The concept: sea and forest on a plate

The concept: sea and forest on a plate

Fusion cuisine has a bad reputation when done without discernment. But when you connect ingredients that share a similar molecular profile, fusion ceases to be a whim and becomes logical. And that's exactly what happens with cod and mushrooms.

Both cod and mushrooms are rich in glutamic acid, the amino acid responsible for the umami flavor. Salted and desalted cod has more free glutamate than fresh (the salting process breaks down proteins and releases amino acids). Shiitake, porcini, and similar mushrooms are among the foods with the most umami in the plant world. When you combine them, they don't just add up: they multiply.

The third element in this equation is miso, which is nothing more than fermented soy: another umami bomb. The Thai miso soup acts as a liquid medium that connects all the components, also providing the freshness of ginger, lime, and lemongrass.

The result is a dish that tastes deeply of something you can't immediately identify, and that's precisely what makes it addictive.

Full ingredients (serves 4)

Cod confit

• 4 desalted cod loins (150-180 g each, with skin)
• 400 ml extra virgin olive oil (mild)
• 2 whole garlic cloves (unpeeled, crushed)
• 1 sprig of rosemary
• Black peppercorns (5-6 grains)

Sautéed shiitake

• 200 g fresh shiitake mushrooms
• 2 tablespoons soy sauce
• 1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
• 1 tablespoon mirin (or 1 teaspoon honey + a splash of rice vinegar)
• 1 clove garlic, minced

Thai miso soup

• 2 tablespoons white miso paste (shiro miso)
• 400 ml coconut milk
• 200 ml fish stock (or cod skin stock)
• 2 stalks lemongrass, crushed
• 3 slices galangal or fresh ginger
• 2 kaffir lime leaves (or lime zest)
• 1 tablespoon fish sauce (nam pla)
• Juice of 1 lime
• 1 fresh chili (optional)

Crispy porcini omelet

• 100 g fresh porcini mushrooms (or rehydrated dried)
• 2 eggs
• 3 tablespoons cornstarch (fine corn flour)
• 2 tablespoons cold water
• Salt and pepper
• Oil for frying

Cod confit at 50 °C: the game-changing technique

Confit cod is not frying it in oil. It's submerging it in an oil bath at a controlled temperature, well below conventional cooking, for just enough time for the proteins to gently coagulate without expelling moisture. The result is cod that flakes into pearly layers, juicier than any other method can achieve.

Why 50 °C and not 65 °C

Most confit recipes work at 60-65 °C. We go down to 50 °C for a specific reason: at that temperature, myosin (the main protein in cod muscle) denatures, but actin does not. The result is a mi-cuit cooking point where the cod has an almost raw texture in the center but is perfectly cooked. It's the same logic as tataki, but applied to confit.

Important: this technique requires impeccably fresh, desalted cod. If you have doubts about freshness, increase to 62-65 °C.

Step-by-step

1. Pat the cod loins dry with paper towels. The skin must be completely dry.
2. Prepare the aromatic oil: heat the olive oil with crushed garlic, rosemary, and pepper until it reaches 55 °C. Remove from heat and let it cool to 50 °C.
3. Submerge the loins in the oil. The oil should completely cover the cod.
4. Maintain at 50 °C for 18-22 minutes. Use a kitchen thermometer. If the temperature rises, remove from heat for a few seconds. If it drops below 48 °C, gently reheat.
5. Remove the loins and let them rest for 2 minutes on paper towels.

If you have a sous vide machine, it's easier: vacuum seal the loins with a couple of tablespoons of oil and garlic, and cook at 50 °C for 20 minutes.

Shiitake: texture and umami

Shiitake provides three things: chewiness (contrast with the softness of the cod), umami (multiplies that of the cod), and an earthy note that justifies the dish's name "from the earth."

Preparation (8 minutes)

1. Clean the shiitake with a damp cloth (never submerge them in water, they absorb like sponges). Remove the stems (reserve them for the soup).
2. Cut into quarters if large, in half if medium.
3. Heat a very hot pan with sesame oil. Place the shiitake in a single layer without moving for 2 minutes. They should brown on the bottom.
4. Flip and add minced garlic. Sauté for 1 more minute.
5. Deglaze with soy sauce and mirin. Cook for 1 minute until the liquid evaporates and the mushrooms are glazed and shiny.

Key: do not constantly move the mushrooms. They need continuous contact with the pan to caramelize. If you stir them, they sweat instead of browning.

Thai miso soup

This soup is a variation of tom kha (Thai coconut soup) where we replace some of the condiments with miso. White miso is the mildest and best connects with cod without overpowering it.

Preparation (15 minutes)

1. Infuse the aromatics: in a saucepan, heat the coconut milk with the fish stock, crushed lemongrass, galangal/ginger, lime leaves, and chili. Bring to a gentle boil and cook for 8-10 minutes over low heat. The liquid should smell intensely aromatic.
2. Strain: remove all solid aromatics with a strainer.
3. Dissolve the miso: put 2 tablespoons of miso in a small bowl. Add a ladleful of the hot broth and mix until completely dissolved. Return to the saucepan. Never boil miso: it destroys probiotics and makes it bitter.
4. Add the shiitake stems (thinly sliced) if you want more body.
5. Finish with fish sauce and lime juice. Taste and adjust: it should be creamy, aromatic, with a balanced citrusy and salty note.

thick-cut desalted cod

Available at Bacalalo.com with refrigerated delivery in 24-48h

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Crispy porcini omelet (cornstarch technique)

This is not a Spanish omelet. It's a thin, crispy omelet, almost like a golden crêpe that breaks into irregular fragments on the plate. Cornstarch is what gives it this texture: when fried in a thin layer, it creates a starch network that crystallizes into a crispy sheet.

Preparation (10 minutes)

1. Sauté the porcini: cut into small cubes (5 mm) and sauté in hot oil with salt for 3-4 minutes. Drain any liquid released.
2. Prepare the batter: beat the eggs with the cornstarch and cold water until smooth. Add the sautéed porcini, salt, and pepper.
3. Fry in thin sheets: in a hot non-stick pan with a generous layer of oil, pour a thin portion of the mixture (like a crêpe). Cook for 2 minutes per side until golden and crispy.
4. Drain on paper towels.
5. Break into irregular fragments just before plating. Do not cut them: irregularity is part of the aesthetic.

Trick: for extra crispiness, add an extra tablespoon of cornstarch. For more flavor, substitute water with reduced mushroom broth.

Assembly and plating

Use a wide, deep plate (like a pasta bowl). The dish needs depth for the soup.

1. Base: pour the warm Thai miso soup until it covers one-third of the plate (don't drown the other components).
2. Cod: place the confit loin in the center, skin side up. If the skin is very dry, you can briefly torch it to crisp it before placing (5-10 seconds, without burning).
3. Shiitake: distribute the glazed shiitake quarters around the cod.
4. Porcini omelet: place 3-4 crispy fragments on top of the cod and resting on the edge, creating height.
5. Finish: a drizzle of toasted sesame oil, a few fresh cilantro leaves (if you like), and toasted black sesame seeds.

Variations and adaptations

• No coconut milk: substitute with concentrated fish stock and a splash of cream. You lose the Thai profile but gain a cleaner flavor.
• With truffle: a few thin slices of black truffle on the cod just before serving transforms this into a spectacular winter seasonal dish.
• Partially vegan: substitute cod with a block of firm tofu confit in oil with kombu seaweed (for the sea flavor). The other components remain.
• With rice: a base of basmati rice cooked in reduced miso soup makes the dish more substantial and easier to prepare.
• Quick version: buy quality instant miso soup, use sautéed canned mushrooms, and confit the cod at 65 °C for only 12 minutes. You lose some finesse but maintain the idea.

Professional tips

• Oil temperature: invest in a kitchen thermometer. The difference between 50 °C and 60 °C in cod confit is the difference between pearly and dry.
• White miso, not red: red miso (aka miso) is too potent and will make the soup bitter. White miso (shiro miso) has just the right sweetness.
• Do not sauté mushrooms with wet hands: extra moisture generates steam and prevents mushrooms from browning. Dry them, dry the pan, and use high heat.
• The omelet can be prepared 2 hours in advance: keep it whole on a wire rack. Break into fragments just before serving to maintain crispiness.

Pairing

• Junmai sake: the perfect choice. Umami with umami. A mild sake served slightly chilled connects each component.
• Dry Riesling (Alsace or Germany): the acidity and mineral notes cut through the creaminess of the coconut milk.
• Godello (Valdeorras): if you prefer Spanish wine, Godello has the structure and minerality for this dish.
• Japanese lager beer: a cold Asahi or Sapporo. Simple, clean, works well.

Frequently asked questions