Chickpea stew with cod tripe and spinach is one of the great dishes of Spanish Lent cuisine. Hearty, comforting, and deeply flavorful, this stew combines the creaminess of chickpeas with the gelatinous texture of cod tripe and the freshness of spinach. It is a humble dish that has earned a place at the most demanding tables. We'll show you the complete recipe, step-by-step, with all the tricks to make it perfect.
Article Contents
What is cod tripe?
Cod tripe refers to the stomach and intestines of cod, a part of the fish that for a long time was considered a low-value byproduct but has now been revalued as a gastronomic delicacy in its own right. In Portugal, it is known as "tripas de bacalhau" and is a star ingredient in traditional cuisine.
Cod tripe has a unique texture: gelatinous, slightly chewy, and extraordinarily rich in collagen. When slow-cooked in a stew, it releases a natural gelatin that thickens and enriches the broth spectacularly. It's exactly the same as with beef tripe, but with the flavor of the sea.
Appearance and texture
Salted cod tripe comes in irregular, yellowish-white pieces with a firm and somewhat rough texture. Once desalted and rehydrated, they become whiter, softer, and more gelatinous. Their flavor is mild, slightly marine, and they wonderfully absorb the flavors of the broth in which they are cooked.
Gastronomic value
What makes cod tripe special is its ability to transform a dish. A chickpea and spinach stew is good; with cod tripe, it becomes something completely different. The gelatin they release gives the broth a creaminess and body that no other ingredient can replicate. It's the best-kept secret of grandmothers who cooked Lenten stew.
History of Lenten stew
Chickpea and cod stew is a dish deeply rooted in Spanish Lenten tradition. During Lent (the 40 days before Easter), Catholic doctrine prescribed abstinence from meat. On Fridays and throughout Holy Week, Spanish families needed hearty dishes to replace their usual meat stews.
The solution was as ingenious as it was delicious: chickpeas (the most cultivated legume in Spain), spinach or chard (available in spring), and salted cod (available year-round and economical). The result was a complete, nutritious dish that could feed an entire family with modest ingredients.
A poor man's dish that conquered all tables
Although it originated as Lenten food for the common people, chickpea and cod stew has transcended its humble origins. Today it is served in restaurants throughout Spain, from traditional taverns to Michelin-starred establishments that reinterpret the recipe with modern techniques. It is a perfect example of how Spanish cuisine transforms simple ingredients into extraordinary dishes.
Full ingredients list
For 6-8 people
- 500 g dried chickpeas (or 1 kg canned cooked chickpeas)
- 400 g salted cod tripe (once desalted, about 600-700 g)
- 300 g fresh spinach (or 200 g frozen spinach)
- 2 hard-boiled eggs
- 1 large onion
- 4 cloves garlic
- 2 ripe tomatoes, grated
- 1 teaspoon sweet paprika from La Vera
- 1 bay leaf
- A pinch of ground cumin
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Salt (adjust at the end)
- Black pepper
For the "majado" (optional but recommended)
- 2 slices of day-old bread, fried
- 2 fried garlic cloves
- 1 tablespoon Jerez vinegar
- A handful of toasted almonds (optional)
- A pinch of saffron (optional)
Preparation: chickpeas and tripe
The chickpeas (the night before)
Soak the dried chickpeas in plenty of water with a teaspoon of coarse salt and a pinch of baking soda. Soak for at least 12 hours (24 is better). Baking soda softens the chickpea skin and reduces cooking time. If using canned cooked chickpeas, skip this step.
The cod tripe (48 hours before)
Salted cod tripe needs careful desalting:
- Rinse the tripe under the tap to remove excess surface salt.
- Place them in a large container with plenty of cold water.
- Refrigerate and change the water every 8-12 hours for 48 hours.
- To check if they are ready, cut a small piece and taste it: it should have a subtly salty flavor.
Once desalted, the tripe will have absorbed water and its volume will have increased significantly. Its texture will be softer and more gelatinous, ready to be incorporated into the stew.
Step-by-step recipe
- Cook the chickpeas: If using soaked chickpeas, drain them and place them in a large pot with cold water that covers them generously (about 3 fingers above). Add the bay leaf and a drizzle of olive oil. Bring to a boil and cook over medium-low heat for 1.5-2 hours until tender but whole. If you need to add water during cooking, always use hot water (cold water hardens the chickpea skin).
- Prepare the tripe: While the chickpeas are cooking, cut the desalted cod tripe into pieces about 3-4 cm. Set aside.
- Sauté: In a large pan with generous extra virgin olive oil, sauté the finely chopped onion over medium heat until transparent and starting to brown (about 15 minutes). Add the chopped garlic cloves and sauté for 2 more minutes. Stir in the grated tomato and cook until the water evaporates and the sofrito turns a dark color (10 minutes). Add the paprika, stir quickly (paprika burns in seconds), and remove from heat.
- Prepare the majado (if you're making it): Fry the bread slices and garlic in olive oil until golden. In a mortar, mash the fried bread, garlic, toasted almonds (if using), a pinch of saffron, cumin, and Jerez vinegar until you get a paste. If you don't have a mortar, blend it in a hand blender.
- Combine everything in the pot: When the chickpeas are almost tender, add the sofrito, the cod tripe, and the majado (if you've prepared it). Mix carefully. Cook everything together over low heat for 30-40 minutes. The cod tripe will release its gelatin, thickening and enriching the stew broth.
- Add the spinach: In the last 5-10 minutes of cooking, add the washed fresh spinach (or thawed if frozen). Spinach reduces quickly. If using chard, add it 15 minutes earlier because it needs more cooking time.
- Adjust seasoning: Taste the broth and adjust salt if necessary (remember that cod tripe adds saltiness). Add black pepper to taste. The stew should have a thick but soupy consistency: it's not a cream, but also not a dry dish. If it's too liquid, turn up the heat and reduce for a few minutes. If it's too thick, add a little hot broth or water.
- Rest: Turn off the heat and let the stew rest, covered, for at least 20-30 minutes. Like all stews, this one improves with rest because the flavors integrate and the texture settles.
- Serve: Serve in deep plates, garnished with sliced hard-boiled egg, a drizzle of raw extra virgin olive oil, and, if you like, some fried bread croutons.
6 secrets for the perfect stew
- Don't overmix: Stir with a wooden spoon and gentle movements. Chickpeas break easily, and a stew with broken chickpeas loses appearance and texture.
- The majado makes all the difference: Many cooks skip the majado out of laziness, but it's the ingredient that separates a decent stew from an extraordinary one. Fried bread and almonds thicken the broth and provide a depth of flavor that the sofrito alone cannot achieve.
- Don't add spinach too early: Spinach can easily overcook, losing color, texture, and vitamins. Add it in the last 5-10 minutes to preserve its vibrant green and fresh flavor.
- Chickpea quality matters: A chickpea from Fuentesaúco, Pedrosillo, or another quality designation has a noticeable difference in flavor and texture compared to an industrial chickpea. It's worth investing in good quality chickpeas.
- The next day's stew: Like almost all legume stews, this one tastes better the next day. The chickpeas absorb the flavors of the broth overnight, and the gelatin from the cod tripe fully integrates. If you can, prepare it a day in advance.
- The touch of vinegar: A teaspoon of Jerez vinegar added just before serving (or included in the majado) adds a hint of acidity that balances the richness of the broth and awakens all the flavors. It's a subtle but powerful trick.
Variations of cod stew
With cod loins instead of tripe
If you can't find cod tripe, you can use desalted cod loins cut into large pieces. The result will be less gelatinous but equally flavorful. Add the loins in the last 15 minutes of cooking so they don't fall apart.
With chard instead of spinach
In many regions of Spain, the stew is prepared with chard instead of spinach. Chard has a slightly earthier flavor, and the stalks add a different texture. If using chard, separate the stalks (which need more cooking) from the leaves and add them 15 minutes earlier.
With prawns
A more festive version that is especially prepared for Good Friday dinner. Peeled prawns are added in the last 5 minutes of cooking. The contrast between the seafood, chickpeas, and cod is spectacular.
Lenten stew with poached egg
Instead of hard-boiled eggs, some cooks poach an egg directly in the hot stew just before serving. The runny yolk mixes with the broth, creating an incredible sauce. It's a more modern and visual version.
With alioli
In some areas of Catalonia and Valencia, cod stew is served with a spoonful of alioli that dissolves in the hot broth. The combination of raw garlic from the alioli with the cod gelatin is addictive.
Nutritional value of the stew
Chickpea stew with cod tripe and spinach is a nutritionally complete dish:
- Proteins: Chickpeas provide plant protein, and cod provides high-quality animal protein. Together, they form a complete amino acid profile.
- Fiber: Chickpeas are an excellent source of dietary fiber (between 12 and 15 g per 100 g of dried chickpeas).
- Iron: Spinach and chickpeas provide vegetable iron. The vitamin C in spinach promotes its absorption.
- Collagen: Cod tripe is rich in collagen, which transforms into gelatin during cooking, with benefits for joints and skin.
- Healthy fats: Extra virgin olive oil provides monounsaturated fatty acids (oleic acid).
- Approximate caloric value: A generous serving (400 g) is around 350-400 kcal, a moderate figure for such a satisfying main course.
How to store and reheat
- Refrigerator: It keeps for 4-5 days in an airtight container. The gelatin from the cod tripe solidifies when cold, which is normal: it liquefies again when reheated.
- Freezer: It freezes perfectly for up to 3 months. Chickpeas and cod tripe withstand freezing well. Spinach will lose some texture but the flavor remains.
- Reheating: Always over low heat in a pot or casserole, stirring occasionally. If it has thickened too much in the fridge, add a splash of hot water or broth. Avoid microwaving at maximum power, which can dry out the chickpeas on the surface.
Frequently asked questions
Where can I buy cod tripe?
Cod tripe can be found in specialized fishmongers and gourmet food stores. It is usually sold salted, just like cod itself. In some areas, it is a less common product than loins, so you may need to ask for it specifically. You can also find it in specialized online seafood stores.
Can I make the stew without cod tripe?
Yes, you can substitute them with desalted cod loins or flakes. The result will be different (less gelatinous and less creamy) but equally delicious. If using loins, cut them into large pieces and add them in the last 15 minutes of cooking so they don't fall apart.
Can it be made in a pressure cooker?
Yes. Cook the chickpeas in the pressure cooker for 20-25 minutes. Then open, add the sofrito, cod tripe, and spinach, and cook everything together over low heat (without pressure) for 20 more minutes. The pressure cooker drastically reduces the cooking time for chickpeas, but it's important not to cook the cod under pressure because it would disintegrate.
Is this a dish only for Lent or can it be eaten year-round?
Although traditionally associated with Lent and Holy Week, chickpea and cod stew is a dish that can (and should) be enjoyed throughout the year. It is especially comforting in the autumn and winter months, when hot and hearty dishes are appealing. In many Spanish homes, it is commonly eaten throughout the cold season.
What wine pairs well with this stew?
A full-bodied white wine, such as a Godello from Valdeorras or a barrel-fermented Verdejo, works well with the creaminess of the broth. If you prefer red, a young and fruity red (Mencía del Bierzo, Garnacha de Aragón) without too many tannins complements the chickpeas and cod without overpowering them. A Fino sherry is perhaps the most classic and appropriate pairing.
What is the difference between cod tripe and kokotxas?
They are completely different parts. Kokotxas are the lower part of the cod's jaw (the "wattle"), a small and delicate piece highly prized in Basque cuisine. Callos (tripe) are the stomach and intestines, larger pieces with a more gelatinous texture. Both are rich in collagen, but kokotxas are considered a nobler cut and are much more expensive.
Can I add other ingredients to the stew?
There are many regional variations that incorporate additional ingredients: green beans, carrots, potatoes, noodles, or even rice. The base of chickpeas, cod, and vegetables is very versatile and allows for additions without losing its essence. What you should not do is overload the stew with too many ingredients that dilute the main flavors.
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Conclusions
Chickpea stew with cod tripe and spinach is one of those dishes that demonstrate the brilliance of traditional Spanish cuisine. With humble ingredients and a simple technique, a result is achieved that is satisfying, comforting, and nourishing. The key lies in the cod tripe, that often-forgotten part that adds gelatin and a depth of flavor that elevates the stew to another category.
Whether you prepare it for Easter or for any winter dinner, this stew is a reminder that great cooking doesn't require expensive ingredients or complicated techniques. It needs quality produce, patience, and the knowledge of a few tricks that make all the difference.
At Bacalalo.com, from Mercat del Ninot, we have been offering both cod tripe and premium cod loins since 1990. Because honest cooking deserves honest ingredients, not marketing.
