The secret to this recipe: anchovy spaghetti is one of the simplest and most underrated dishes in Mediterranean cuisine. With just 5 ingredients, you get a restaurant-quality dish. The key is not in the technique—which is simple—but in the quality of the anchovies and mastering two specific tricks: pasta water and the garlic’s cooking point. Here are the full details.
| Anchovy type | Quantity per serving | Result in pasta | Estimated price/serving |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cantabrian Anchovy 0 | 4-5 fillets | Deep umami, no bitterness | €1.50-€2.50 |
| Cantabrian Anchovy 00 | 3-4 fillets | More intense flavor, less salt | €2.00-€3.50 |
| Basic canned anchovy | 6-8 fillets | Salty, may be bitter | €0.30-€0.60 |
| Anchovy paste (tube) | 1 teaspoon | Convenient, uniform flavor | €0.20-€0.40 |
Origin: Italy's most honest dish
Spaghetti with anchovies is a direct variation of Neapolitan spaghetti aglio, olio e peperoncino — probably the oldest and most primitive pasta dish, documented since the 17th century. In its anchovy version (which is dominant in Sicily and the southern Adriatic), anchovy fillets in oil dissolve into the hot garlic oil, forming a naturally salty and umami-rich emulsion.
In Spain, the dish arrived with Italian immigration and quickly adapted: Cantabrian anchovies, larger and less salty than Italian ones, yield a different but equally excellent result.
Ingredients for anchovy spaghetti (2 servings)
- 200g spaghetti (No. 5 or No. 7, medium thickness)
- 8-10 Cantabrian anchovy fillets in olive oil
- 4 cloves of garlic
- 60ml extra virgin olive oil
- 1 dried chili or half a teaspoon of cayenne pepper
- 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
- Pasta cooking water (reserve 150ml)
- Salt for cooking pasta (14g/liter)
Step-by-step preparation
- Cook pasta al dente: Boil plenty of water with 14g of salt per liter. Add the spaghetti and cook for 2 minutes less than the package indicates (they will be perfectly al dente when finished with the sauté). Reserve 150ml of the cooking water before draining.
- Prepare the flavored oil: In a large skillet over medium-low heat, warm the oil with the sliced garlic and chili. Gently brown the garlic for 3-4 minutes until golden without burning.
- Dissolve the anchovies: Add the drained anchovy fillets and stir with a wooden spoon. In 1-2 minutes, they will completely dissolve into the oil, forming a golden-brown sauce. This step is the heart of the recipe.
- Add pasta water: Incorporate 100ml of the reserved cooking water. The starch from the water emulsifies with the oil, creating a creamy sauce (without cream or butter).
- Finish the pasta: Add the drained spaghetti and sauté over high heat for 1-2 minutes, adding more pasta water if the sauce thickens too much. The pasta will absorb the sauce and finish cooking.
- Parsley and serve: Turn off the heat, add the chopped parsley, and mix. Serve immediately on warm plates.
The pasta water trick (and other secrets)
The most common mistake in this recipe is draining the pasta and discarding the cooking water. That liquid, rich in starch, is what transforms the garlic oil into an emulsified sauce that adheres to every strand of spaghetti.
- The emulsion: Adding the cooking water to the hot oil and stirring creates an emulsion similar to a vinaigrette, without the need for cream or cheese. Result: light pasta with concentrated flavor.
- Garlic without burning: As in classic ajillo, start the garlic in cold oil and gradually increase the heat. Golden garlic (not brown) gives a sweet flavor; burnt garlic gives bitterness.
- Anchovies don't taste like anchovies: When dissolved in hot oil, anchovies lose their preserved flavor and provide a salty, umami base that is almost imperceptible to those who don't know they are there. Ideal for those who say they don't like anchovies.
- Thicker pasta, better integrated sauce: Spaghetti No. 7 (thicker) holds up better to the final sauté and retains more sauce than No. 3.
- Do not add cheese: In Italy, cheese is never added to pasta with fish. In this recipe either: cheese would mask the nuances of the anchovies.
Classic variations
- Alla puttanesca: Add black Kalamata olives (50g), capers (1 tablespoon), and peeled tomatoes (150g) after dissolving the anchovies. The most complex and hearty version.
- With fried breadcrumbs: The Sicilian version pasta con la mollica. Sauté coarse breadcrumbs in garlic oil until golden and sprinkle over the pasta like "poor man's cheese." Incredible texture.
- With capers and lemon: Add 1 tablespoon of rinsed capers and lemon zest at the end. The freshest and most summery version.
- With broccoli: Cook the broccoli in the same water as the pasta (for the last 3 minutes) and mash it slightly in the pan. The broccoli becomes part of the sauce.
How to choose the best anchovy for pasta
Not all canned anchovies are created equal. For pasta, the key factors are:
- Fillet size: Large fillets (caliber 0 or 00) have more flesh and a lower salt proportion. They dissolve better and yield more flavor per fillet.
- Preserving oil: Anchovies in extra virgin olive oil provide a better flavor base than those preserved in sunflower oil. The oil from the jar can also be used for cooking.
- Origin: Cantabrian anchovies (Santoña, Laredo, Castro Urdiales) are the most prestigious in Spain. Their characteristics are: large size, firm texture, and superior salt/umami balance.
- Curing: Anchovies cured for 18-24 months have a more complex and less salty profile than those cured for 6-8 months. For cooking, those cured for 12-18 months are ideal.
At Bacalalo, we select Cantabrian anchovies of caliber 0 and 00, in extra virgin olive oil, cured for 18-24 months. Available for refrigerated shipping throughout Spain.
Frequently Asked Questions
How many anchovies per person for pasta?
With Cantabrian anchovies of caliber 0, 4-5 fillets per serving are sufficient. With lower quality anchovies (saltier), reduce to 3 fillets. The rule is that the salt in the finished pasta should not exceed your palate's tolerance.
Can I use dry or fresh pasta?
Dry pasta (industrial spaghetti) works perfectly. Fresh pasta is not suitable: it's too delicate for the final sauté and its starch doesn't emulsify in the same way. For this recipe, always use dry durum wheat pasta.
Can it be made without spice?
Yes. The chili is optional. Without it, the dish loses some complexity but is still excellent. An alternative is to add freshly ground black pepper at the end.
Is this recipe suitable for coeliacs?
By substituting spaghetti with gluten-free pasta (rice or corn), the rest of the ingredients are naturally gluten-free. Always check the label of canned anchovies to confirm there is no cross-contamination.
Products you might be interested in
Discover more
