What is a brandada burrata

What is burrata brandada

If you know Italian burrata, you know the concept: a firm outer shell that, when cut, reveals a creamy interior that spills onto the plate. Now imagine that made entirely with cod.

Burrata brandada replaces mozzarella with an elastic mixture of hot-worked brandada (leek, potato, cream, and desalted cod emulsified until plastic), and the stracciatella filling with cod liver confit in smoked oil, shredded into creamy strands. The result is a white, pearlescent sphere that, when opened, releases a torrent of marine umami.

The natural accompaniment is a codium pil-pil: a sauce emulsified with the gelatin from cod skins, flavored with codium (a seaweed that tastes of the sea without being aggressive) and an intense green color that contrasts with the white of the burrata. Around it, crispy samphire, sea fennel, and edible flowers provide color, texture, and a natural saline touch.

It's a Michelin-star restaurant dish, but perfectly executable at home if you follow the steps patiently. I've served it at private dinners, and the effect is always the same: silence, then questions.

Complete ingredients (serves 4)

For the brandada (wrapper)

• 400 g desalted cod (thick loin, good gelatin)
• 1 leek (white part only)
• 200 g potato (floury variety: Kennebec or Monalisa)
• 100 ml heavy cream 35% fat
• 80 ml extra virgin olive oil (mild, Arbequina)
• 1 clove garlic
• White pepper

For the confit liver (filling)

• 150 g cod liver (canned or fresh)
• 100 ml smoked olive oil (or regular oil + 1 tsp smoked salt)
• 1 sprig thyme
• 1 bay leaf

For the codium pil-pil

• Cod skins (from the loin, reserved)
• 150 ml mild olive oil
• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 dried chili pepper
• 10 g fresh codium (or 3 g rehydrated dried codium)
• 50 ml cod cooking broth

For plating

• Fresh samphire (a handful)
• Sea fennel (a few sprigs)
• Edible flowers (pansies, borage flowers or nasturtium)
• Maldon sea salt flakes
• Extra virgin olive oil to finish

Step 1: The brandada (burrata base)

This is not a conventional brandada. We need a mixture with more body than the classic, capable of wrapping itself without breaking. Potato and cream are essential here.

Prepare the bases (20 minutes)

1. Boil the potato whole with skin in salted water for 20-25 minutes until tender. Peel hot and pass through a potato ricer (never a food processor: it creates sticky starch).
2. Boil the leek in the same water for 8-10 minutes. Drain and blend until fine.
3. Confit the cod: place the loins in a saucepan with oil at 65 °C for 12-15 minutes. Reserve the oil. Remove skins (for the pil-pil) and bones. Flake finely with a fork.

Emulsify the brandada (10 minutes)

1. In a saucepan over medium-low heat, place the potato purée and blended leek. Mix well.
2. Add the flaked cod and work with a wooden spatula.
3. Incorporate the hot cream in three batches, mixing vigorously between each.
4. Add the strained confit oil little by little, as if making mayonnaise, stirring constantly.
5. Adjust white pepper. Salt is usually not needed (the cod is already salty).
6. The result should be a compact but moldable mixture, like soft modeling clay. If it's too liquid, cook for 2-3 more minutes over low heat to evaporate moisture.

Critical point: the brandada must be able to hold its shape as a bowl when cooled. Try taking a spoonful and shaping it with lightly oiled hands. If it holds, it's ready. If it sags, it needs more time on the heat.

Step 2: Cod liver confit in smoked oil

Cod liver is the hidden gem of cod. In Nordic countries, it is a delicacy; here it goes unnoticed. It has a buttery texture and an intense sea flavor that combines perfectly with the smokiness.

Preparation (15 minutes + 2 hours resting)

1. If using canned liver: drain it from its original oil. If using fresh: carefully clean membranes and veins.
2. Place the liver in a small saucepan. Cover with smoked oil, add thyme and bay leaf.
3. Bring to 60 °C and maintain that temperature for 10 minutes. Do not exceed 65 °C or the liver will granulate.
4. Remove from heat and let cool in the oil in the refrigerator for at least 2 hours (ideally: overnight).
5. Before using, take out of the refrigerator 30 minutes in advance. Gently flake with a fork: it should be in creamy strands, not purée.

The resulting smoked oil is liquid gold. Reserve it for dressing at the end.

Step 3: Codium pil-pil with cod skins

Classic pil-pil uses the gelatin from cod to emulsify oil and broth. Here we add codium, a green seaweed that has an elegant iodized flavor (without the aggressiveness of nori or kombu seaweed) and an intense green color that contrasts with the white of the burrata.

Preparation (25 minutes)

1. Extract gelatin from the skins: place the cod skins in a pan with cold oil. Bring to 60-70 °C over very low heat and maintain for 10-12 minutes, stirring occasionally. The skins will release gelatin into the oil. Remove the skins.
2. Infuse the garlic: slice the garlic and gently brown it in the oil with gelatin. Add the chili in pieces. Remove when the garlic is light golden.
3. Emulsify: off the heat, add the cod cooking broth little by little while swirling the pan in circles. The gelatin in the oil will bind with the broth, creating the pil-pil sauce.
4. Add the codium: blend the fresh codium with 2 tablespoons of the pil-pil sauce and add it to the mixture. Mix well. The sauce will be pale green with darker flecks.
5. Strain if you want a smooth sauce or leave it rustic with visible pieces of seaweed.

Note on codium: if you can't find fresh codium, dried works well. Rehydrate it in cold water for 15 minutes beforehand. You can also substitute it with sea lettuce, although the flavor profile changes slightly.

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Step 4: Assembling the burrata

This is the moment of truth. You need to work with the brandada warm (not cold, as it will crack; not hot, as it won't hold its shape). The ideal temperature is 35-40 °C.

Step-by-step assembly

1. Oil your hands generously with olive oil.
2. Take a portion of brandada (about 120 g per person) and flatten it in your palm to form a disk about 12 cm in diameter and half a centimeter thick.
3. Place the filling: put 2-3 tablespoons of shredded cod liver in the center of the disk.
4. Close the burrata: lift the edges of the disk upwards, pinching to seal. Turn the sphere so the seam is at the bottom. Gently mold with oiled hands until a rounded shape is achieved.
5. Repeat with the remaining portions.
6. Rest for 10 minutes in the refrigerator on an oiled plate. This helps the shape set without the brandada hardening too much.

Pro tip: if the brandada cracks when closing, lightly warm your hands under hot water and rework the sphere. Temperature is key to plasticity.

Step 5: Plating and garnishes

Plating is what turns this dish into a restaurant-quality meal. The nuances of flavor and texture come from the garnishes.

Plating components

1. Plate base: pour 3-4 tablespoons of the warm codium pil-pil, forming a green mirror in the center of the deep plate.
2. Place the burrata in the center. Make a cross cut on top with a sharp knife. The burrata will open slightly and the liver will peek out.
3. Samphire: blanch for 30 seconds in boiling water, then chill in ice water. Place a few stalks around the burrata. They provide a salty crunch.
4. Sea fennel: a few fresh leaves (unblanched) on top of the burrata. Subtle anise aroma.
5. Edible flowers: 2-3 small flowers distributed. They are not just empty decoration: pansies have a herbaceous note, borage tastes like cucumber, and nasturtium has a delicate spiciness.
6. Finish with a drizzle of smoked oil (from the confit liver), a few Maldon salt flakes, and a touch of freshly ground black pepper.

Thermomix version

The Thermomix greatly simplifies the brandada and allows for precise temperature control for confiting. Here are the adaptations.

Brandada in Thermomix

1. Cook the potato and leek: chop and place in the bowl with 500 ml of water. Set for 20 min / 100 °C / speed 1. Drain with the basket.
2. Blend the base: return potato and leek to the bowl. Set for 15 sec / speed 5-7 until a fine purée is obtained.
3. Add the flaked cod (confit separately or poached). Set for 10 sec / speed 3 with reverse blade to avoid over-blending.
4. Emulsify: with the Thermomix at speed 3-4, add the hot cream and oil through the lid opening in a continuous stream for 1-2 minutes.
5. Adjust consistency: if it is liquid, set for 3 min / 90 °C / speed 2 to evaporate.

Confit liver in Thermomix

1. Place liver, smoked oil, thyme, and bay leaf in the bowl.
2. Set for 10 min / 60 °C / speed 1.
3. Pour into a container and let cool in the refrigerator.

Codium pil-pil in Thermomix

1. Skins + oil in the bowl: 12 min / 65 °C / speed 1. Remove skins with a spatula.
2. Sliced garlic + chili: 5 min / varoma / speed 1. Remove.
3. With butterfly whisk in place, speed 3, add broth through the lid opening little by little for 2 minutes.
4. Add blended codium. 10 sec / speed 4.

Professional tips

• Prepare components separately the day before: brandada, confit liver, and pil-pil can be made the day before. Only the burrata assembly and plating should be done at the moment of serving.
• The wrapper/filling ratio is 3:1: for every 120 g of brandada, about 40 g of liver. More filling and the burrata breaks; less and it loses the surprise effect.
• Serving temperature: the burrata should be warm (30-35 °C). Cold, it loses creaminess and the pil-pil separates. Hot, and the shape will melt.
• If you can't find cod liver: you can substitute it with a mixture of extra fine shredded cod with a generous splash of smoked oil and a few drops of soy sauce. It's not the same, but the concept works.
• Dairy-free alternative: substitute heavy cream with thick coconut milk. The flavor changes slightly but the texture remains.

Wine pairing

A dish of this complexity needs a wine that complements without competing.

• First choice: Albariño aged on lees (Rías Baixas). The wine's salinity connects with the samphire and codium.
• Champagne Blanc de Blancs: the acidity and bubbles cut through the richness of the brandada. Works especially well if the dish is an appetizer for a dinner.
• Txakoli: if you prefer something lighter and more acidic. The slight carbonation cleanses the palate between bites.
• Beer: a Belgian witbier (with coriander and orange) works surprisingly well with the smoky nuances of the liver.

Frequently asked questions