
Quick summary: A tasting batch of premium Cantabrian anchovy combines different sizes (00, 0, 1) and/or different Santoña brands, with neutral bread, butter, and olive oil. Real premium anchovy is Engraulis encrasicolus from the Cantabrian Sea, cured for 9-12 months, hand-filleted, in olive oil. Size 00 = €1.50-€2.50 per fillet (May 2026); size 1 = €0.40-€0.90. Reputable brands: Codesa, Don Bocarte, Olasagasti, Sanfilippo. A tasting for 6-8 people requires 3-4 tins and 30-40 min.
What defines a real Cantabrian anchovy
To speak with authority, here are the technical details:
- Species: Engraulis encrasicolus. Any other species is not European anchovy.
- Area: Cantabrian Sea (FAO 27.VIII). Fishing season primarily April-June.
- Curing: minimum 6 months, premium 9-12 months. Slow curing is key to concentrated flavor.
- Cleaning and filleting: manual by hand. Machines destroy texture.
- Preservation: olive oil (extra virgin in premium range). Sunflower oil = medium-low range.
- Producer origin: Santoña, Laredo, Colindres, Castro Urdiales (Cantabria). There is also serious production in Getaria/Ondarroa (Basque Country).
The anchovy my grandfather used to sell
Sizes 00, 0, 1 — verifiable differences
| Size | Fillet length | Fillet weight | Price per fillet | Recommended use |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Size 00 (extra selection) | 14-17 cm | 7-10 g | €1.50-€2.50 | Premium tasting, gift, event |
| Size 0 (selection) | 12-14 cm | 5-7 g | €0.80-€1.50 | Standard premium tapa |
| Size 1 (standard) | 10-12 cm | 3-5 g | €0.40-€0.90 | Daily use, omelette, salad |
| Size 2 / industrial | <10 cm | <3 g | €0.15-€0.35 | Volume, not tasting |
May 2026 figures are indicative. Size also depends on the fishing season and time of year.
The difference between 00 and 1 is not just "larger". Size 00 comes from adult anchovies (3-4 years old) with enough fat for slow curing without losing texture. Size 1 is young or small anchovy — a more subtle flavor, ideal for bulk use but not for tasting.

Reputable brands from Santoña and Laredo
Selection of historic producers with serious production:
| Brand | Origin | Characteristic | Positioning |
|---|---|---|---|
| Codesa | Santoña | Traditional curing 12+ months | Classic premium |
| Don Bocarte | Santoña | Cod family, process control | Premium gourmet |
| Olasagasti | Getaria | Basque Country, tradition | Artisan premium |
| Conservera de Esteban | Santoña | Slow curing | Standard premium |
| Sanfilippo | Santoña | Italo-Cantabrian, historic tradition | Premium tasting |
| Catalina | Santoña | Small family business | Pure artisan |
| Solano | Laredo | Traditional, no marketing | Solid artisan |
There are many other equally reputable small canneries. The local "Anchoa del Cantábrico" or "Sello Calidad Cantábrico" (Cantabrian Anchovy Quality Seal) provides an additional guarantee of origin.
Red flag: anchovy with "del Cantábrico" brand but packed in another region with no clear traceability. Ask the supplier for the specific producer before buying.
Real price per fillet (May 2026)
Prices updated May 2026. Indicative figures verified with labels and public listings. They may vary by region, season, and stock rotation. Verify before purchasing.
How to calculate price per fillet (the honest metric):
| Format | Retail price per tin | Price per fillet | Use |
|---|---|---|---|
| 50 g tin (≈6-8 size 1 fillets) | €4-€6 | €0.50-€1.00 | Standard home use |
| 80 g tin (≈10-12 size 0 fillets) | €12-€18 | €1.00-€1.80 | Common premium tapa |
| 160 g tin (≈16-20 size 0 fillets) | €20-€28 | €1.00-€1.75 | Better €/fillet |
| 50 g size 00 tin (≈4-6 XL fillets) | €10-€15 | €1.50-€3.00 | Tasting / gift |
How to assemble a tasting batch
Three batch formats depending on objective:
Basic batch (home tasting 4-6 people)
- 3 tins of different sizes from the same producer (00, 0, 1)
- Neutral toasted bread + artisanal butter
- 1 bottle of Fino or Manzanilla sherry
- Estimated cost: €40-€65
Premium batch (tasting 6-8 people)
- 4 tins: 2 different brands in size 00, 2 brands in size 0
- Bread, butter, extra virgin olive oil, mild vinegar
- 2 bottles of Fino + Manzanilla
- Estimated cost: €80-€130
Professional batch (corporate tasting 12+ people)
- 5-6 tins of size 00 from different brands (Codesa, Don Bocarte, Sanfilippo, Olasagasti, Catalina, Solano)
- Differentiated bread, 2-3 different butters, oil, vinegar, capers
- Fino + Manzanilla + optional vermouth
- Tasting slates with technical notes
- Estimated cost: €150-€300
Step-by-step tasting: what to look for
- Visualize the fillet: length (whole fillet, not broken), characteristic reddish color, oil sheen. Short broken fillet = industrial processing.
- Smell: marine, salty, slightly cured. It should NOT smell strongly fishy or rancid. A rancid smell indicates oxidation.
- Texture in the mouth: firm but soft, flakes when chewed, no hard gristle. Granular or rubbery texture = curing problem.
- Initial taste: balanced salty, not aggressive. Salt should complement, not dominate.
- Aftertaste: long, complex, marine. If it disappears in 5 seconds = industrial anchovy. Real premium lasts 30+ seconds.
- Oil: taste a drop — it should taste of oil with anchovy notes, not anchovy with masked oil. Better with extra virgin olive oil.

Pairing for a tasting event
- Fino de Jerez (Tío Pepe, La Bota, Inocente): unbeatable classic, combined salinity.
- Manzanilla de Sanlúcar: fresher, ideal for summer.
- Artisanal white vermouth: for a more relaxed event, Catalan vermouth on tap.
- Cava brut nature: if the event includes other seafood tapas.
- Txakoli: if the tasting is of Basque producers.
Avoid strong red wines (they overpower), sweet white wines (they clash with the salt).
5 common mistakes when organizing a tasting
- Mixing premium and supermarket anchovies without warning. Well-intentioned but distorts — better a pure premium tasting.
- Dense and aromatic bread. Neutral toasted bread (baguette or coca de pa) lets the fillet shine. Cereal or aromatic bread interferes.
- Salted butter. Anchovies already provide salt — salted butter amplifies it. Use artisanal unsalted butter.
- Serving too cold. Cold numbs nuances. Bring to room temperature 15-20 min before serving.
- Tasting without notes. For an event, a blackboard with categories (texture/flavor/aftertaste/fillet length) helps comparison.
Conclusion
A serious Cantabrian anchovy tasting set is put together by combining different sizes (00, 0, 1) and brands, with neutral accompaniments (bread, butter, olive oil, fino). The difference between premium 00 anchovies and supermarket anchovies is real and verifiable in texture, fillet length, color, and aftertaste. For a corporate event, a professional set with 5-6 brands of size 00.
If you want to assemble your own set, at Bacalalo we select directly from Santoña producers — ask for custom combinations for home or corporate tastings.
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