The concept: black and white on the plate

The Concept: Black and White on the Plate

The name "black and white" is not arbitrary. It is a declaration of visual and gastronomic intent. The white is provided by the cod: its pearly flesh, the creamy and pale pil-pil emulsion. The black comes from the sautéed porcini mushrooms — dark, meaty, with a wet forest aroma — and the grated black truffle that crowns the dish like a final perfume.

This recipe was born in the kitchens of Basque haute cuisine, where the combination of cod and wild mushrooms has a long tradition. Chefs like Martín Berasategui and Pedro Subijana have explored this fusion, demonstrating that cod does not need seafood ingredients to shine: forest products complement it masterfully.

The contrast is not just visual. The cod provides marine salinity, flaky texture, and natural gelatin. The porcini mushrooms add earthy umami, meaty texture, and deep flavor. The truffle elevates everything with its penetrating aroma, which is at once mineral, musky, and slightly fatty. Together, they create a dish that stimulates all the senses.

Ingredients (4 servings)

For the cod

• 4 desalted cod loins, about 180-200g each, thick and with skin
• 200 ml mild extra virgin olive oil (Arbequina or mild Picual)
• 4 cloves garlic, sliced
• 1 dried chili (optional)

For the porcini and truffle

• 400 g fresh porcini mushrooms (Boletus edulis) (or 80 g rehydrated dried porcini)
• 2 winter black truffles (Tuber melanosporum), about 30-40g in total
• 2 tablespoons black truffle oil
• 1 small red onion, finely chopped
• 2 cloves garlic, minced
• 30 g butter
• Fresh parsley, chopped
• Salt and black pepper

Truffle and Porcini: Kings of the Forest

Understanding these ingredients is key for the dish to work.

Porcini mushrooms (Boletus edulis) — also called ceps or king boletes — are probably the most prized mushrooms in the world, along with truffles. Their texture is meaty, firm, almost like steak. Their flavor is intensely umami: earthy, nutty, with a sweet undertone. Fresh ones are available in autumn (September-November) and in spring in some areas. Out of season, dried porcini are an excellent alternative: they concentrate the flavor and only need 30 minutes of soaking in warm water. That filtered soaking water is liquid gold for sauces.

Black truffle (Tuber melanosporum) is the diamond of gastronomy. Its aroma is unmistakable: earthy, musky, with notes of garlic, honey, and cocoa. Winter truffle (December-March) is the most intense and the most expensive, with prices ranging from €800 to €2,000/kg. For this recipe, you need a small amount — 30-40g is enough — because truffle is not a main ingredient but a flavor enhancer. It is grated at the last moment, never cooked (heat destroys its volatile aromatic compounds).

If fresh truffle is out of budget, good quality truffle oil (made with real truffle, not synthetic 2,4-dithiapentane flavoring) is a worthy alternative. Read the label: it should say "olive oil with black truffle," not "truffle aroma."

The Pil-Pil Technique for this Recipe

Pil-pil is the quintessential Basque technique for cod. It involves confiting cod at a low temperature in olive oil and then emulsifying that oil with the fish's natural gelatin, creating a creamy sauce without adding any thickeners. It is the most elegant sauce in Spanish cuisine.

For pil-pil to work, you need:

1. Cod with skin: the skin is rich in collagen which, when heated, turns into gelatin. Without skin, the emulsion will not form.
2. Low temperature: between 60 and 70 °C. If the oil smokes or bubbles, it is too hot. The cod should confit slowly, never fry.
3. Circular motion: once the cod is removed, the oil is moved in constant circles in the casserole (preferably earthenware) until it emulsifies. Some recipes move the casserole; others use a sieve to stir. Patience is key.

For more details on the pil-pil technique, consult our complete guide to cod pil-pil.

Pil-pil starts with the cod.

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Complete Step-by-Step Preparation

Step 1: Prepare the porcini mushrooms (15 minutes)

If using fresh porcini, clean them with a damp cloth or a soft brush. Never submerge them in water: they absorb liquid like sponges and lose texture. Cut the caps into 5-6 mm thick slices. If the stems are firm, cut them into cubes.

In a large skillet over high heat, warm the butter with a tablespoon of olive oil. When the butter foams, add the porcini in a single layer (do this in batches if necessary). Do not move them for 2 minutes: they need to sear and brown. Flip them over and brown for another 2 minutes. Add the minced garlic and red onion, reduce the heat to medium, and cook for 3-4 more minutes until the onion is translucent. Season with salt, pepper, and parsley. Set aside.

Step 2: Confit the cod and make the pil-pil (20 minutes)

In an earthenware casserole (if possible) or a heavy-bottomed pan, heat the 200 ml of olive oil over very low heat. Add the sliced garlic and, if desired, the chili. When the garlic begins to lightly brown, remove and set aside (we will use it for garnish).

Place the cod loins in the oil skin-side up. The oil should be at about 60-65 °C: if you use a thermometer, perfect; otherwise, the oil should shimmer slightly but not bubble. Confit for 8-10 minutes on the first side. You will see the flesh turn opaque and begin to release a white gelatin. Flip it over (skin-side down) and confit for 4-5 more minutes.

Carefully remove the loins and set them aside on a warm plate, covered with aluminum foil. Now for the emulsion: with the casserole off the heat (or on minimum heat), start moving the oil in constant circles. You can use a fine mesh sieve or the casserole itself with a back-and-forth motion. In 3-5 minutes, the oil will begin to thicken and whiten, forming the pil-pil sauce. If it doesn't emulsify, add a teaspoon of the gelatinous juice released by the cod on the plate and continue stirring.

Step 3: Assemble the dish (5 minutes)

Briefly reheat the porcini mushrooms in their pan. Heat the cod loins for 1 minute in the pil-pil sauce (without boiling). Now, grate the fresh black truffle with a fine grater or truffle slicer.

Restaurant-Style Plating

The plating of this dish is part of the experience. Use white or dark plates to maximize contrast:

1. Place a base of pil-pil sauce in the center of the plate with a spoon, forming a generous pool.
2. Place the cod loin in the center, skin-side up.
3. Distribute the sautéed porcini mushrooms around and partially over the cod.
4. Grate the black truffle generously on top — the thin slices should fall like flakes.
5. Finish with a drizzle of truffle oil, the golden sliced garlic, and a sprig of fresh parsley.

The aroma of freshly grated truffle, combined with the warm pil-pil and porcini, creates a sensory experience that justifies every minute of preparation.

Variations and Adaptations

With dried porcini mushrooms

Rehydrate 80g of dried porcini mushrooms in 300ml of warm water for 30 minutes. Drain them and filter the soaking water through a sieve lined with kitchen paper. Use this water to enrich the sauce: add 2-3 tablespoons to the pil-pil while emulsifying. Rehydrated porcini have a more concentrated flavor than fresh ones, so you need less quantity.

Without fresh truffle

Replace fresh truffle with 2 generous tablespoons of quality truffle oil (real truffle, not synthetic) and a teaspoon of black truffle paste. The result will not be identical, but it will maintain the essence of the dish for a fraction of the cost.

With mixed mushrooms

If you can't find porcini, combine seasonal mushrooms: chanterelles (girolles), black trumpets, and king oyster mushrooms. Each adds a different nuance, and the overall effect is extraordinary. Avoid common button mushrooms, which have too much water and too little flavor for this dish.

Wine Pairing

A dish of this caliber deserves a wine of equal standing:

• Aged white wine: a barrel-fermented Rioja white (Viura + Malvasía) or a white Burgundy (Chardonnay). The wood aging complements the earthy notes of the truffle and porcini.
• Champagne Blanc de Blancs: the crisp acidity and fine bubbles cleanse the palate between bites of the unctuous pil-pil.
• Godello from Valdeorras: mineral, fresh, with notes of white fruit and a hint of smokiness that harmonizes with the mushrooms.

Frequently Asked Questions