Summary: Anchovy pairing is one of the most interesting gastronomic exercises because anchovies are a product with a complexity of flavor that challenges the wines they are paired with. High salinity, deep umami, unctuous fat, and a persistent aftertaste: these are four variables that not all wines can handle. In this guide, we explain which wines work and why, which beers complement artisanal Cantabrian anchovies, the role of vermouth and manzanilla in Spanish tapas culture, and which drinks definitely don't work with quality anchovies.
Principles of anchovy pairing
Updated March 2026. Based on our 30+ years of experience at Mercat del Ninot, here are our recommendations.
Food and drink pairing works through two mechanisms: contrast and complementarity. Contrast uses the drink to balance a dominant characteristic of the food (the wine's acidity contrasts with the anchovy's fat). Complementarity seeks for both drink and food to share characteristics that reinforce each other (the salinity of fino and the salinity of the anchovy enhance each other rather than canceling out).
Cantabrian anchovies have three dominant characteristics that influence pairing: high salinity (but not aggressive in well-cured artisanal anchovies), unctuous fat (olive oil and intramuscular fat of the anchovy), and deep umami with a persistent aftertaste.
The goal of correct anchovy pairing is, in this order: first, for the drink to cleanse the fat from the palate between bites (a refreshing function, primarily achieved by acidity and effervescence); second, for it not to overpower the anchovy's umami with excessive tannins or sweetness; and third, if applicable, to enhance the product's marine and saline experience.
At Bacalalo, we have spent 35 years at Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona trying combinations of anchovies with all kinds of drinks. The recommendations in this guide are not theoretical — they are what we have seen work in practice.
White wines that work with anchovies
White wines are the natural allies of anchovies. Their acidity, freshness, and lack of tannins make them the most versatile option to accompany anchovies in any format.
Albariño and Rías Baixas
The pairing with the most geographical and gastronomic coherence. Albariño from Rías Baixas in Galicia has a brilliant acidity, citrus fruit notes, and a minerality with iodine reminiscences that directly connects to the sea. This "saline" minerality doesn't compete with the anchovy — it complements it. The slightly bitter aftertaste of Albariño cleanses the oil's fat between bites and prepares the palate for the next fillet. It is the go-to pairing for Cantabrian anchovies in Spain.
Txakoli
The white wine from Getaria, in the Basque Country, is the most local pairing for Cantabrian anchovies. Txakoli has high acidity, a gentle natural carbonation, and a light body (between 9 and 11% alcohol) that makes it refreshing and not overpowering. The green acidity of Txakoli (with notes of green fruit, citrus, and salt) works very well with anchovies as an aperitif or in the context of the Basque Gilda.
Mâcon-Villages or Chablis (white Burgundy)
For gourmet pairing with high-quality anchovies (00 caliber served as a high-level appetizer), an unoaked Chablis or Mâcon is an excellent choice. The chalky minerality and clean acidity of Burgundy wines do not overpower the anchovy — they frame it. The freshness of Chablis with a 00 anchovy on a sourdough toast with butter is a combination that works at any sophisticated table.
Verdejo from Rueda
Verdejo from Rueda, especially unoaked versions, has the necessary acidity and freshness to accompany anchovies. Its herbaceous and tropical fruit notes have less marine coherence than Albariño, but they work correctly. They are an accessible and well-distributed option throughout Spain.
Cava, champagne, and sparkling wines
Sparkling wines are the second great ally of anchovies, and in some contexts, the best. The bubbles of carbonic acid act as mechanical palate cleansers — each sip of sparkling wine "resets" the taste buds, allowing you to perceive the next anchovy with the same intensity as the first.
Catalan Cava Brut Nature (without added dosage, thus without residual sugar) is the most direct choice for the Spanish market. Made in Penedès with Macabeo, Xarel-lo, and Parellada varieties, it has high acidity and a hint of minerality that complements anchovies well. At Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona, the aperitif of Penedès cavas with Cantabrian anchovies is a combination that needs no introduction.
Champagne, especially Extra Brut or Brut Nature versions from major houses, is the most prestigious pairing for 00 caliber anchovies. The complexity of vintage champagnes (with notes of brioche, nuts, and yeast) complements the richness of artisanal, long-cured anchovies in a way that younger cavas cannot achieve. It is a special occasion pairing.
Rosé champagne or rosé cava work less well with anchovies than white — the residual tannins of red varieties (even if minimal) interfere with the anchovy's umami.
Do red wines work with anchovies?
This is the most frequent question in anchovy pairing, and the answer is nuanced: most red wines do not work well with anchovies, but there are specific exceptions that deserve attention.
The problem with red wines and anchovies is tannin. The tannins in red wine combine with the proteins and glutamate of the anchovy, producing an unpleasant metallic and bitter taste. This is the same effect that makes red wines problematic with most fish and seafood.
The exceptions that do work: red wines with very low tannins and high acidity. A Bardolino from Lake Garda, an unoaked Beaujolais Villages, a fresh Mencía from Bierzo, or a young Pinot Noir are cases where red wine can work with anchovies if the circumstances are right (anchovies as part of a cooked dish, not as a pure aperitif). With anchovies as a direct aperitif on toast, even these soft reds yield a result inferior to that of a white or sparkling wine.
Manzanilla and Fino: the classic Spanish pairing
Manzanilla and Fino de Jerez are the most traditional pairings with anchovies in Spanish gastronomy, and for a precise technical reason. These biologically aged fortified wines — those that develop a flor layer during aging — have a unique characteristic: their own saline, iodine, marine quality, which comes from the terroir of Sanlucar de Barrameda (in the case of Manzanilla) and the Jerez wineries (in the case of Fino).
This marine salinity of Fino and Manzanilla does not compete with the anchovy — it harmonizes with it. The result is a complementarity that amplifies the best of both products: the anchovy seems more marine and complex, and the wine seems more gastronomic and less austere. The slight bitterness and acidity of the Fino perfectly cleanse the anchovy's fat.
Serving temperature matters: Manzanilla and Fino should be served very cold (7-9 °C), in a thin white wine glass or a specific sherry glass, never in a short tumbler. At room temperature, they lose their freshness and the marine salinity that is their best pairing argument.
Vermouth and anchovies: the aperitif culture
Vermouth and anchovies are part of the same Mediterranean aperitif culture. In Barcelona, at Mercat del Ninot, Sunday vermouth hour with Cantabrian anchovies is a tradition as deeply rooted as pa amb tomàquet. No self-respecting market bar would be without anchovies and vermouth on the same counter.
Dry white vermouth (Noilly Prat, Dolin Dry, Lustau Blanco Seco) works particularly well because its aromatic plant bitterness and acidity complement the anchovy's umami without adding the sweetness of red vermouth. Red vermouth (Martini Rosso, Reus vermouth, La Copa) also works, although the initial sweetness can clash with the direct salinity of more intense anchovies. A long-cured, round-flavored anchovy accepts red vermouth better than a very salty anchovy.
Reus vermouth (Catalan) has a direct tradition with northern anchovies — the commercial route of Catalan vermouth and Cantabrian anchovies crossed precisely in markets like Mercat del Ninot. This combination has more than a century of verified gastronomic history.
Beer and anchovies: which styles work
Beer with anchovies is a less explored combination in Spanish gastronomic culture than wine or vermouth, but it has its well-defined place if the correct style is chosen.
Pilsner lagers (very cold, with good carbonation and moderate bitterness) are the most accessible beer pairing with anchovies. The carbonation cleanses the fat, the hop acidity complements the salinity, and the cold temperature refreshes the palate. A quality lager — not a flat industrial lager — is a perfectly valid choice for an informal anchovy aperitif.
Wheat beers (German Weizen, Belgian witbier) have a softness and effervescence that works well with anchovies on toast. Their yeast and citrus notes are refreshing without being overpowering.
High-hopped beers (American IPAs with intense bitterness) do not work well with anchovies. The pronounced hop bitterness conflicts with the anchovy's umami, producing metallic sensations. A session IPA with moderate bitterness might marginally work, but it's not the optimal choice.
Toasted character beers (stout, porter) are too dominant for anchovies as a simple appetizer. In the context of a cooked dish — anchovies on dark bread toast with cured cheese — a smoked stout might make sense, but it is a combination for extreme contrast enthusiasts.
Pairing by recipe or serving style
The correct pairing varies depending on how the anchovies are served. Here are the recommended combinations by format:
| Anchovy format | First option | Second option |
|---|---|---|
| Anchovy on simple toast (butter or tomato) | Cava Brut Nature | Albariño Rías Baixas |
| Pure anchovy aperitif (straight from the tin) | Manzanilla or very cold Fino | Txakoli |
| Bagna cauda (anchovies in hot sauce) | Barbera d'Asti or Dolcetto | Very cold Lager |
| Pasta with anchovies | Vermentino or Greco di Tufo | Unoaked Verdejo |
| Pizza with anchovies | Italian Lager or Vermentino | Dry Lambrusco |
| Anchovy in Gilda (pintxo) | Txakoli | Dry white vermouth |
For toast recipes, see our guide to 10 gourmet anchovy toast combinations. For bagna cauda, see anchovy sauce and bagna cauda: complete recipe.
What drinks definitely don't work
There are combinations that don't work and should be avoided in contexts where the gastronomic experience matters.
Red wines aged in oak with high tannins: Ribera del Duero with oak, Rioja Gran Reserva, Priorat. The tannin plus the anchovy's umami produce very unpleasant metallic sensations. It's a classic pairing mistake still made in restaurants.
Sweet wines (Moscato, Sauternes, Moscatel): The sweetness of the wine and the salinity of the anchovy either cancel each other out or produce such an extreme contrast that neither is clearly perceived. Only in the very specific context of anchovy with foie gras or very blue cheese might it have some experimental sense.
Whisky or high-proof spirits: Alcohol of 40° or more temporarily numbs the taste buds, making it impossible to perceive the complexity of the anchovy. A €38.90 anchovy served with whisky is a waste.
Highly carbonated sparkling water on its own: Sparkling water doesn't pair, but it doesn't harm either. It simply cleanses the palate between bites without adding anything to the experience.
