In short: Andoni Luis Aduriz (Mugaritz, Errenteria, 2 Michelin stars since 2009) uses premium Cantabrian anchovies as a technical-conceptual element in his tasting menus. Philosophy: cured product as an expression of the territory.
Table of contents
Who is Andoni Aduriz
Andoni Luis Aduriz Garmendia (San Sebastián, 1971) is the chef and owner of the Mugaritz restaurant in Errenteria (Guipúzcoa), with 2 Michelin stars since 2009 and consistent positions among the TOP 10 of The World's 50 Best Restaurants. A disciple of Ferran Adrià at El Bulli (1999-2000), he opened Mugaritz in 1998 at the age of 27.
Aduriz is a benchmark of "contemporary new Basque cuisine": advanced techniques, conceptual narrative, and absolute respect for local Basque seafood and mountain products.
His philosophy with anchovies
For Aduriz, Cantabrian anchovy is much more than an ingredient: it is "the cured product that best represents the Cantabrian region." He uses it as a structural element in many dishes on the tasting menu, almost always with a technical twist:
- Lacto-fermented anchovy with buttermilk serum
- Anchovy with freeze-dried tomato skin
- Warm anchovy with seaweed broth
- Anchovy with yogurt sphere (El Bulli reverse spherification technique)
Mugaritz signature dishes with anchovies
"Warm anchovy with cured cheese juice": Cantabrian anchovy fillet size 00, heated for 30 seconds at 50°C, on a salty bread-pretzel crisp, with juice extracted from aged Idiazábal cheese.
"Anchovy bite with citrus peel": anchovy rolled with yuzu peel and bergamot zest.
"Anchovy and sour apple tartare": chopped raw anchovy + Granny Smith apple brunoise + arbequina EVOO + smoked Maldon salt.
What you can apply in your kitchen
1. Warm the anchovy. 30 seconds at 50°C changes texture and aroma. It's not cooking; it's aroma release.
2. Combine with citrus. Yuzu or Meyer lemon (not industrial lemon). Provides a freshness that balances the umami.
3. Pair with local products. Mugaritz uses Basque Idiazábal. At home: any regional cured cheese (Manchego, sheep cheese).
Frequently asked questions
How many Michelin stars does Mugaritz have?
What type of anchovy does Mugaritz use?
How much does it cost to dine at Mugaritz?
Does Aduriz publish his recipes?
How to get Mugaritz-level anchovy for home?
Mugaritz vs Akelarre vs Arzak vs Berasategui?
To finish
Aduriz teaches us that Cantabrian anchovy is not just a bar tapa: it is a technical-conceptual product that can star in world-class haute cuisine. In your home, a size 00 anchovy warmed for 30 seconds on toasted bread with a good cured cheese is the "casual" version of the Mugaritz bite. Premium Cantabrian anchovy is the raw material — you provide the technique.
