle drizzle, not a pool. The gilda is eaten with your fingers.
- Disordered assembly: the classic order is guindilla (bottom) → olive (middle) → anchovy (top). You eat it starting from the top.
For large quantities (parties, events), prepare them in advance and arrange them on a tray with a little oil from the anchovy jar. Cover them with plastic wrap and refrigerate. Take them out 10-15 minutes before serving. Don't prepare them the day before: the guindilla loses texture and the anchovy dries out. For more assembly details, our definitive gilda guide has the complete step-by-step.
Pairing: what to drink with a gilda
The gilda calls for something to cleanse the palate between bites:
- Txakoli: the canonical pairing. Acidic, light, with subtle bubbles. The acidity of txakoli cuts through the fat of the anchovy.
- Natural cider: Basque or Asturian. Same logic as txakoli: acidity and freshness.
- Manzanilla de Sanlúcar: for variants with pickled anchovy. The salinity of manzanilla enhances the vinegar.
- Pilsner beer: the universal option. Cold, bitter, clean.
- Vermouth: for variants with cheese or txistorra. The sweetness of vermouth balances the fat.
Jar of A92 anchovy gildas - 2kg
"00" Cantabrian Anchovies Gourmet Selection — The large fillet for a memorable gilda. Minimum 12 months curing, clean flavor, and firm texture. View anchovies
Frequently asked questions
How many gildas per person for an appetizer?
Between 3 and 5 gildas per person if it's an appetizer before a meal. If it's the main snack (informal dinner), calculate 6-8 per person, combining variants. For 10 people for an appetizer, prepare about 40-50 gildas.
Can gildas be made in advance?
Yes, up to 4-5 hours in advance. Assemble the gildas, arrange them on a tray, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate. Take them out 10-15 minutes before serving. Don't prepare them the day before: the guindilla loses texture and the anchovy dries out.
What guindilla pepper to use if I can't find Ibarra piparras?
Navarre or La Rioja pickled guindilla peppers are the most faithful alternative. Avoid dried guindillas (cayenne, bird's eye) — they are too spicy and lack the vinegar acidity that the gilda needs. The guindilla's vinegar is an essential part of the balance.
Is the gilda eaten in one bite?
Ideally yes, if the size allows. It is removed from the skewer with your teeth, starting with the anchovy (top). If it's large, two bites. The important thing is that each bite has something of each ingredient — that's why correct assembly matters.
Why is it called gilda?
Because of the movie Gilda (1946) starring Rita Hayworth. The patrons of the Casa Vallés bar in San Sebastián named the pintxo this because, like the character, it was "green, salty, and a little spicy." The name was registered in 2012 as culinary heritage of Donostia.
What is the difference between a gilda and a banderilla?
A gilda is a specific type of banderilla: it always has an olive, a guindilla pepper, and an anchovy. A banderilla is the generic concept of food skewered on a stick. All gildas are banderillas, but not all banderillas are gildas.
The gilda is a perfect example that the best dishes are the simplest — if the product is good. Three ingredients, a skewer, zero cooking. And 10 variants so you never get bored.
If you assemble gildas with properly cured Cantabrian anchovies, you don't need any variant to impress. But if you want to explore, the 10 options in this guide cover all tastes: from the untouchable classic to the unapologetically vegan.
Marc González Sáez · Bacalalo · Mercat del Ninot, Barcelona (since 1990)
Related articles: Gildas: definitive guide · Gildas and appetizers collection
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