Summary: Hake kokotxas are the jewel of Basque gastronomy. More delicate than cod, with a subtle flavor and a melt-in-your-mouth texture. This guide teaches you all the ways to prepare them: battered, in green sauce, pil pil style, and grilled, with tips for choosing the best ones and not ruining them in the kitchen.
Table of Contents
What are hake kokotxas
Hake kokotxas are the V-shaped muscle located under the fish's lower jaw. This is the part that the hake uses to move its gills during respiration. This constant function gives it a unique composition: lean meat intertwined with collagen and gelatin fibers that, when cooked, give it that unmistakable texture — firm to the bite yet melting in the mouth, releasing all its sea flavor.
European hake (Merluccius merluccius), especially that caught in the Cantabrian Sea and the Bay of Biscay, produces the most prized kokotxas. They are smaller than cod kokotxas but their flavor is finer, more elegant, with sweet and marine notes that make them one of the most valued items on the market.
Each hake has only two kokotxas, one on each side of the jaw. This, coupled with increasing demand, explains why their price is considerably higher than other cuts of fish. A 3 kg hake can yield two kokotxas totaling barely 30-40 grams. To serve 4 people, you'll need kokotxas from at least 6-8 hakes.
In Basque fishing tradition, kokotxas were the part that the arrantzales (fishermen) kept for their own consumption. They were not sold because there was no demand. It was the New Basque Cuisine revolution in the 1970s that elevated them to a high-end gastronomic ingredient, and today they are sought after by restaurants and individuals alike.
How to choose the best hake kokotxas
Choosing good kokotxas is essential for the final result. These are the criteria we use at Mercat del Ninot:
Freshness
- Color: Pearly white with pinkish reflections. If they are yellowish or grayish, they are not fresh.
- Texture: Firm to the touch but elastic. If they are soft or sticky, discard them.
- Smell: Of clean sea. Any ammonia-like or unpleasant smell indicates deterioration.
- Skin: Intact and well-attached to the flesh. The skin is where the gelatin is.
Size
Large kokotxas (from hake weighing 3+ kg) are the most valued because they have more flesh and proportionally more gelatin. Small ones (from hake weighing 1-2 kg) are cheaper but just as tasty — you just need more quantity.
Origin
The most prized are those from the Cantabrian Sea (caught by the Basque and Cantabrian fleet) and from the Grand Sole (waters between Ireland and Brittany). Hake kokotxas from Argentina or Chile are larger but less flavorful.
Fresh vs. Frozen
Fresh kokotxas have an extra point of texture, but those frozen at sea (flash-frozen immediately after capture) retain their properties very well. For recipes like green sauce or battered kokotxas, frozen ones are an excellent option. For pil pil, fresh ones yield better results.
Recipe: Battered hake kokotxas
The simplest and most popular way to prepare kokotxas. Perfect as a tapa, pintxo, or appetizer.
Ingredients (4 servings)
- 400 g hake kokotxas
- 2 beaten eggs
- Wheat flour for battering
- Olive oil for frying (plenty)
- Fine salt
- Lemon for serving
Preparation
- Prepare the kokotxas: Dry them thoroughly with paper towels. If frozen, thaw them beforehand in the refrigerator and then dry them. Season them with a little salt.
- Batter: Coat each kokotxa first in flour (shake off excess) and then in beaten egg. The batter should be light — we don't want a thick layer that hides the kokotxa.
- Fry: Heat plenty of olive oil to 180°C. Fry the kokotxas in batches of 4-5 (do not overcrowd the pan) for 2-3 minutes. They should be golden brown on the outside but juicy on the inside.
- Drain and serve: Remove them to paper towels. Serve immediately with a lemon wedge. Battered kokotxas don't wait — they are eaten right away.
Tips for the perfect batter
- The oil must be exactly 180°C. Lower and the batter will be oily; higher and it will burn on the outside before cooking through on the inside.
- Do not pierce the kokotxas with a fork when flipping them — use a slotted spoon. Piercing them releases the juices and makes them dry.
- For a crispier batter, substitute part of the flour with tempura flour or cornstarch.
Recipe: Grilled kokotxas
The purest option. No batter, no sauce — just the kokotxa, heat, and good oil.
Ingredients (4 servings)
- 400 g fresh hake kokotxas
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Maldon salt (or salt flakes)
- Fresh parsley, chopped
- 1 clove garlic (optional)
Preparation
- Very hot griddle: Heat a griddle or cast-iron skillet over high heat with a drizzle of oil.
- Dry kokotxas: It is essential that they are perfectly dry. Moisture prevents them from searing.
- Brief cooking: 1-2 minutes per side, depending on size. They should be golden on the outside with the inside just barely cooked — translucent and gelatinous.
- Finish: Remove from heat. Add a few flakes of Maldon salt, a drizzle of raw olive oil, and chopped parsley. If desired, rub a cut garlic clove over the surface of the griddle to add aroma.
Grilled kokotxas are an exercise in gastronomic minimalism. The product must be excellent because there is no sauce or batter to hide anything. If the kokotxa is good, this is the method that respects it best.
Related Cod Products
Hake kokotxas vs cod: complete guide
This is the big question we get at Mercat del Ninot. The answer depends on what you're looking for:
| Criterion | Hake | Cod |
|---|---|---|
| Flavor | Subtle, sweet, elegant | Intense, salty, deep |
| Texture | Very tender, delicate | Firmer, gelatinous |
| Size | Small (15-20g/unit) | Large (25-40g/unit) |
| Gelatin | Medium | High |
| Price | 60-90 €/kg | 30-50 €/kg |
| Availability | Seasonal, fresh | Year-round |
| Best recipe | Battered, green sauce | Pil pil, green sauce |
| Pil pil difficulty | High | Medium |
Which to choose?
For pil pil: Cod. Its higher gelatin content greatly facilitates emulsification.
For green sauce: Both are excellent. Hake yields a finer result; cod, a more potent one.
For battered: Hake. Its tender texture contrasts perfectly with the crispy batter.
For grilling: Fresh hake, without a doubt. This is where its delicacy is best appreciated.
Value for money: Cod. At almost half the price, it offers an excellent result in any preparation.
Where to buy quality kokotxas
Kokotxas are not a product easily found in every supermarket. Common channels include:
- Municipal markets: The best option for fresh kokotxas. Market fishmongers usually have direct access to the fish market and can order fresh kokotxas upon request. At Mercat del Ninot in Barcelona, we have them available both fresh (by order) and in dried cod format.
- Specialized fishmongers: Basque and Cantabrian fishmongers have the best selection, as do large fishmongers in cities like Madrid, Barcelona, and Bilbao.
- Online: More and more specialized stores offer frozen kokotxas with nationwide shipping in Spain. This is a good option for those who don't have access to fresh kokotxas.
- Supermarkets: Some large supermarkets have frozen kokotxas in their fish section, but quality varies greatly. Always look for European hake, not cheaper but less flavorful South American species. For an optimal experience, buy them at a market fishmonger or a specialized store.
Kokotxas in high-end Basque cuisine
Kokotxas are a regular presence in the best restaurants in the Basque Country. Some iconic dishes:
Arzak (San Sebastián, 3 Michelin stars): Juan Mari Arzak was one of the first to elevate kokotxas to high cuisine in the 1970s. His version of pil pil with squid ink marked an era.
Martín Berasategui (Lasarte, 3 Michelin stars): Prepares kokotxas in green sauce with "teardrop" peas and a touch of truffle oil. A refined version of the classic.
Mugaritz (Errenteria, 2 Michelin stars): Andoni Luis Aduriz has experimented with kokotxas in avant-garde preparations, from vacuum cooking to deconstructed textures.
Karlos Arguiñano (Zarautz): Spain's most popular chef has popularized kokotxas on television, showing that you don't need to be a Michelin-starred chef to prepare them at home. His recipes are accessible and delicious.
What all these chefs share is absolute respect for the product. Kokotxas do not need complicated preparations — they need quality ingredients and careful technique. It is a dish that demonstrates that simplicity, well executed, is the highest form of sophistication.
Frequently asked questions
How many kokotxas do I need per person?
Estimate 100-120 g per person as an appetizer and 150-200 g as a main course. Hake kokotxas weigh between 15-20 g each, so you'll need 5-8 pieces per person as an appetizer or 8-12 as a main course.
Do kokotxas have bones?
No. Kokotxas are a boneless, cartilage-free muscle. This is one of their great advantages, especially for children or people who don't want to deal with bones when eating fish.
Can I freeze fresh kokotxas?
Yes, you can freeze them at home. Dry them well, place them on a tray without touching each other, freeze for 2 hours, and then transfer them to a freezer bag. They last 3-4 months in the freezer. To thaw, always do so in the refrigerator for 12-24 hours.
What do kokotxas taste like?
Hake kokotxas have a mild, sweet, and clean flavor, with subtle marine notes. The texture is the most distinctive: firm to the bite but melting in the palate, with a gelatinous quality that makes them unique. It's difficult to compare them to anything else — you have to try them.
Are supermarket kokotxas good?
It depends on the supermarket and the origin. Some large supermarkets have frozen kokotxas of acceptable quality. The key is to look at the origin (European hake, preferably from the Cantabrian Sea or Grand Sole) and avoid cheaper but less flavorful South American species. For an optimal experience, buy them at a market fishmonger or a specialized store.
Can kokotxas be prepared in the microwave?
Technically yes, but we do not recommend it. The microwave cooks unevenly and it's easy to overcook, leaving the kokotxas rubbery. Kokotxas need gentle, controlled heat — a clay pot, griddle, or frying pan are the appropriate methods.
Conclusion
Hake kokotxas are one of the great jewels of Spanish gastronomy. Their unique texture, delicate flavor, and versatility in cooking make them an exceptional ingredient worth discovering and mastering.
Whether you prepare them battered as a quick tapa, in a green sauce laden with parsley, or in a patient pil pil, the result is always rewarding. The key is in the product: look for fresh European hake kokotxas, of good size and with intact skin. Everything else — technique, ingredients, presentation — comes after.
And if hake kokotxas are out of budget, cod kokotxas are an extraordinary alternative that is nothing to envy. They are more accessible, easier to work with, and have an intense and comforting flavor that connects with the most authentic fishing tradition.
