Kokotxas al Pil Pil, Arguiñano Style: Traditional Basque Recipe

What are kokotxas?

Kokotxas (or cocochas in Castilian Spanish) are the lower part of the cod or hake jaw — what would anatomically be the "jowl" of the fish. They are small, oval-shaped pieces with a unique texture: gelatinous, tender, and extraordinarily juicy.

Each cod has only two kokotxas, which makes them a scarce and highly prized cut. In the Basque Country, they have been considered a delicacy for centuries. Arrantzales (Basque fishermen) would separate them from the fish before selling it, reserving them for their own consumption — a sign that they always knew they were the best part.

What makes kokotxas special is their very high concentration of collagen and gelatin. This gelatin allows for a much easier pil pil emulsion than with loins: having more gelatinous surface in proportion to their size, the sauce forms almost by itself with the movement of the casserole.

In the gastronomic societies of Euskadi, kokotxas al pil pil are served as a dish of honor. It is not an appetizer or a tapa: it is the main course, the highlight of the meal.

Arguiñano and kokotxas: his approach

Karlos Arguiñano has prepared kokotxas al pil pil dozens of times on his Antena 3 show over the years. His philosophy is always the same: let the product dictate. With kokotxas, that means not complicating the recipe.

Key points of Arguiñano's approach to kokotxas:

• Fresh, good-sized kokotxas: neither too small (they fall apart) nor too large. A medium size that allows them to cook evenly.
• Very thinly sliced garlic: to brown slowly and release its flavor without burning.
• Ibarra chili: its mild spicy touch is the Basque signature of the dish.
• Mild extra virgin olive oil: arbequina or similar, so it doesn't compete with the fish's flavor.
• Constant pan movement: Arguiñano always says that kokotxas emulsify "on their own" if you move them well.

His version is purist: it doesn't include parsley (though he admits it "looks nice"), no onion, no tomato. It is the essence of pil pil in its most concentrated expression.

Ingredients for 4 servings

Step-by-step recipe

Step 1 — Prepare the kokotxas. If they are salted cod, they must be well desalted (24-36 hours in cold water, changing every 8 hours). Pat them dry with kitchen paper. If they are fresh hake, simply pat them dry thoroughly and season lightly with salt.

Step 2 — Confit garlic and chili. Pour 200 ml of olive oil into a wide, shallow earthenware casserole. Over low heat, add the thinly sliced garlic and Ibarra chili peppers. Let them brown gently for 3-4 minutes. The garlic should be golden, never dark. Remove the garlic and chilies and set them aside.

Step 3 — Cook the kokotxas. With the heat on minimum, place the kokotxas in the flavored oil. The most gelatinous part (the most irregular and shiny) should face down in contact with the oil. Cook for 2-3 minutes per side. Kokotxas are delicate: they fall apart if you handle them too much. Flip them only once carefully using a thin spatula.

Step 4 — Start the emulsion. With the kokotxas still in the casserole, begin to move the casserole with a circular wrist motion. Unlike loins, kokotxas release gelatin quickly, so the emulsion can start with them inside. You'll see how the oil begins to thicken and turn whitish in 2-3 minutes.

Step 5 — Complete the emulsion. If the emulsion needs help, remove the casserole from the heat and continue stirring. The drop in temperature favors binding. Stir constantly for 3-5 minutes until you get a creamy, silky, whitish sauce that coats the kokotxas.

Step 6 — Serve. Return the sliced garlic and chili peppers over the kokotxas. If desired, sprinkle very finely chopped parsley. Serve immediately in the same earthenware casserole. Pil pil doesn't wait.

Emulsion secrets with kokotxas

Emulsifying with kokotxas is significantly easier than with cod loins, and there are scientific reasons for this:

1. Higher gelatin/weight ratio: kokotxas are practically pure gelatin and collagen. While a cod loin concentrates gelatin only in the skin, the entire kokotxa is gelatinous.
2. Lower temperature: kokotxas are cooked at a lower temperature than loins (minimum heat is sufficient), which favors emulsion.
3. Emulsion during cooking: you don't need to remove the kokotxas to emulsify, as is the case with loins. The emulsion starts while they are cooking.
4. Less oil needed: 200 ml is enough for 500 g of kokotxas, compared to the 250 ml needed for 800 g of loins.
5. Shorter time: emulsion with kokotxas forms in 2-5 minutes of stirring, compared to 5-8 minutes with loins.

A trick Arguiñano sometimes uses: if the emulsion doesn't start, add a teaspoon of cold water to the hot oil. The thermal shock helps initiate the binding of the gelatin with the oil.

To delve deeper into the world of kokotxas, consult our complete guide to kokotxas with all variants and preparations.

Cod kokotxas vs hake kokotxas

Both are excellent for pil pil. Cod kokotxas are the most traditional in the Basque Country and those Arguiñano uses most frequently. Hake kokotxas are more delicate and subtle, preferred in high-end restaurants.

Common mistakes when cooking kokotxas al pil pil

• Too high heat: kokotxas are extremely sensitive to heat. Minimum heat is sufficient. If the oil bubbles, it's too hot.
• Stirring kokotxas with a spoon: never touch them with a spoon or fork. Move the entire casserole with your wrist. If you need to flip them, use a thin, very gentle spatula.
• Overcooking: kokotxas overcook in seconds. 2-3 minutes per side is enough. Overcooked, they become rubbery and lose their creamy texture.
• Not drying them well: surface water causes splattering and hinders emulsion. Dry them thoroughly with kitchen paper.
• Using strong-flavored oil: a picual oil or similar masks the delicate flavor of the kokotxas. Always use mild oil.
• Serving lukewarm: kokotxas pil pil should be served hot. The sauce loses texture when it cools. Serve in the casserole directly from the heat to the table.

If you're interested in mastering the pil pil technique in all its variations, check out our article on pil pil in MasterChef, where we analyze the most common mistakes made by contestants.

Pairing and serving

Kokotxas al pil pil are a top-tier dish that deserves an equally excellent accompaniment:

• Wine: a dry, fresh txakoli (Getariako Txakolina) is the classic pairing. Its acidity cuts through the richness of the sauce. Alternative: an Albariño from Rías Baixas.
• Bread: mandatory. A crusty country bread for dipping in the pil pil sauce. It's a sin to waste that sauce.
• Garnish: strictly speaking, kokotxas do not come with a garnish. They are served alone in the casserole. If you need something extra, some confit potatoes or white asparagus.
• Presentation: always in an individual or shared earthenware casserole. Never serve on a flat plate — pil pil needs a container that maintains temperature.

In the Basque Country, kokotxas al pil pil are eaten in reverent silence. No joke: it's one of those dishes that invites you to concentrate on every bite.

Nutritional values per serving

Kokotxas are rich in natural collagen, omega-3, and high-quality protein. It's a carb-free dish, suitable for ketogenic diets. Olive oil provides oleic acid, healthy monounsaturated fats for the heart.

Conclusion

Kokotxas al pil pil Arguiñano-style are the quintessence of Basque cuisine: a dish that, with four ingredients, achieves gastronomic excellence. If you've ever doubted your ability to emulsify a pil pil, start with kokotxas — their high gelatin content means they almost do the work themselves.

The key to success lies in three factors: quality raw ingredients, minimum heat, and patience with the movement of the pan. If you respect these three principles, the result will be a silky sauce, tender kokotxas, and a top-notch culinary experience.

At Bacalalo, we work directly with producers who select the best cuts of cod, including kokotxas and skin-on loins. Discover our selection of desalted cod and bring Basque cuisine to your table.

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