Quick Summary: After a blind tasting with 7 Cantabrian anchovy references evaluated by caliber, curing (months in salt), residual salt, color, shine, aroma, and price/fillet, the best-scoring anchovies in 2026 are Codesa Doble Cero (buttery texture, 12 months curing), Don Bocarte Cristal (impeccable fillet, balanced salt), and Casa Santoña (industrial consistency, medium price). Bacalalo sells Leonardo and Filetes del Cantábrico 00 Premium: both in the top 5 with the best value for money.
At Mercat del Ninot, we have been selling Cantabrian anchovies since 1990. We know most of the producers personally. That's why this ranking is not an attack on anyone or a blind promotion of what we sell: it's a blind test with objective criteria where each brand is evaluated by what's on the fillet, not on the label.
We bought all the anchovies in stores (without receiving samples from manufacturers), three professionals tasted them without knowing which brand each one was, and we scored them by seven measurable variables. The goal: so that when a customer asks "which is the best?" we can answer with data, not slogans.
2026 Blind Test Methodology
The test was conducted in March 2026 under the following conditions:
- Blind purchase: all cans/jars purchased in physical store or online, without promotions or samples.
- 7 brands compared: Codesa, Don Bocarte, Leonardo Gourmet, Filetes 00 Premium (Bacalalo), Casa Santoña, Catalina (Hijos de Tomás Catalina) and A92.
- 3 professional tasters (butcher, sommelier, chef) without knowing which brand they were tasting.
- Each fillet evaluated by color, shine, integrity, aroma, residual salt, texture, aftertaste.
- Scoring: each variable from 1 to 5 points. Maximum total: 35 points.
The anchovies were removed from the oil, drained for 30 seconds on absorbent paper, and tasted at room temperature (18-20 °C). The tasting order was randomized to avoid taste fatigue bias.
The 7 Objective Evaluation Criteria
These are the seven technical criteria. Each has a 1-5 scale with an objective description:
1. Fillet Caliber
Fillet size in grams. A high caliber (00 or 0) indicates a large anchovy, usually with more flesh and better texture. Caliber 00: 8-10 g/fillet. Caliber 0: 6-8 g/fillet. Caliber 1: 4-6 g/fillet.
2. Months in Salt (Curing)
Time between catch and desalting/packaging. Minimum 6 months for authentic Cantabrian. Top brands cure for 10-14 months. More curing = more buttery texture and deeper flavor, but also higher cost.
3. Residual Salt
Amount of salt perceived after desalting. The best anchovies have balanced salt (3-4/5). Too much salt indicates insufficient desalting; too little may indicate masking with very aromatic oil.
4. Color and Shine
Uniform pink-brown color, natural shine without looking varnished. Very dark brown color indicates oxidation. Too light a color may indicate young (not Cantabrian) or chemical treatment.
5. Fillet Integrity
Whole fillet, no breaks, no scales, no large bones. A good Cantabrian fillet arrives whole on the plate. Broken fillets are usually the product of smaller caliber or aggressive industrial processing.
6. Aroma and Aftertaste
Marine aroma, not sour or metallic. Aftertaste that lingers for 30-60 seconds. An aroma of "old fish" or metallic taste indicates oxidation or poor preservation.
7. Price per Fillet
Total price of the can/jar divided by the number of fillets. Allows comparison of real value by eliminating the "large can" or "premium presentation" factor.
Final Ranking 2026
These are the results of the blind test, ordered by total score (max 35):
| Pos | Brand | Score | Strong Point | €/fillet |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Codesa Doble Cero | 33/35 | 14 months curing | €2.10 |
| 2 | Don Bocarte Cristal | 31/35 | Impeccable fillet | €1.95 |
| 3 | Leonardo Gourmet (Bacalalo) | 29/35 | Best value for money €/fillet | €1.35 |
| 4 | Filetes 00 Premium (Bacalalo) | 28/35 | Extra large caliber | €1.75 |
| 5 | Casa Santoña | 27/35 | Industrial consistency | €1.85 |
| 6 | Catalina | 25/35 | Santoña tradition | €1.80 |
| 7 | A92 | 22/35 | Low price | €0.95 |
Brand by Brand Analysis
Codesa Doble Cero (33/35) — Blind Test Winner
Codesa has been in Santoña for over 70 years. Its "Doble Cero" is cured for 14 months in salt before canning, which gives it a buttery texture that melts in your mouth. Its 00 caliber with 9-10g fillets and extra virgin olive oil puts them at the top. Weak point: price (~€63/290g can).
Don Bocarte Cristal (31/35) — The Santoña Classic
Don Bocarte's glass jar is a industry benchmark. Uniform fillets, balanced salt, and Arbequina virgin olive oil. The difference with Codesa: fewer months of curing (10-12 months) but a more refined presentation and a slightly lower price.
Leonardo Gourmet — The Best Value for Money
The Leonardo anchovies we sell at Bacalalo combine Cantabrian quality with a reasonable price. Cured for 8-10 months, extra virgin olive oil, and an intact fillet. It doesn't surpass Codesa in tasting but offers €1.35/fillet vs €2.10. For the customer who eats anchovies several times a month, it's the go-to option.
Cantabrian Anchovy Exclusive Leonardo — 160 g
Selected fillets in virgin olive oil. The premium option with the best €/fillet.
View Leonardo ExclusiveFiletes 00 Premium (Bacalalo) — Extra Caliber
Our direct selection from the producer. Caliber 00 with 9-10g fillets, 10 months of curing in salt, and virgin olive oil. Penalized in presentation (can without glass jar) but superior in fillet meat to many products at €2/fillet.
"00" Premium Cantabrian Anchovy Fillets
Caliber 00, 8-10g fillets. Direct selection from the producer.
View 00 FilletsCasa Santoña: Honest Analysis
Casa Santoña deserves a separate analysis. It is one of the most visible brands in the sector, and our customers constantly ask about it. Here's what's good and what could be improved:
What Casa Santoña does well:
- Industrial consistency: each can is practically identical. It is the brand with the least variance between units.
- Distribution and availability: it is found in supermarkets, gourmet stores, online. For the casual buyer, it is the easiest option.
- Meets all minimum standards: fillet without breaks, balanced salt, virgin olive oil.
- Clear communication: the website is transparent about origin and process.
Where it falls behind:
- Average curing (6-8 months) inferior to Codesa or Don Bocarte (10-14 months). This is noticeable in the aftertaste.
- Fillet with less meat in calibers 0 and 1 — the 00 caliber is competitive.
- Price similar or superior to Leonardo/Bacalalo with equivalent quality.
In summary: Casa Santoña is a good anchovy, not the best on the market. If your priority is to buy without thinking in a supermarket, it is perfect. If you are looking for maximum quality or the best €/fillet, there are superior options.
Complete Comparative Table
| Brand | Caliber | Curing | Salt | Color | Integrity | Aroma | Price | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Codesa Doble Cero | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 3 | 33 |
| Don Bocarte | 5 | 4 | 5 | 5 | 5 | 4 | 3 | 31 |
| Leonardo | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 5 | 29 |
| Filetes 00 Bacalalo | 5 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 3 | 28 |
| Casa Santoña | 4 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 27 |
| Catalina | 3 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 25 |
| A92 | 3 | 2 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 3 | 5 | 22 |
Best Value for Money 2026
If we normalize by score divided by €/fillet (Performance per Euro), the ranking changes:
- Leonardo: 29 points / €1.35 = 21.5 ratio
- A92: 22 points / €0.95 = 23.2 ratio (but low absolute quality)
- Filetes 00 Bacalalo: 28 / 1.75 = 16.0
- Don Bocarte: 31 / 1.95 = 15.9
- Casa Santoña: 27 / 1.85 = 14.6
- Codesa: 33 / 2.10 = 15.7
Conclusion: for weekly/biweekly use, Leonardo offers the best value. For a gift or special event, Codesa or Don Bocarte.
Cantabrian Anchovy Menu 45 fillets — Bacalalo
Pack of 45 fillets. For those who consume anchovies regularly. Best €/fillet in the catalog.
View Menu PackHow to buy well (and avoid fakes)
The "Cantabrian anchovy" market has a lot of fraud. To avoid falling for it:
- Read the origin label: it must say "Engraulis encrasicolus" + "Cantabrian Sea". If it says "Engraulis japonicus" or "Argentine Anchovy", it is NOT from the Cantabrian Sea.
- Verify curing months: ask or check online. Less than 6 months = not premium Cantabrian.
- Oil: extra virgin or virgin olive oil. If it says "sunflower" or "vegetable", quality is limited.
- Color: pinkish-brown. Very dark brown = oxidation; very light = young.
- Store: buy from reputable sellers with an identifiable producer. White labels are usually industrial.
And to broaden your criteria, read our guide how to distinguish an authentic Cantabrian anchovy from a fake.
Conclusion
The best Cantabrian anchovies in 2026 are Codesa Doble Cero and Don Bocarte Cristal for absolute premium. For regular use, Leonardo Gourmet and Bacalalo's 00 Premium Fillets offer the best value for money. Casa Santoña is good but lags behind in curing.
If you're buying this month, in our Cantabrian anchovy collection you'll find the options that have passed our quality filter. And if you're looking to compare with other premium preserves, check out the Cantabrian premium preserves cluster.
About the author
Lalo González Rodríguez is responsible for product selection at Bacalalo. Third generation of fishermen and canners, he has more than 30 years selecting Cantabrian anchovies directly with producers from Santoña, Laredo, and Castro Urdiales.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best brand of Cantabrian anchovies in 2026?
According to our 2026 blind test: Codesa Doble Cero (33/35 points) for 14 months of curing and buttery texture. Followed by Don Bocarte Cristal (31/35) and Leonardo Gourmet (29/35, best €/fillet).
Is Casa Santoña the best anchovy?
Casa Santoña is good but not the best. In our blind test, it scored 27/35 (5th position). Its industrial consistency is excellent, but its curing (6-8 months) is below Codesa or Don Bocarte (10-14 months), which is noticeable in the aftertaste.
What does "00" mean in anchovies?
00 (double zero) is the largest size, with fillets weighing 8-10 g. It indicates large anchovies, with more flesh and better texture. 0 is the next size (6-8 g), followed by sizes 1, 2 (smaller).
Why do some anchovies cost €2 per fillet and others €0.80?
Main differences: curing, size, origin, and oil. Anchovies cured for 6 months in salt and size 1 with sunflower oil cost ~€0.80. Anchovies cured for 12-14 months in salt, size 00, virgin olive oil, can reach €2.10/fillet. The biggest price driver is curing.
How long do anchovies in oil last once the jar is opened?
Refrigerated and covered with oil, 7-10 days. If they run out of oil, a maximum of 3 days. It's advisable to transfer them to a glass container with EVOO if they come in an open can to extend their life.
Are Leonardo anchovies truly from the Cantabrian Sea?
Yes. Leonardo Gourmet is a Cantabrian brand with Engraulis encrasicolus anchovies from the Cantabrian Sea. They are cured for 8-10 months and use virgin olive oil. They are the premium option with the best €/fillet that we sell at Bacalalo.
What to do if I open a can and the anchovies taste very salty?
Rinse them under cold water for 10 seconds and dry them with paper towels. If they are too salty from the start, it indicates insufficient industrial desalting — return the can if it's new.
