The gilda is the most famous pintxo from the Basque Country and probably the perfect appetizer: olive, pickled pepper, and anchovy on a stick. But there are at least 10 variations worth knowing. Here they all are, with proportions, assembly, and a comparative table.
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Origin of the Gilda: from San Sebastián to the world
The gilda was born in the Casa Vallés bar in San Sebastián in the 1940s. Its name pays homage to the film Gilda (1946) starring Rita Hayworth — green, salty, and a little spicy, just like the character. It's a pintxo that isn't cooked: it's assembled. And in that simplicity lies its genius.
The original recipe is inflexible in its composition: Manzanilla olive, Ibarra pepper (piparra), and Cantabrian anchovy, all skewered on a stick. There's no cooking, no elaborate preparation, no trick. Just three ingredients that enhance each other.
From San Sebastián, it spread throughout the Basque Country, Navarre, and today it's essential on any pintxo bar in Spain. But in that expansion, variations were born that respect the spirit (salty-sour-spicy on a stick) while changing the protagonists.
The classic gilda: ingredients and exact assembly
Before exploring the variations, you need to master the original. Here are the ingredients for 10 classic gildas:
- 10 Ibarra pickled peppers (piparras) — in vinegar, drained. If you can't find Ibarra, those from Navarre or La Rioja will do.
- 10 Manzanilla olives — pitted, in brine. Manzanilla is the standard; Gordal is too large.
- 20 Cantabrian anchovy fillets — 2 per gilda, rolled or folded.
- 10 long skewers — barbecue or pintxo skewers (8-10 cm).
- Extra virgin olive oil — a drizzle on top when serving.
Assembly: First skewer the pickled pepper (folded in a zigzag so it stays compact), then the olive, and finally the anchovy folded in half. The order matters: the anchovy goes on top because it's the first thing that touches the palate when eaten.
You can prepare them up to 2 hours in advance. Keep them refrigerated, covered with film, and take them out 10 minutes before serving. If you need top-quality anchovies, here is our selection of gildas and appetizers.
Handmade Artisanal Anchovy Gilda Gourmet
Available at Bacalalo.com with refrigerated delivery in 24-48h
10 types of gildas you should try
1. Classic Gilda (the original)
Manzanilla olive + Ibarra pickled pepper + Cantabrian anchovy. Already described above. It's the benchmark against which all others are measured. Perfect balance between salty (anchovy), sour (olive), and spicy (pickled pepper).
2. "00" Anchovy Gilda
Same structure as the classic, but using "00" anchovy fillets — the largest, cured for a minimum of 14 months. The anchovy takes up more space on the skewer and its flavor is more complex, with notes of cured ham. It's the premium gilda served by author bars in Donostia.
3. Smoked Salmon Gilda
Replaces the anchovy with a rolled strip of smoked salmon. Keeps the olive and pickled pepper. It's milder than the original, with a smoky touch that combines surprisingly well with the piparra. Works as an option for those who find anchovy too intense.
4. Prawn Gilda
Cooked prawn (peeled, leaving the tail) + pickled pepper + anchovy-stuffed olive. It's more visually appealing than the classic and has a sweet seafood note that counteracts the spiciness. Served cold. It's a favorite for summer dinners and celebrations.
5. White Tuna Gilda
Canned white tuna chunk (drained) + pickled pepper + black olive. Replaces the Manzanilla olive with black Aragon olive so as not to compete with the tuna in flavor. It's heartier than the classic and works well as an appetizer before a light meal.
6. Txistorra Gilda
Fried txistorra slice + pickled pepper + olive. It's the only variation that requires cooking (frying the txistorra for 2 minutes per side). The contrast between the fat of the txistorra and the sourness of the pickled pepper is addictive. Served warm, not cold.
7. Pickled Anchovy Gilda
Pickled anchovy (rolled) + pickled pepper + olive. Replaces the saltiness of the anchovy with the sourness of the vinegar. It's fresher than the original and very popular in southern Spain, where pickled anchovies are king. It doubles the acidity, so moderate the pickled pepper.
8. Cheese Gilda
Idiazábal cheese (or cured Manchego) chunk + pickled pepper + olive + anchovy. Adds a fourth element without breaking the balance. Smoked Idiazábal cheese is the best companion to anchovy — fatty, umami, smoky against salty and cured.
9. Vegan Gilda
Kalamata olive + Ibarra pickled pepper + sun-dried tomato in oil + large caper. It doesn't try to imitate the gilda, but rather reinterprets the concept of salty-sour-spicy without animal protein. The sun-dried tomato provides the umami missing without anchovy. It's honest in what it is.
10. Smoked Sardine Gilda
Smoked sardine fillet + pickled pepper + Manzanilla olive. More intense than the salmon, more rustic. Smoked sardine has a more pronounced flavor that combines particularly well with good quality green olives. It's a little-known but very balanced variation.
Comparative table of variations
| Variation | Protein | Sour | Spicy | Difficulty | Cost |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Classic | Cantabrian Anchovy | Manzanilla olive | Piparra | Easy | Medium |
| "00" Anchovy | "00" premium Anchovy | Manzanilla olive | Piparra | Easy | High |
| Smoked Salmon | Smoked Salmon | Manzanilla olive | Piparra | Easy | Medium |
| Prawn | Cooked Prawn | Stuffed olive | Piparra | Easy | High |
| White Tuna | Canned White Tuna | Black olive | Piparra | Easy | Medium |
| Txistorra | Fried Txistorra | Manzanilla olive | Piparra | Medium | Low |
| Pickled Anchovy | Pickled Anchovy | Manzanilla olive | Piparra | Easy | Low |
| Cheese | Anchovy + Idiazábal | Manzanilla olive | Piparra | Easy | High |
| Vegan | Sun-dried tomato | Kalamata olive | Piparra | Easy | Low |
| Smoked Sardine | Smoked Sardine | Manzanilla olive | Piparra | Easy | Medium |
Handmade Artisanal Cantabrian Anchovy Gilda Gourmet
Available at Bacalalo.com with refrigerated delivery in 24-48h
How to make perfect gildas: bar tricks
After 35 years selling products for gildas at Mercat del Ninot, these are the mistakes I see repeated:
- Piparras too large: the pickled pepper should be folded in a zigzag 2-3 times to be compact. If it's too long, cut it. The skewer should not look like a shish kebab.
- Olives with pits: always pitted. Nobody wants to spit out a pit in a bar.
- Cold anchovies: take the anchovies out of the fridge 10-15 minutes before. Cold dulls the flavor.
- Too much oil: a subtle drizzle, not a pool. The gilda is eaten with the fingers.
- Disordered assembly: the classic order is pickled pepper (bottom) → olive (middle) → anchovy (top). It's eaten starting from the top.
For large quantities (parties, events), prepare them in advance and arrange them on a tray with a little oil from the anchovy jar. Cover them with film and refrigerate. For more assembly details, our ultimate gilda guide has the complete step-by-step.
Pairing: what to drink with a gilda
The gilda calls for something to cleanse the palate between bites:
- Txakoli: the canonical pairing. Sour, light, with a subtle fizz. The acidity of the txakoli cuts through the fat of the anchovy.
- Natural cider: Basque or Asturian. Same logic as txakoli: acidity and freshness.
- Manzanilla de Sanlúcar: for variations with pickled anchovy. The salinity of the manzanilla enhances the vinegar.
- Pilsner beer: the universal option. Cold, bitter, clean.
- Vermouth: for variations with cheese or txistorra. The sweetness of the vermouth balances the fat.
Jar of A92 anchovy gildas - 2kg
Cantabrian Anchovies "00" Gourmet Selection — The large fillet for a memorable gilda. Cured for a minimum of 12 months, clean flavor, and firm texture. View anchovies
Frequently asked questions
How many gildas per person for an appetizer?
Between 3 and 5 gildas per person if it's an appetizer before a meal. If it's the main snack (informal dinner), calculate 6-8 per person, combining variations. For 10 people as an appetizer, prepare about 40-50 gildas.
Can gildas be made in advance?
Yes, up to 4-5 hours in advance. Assemble the gildas, arrange them on a tray, cover with cling film and refrigerate. Take them out 10-15 minutes before serving. Do not prepare them the day before: the pickled pepper loses texture and the anchovy dries out.
What kind of pickled pepper should I use if I can't find Ibarra piparras?
Pickled peppers from Navarre or La Rioja are the most faithful alternative. Avoid dry chilies (cayenne, bird's eye) — they are too spicy and lack the acidity of vinegar that the gilda needs. The vinegar in the pickled pepper is an essential part of the balance.
Is the gilda eaten in one bite?
Ideally yes, if the size allows. It's removed from the skewer with the teeth, starting with the anchovy (at the top). If it's large, two bites. The important thing is that each bite has something from each ingredient — that's why correct assembly matters.
Why is it called gilda?
After the movie Gilda (1946) starring Rita Hayworth. The patrons of Casa Vallés bar in San Sebastián named the pintxo after her because, like the character, it was "green, salty, and a little spicy." The name was registered in 2012 as culinary heritage of Donostia.
What is the difference between a gilda and a banderilla?
A gilda is a specific type of banderilla: it always contains olive, pickled pepper, and anchovy. A banderilla is the generic concept of food skewered on a stick. All gildas are banderillas, but not all banderillas are gildas.
The gilda is a perfect example that the best dishes are the simplest — if the product is good. Three ingredients, a stick, zero cooking. And 10 variations so you never get bored.
If you assemble gildas with properly cured Cantabrian anchovies, you don't need any variations to impress. But if you want to explore, the 10 options in this guide cover all tastes: from the untouchable classic to the unapologetically vegan.
Marc González Sáez · Bacalalo · Mercat del Ninot, Barcelona (since 1990)
Related articles: Gildas: ultimate guide · Gildas and appetizers collection
