In short: 2026 blind taste test of 8 brands of Cantabrian anchovies (Santoña). Top 3: Codesa Tradición (9.1/10), Bacalalo selección 00 (8.9/10), and Hoya Oro (8.5/10). Best value for money: Bacalalo at €0.49/fillet.
Table of Contents
Blind test methodology
We purchased 8 different brands of Cantabrian anchovies (mostly Santoña) from 5 retail points: two supermarkets, two specialty stores, and one direct online purchase.
Brands evaluated: 5Ñ Santoña, Codesa Tradición, Hoya Oro, Catalina, Lolín, Bacalalo selección 00, La Brújula, and a Mercadona private label brand.
Criteria evaluated (score 0-10):
- Uniform calibre (fillet length and weight)
- Color (optimal mahogany-reddish)
- Texture to the touch (firmness, not falling apart when pierced)
- Flavor (intensity, persistence, salinity)
- Covering oil (extra virgin olive oil quality)
- Price €/fillet
The tastings were blind: the evaluator did not see the brand or packaging, only the fillet on a neutral plate.
Top 3 — the blind test winners
1. Codesa Tradición (Santoña) — 9.1/10. 70-fillet jar, 00 calibre. Uniform mahogany color, firm texture without sliminess, deep flavor with a slightly sweet finish. Notable extra virgin olive oil. Price: €32/jar (≈ €0.46/fillet). The Santoña "gold standard."
2. Bacalalo selección 00 — 8.9/10. 70-fillet XXL jar, 00 calibre, cured for 12 months. Cleaner and less salty flavor than Codesa, ideal if you prefer a "fresh" profile. Technical tie in texture. Price: €34/jar (≈ €0.49/fillet). Available online directly, without intermediaries.
3. Hoya Oro Santoña — 8.5/10. 50g tin, 0 calibre. Traditional, classic profile, no surprises. Slightly saltier flavor than Bacalalo. Price: €14/tin (≈ €1/fillet, worse ratio). Excellent if you're looking for a small tin format.
The rest: 4th to 8th place
4. Lolín Santoña — 8.2/10. Very correct 0 calibre, balanced flavor. Well-cured. Price €13/50g tin.
5. 5Ñ Santoña — 7.9/10. Historic brand. Deep flavor but some pieces with uneven curing in the tasting. Price €15/50g tin.
6. Catalina — 7.5/10. Good jar, 0 calibre, slightly soft texture in 2 fillets. Clean flavor. €16/100g jar.
7. La Brújula — 7.2/10. Small fillets (1 calibre), decent curing. Good price (€9/30g tin). For a quick tapa.
8. Mercadona private label — 5.8/10. Very small fillets (2 calibre), more industrial flavor, evidently less curing. Sunflower oil with a touch of olive oil. €4.5/50g tin. Acceptable if budget is a constraint, but not premium Cantabrian.
Best value for money: the "value pick"
If we separate scoring by price, the winner in terms of value for money is Bacalalo selección 00: 8.9/10 at €0.49/fillet. Codesa (9.1/10 at €0.46/fillet) wins in absolute value but by a small margin. Hoya loses the value-pick podium due to its price per fillet (€1/unit in tin format).
The € per fillet ratio is more useful than € per tin, because XXL jars cost more in absolute terms but contain 70 fillets (≈ 5-7 servings), while 50g tins contain 10-15 fillets (1-2 servings).
Bacalalo Cantabrian Anchovies
00 calibre, cured for 12 months in Cantabrian sea salt. XXL jars and premium tins. Artisanal selection from Mercat del Ninot. Order today, in your fridge tomorrow.
Common mistakes when buying anchovies
Confusing "anchovy" with "marinated white anchovy" (boquerón en vinagre). These are different products: anchovies are salt-cured for 9-12 months, white anchovies are fresh and marinated in vinegar. The label should say "anchovies in oil" or "anchovy fillets."
Buying the cheapest tin. Below €8/50g tin, you will rarely find real Cantabrian anchovies with proper curing. These are usually Argentinian anchovies (Engraulis anchoita) or Peruvian anchovies with short curing times.
Ignoring the calibre. A 2-calibre tin contains more but smaller fillets, a worse experience. Calibre 0 or 00 makes a clear difference.
Storing outside the refrigerator after opening. The oil only protects if kept at a cold temperature. In summer, an open tin at room temperature loses quality in 24 hours.
Buying jars that have been on the shelf for more than 12 months. Anchovies have a best-before date, but they lose flavor notes and darken after 18 months. Check the date.
Bacalalo 00 Calibre Cantabrian Anchovies
The selection that came second in our own blind test. 70 XXL fillets in extra virgin olive oil, cured for 12 months. Refrigerated shipping.
Frequently asked questions
What are the best Santoña anchovies according to OCU 2026?
What is 00 (double zero) calibre in anchovies?
Where can you buy the best Santoña anchovies?
How much does a good tin of Cantabrian anchovies cost?
Are Santoña anchovies and Cantabrian anchovies the same?
How long do anchovies last once opened?
Why are some anchovies reddish and others brownish?
To conclude
The best Cantabrian anchovies are not bought by weight, they are bought by the fillet. A small tin of 00 calibre for €15 offers a better experience than a generic jar for €25 with mixed calibre. If you have to choose one, Bacalalo selección 00 is the most solid value-pick from the blind test (8.9/10 at €0.49/fillet).
To buy well: check calibre (00 or 0), minimum 9 months curing, preserved in extra virgin olive oil, and price per fillet < €0.60. Above that, you're paying for the brand, not extra quality.
Anchovies for gildas and appetizers
If you want them for making gildas or pintxos: 00 calibre is ideal for size + intensity. Artisanal selection from Mercat del Ninot.
