In short: José Andrés (ThinkFoodGroup, World Central Kitchen) has been the main ambassador for Spanish cod in international markets. His restaurants in the USA use salted Icelandic cod, applying traditional techniques adapted to the American palate.
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Who is José Andrés and why he matters
José Ramón Andrés Puerta (Asturias, 1969) is a Spanish chef residing in the USA, owner of ThinkFoodGroup (35+ restaurants), founder of World Central Kitchen (humanitarian NGO), winner of the Princess of Asturias Award 2021, and named Person of the Year 2018 by TIME magazine.
For Spanish cod, his impact is hard to overstate: in the USA, "bacalao" (cod) is now associated with Mediterranean-Spanish cuisine largely thanks to his restaurants Jaleo (D.C., Las Vegas), Mercado Little Spain (NYC), and Bazaar (Beverly Hills).
Which products he prefers for cod
Andrés is vocal about the Icelandic origin of Gadus morhua cod: "Salted cod from Iceland has the perfect balance of firm texture and clean flavor" (NYT interview 2019). His restaurants import salted cod from artisan suppliers in Cantabria and Galicia.
Preferred cuts: loin (for main dishes) and shredded (for croquettes, brandade).
Iconic cod dishes
Bacalao Pil Pil (Jaleo D.C.): Gadus morhua loin from Iceland, EVOO, crispy garlic. Served on a hot black stone. Pil pil sauce emulsified in the classic Basque style.
Cod Croquettes (Mercado Little Spain): thick béchamel + finely shredded cod. Extra crispy fried. Served with homemade aioli.
Brandada with Toast (Bazaar): cod + potato + EVOO + reduced milk. Served warm on crispy toast with black caviar on top.
Cod Omelet (Zaytinya, fusion): French omelet with shredded cod and chopped Basque piparra pepper.
Techniques Andrés uses with cod
Professional 36h desalting: three water changes, the last in mineral water (not tap water). Result: cod at 1.5% salt content (vs. 18-22% initially).
Low-temperature cooking: much of his cod cuisine uses sous vide at 50-55°C for 12 min. Result: perfectly cooked whole loin, without risk of overcooking.
Cold-emulsified Pil Pil: Basque technique but executed with an electric whisk to emulsify the oil with the cod's gelatin. Faster than traditional wrist movement.
Frequently asked questions
Where does José Andrés have restaurants?
What type of cod does José Andrés use in his restaurants?
Does José Andrés cook personally?
Does his pil pil recipe differ from the classic Basque one?
Does he promote Spanish products other than cod?
Does he have books?
To conclude
José Andrés is probably the chef who has done the most for Spanish cod in the international market. His techniques—professional 36-hour desalting with careful changes, low-temperature sous vide, strong visual presentation—are perfectly reproducible at home with quality Icelandic desalted cod. The difference between an amateur cook and the "Andrés style" is not the product, it's the care taken at each step.
