What distinguishes an authentic "soldadito de Pavía": it's not just battered cod. The characteristic orange-golden color comes from the saffron in the batter; the crunchy texture on the outside and juicy on the inside depends on two exact variables: the desalinating point and the oil temperature. Without these two factors, you will get fried cod, not "soldaditos de Pavía".
At Bacalalo, we have been selecting each piece of cod at Mercat del Ninot since 1990.
| Factor | Correct value | Sign of error |
|---|---|---|
| Cod desalinating | 36-48h in fridge, change every 8h | Salty or bland |
| Oil temperature | 175-180°C | Raw or burnt batter |
| Saffron in batter | 0.1g (a pinch) per 100g flour | No golden color |
| Cod thickness | 1.5-2cm | Too thin: dry |
| Frying time | 2-3 min per side | Soft batter or tough cod |
History: why are they called "soldaditos de Pavía"?
The name is one of the most curious in Spanish gastronomy. There are two main theories:
- Military theory: the orange color of the "soldaditos" recalls the red uniform with yellow trimmings of the Regimiento de Pavía, an infantry corps of the 19th-century Spanish army. Cordovan and Sevillian tavern owners would have named the dish due to this visual similarity.
- Culinary theory: the city of Pavia (Italy) has a tradition of saffron-battered dishes, and the recipe might have arrived in Spain with troops during the Italian wars of the 16th century.
What is certain is that the dish has been documented in Córdoba since the 19th century and is part of Andalusia's culinary heritage, with an obligatory presence in taverns during Holy Week.
What fish are "soldaditos de Pavía"? Cod or hake?
The original recipe for "soldaditos de Pavía" is made with cod: strips of desalted cod battered in "gabardina" batter with saffron. This is the version documented in Andalusian and Madrid taverns since the 19th century, and the one that respects the traditional name of the dish.
Over time, hake variants appeared, especially outside Andalusia, because hake is cheaper and has a milder flavor. They are valid as a battered dish, but technically they are hake in batter, not authentic "soldaditos de Pavía". The key difference:
- With cod: deep, saline flavor, firm fiber that withstands frying without falling apart. This is the flavor that defines the dish.
- With hake: more delicate texture and neutral flavor; it releases more water and the batter may be less crispy.
If you want the tavern result, use good quality desalted cod. For other ways to prepare it, our guides on cod fritters and Andalusian-style cod will be useful.
Ingredients for "Soldaditos de Pavía" (4 tapas servings)
- 500g desalted cod (loins or thick flakes)
- 150g all-purpose flour
- 1 large egg
- 150ml cold beer or sparkling water
- A pinch of saffron threads (0.1-0.2g)
- Half a teaspoon of sweet paprika
- Salt to taste (lightly: the cod already has residual salt)
- Olive oil for frying (minimum 1 liter in a deep pan)
- Lemon for serving
Step-by-step preparation
- Desalt the cod well in advance (see specific section). The cod should be desalted but with a slight hint of residual salt.
- Infuse the saffron: lightly toast saffron threads in a dry pan for 30 seconds and dissolve in 2 tablespoons of hot water. Let steep for 10 minutes. The liquid will turn an intense golden-orange color.
- Prepare the batter: mix the flour with the egg, cold beer, paprika, saffron infusion, and a pinch of salt. The batter should have the consistency of liquid yogurt: neither too thick nor too thin. Let rest for 30 minutes in the refrigerator.
- Cut the cod: dry thoroughly with paper towels and cut into strips 5-7cm long and 1.5-2cm thick. These are the proportions of authentic "soldaditos".
- Heat the oil: in a deep pan or fryer, heat the oil to 175-180°C. Check with a kitchen thermometer or by inserting the handle of a wooden spoon: if it bubbles around it, the temperature is correct.
- Batter and fry: dip each cod strip in the batter (shake off excess) and fry in small batches to avoid lowering the oil temperature. 2-3 minutes per side until deeply golden.
- Drain and serve: rest for 2-3 minutes on absorbent paper. Serve immediately with lemon wedges.
Desalting the cod: the key to the dish
For "soldaditos de Pavía", the desalting point is critical: the cod should be almost desalted, but with a touch of residual salt. Without salt, the strip is bland inside the batter; with too much salt, the dish is inedible.
- Recommended process: cover the cod with cold water in the refrigerator, changing it every 8 hours, for 36-48 hours for thick flakes (24 hours for thin flakes).
- Salt test: taste a small piece of cod before battering. It should have a pleasant slight saltiness, similar to a lightly salted fresh cheese.
- Icelandic vs. Norwegian cod: Icelandic cod (Gadus morhua) has firmer fiber and is better suited for battering than Norwegian cod; it withstands frying better without falling apart.
The "gabardina" batter with saffron
The batter is what distinguishes "soldaditos de Pavía" from common battered cod:
- Cold beer or sparkling water: the CO₂ creates bubbles that, when evaporated by heat, leave a crispy and light texture. Cold water slows down gluten development, preventing the batter from becoming gummy.
- Saffron: it's not just visual. Saffron provides a subtle floral aroma that complements the cod. Without it, the dish loses its Andalusian identity.
- Do not overmix: mix just enough to combine the ingredients. Gluten should not develop: the batter should have some lumps, which ensures a more irregular and crispy crust.
- Resting in cold: 30 minutes in the refrigerator stabilizes the temperature and improves adherence to the cod.
Temperature control during frying
Frying at the wrong temperature ruins the texture:
- Below 165°C: the batter absorbs oil. Result: greasy and soggy "soldaditos".
- Between 175-180°C: the water in the cod evaporates quickly, the batter seals and becomes crispy. The cod steams internally. Perfect result.
- Above 190°C: the batter browns too quickly and the cod remains cold inside.
- Trick without a thermometer: drop a small amount of batter into the oil. If it sinks to the bottom and immediately rises while bubbling, the oil is ready.
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Frequently Asked Questions
Can "soldaditos" be made with frozen cod?
Yes, but thaw completely in the refrigerator before desalting. Frozen cod releases more water when thawed, which prolongs the desalting time. Dry very well before battering.
Can I use gluten-free flour?
Rice flour or gluten-free flour blends work well for the "gabardina" batter. The result is equally crispy, sometimes lighter. Gluten-free beer maintains the CO₂ effect.
How long do they last once fried?
"Soldaditos de Pavía" lose their crispy texture in 15-20 minutes. It is a dish that should be eaten freshly fried. They cannot be successfully reheated in a microwave; the oven at 200°C for 5 minutes can restore some crispiness.
What sauce do they go with?
Traditionally, with lemon wedges. In modern versions: mild aioli, paprika mayonnaise, or a yogurt sauce with dill. In Seville, they are served without sauce, only lemon.
For this recipe, you need quality desalted cod. At Bacalalo, we work with Icelandic Gadus morhua cod cured in salt, available in flakes and loins with refrigerated shipping.
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