Summary: Berasategui-style cod kokotxas are one of the jewels of Basque cuisine elevated to haute cuisine. Their technique is based on gentle confit and a pil pil emulsion that envelops the kokotxas in a creamy, pearly sauce, maintaining that gelatinous texture that makes them unique. We explain step-by-step how to replicate his style at home.
This recipe is inspired by Martín Berasategui's technique and style. It is not a literal reproduction, but our interpretation.
What are cod kokotxas?
Kokotxas (also spelled cocochas) are the lower part of the cod's jaw, a gelatinous, tender, and extraordinarily flavorful piece considered a delicacy in Basque gastronomy. Unlike other cuts of cod, kokotxas have a unique texture due to their high collagen content, making them ideal for emulsified sauces like pil pil.
They have been cooked in the Basque Country for centuries, but haute cuisine has put them on the international map. Chefs like Martín Berasategui, Juan Mari Arzak, and Pedro Subijana have turned this humble piece into the star of multi-Michelin-starred tasting menus.
If you want to delve deeper into this piece, we recommend our complete guide to cod cocochas, where we explain types, differences between cod and hake, and preparation techniques.
Berasategui and his philosophy with kokotxas
Martín Berasategui, with 12 Michelin stars distributed among his restaurants, is probably the chef who has most elevated traditional Basque cuisine without losing its essence. His flagship restaurant in Lasarte-Oria has been reinterpreting classics such as pil pil, hake in green sauce, and, of course, kokotxas for decades.
Berasategui's philosophy with kokotxas is based on three fundamental pillars:
- Temperature control: gentle confit at 55-65 °C, never above 70 °C
- Patient emulsion: constant circular motion for 8-10 minutes to achieve the pearly sauce
- Exceptional product: fresh skrei cod or North Atlantic cod kokotxas, never frozen if possible
The result is a kokotxa that melts in your mouth, enveloped in a pil pil sauce so creamy that it seems impossible that it only contains oil, garlic, and the fish's own gelatin.
Ingredients for 4 people
- 500 g desalted cod kokotxas
- 250 ml mild extra virgin olive oil (arbequina)
- 6 sliced garlic cloves
- 1-2 dried Basque chili peppers
- Fresh chopped parsley
- Flaky salt (for finishing)
Recommended product
For this recipe, you need first-quality cod kokotxas, already desalted and ready to cook. In our desalted cod collection, you will find the best pieces selected directly from the supplier. Artisanal desalted, refrigerated shipping in 24-48h.
Step-by-step recipe
This is our interpretation of Berasategui-style kokotxas, adapted for home cooking but maintaining the technical principles that define his version.
- Prepare the kokotxas: Pat them dry with absorbent paper and let them come to room temperature for 20 minutes outside the refrigerator. It is essential that they are at room temperature for uniform confit.
- Infuse the oil: Pour 250 ml of olive oil into a wide clay or cast iron pot. Over very low heat (50-55 °C), add the sliced garlic and chili peppers. Infuse for 5-6 minutes until the garlic is pale golden. Remove and set aside.
- Confit the kokotxas: With the oil at 55-65 °C, place the kokotxas in a single layer. Confit for 3-4 minutes per side, without the oil ever bubbling. The kokotxa should be firm on the outside and gelatinous on the inside.
- Remove and set aside: Remove the kokotxas with a spatula to a preheated plate. Cover them with aluminum foil.
- Create the emulsion: Remove the pot from the heat. Let the oil cool for 2-3 minutes to 50 °C. Begin to move the pot with a constant, rhythmic circular wrist motion. In 5-7 minutes, the oil and the gelatin released by the kokotxas will form a dense, pearly, and slightly whitish sauce. This is the pil pil.
- Plate: Return the kokotxas to the pot, generously cover with the sauce. Crown with the reserved golden garlic, chili pepper, and fresh chopped parsley. A pinch of flaky salt when serving.
The perfect emulsion: key to Berasategui's pil pil
The pil pil emulsion is, technically, an oil-in-water emulsion stabilized by collagen. The collagen released by the kokotxas (and cod in general) during confit acts as a natural emulsifier, similar to the lecithin in egg in mayonnaise.
The fundamental difference in Berasategui's technique compared to the traditional home version is:
- Lower temperature: By confiting at 55-65 °C instead of 70-80 °C, the collagen is released more gradually, resulting in a more stable emulsion.
- Extreme patience: The circular motion must be constant for 8-10 minutes. Most home cooks give up prematurely.
- Wide pot: The contact surface is crucial. The wider the pot, the easier the emulsion.
If the emulsion breaks, don't despair. Transfer the oil to a cold bowl, add a tablespoon of warm water, and whisk with a fork. Gradually pour it back over the kokotxas and repeat the circular motion.
Differences from the traditional Basque version
Kokotxa in pil pil is a classic in Basque bars and restaurants. Berasategui's version stands out in several key aspects:
| Aspect | Traditional version | Berasategui style |
|---|---|---|
| Confit temperature | 70-80 °C | 55-65 °C |
| Emulsion time | 3-5 minutes | 8-10 minutes |
| Sauce texture | Light, translucent | Dense, pearly |
| Plating | Clay pot | Flat plate, minimalist |
| Finish | Parsley | Parsley + flaky salt + garlic oil |
If you're interested in the more classic version of bacalao a la bilbaína (a close relative), don't miss our complete guide to bacalao a la bilbaína.
Professional plating
Berasategui's plating style is minimalist and elegant:
- White flat plate preheated in oven at 60 °C for 10 minutes
- Arrange 3-4 kokotxas in the center, forming a semicircle
- Pour the pil pil sauce around with a spoon, not directly on top
- Golden garlic precisely distributed over the kokotxas
- Very finely chopped fresh parsley, sprinkled from 30 cm high for even distribution
- A pinch of Maldon flaky salt just before serving
The key to haute cuisine plating is that each element has its place. Nothing is random.
Recommended pairing
Kokotxas in pil pil call for wines with enough body to accompany the richness of the sauce but without overpowering the delicacy of the fish:
- Txakoli de Getaria: The quintessential Basque option. Its acidity and slight effervescence cut through the richness of the pil pil.
- Albariño Rías Baixas: More body than txakoli, ideal if cod is the absolute protagonist.
- Godello del Bierzo: Mineral and structured, a surprising and modern pairing.
- Champagne Blanc de Blancs: The luxury option that Berasategui has recommended on more than one occasion.
Nutritional values per serving
| Nutrient | Quantity |
|---|---|
| Calories | ~380 kcal |
| Proteins | 22 g |
| Fats | 32 g (mostly EVOO) |
| Carbohydrates | 2 g |
| Collagen | High (natural source) |
🛒 Products used in this recipe
⭐ 4.9/5 · Refrigerated shipping 24-48h · Since 1990 at Mercat del Ninot
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Conclusion
Berasategui-style cod kokotxas are the perfect demonstration that Basque haute cuisine does not require exotic ingredients or impossible techniques. With four basic ingredients — kokotxas, oil, garlic, and chili pepper — and a patient confit and emulsion technique, a dish is achieved that competes with any multi-starred tasting menu.
The key is the product. Quality, well-desalted, and fresh cod kokotxas do 80% of the work. The other 20% is patience with the emulsion and never raising the temperature above 65 °C.
If you want to prepare this recipe with the best kokotxas, at Bacalalo we select premium desalted cod with refrigerated shipping throughout Spain.
About the author
Marc González Sáez — Founder of Bacalalo.com. Since 1990 at Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona, selecting the best seafood products. Expert in cod, anchovies, and gourmet preserves.
Frequently asked questions
Are cod kokotxas and cocochas the same?
Yes, kokotxas is the name in Basque and cocochas is the Castilianization. They refer to the same part: the lower jaw of cod (or hake). Cod kokotxas are more gelatinous and preferred for pil pil.
Can I use frozen kokotxas?
Yes, but the result will be inferior. Frozen kokotxas lose some of their collagen during thawing, which makes it difficult to emulsify the pil pil. If you use frozen ones, thaw them slowly in the refrigerator for 24 hours.
What is the exact temperature for confiting kokotxas?
Between 55 °C and 65 °C according to Berasategui's technique. A kitchen thermometer is highly recommended. If you don't have one, the reference is that the oil should NOT bubble at any point.
What do I do if the pil pil emulsion breaks?
Transfer the oil to a cold bowl, add a tablespoon of warm water, and whisk with a fork. Then gradually pour it back over the kokotxas and repeat the circular motion. The emulsion will recover in 2-3 minutes.
Which olive oil is best for pil pil?
Mild extra virgin olive oil, such as Arbequina. Picual or intense oils can overpower the fish flavor. Berasategui recommends an EVOO with a clean, mildly fruity flavor.
How long do kokotxas take to cook?
Confit takes 3-4 minutes per side (6-8 minutes total). Then the pil pil emulsion requires an additional 8-10 minutes. In total, about 20 minutes from when you start cooking.
Can I make this recipe with hake kokotxas?
Yes, but the result will be different. Hake kokotxas have less collagen than cod kokotxas, so the emulsion will be lighter. Compensate by adding a teaspoon of concentrated fish stock to the oil.
Where can I buy quality cod kokotxas online?
On Bacalalo.com you can find first-quality desalted cod, including pieces with kokotxas. Refrigerated shipping throughout Spain in 24-48 hours. We select directly from the supplier to guarantee maximum freshness.
