anchovy and wine pairing

Principles of anchovy pairing

The pairing of any food with a beverage works through two mechanisms: contrast and complementarity. Contrast uses the beverage to balance a dominant characteristic of the food (the acidity of wine contrasts with the fat of anchovies). Complementarity seeks for both beverage and food to share characteristics that mutually reinforce each other (the salinity of fino and the salinity of anchovies enhance each other instead of canceling each other out).

Cantabrian anchovies have three dominant characteristics that condition their pairing: high salinity (but not aggressive in well-cured artisanal anchovies), unctuous fat (from olive oil and intramuscular fat of the boquerón), and a deep umami with a persistent aftertaste.

The goal of correct anchovy pairing is, in this order: first, for the drink to cleanse the palate of fat between bites (a refreshing function, mainly achieved by acidity and carbonation); second, not to overwhelm the umami of the anchovy with excessive tannins or sweetness; and third, to enhance the marine and saline experience of the product, if applicable.

At Bacalalo, we have spent 35 years at the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona trying combinations of anchovies with all kinds of drinks. The recommendations in this guide are not theoretical — they are the ones we have seen work in practice.

White wines that work with anchovies

White wines are the natural allies of anchovies. Their acidity, freshness, and absence of tannins make them the most versatile option to accompany anchovies in any format.

Albariño and Rías Baixas

The pairing with the most geographical and gastronomic coherence. Albariño from the Galician Rías Baixas has brilliant acidity, citrus fruit notes, and a minerality with iodized reminiscences that directly connects with the sea. This "saline" minerality does not compete with the anchovy — it complements it. The slightly bitter aftertaste of Albariño cleanses the oil's fat between bites and prepares the palate for the next fillet. It is the reference pairing for Cantabrian anchovies in Spain.

Txakoli

The white wine from Getaria, in the Basque Country, is the most local pairing for Cantabrian anchovies. Txakoli has high acidity, gentle natural carbonation, and a light body (between 9 and 11% alcohol) that makes it refreshing and not overpowering. The green acidity of Txakoli (with notes of green fruit, citrus, and salt) works very well with anchovies as an aperitif or in the context of the Basque Gilda.

Mâcon-Villages or Chablis (white Burgundy)

For the context of gourmet pairing with high-quality anchovies (size 00 served as a high-level aperitif), an unoaked Chablis or Mâcon is an excellent choice. The chalky minerality and clean acidity of Burgundy wines do not impose themselves on the anchovy — they frame it. The freshness of Chablis with a 00 anchovy on a sourdough toast with butter is a combination that works at any sophisticated table.

Verdejos from Rueda

Verdejo from Rueda, especially unoaked versions, has the necessary acidity and freshness to accompany anchovies. Its herbaceous and tropical fruit notes have less marine coherence than Albariño, but they work correctly. They are an accessible and well-distributed option throughout Spain.

Cava, champagne, and sparkling wines

Sparkling wines are the second great ally of anchovies, and in some contexts, the best. The bubbles of carbonation act as mechanical palate cleansers — each sip of sparkling wine "resets" the taste buds, allowing the next anchovy to be perceived with the same intensity as the first.

Catalan Cava Brut Nature (with no added expedition liqueur, therefore no residual sugar) is the most direct choice for the Spanish market. Made in Penedès with Macabeo, Xarel-lo, and Parellada varieties, it has high acidity and a hint of minerality that complements anchovies well. At the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona, the aperitif of Penedès Cavas with Cantabrian anchovies is a combination that needs no introduction.

Champagne, especially Extra Brut or Brut Nature versions from major houses, is the most prestigious pairing with 00-size anchovies. The complexity of vintage Champagnes (with notes of brioche, dried fruits, and yeast) complements the richness of artisanal, long-cured anchovies in a way that younger Cavas cannot achieve. It is a special occasion pairing.

Rosé Champagne or rosé Cava work less well with anchovies than white versions — the residual tannins of red varieties (even if minimal) interfere with the umami of the anchovy.

Do red wines work with anchovies?

This is the most frequent question in anchovy pairing, and the answer is nuanced: most red wines do not work well with anchovies, but there are specific exceptions that deserve attention.

The problem with red wines and anchovies is tannins. Red wine tannins combine with the proteins and glutamate of anchovies, producing an unpleasant metallic and bitter taste. It's the same effect that makes red wines problematic with most fish and seafood.

The exceptions that work: reds with very low tannins and high acidity. A Bardolino from Lake Garda, an unoaked Beaujolais Villages, a fresh Mencía from Bierzo, or a young Pinot Noir are cases where red wine can work with anchovies if the circumstances are right (anchovies as part of a cooked dish, not as a pure aperitif). With anchovies as a direct aperitif on toast, even these mild reds produce an inferior result compared to a white or sparkling wine.

Manzanilla and Fino: The classic Spanish pairing

Manzanilla and Fino de Jerez are the most traditional pairings with anchovies in Spanish gastronomic culture, and for precise technical reasons. These biologically aged fortified wines — which develop the flor veil during their aging — have a unique characteristic: their own saline, iodized, and marine quality, which comes from the terroir of Sanlúcar de Barrameda (in the case of Manzanilla) and the Jerez wineries (in the case of Fino).

This marine salinity of Fino and Manzanilla does not compete with the anchovy — it harmonizes with it. The result is a complementarity that amplifies the best of both products: the anchovy appears more marine and complex, and the wine seems more gastronomic and less austere. The hint of bitterness and acidity of Fino perfectly cleanse the anchovy's fat.

Serving temperature matters: Manzanilla and Fino should be served very cold (7-9 °C), in a thin white wine glass or a specific Jerez glass, never in a short glass. At room temperature, they lose their freshness and the marine salinity that is their best pairing argument.

Vermouth and anchovies: The aperitif culture

Vermouth and anchovies are part of the same Mediterranean aperitif culture. In Barcelona, at the Mercat del Ninot, Sunday vermouth hour with Cantabrian anchovies is a tradition as deeply rooted as pa amb tomàquet. No self-respecting market bar lacks anchovies and vermouth on the same counter.

Dry white vermouth (Noilly Prat, Dolin Dry, Lustau Blanco Seco) works especially well because its bitterness from aromatic plants and its acidity complement the umami of the anchovy without adding the sweetness of red vermouth. Red vermouth (Martini Rosso, Reus vermouth, La Copa) also works, although the initial sweetness can clash with the direct salinity of more intense anchovies. A long-cured anchovy with a round flavor accepts red vermouth better than a very salty anchovy.

Reus vermouth (Catalan) has a direct tradition with northern anchovies — the commercial route of Catalan vermouth and Cantabrian anchovies crossed precisely in markets like the Mercat del Ninot. This combination has more than a century of verified gastronomic history.

Beer and anchovies: Which styles work

Beer with anchovies is a less explored combination in Spanish gastronomic culture than wine or vermouth, but it has its well-defined place if the correct style is chosen.

Pilsner lager beers (well chilled, with good carbonation and moderate bitterness) are the most accessible beer pairing with anchovies. The carbonation cleanses the fat, the hop acidity complements the salinity, and the cold temperature refreshes the palate. A quality lager — not a flat industrial lager — is a perfectly valid choice for an informal anchovy aperitif.

Wheat beers (German Weizen, Belgian witbier) have a softness and effervescence that works well with anchovies on toast. Their yeast and citrus notes are refreshing without being dominant.

High-hopped beers (American IPAs with intense bitterness) do not work well with anchovies. The pronounced bitterness of the hops conflicts with the umami of the anchovy, producing metallic sensations. A session IPA with moderate bitterness might marginally work, but it is not the optimal choice.

Toasted character beers (stout, porter) are too dominant for simple anchovy aperitifs. In the context of a cooked dish — anchovies on dark bread toast with aged cheese — a smoked stout might make sense, but it's a combination for fans of extreme contrasts.

Pairing according to recipe or serving style

The correct pairing varies depending on how the anchovies are served. Here are the recommended combinations by format:

For toast recipes, see our guide to 10 gourmet anchovy toast combinations. For bagna cauda, see anchovy sauce and bagna cauda: complete recipe.

What drinks definitely don't work

There are combinations that don't work and should be avoided in contexts where gastronomic experience matters.

Red wines aged in barrels with high tannins: Oak-aged Ribera del Duero, Rioja Gran Reserva, Priorat. Tannin plus anchovy umami produces very unpleasant metallic sensations. It is a classic pairing mistake that continues to be made in restaurants.

Sweet wines (Moscato, Sauternes, Moscatel): The sweetness of the wine and the salinity of the anchovy cancel each other out or create such an extreme contrast that neither is clearly perceived. Only in the very specific context of anchovy with foie gras or very blue cheese might it make some experimental sense.

Whisky or high-proof spirits: Alcohol of 40° or more temporarily numbs the taste buds, making it impossible to perceive the complexity of the anchovy. An anchovy costing €38.90 served with whisky is a waste.

Highly carbonated sparkling water without anything else: Sparkling water doesn't pair, but it doesn't harm either. It simply cleanses the palate between bites without adding anything to the experience.

Frequently Asked Questions about anchovy pairing

Does anchovy quality affect the pairing?
Considerably. A long, artisanal-cured anchovy, with complex umami and balanced salinity, better accepts wines with character — an aged Fino, a reserve Cava, an Albariño with a certain complexity. A very salty anchovy without flavor depth requires a drink that "cleanses" it more than complements it, such as a well-chilled lager or a very fresh Txakoli. Anchovy quality expands pairing possibilities.

Can you drink tea with anchovies?
A cold Japanese green tea (gyokuro, sencha) has a minerality and lightness that can work surprisingly well with anchovies as an aperitif. The tannins in green tea are softer than those in red wine and do not produce the metallic taste of wine tannins. It is an unconventional but intellectually interesting pairing.

Does homemade vermouth work with anchovies?
Homemade vermouth (white wine macerated with aromatic plants: wormwood, angelica, cinnamon, citrus) varies greatly depending on the recipe. If it's dry with a clean bitterness, it works perfectly. If it's too sweet or has very dominant herbs, it can compete with the anchovy. In general, the homemade vermouths that are most liked with anchovies are those with more of a dry profile than a sweet one.

Can the oil from the anchovy tin be used to flavor vermouth?
Technically yes — it's a cutting-edge mixology practice called "fat washing" that produces interesting results. Anchovy oil has aromatic compounds that, mixed with dry white vermouth and cold-filtered, produce a cocktail with marine reminiscences. It's a preparation for creative cocktail bars, not for regular home use.

What do they recommend at the Mercat del Ninot with anchovies?
The tradition of the Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona — where we have been since 1990 — is midday vermouth with Cantabrian anchovies. Red Reus vermouth or very cold Fino, anchovy directly from the tin with a little extra oil and bread with tomato. It is the combination that has stood the test of time in Barcelona's gastronomic culture.