Summary: Barcelona has a unique cod-selling tradition in Spain. We compare two key players: Bacalalo, in Mercat del Ninot since 1990 with a national online store, and Bacallà Rafols, in El Born with decades of neighborhood tradition. We analyze products, variety of cuts, ideal recipes for each, online presence, and everything you need to choose the one that best suits you.
Table of Contents
- Barcelona, capital of cod shops
- El Born and El Ninot: two epicenters of cod
- Bacalalo: from Mercat del Ninot to the online world
- Exclusive Bacalalo products
- Bacallà Rafols: tradition from El Born
- Comparison: product and service
- What to buy from each, depending on your recipe
- The key difference: online presence
- What to look for in a good cod shop
- When to visit each
- Frequently asked questions
Barcelona, capital of cod shops
Few cities in Europe can boast of having specialized cod shops like those in Barcelona. While in other Spanish cities, cod is bought in general fish markets, in Barcelona there are shops that have been dedicated exclusively to salted, desalted cod, and its derivatives for decades.
This tradition has roots in Catalan maritime trade and the importance of cod in local gastronomy: bunyols de bacallà, esqueixada, brandada, bacallà a la llauna. These dishes require an excellent product, and Barcelona's cod shops have been the guarantors of that quality for generations.
Barcelona's cod shops are not just stores: they are knowledge centers where the "bacallaner" (cod seller) selects the pieces, controls the salt level, advises on the cut according to the recipe, and transmits know-how passed down from parents to children. In few professions is so much specialization concentrated on a single product. And this cod culture has made Barcelona the city with the highest density of cod shops on the entire Iberian Peninsula.
Among the most recognized are Bacalalo (Mercat del Ninot) and Bacallà Rafols (Born neighborhood). Both share a passion for cod but have evolved in different ways.
El Born and El Ninot: two epicenters of cod
To understand the comparison between Bacalalo and Bacallà Rafols, it is worth locating their neighborhoods on Barcelona's gastronomic map. The Born neighborhood and the Eixample (where Mercat del Ninot is located) represent two different ways of experiencing the city, and this is reflected in their cod shops.
El Born is one of Barcelona's oldest neighborhoods, with narrow streets, hidden squares, and a commercial tradition dating back to the Middle Ages. In this environment, specialized food stores are part of the landscape: "colomaires" (egg shops), herbalists, butchers, and, of course, "bacallaners." Rafols has been part of this fabric for decades, serving the residents of the old town with the naturalness of someone who has lived in the neighborhood all their life.
Mercat del Ninot, on the other hand, is one of the large municipal markets in the Eixample, renovated and modernized but without losing its essence. It is a market visited by thousands of Barcelonans who work or live in the central area of the city. Bacalalo has grown in this vibrant market context, with a constant flow of customers and the need to adapt to an audience that values both tradition and convenience.
Both environments have shaped the personality of each cod shop. While Rafols cultivates neighborhood closeness, Bacalalo has used Ninot's centrality as a springboard for a broader model that includes online sales.
Bacalalo: from Mercat del Ninot to the online world
Bacalalo has been in the Mercat del Ninot since 1990. It is one of Barcelona's oldest cod shops, with three generations of knowledge in the selection, preservation, and desalting of cod.
What distinguishes Bacalalo from other cod shops is its evolution towards e-commerce. Without abandoning its market stall, it has built an online store that allows customers to buy premium cod, Cantabrian anchovies, caviar, and gourmet preserves with nationwide shipping in 24-48 hours.
The professional desalting process offered by Bacalalo deserves special mention. Desalting cod at home is a process that requires between 24 and 48 hours of planning, water changes, and some knowledge to achieve the perfect salt level. Bacalalo offers professionally desalted cod, ready to cook instantly, which solves the main barrier many home cooks encounter when working with salted cod.
In addition, Bacalalo has created an educational blog with over 150 articles on recipes, desalting techniques, buying guides, and cod culture, something unique among Barcelona's cod shops. If you are looking for desalted cod recipes or want to learn how to prepare cocochas al pil pil, you will find step-by-step guides on their website.
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Exclusive Bacalalo products
Bacalalo's online catalog goes far beyond traditional salted cod. The evolution towards a premium seafood product platform has allowed it to offer items that are difficult to find in a conventional cod shop.
For cod, Bacalalo offers the most complete range on the market:
- Salted cod from Iceland and Norway in over 8 different cuts: extra loins, standard loins, flakes, shredded, thick loin, and thin loin.
- Professionally desalted cod ready to cook: the most convenient option for those who don't want to wait 48 hours for desalting.
- Cod cheeks, the jewel of Gadus morhua, essential for pil pil.
- Cod tripe, snout, and skins: lesser-known cuts with enormous culinary potential in stews and traditional preparations.
Beyond cod, the catalog includes:
- Selected Cantabrian anchovies, from tasting formats to gift tins.
- Premium caviar of different varieties: Beluga, Osetra, and national options.
- Artisanal gourmet preserves of fish and seafood.
- Smoked salmon, roe, and other selected seafood products.
This wide catalog makes Bacalalo a reference store not only for everyday cod but also for gourmet gifts, celebrations, and recipes that require special ingredients difficult to find in conventional stores.
Bacallà Rafols: tradition from El Born
Bacallà Rafols is one of the historic cod shops in the Born neighborhood, an area of Barcelona with a deep commercial and gastronomic tradition. Its location, between the markets and guild streets of the old town, makes it a reference point for neighborhood residents and lovers of traditional Catalan cuisine.
Rafols maintains the classic neighborhood cod shop model: personal service, selected products, generational knowledge passed down from parents to children. It's the kind of store where the shopkeeper knows your name, knows what recipe you're going to make, and advises you on the exact cut.
Its catalog focuses on salted cod in different cuts and, depending on the season, may also offer other complementary salted and preserved products. Shopping at Rafols is immersing oneself in the authentic experience of Barcelona's neighborhood commerce: a small space where everything smells of salt, where pieces of cod are displayed with the pride of someone who knows they are working with a good product.
Rafols' value lies not only in the product but also in the customer relationship. If you tell them you want to prepare an esqueixada for six people, the bacallaner will calculate the amount, recommend a specific cod, and probably give you advice you won't find in any written recipe. This human interaction is the main asset of neighborhood cod shops like Rafols.
Comparison: product and service
| Aspect | Bacalalo (Ninot) | Bacallà Rafols (Born) |
|---|---|---|
| Location | Mercat del Ninot (Eixample) | Born neighborhood (Ciutat Vella) |
| Years of tradition | Since 1990 (35+ years) | Several decades of history |
| Online store | Yes, with national shipping 24-48h | Mainly physical store |
| Variety of cod cuts | 8+ (loins, flakes, cheeks, tripe, snout, skins, shredded) | Main cuts of salted cod |
| Desalted cod | Yes, professionally desalted | Check in store |
| Products beyond cod | Anchovies, caviar, gourmet preserves, smoked salmon | Focused on cod and salted fish |
| Educational content | Blog with 150+ articles, step-by-step recipes | In-store personalized advice |
| National shipping | Yes, throughout the peninsula in 24-48h | Not available online |
| Shopping hours | Physical store + online 24/7 | Store business hours |
What to buy from each, depending on your recipe
One of the most practical criteria for choosing a cod shop is the recipe you are going to prepare. Not all preparations need the same cut, and each cod shop has its strengths in this regard. Here's a quick guide to help you find what you need.
| Recipe | Necessary cut | Bacalalo | Rafols |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cod al pil pil | Thick loins with skin + cheeks | Available (loins + cheeks online) | Loins available, cheeks depending on season |
| Bacallà a la llauna | Medium loins, with or without skin | Available in various thicknesses | Available |
| Esqueixada | Shredded desalted cod | Professional desalting + shredded | Salted cod for shredding at home |
| Bunyols de bacallà | Flakes or shredded | Flakes and shredded available | Flakes available |
| Brandada | Flakes or loins for shredding | Various flake options | Flakes or loins |
| Cod cheeks al pil pil | Cod cheeks | Available all year round | Check availability |
| Cod tripe in sauce | Tripe (cod guts) | Available | Specialized product, check |
| Baked cod | Thick loins with skin | Available with certified origin | Available |
As you can see, for the most classic recipes (llauna, bunyols, brandada) both cod shops will serve you perfectly. The difference is noticeable in special cuts (cheeks, tripe, snout, skins) and in desalted cod ready to cook, where Bacalalo has a wider and permanent offer. If your recipe requires one of these cuts, you can consult them directly in the cheeks section or in the complete catalog of salted cod.
The key difference: online presence
The biggest difference between both cod shops in 2026 is their digital presence. While Bacalalo has invested in a complete online store with detailed product sheets, educational content, and national shipping logistics, Rafols maintains a more traditional model focused on sales in its physical store.
This has practical implications:
- If you live in Barcelona and near El Born, Rafols is a convenient option to buy cod with personal attention. You can go, see the product, get advice, and take it with you.
- If you live anywhere else in Spain or prefer the convenience of online shopping, Bacalalo is the option that allows you to access premium cod without physically going to the market.
- If you live in Barcelona but want cheeks, caviar, or premium anchovies, Bacalalo has a wider catalog that goes beyond pure cod.
- If you cook off-hours, Bacalalo's online store is available 24 hours a day. You can place your order on a Sunday night and receive it in 24-48 hours.
Bacalalo's online store also offers the advantage of consulting detailed information before buying: exact origin of each product, weights, formats, preparation tips, and dozens of recipes on the blog. For those cooking cod for the first time, having access to a complete guide on how to properly desalt cod before buying is a significant added value.
What to look for in a good cod shop
Whether you choose Bacalalo or Rafols, or any other cod shop in Barcelona, there are objective criteria that will help you assess the quality of a cod store. These are the factors that distinguish a good cod shop from a mediocre one:
- Origin of the cod: The best cod shops work with cod from Iceland, Norway, or the Faroe Islands. The origin determines the texture, flavor, and final quality of the product. Be suspicious of anyone who cannot tell you where their cod comes from.
- Variety of cuts: A real bacallaner doesn't just sell loins. They offer flakes, shredded, cheeks, tripe, and other cuts that allow you to prepare any recipe. More variety means greater specialization.
- Salt level: The salting process must be appropriate: not too much salt that ruins the product, nor too little that compromises preservation. A good bacallaner controls this point.
- Advice: The bacallaner should know how to recommend the exact cut according to your recipe, explain desalting times, and give you preparation tricks. This knowledge is what justifies buying from a specialized store.
- Preservation: Salted cod needs specific temperature and humidity conditions. Pay attention to how it is displayed: the pieces should look clean, well-preserved, and fresh.
- Product rotation: A good cod shop has high rotation, meaning the product hasn't been on the counter for weeks. Ask when the last batch arrived.
Both Bacalalo and Rafols meet these criteria, each in its own way. The difference lies in how you access that quality: in person or with the convenience of home delivery.
When to visit each
Go to Bacallà Rafols if...
- You live near El Born and value in-person shopping
- You like the personal touch of a neighborhood store
- You are looking for basic salted cod (loins, flakes) for daily use
- You enjoy the ritual of going to the market and choosing the product in person
- You prefer the bacallaner to cut the piece to measure for your recipe
Shop at Bacalalo if...
- You need home delivery (Barcelona or anywhere in Spain)
- You are looking for specific cuts: cheeks, tripe, snout, or skins
- You want professionally desalted cod ready to cook
- In addition to cod, you need anchovies, caviar, or gourmet preserves
- You value being able to get information before buying with detailed guides and recipes
- You want to prepare a recipe like cod al pil pil and need the exact cuts
Both options are respectable and have their place. The important thing is to choose the one that best suits your situation: if you're looking for convenience and online variety, Bacalalo; if you're looking for neighborhood tradition and in-person shopping in El Born, Rafols.
Frequently asked questions
Does Bacallà Rafols have an online store?
Rafols is primarily a physical store in the Born neighborhood. Its online presence is limited, and it does not have an e-commerce platform for placing orders with shipping. If you need to buy cod online with home delivery, Bacalalo offers a complete online store with shipping throughout Spain in 24-48 hours and detailed product sheets.
Which of the two has better cod?
Both work with proven quality cod. The main difference is not in the basic quality of the product, but in the variety of the offer. Bacalalo offers more cuts (cheeks, tripe, snout, skins) and the option of professional desalted cod. Rafols focuses on traditional cuts with very personalized in-store service.
Can I buy cod cheeks at Rafols?
The availability of special cuts like cod cheeks can vary depending on the store and the season. Cod cheeks are a highly prized item, and not all establishments offer them permanently. At Bacalalo, cod cheeks are available all year round, both in-store and online, ensuring you can prepare them whenever you want.
Where are they located exactly?
Bacalalo is in Mercat del Ninot, in Barcelona's Eixample (Mallorca street 133), a central area well-connected by metro and bus. Bacallà Rafols is in the Born neighborhood, in the city's old town, an area with historical charm and a rich gastronomic offer. Both are accessible by public transport.
Which one is cheaper?
The prices of both are typical of a specialized cod shop, higher than supermarket prices but with much higher quality. The price difference between the two is minimal and should not be the deciding factor. What is relevant is the product variety, the availability of special cuts, and the possibility of buying online with home delivery.
Are there other cod shops in Barcelona?
Yes, Barcelona has several historic cod shops: Masclans (Gracia/Eixample area), Tarrès, and others distributed among municipal markets and commercial streets of the city. It is a density of cod shops unique in Spain. You can consult our complete guide to the best cod shops in Barcelona to see them all.
Which cod shop is best for preparing a pil pil?
For a perfect cod al pil pil, you need thick loins with skin and, if you want the complete version, also cod cheeks. Bacalalo offers both cuts permanently with certified Iceland/Norway origin, even in a desalted format ready to cook. At Rafols, you can find good loins, but cod cheeks may not always be available.
Is desalted cod worth buying?
Professionally desalted cod is ideal if you don't want to wait 24-48 hours for desalting at home or if you don't have experience with the process. Properly desalting cod requires several water changes and control of the salt level. Bacalalo's professional desalting guarantees an optimal salt level and allows you to cook the cod instantly, without prior planning.
Does Bacalalo ship to the Balearic and Canary Islands?
Bacalalo ships throughout the Spanish peninsula with delivery in 24-48 hours. For shipments to the Balearic and Canary Islands, it is advisable to consult directly with the store to confirm availability and delivery times, as the logistics of fresh and refrigerated products to the islands have specific characteristics. In any case, peninsular coverage is complete.
What is the difference between cod from Iceland and Norway?
Cod from Iceland tends to have a firmer texture and a more intense flavor, while cod from Norway is usually somewhat milder with finer flakes. Both origins are of top quality. At Bacalalo, you can check the exact origin of each product before buying, which helps you choose according to the recipe you are going to prepare.
Related guides
- Top 10 cod shops in Barcelona
- Guide to buying cod in Barcelona
- Where to buy quality cod in Barcelona
- How to desalt cod quickly and well at home
- Cod al pil pil: step-by-step Basque recipe
- Desalted cod recipes: quick and easy ideas
- Cod cheeks al pil pil: recipe and what they are
Discover our entire catalog of premium desalted cod and salted cod from Iceland and Norway with shipping throughout Spain at Bacalalo.
